Installing Gledhill Stainless Lite Direct Unvented Cylinder - I have pretty
much decided on one of these (120l) to provide hot water for a
shower/basin/kitchen sink.
http://www.ukhps.co.uk/stainless-lit...ct-5102-0.html

Is this a sensible job to attempt to d-i-y? I've done a bit of plumbing, but
not huge amounts. Also, is that a sensible choice of cylinder for the money,
etc? It doesn't have to last for ages, as the flat will be knocked down
within the next 5 years. The present plumbing is completely shot, due to
age/misuse.



Also, and I know the practical answer to this: It will be installed
(boxed-in) in a corner of the bathroom, with an electrical connection to the
immersion heater. Does it need to have a double pole safety cut-out? The
practical answer to this is of course do it and don't fuss. But if it's
actually not part of the bathroom, as it's boxed in, is that essential (to
comply with the law) ?





--
Murphy's ultimate law is that if something that could go wrong doesn't, it
turns out that it would have been better if it had gone wrong.

On Jan 18, 1:24*pm, "GB" wrote:
Installing Gledhill Stainless Lite Direct Unvented Cylinder - I have pretty
much decided on one of these (120l) to provide hot water for a
shower/basin/kitchen sink.http://www.ukhps.co.uk/stainless-lit...ct-5102-0.html

Is this a sensible job to attempt to d-i-y? I've done a bit of plumbing, but
not huge amounts. Also, is that a sensible choice of cylinder for the money,
etc? It doesn't have to last for ages, as the flat will be knocked down
within the next 5 years. The present plumbing is completely shot, due to
age/misuse.

Also, and I know the practical answer to this: It will be installed
(boxed-in) in a corner of the bathroom, with an electrical connection to the
immersion heater. Does it need to have a double pole safety cut-out? The
practical answer to this is of course do it and don't fuss. But if it's
actually not part of the bathroom, as it's boxed in, is that essential (to
comply with the law) ?

--
Murphy's ultimate law is that if something that could go wrong doesn't, *it
turns out that it would have been better if it had gone wrong.


a) Legally, you need to go through buildings control if you're
installing an unvented cylinder. You probably also fall under part P,
though I can't be bothered looking it up.

b) Are you talking about a double pole switch? I'm pretty sure that
the standards say that a means of isolation should be provided (not
counting the MCB!). Also, you are probably going to run most of the
circuit in T+E - you need to run the final section to the immersion
heater in heat-resistant cable, and the switch is the obvious place to
change between the two.

Nutkey wrote:
On Jan 18, 1:24 pm, "GB" wrote:
Installing Gledhill Stainless Lite Direct Unvented Cylinder - I have
pretty
much decided on one of these (120l) to provide hot water for a
shower/basin/kitchen
sink.http://www.ukhps.co.uk/stainless-lit...ct-5102-0.html

Is this a sensible job to attempt to d-i-y? I've done a bit of
plumbing, but
not huge amounts. Also, is that a sensible choice of cylinder for
the money,
etc? It doesn't have to last for ages, as the flat will be knocked
down
within the next 5 years. The present plumbing is completely shot,
due to
age/misuse.

Also, and I know the practical answer to this: It will be installed
(boxed-in) in a corner of the bathroom, with an electrical
connection to the
immersion heater. Does it need to have a double pole safety cut-out?
The
practical answer to this is of course do it and don't fuss. But if
it's
actually not part of the bathroom, as it's boxed in, is that
essential (to
comply with the law) ?

--
Murphy's ultimate law is that if something that could go wrong
doesn't, it
turns out that it would have been better if it had gone wrong.


a) Legally, you need to go through buildings control if you're
installing an unvented cylinder. You probably also fall under part P,
though I can't be bothered looking it up.

b) Are you talking about a double pole switch? I'm pretty sure that
the standards say that a means of isolation should be provided (not
counting the MCB!). Also, you are probably going to run most of the
circuit in T+E - you need to run the final section to the immersion
heater in heat-resistant cable, and the switch is the obvious place to
change between the two.

Thanks for those points. What I meant was an RCD. Oner of these for example:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/83049/...ex-13A-RCD-FCU




--
Murphy's ultimate law is that if something that could go wrong doesn't,
it turns out that it would have been better if it had gone wrong.

On Jan 18, 3:08*pm, "GB" wrote:
Nutkey wrote:
On Jan 18, 1:24 pm, "GB" wrote:
Installing Gledhill Stainless Lite Direct Unvented Cylinder - I have
pretty
much decided on one of these (120l) to provide hot water for a
shower/basin/kitchen
sink.http://www.ukhps.co.uk/stainless-lit...ct-5102-0.html

Is this a sensible job to attempt to d-i-y? I've done a bit of
plumbing, but
not huge amounts. Also, is that a sensible choice of cylinder for
the money,
etc? It doesn't have to last for ages, as the flat will be knocked
down
within the next 5 years. The present plumbing is completely shot,
due to
age/misuse.

Also, and I know the practical answer to this: It will be installed
(boxed-in) in a corner of the bathroom, with an electrical
connection to the
immersion heater. Does it need to have a double pole safety cut-out?
The
practical answer to this is of course do it and don't fuss. But if
it's
actually not part of the bathroom, as it's boxed in, is that
essential (to
comply with the law) ?

--
Murphy's ultimate law is that if something that could go wrong
doesn't, it
turns out that it would have been better if it had gone wrong.

a) Legally, you need to go through buildings control if you're
installing an unvented cylinder. You probably also fall under part P,
though I can't be bothered looking it up.

b) Are you talking about a double pole switch? I'm pretty sure that
the standards say that a means of isolation should be provided (not
counting the MCB!). Also, you are probably going to run most of the
circuit in T+E - you need to run the final section to the immersion
heater in heat-resistant cable, and the switch is the obvious place to
change between the two.

Thanks for those points. What I meant was an RCD. Oner of these for example:http://www.screwfix.com/prods/83049/.../RCDs/Volex-13...


Well if you're running any wiring in a wall, you will need an RCD
anyway unless (usally) it's 50mm from the surface, or protected by
earthed metal. The RCD will need to protect the wiring, not just the
immersion heater.

As for the original question - do you need a RCD if the immersion
heater is boxed in? I don't think you do, provided that there are no
controls accessible from the bathroom. Under 16th, the bit under the
bath was considered outside zones, provided you needed a tool to
access it. So it seems to me that a boxed in area wouldn't count as
part of the bathroom for the purposes of requiring RCD protection.
However, I still think you should be putting in a double pole switch
to isolate the immersion heater - and that will need to be accessible
from outside the boxing, and will therefore require an RCD.

The immersion heater will be wired on a 20A radial circuit back to the
fuse box, so you could just put an RCBO there. If the existing wiring
has it on a spur (i.e. bodged) then you could add an RCD at that
point, but it's better to have it on its own circuit.

Nutkey wrote:

Thanks for those points. What I meant was an RCD. Oner of these for
example:http://www.screwfix.com/prods/83049/.../RCDs/Volex-13...


Well if you're running any wiring in a wall, you will need an RCD
anyway unless (usally) it's 50mm from the surface, or protected by
earthed metal. The RCD will need to protect the wiring, not just the
immersion heater.

As for the original question - do you need a RCD if the immersion
heater is boxed in? I don't think you do, provided that there are no
controls accessible from the bathroom. Under 16th, the bit under the
bath was considered outside zones, provided you needed a tool to
access it. So it seems to me that a boxed in area wouldn't count as
part of the bathroom for the purposes of requiring RCD protection.
However, I still think you should be putting in a double pole switch
to isolate the immersion heater - and that will need to be accessible
from outside the boxing, and will therefore require an RCD.

The immersion heater will be wired on a 20A radial circuit back to the
fuse box, so you could just put an RCBO there. If the existing wiring
has it on a spur (i.e. bodged) then you could add an RCD at that
point, but it's better to have it on its own circuit.

The existing immersion heater is in the airing cupboard. I'm ripping out the
bath and installing a shower. That then gives me room for the cylinder in
the bathroom. So, I'm just planning to extend the wiring from the airing
cupboard (underneath the shower tray) to the new water heater. I'll do that
in heatproof cable, as it's only 3 meters, and I'll stick the RCD in place
of the current switch in the airing cupboard. Job done, I think.





--
Murphy's ultimate law is that if something that could go wrong doesn't,
it turns out that it would have been better if it had gone wrong.