Other than convention, is there any reason why a Henley Block has to
have the cables pointing downwards?

I'm looking at a meter board in a corner, and putting the block on its
side would neaten the cable runs.

On 11/11/2010 21:49, Andy Dingley wrote:

Other than convention, is there any reason why a Henley Block has to
have the cables pointing downwards?

Sideways is OK, but not upside-down, unless you can use close-fitting
grommets. The top of any enclosure providing basic protection needs to
meet IP4x. If a 1 mm dia. test pin can contact live parts (and neutral
is live for this purpose) it's a fail. Sides and bottom only need to
meet IP2x (12.5 mm test finger).

--
Andy

Andy Wade wrote:
On 11/11/2010 21:49, Andy Dingley wrote:

Other than convention, is there any reason why a Henley Block has to
have the cables pointing downwards?

Sideways is OK, but not upside-down, unless you can use close-fitting
grommets. The top of any enclosure providing basic protection needs
to meet IP4x. If a 1 mm dia. test pin can contact live parts (and
neutral is live for this purpose) it's a fail. Sides and bottom only
need to meet IP2x (12.5 mm test finger).

Also have a look at pg 7

http://www.elecsa.co.uk/downloads/Spark_March2010.pdf

--
Adam

On Nov 11, 9:49*pm, Andy Dingley wrote:
Other than convention, is there any reason why a Henley Block has to
have the cables pointing downwards?

I'm looking at a meter board in a corner, and putting the block on its
side would neaten the cable runs.

The reason for putting them entry down is to keep water and dirt out.
On their side is OK but not facing up.

In article
s.com, harry scribeth thus
On Nov 11, 9:49*pm, Andy Dingley wrote:
Other than convention, is there any reason why a Henley Block has to
have the cables pointing downwards?

I'm looking at a meter board in a corner, and putting the block on its
side would neaten the cable runs.

The reason for putting them entry down is to keep water and dirt out.
On their side is OK but not facing up.

What would be the official line if you filled it up, the openings that
is, with silicone sealant?..
--
Tony Sayer

Andy Dingley wrote:
Other than convention, is there any reason why a Henley Block has to
have the cables pointing downwards?

I'm looking at a meter board in a corner, and putting the block on its
side would neaten the cable runs.

There are different types of Henley block available. Three out of the
four types WT Henley sell have top entry:-

http://www.wt-henley.com/downloads/p...xes%202007.pdf

Lucy also do them with top entry:-

http://www.lucyswitchgear.com/produc.../house-service

Cheap from CPC:-

http://cpc.farnell.com/1/1/39819-con...-pro-elec.html

On Nov 12, 10:06*am, tony sayer wrote:
In article
s.com, harry scribeth thus

On Nov 11, 9:49 pm, Andy Dingley wrote:
Other than convention, is there any reason why a Henley Block has to
have the cables pointing downwards?

I'm looking at a meter board in a corner, and putting the block on its
side would neaten the cable runs.

The reason for putting them entry down is to keep water and dirt out.
On their side is OK but not facing up.

What would be the official line if you filled it up, the openings that
is, with silicone sealant?..
--
Tony Sayer

Dunno. There could be a fire resistance issue I suppose. The plastic
in electrical switches, sockets etc. is self extinguiishing.

On Nov 11, 10:41*pm, John Rumm wrote:

Just take care drilling entry holes to make them a snug fit for the tails..

It's the 5 way DP type. The breakouts are neatly done and snug on the
new 25mm^2 tails, but a little baggy around the old CU and its 10(?)

In a while I then have to pull the old tails and presumably block the
remaining hole. Anyone have a favoured neat way of doing this?

On Nov 12, 10:06*am, tony sayer wrote:
In article
s.com, harry scribeth thus

On Nov 11, 9:49 pm, Andy Dingley wrote:
Other than convention, is there any reason why a Henley Block has to
have the cables pointing downwards?

I'm looking at a meter board in a corner, and putting the block on its
side would neaten the cable runs.

The reason for putting them entry down is to keep water and dirt out.
On their side is OK but not facing up.

What would be the official line if you filled it up, the openings that
is, with silicone sealant?..
--
Tony Sayer

My CU has gaps at the top where I used the square cutouts. It was not
practical for cable entry on the bottom, and the main incomers had to
enter the top since the main CU switch has cable entry at the top and
the cables are too thick to bend round inside the case. There is a
fair amount of "air" around the cables.
What can I used to seal around the gaps at the top so it will pass an
inspection ?
Simon.

On Nov 12, 7:09*pm, sm_jamieson wrote:

My CU has gaps at the top where I used the square cutouts.

I've never seen a sealed CU (except maybe steel cases with glands or
conduit), nor heard of one failing inspection for 1mm gaps around the
cutouts (as opposed to having great chunks of casing hanging loose).

AIUI, the neutral bars are now placed above the cutouts, rather than
the old sort near the MCBs, so that they're inaccessible to the
standard test prod. This prod is narrow, but it's also straight and of
limited length. CU casings are now tall enough that the MCBs are out
of reach and the neutral bars would need a "hooked" probe, not a
straight one.

I'm a little puzzled by the IP4x for top / sideways penetration
though. AFAIK first digit (probes) has always been omnidirectional and
it was just second digit (water) that took direction into account.

sm_jamieson wrote:
On Nov 12, 10:06 am, tony sayer wrote:
In article

s.com, harry scribeth thus

On Nov 11, 9:49 pm, Andy Dingley wrote:
Other than convention, is there any reason why a Henley Block has
to have the cables pointing downwards?

I'm looking at a meter board in a corner, and putting the block on
its side would neaten the cable runs.

The reason for putting them entry down is to keep water and dirt
out. On their side is OK but not facing up.

What would be the official line if you filled it up, the openings
that is, with silicone sealant?..
--
Tony Sayer

My CU has gaps at the top where I used the square cutouts. It was not
practical for cable entry on the bottom, and the main incomers had to
enter the top since the main CU switch has cable entry at the top and
the cables are too thick to bend round inside the case. There is a
fair amount of "air" around the cables.
What can I used to seal around the gaps at the top so it will pass an
inspection ?
Simon.

Plain old silicone.

--
Adam

On Nov 12, 8:25*pm, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:

Plain old silicone.

I'm no fan of "plain" silicone around electrics. Now maybe it's from a
background with strain gauges on production line machines, but plain
silicone releases acetic acid on curing, which causes obvious
corrosion troubles, Henley blocks are a bit more robust than this, but
they're still screw clamps and resistance there would be a serious
risk. Low-acid silicone is avaiable, but it's not the cheap stuff from
Screwfix et al.

On Fri, 12 Nov 2010 12:55:05 +0000 Dave Osborne wrote :
There are different types of Henley block available. Three out of the
four types WT Henley sell have top entry:-

http://www.wt-henley.com/downloads/p...xes%202007.pdf

I may be missing something here, but "Type 3. Single pole model,
manufactured in glass re-inforced polyester. Accepts up to 5
conductors, either copper or aluminium. Features include wood bush
for top and bottom entry,"

Power connectors with bits of wood in them? The only reason I can
think of is that for a top entry situation it would be easier to
make a close fitting hole (qv the 1mm opening rule)

--
Tony Bryer, Greentram: 'Software to build on' Melbourne, Australia
www.superbeam.co.uk www.eurobeam.co.uk www.greentram.com

On Nov 13, 7:42*am, Tony Bryer wrote:


Power connectors with bits of wood in them?

Right sort of wood. It's not only "Nature's first composite", most of
the denser hardwoods are also intumescent.

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On Nov 13, 7:42 am, Tony Bryer wrote:


Power connectors with bits of wood in them?

Right sort of wood. It's not only "Nature's first composite", most of
the denser hardwoods are also intumescent.

Which natural wood stops smoke and doesn't smoke when heated?

On Nov 13, 1:37*pm, "dennis@home"
wrote:
"Andy Dingley" wrote in message

Right sort of wood. It's not only "Nature's first composite", most of
the denser hardwoods are also intumescent.

Which natural wood stops smoke and doesn't smoke when heated?

Oak is the classic example. Although it does smoke when continuously
heated, in this context it will also char and form a barrier layer.