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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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shelving: spacing of rails?
Hi,
So I am about to fit my shelving, the type with rails, as recommended on this group: http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/pr...e-upright.html I wonder is there a rule for how far apart the rails should be? I was thinking on a stud wall it has to be where the studs are, so would it be every 60cm? If the stud spacing was 40cm would you fit one every 40cm or would that be too close; would you skip a stud and fit every 80cm? But as you may remember, I'm not fitting to a stud wall, so is there a rule for solid walls? Or is there no rule of thumb; does it depend on the load on the shelves? Do you fit more rails, more closely for heavy loads? TIA |
#2
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shelving: spacing of rails?
Fred wrote:
Hi, So I am about to fit my shelving, the type with rails, as recommended on this group: http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/pr...e-upright.html I wonder is there a rule for how far apart the rails should be? I was thinking on a stud wall it has to be where the studs are, so would it be every 60cm? If the stud spacing was 40cm would you fit one every 40cm or would that be too close; would you skip a stud and fit every 80cm? But as you may remember, I'm not fitting to a stud wall, so is there a rule for solid walls? Or is there no rule of thumb; does it depend on the load on the shelves? Do you fit more rails, more closely for heavy loads? If yiour subsrate s sioud, and yiou make a fiar job, the limiting facti will noit be teh uprights pulling ou of the walls, it will be the bowing of the shelves. I put up some of this sort of thing in an alcove once, to take my weighty LPs in the days when LPs were what one had. The shelves (12mm melamine/chip) bowed alarmingly over half a meter span. The brackets looked a bit sorry too, but the uprights never budged. TIA |
#3
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shelving: spacing of rails?
In message , Fred
writes But as you may remember, I'm not fitting to a stud wall, so is there a rule for solid walls? Or is there no rule of thumb; does it depend on the load on the shelves? Do you fit more rails, more closely for heavy loads? What you need is the Sagulator, which calculates such things : http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm -- Graeme |
#4
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shelving: spacing of rails?
On Sep 26, 10:24*am, Fred wrote:
Hi, So I am about to fit my shelving, the type with rails, as recommended on this group:http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/pr...onmongery/shel... I wonder is there a rule for how far apart the rails should be? I was thinking on a stud wall it has to be where the studs are, so would it be every 60cm? If the stud spacing was 40cm would you fit one every 40cm or would that be too close; would you skip a stud and fit every 80cm? But as you may remember, I'm not fitting to a stud wall, so is there a rule for solid walls? Or is there no rule of thumb; does it depend on the load on the shelves? Do you fit more rails, more closely for heavy loads? TIA You dont say what load youre looking at, nor what type and thickness of shelf. Once you've figured those out, check out the sagulator. I'm not a big fan of those slotted strips myself, they dont handle the sort of loads I'd expect them to very well, like shelves packed with books. So I'd be inclined to put them on the close side, like 2' apart or maybe 18" for big books. NT |
#5
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shelving: spacing of rails?
Tabby wrote:
On Sep 26, 10:24 am, Fred wrote: Hi, So I am about to fit my shelving, the type with rails, as recommended on this group:http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/pr...onmongery/shel... I wonder is there a rule for how far apart the rails should be? I was thinking on a stud wall it has to be where the studs are, so would it be every 60cm? If the stud spacing was 40cm would you fit one every 40cm or would that be too close; would you skip a stud and fit every 80cm? But as you may remember, I'm not fitting to a stud wall, so is there a rule for solid walls? Or is there no rule of thumb; does it depend on the load on the shelves? Do you fit more rails, more closely for heavy loads? TIA You dont say what load youre looking at, nor what type and thickness of shelf. Once you've figured those out, check out the sagulator. I'm not a big fan of those slotted strips myself, they dont handle the sort of loads I'd expect them to very well, like shelves packed with books. So I'd be inclined to put them on the close side, like 2' apart or maybe 18" for big books. Oh contraire Rodney. I am a big fan of them :-) You can get more fixings in the wall, in line, using slotted strips and they spread the load. -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
#6
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shelving: spacing of rails?
Three uprights per 4ft shelf - 6" from each end and one in the middle.
JGH |
#7
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shelving: spacing of rails?
On Sep 26, 12:09*pm, "The Medway Handyman" davidl...@no-spam-
blueyonder.co.uk wrote: Tabby wrote: On Sep 26, 10:24 am, Fred wrote: Hi, So I am about to fit my shelving, the type with rails, as recommended on this group:http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/pr...onmongery/shel... I wonder is there a rule for how far apart the rails should be? I was thinking on a stud wall it has to be where the studs are, so would it be every 60cm? If the stud spacing was 40cm would you fit one every 40cm or would that be too close; would you skip a stud and fit every 80cm? But as you may remember, I'm not fitting to a stud wall, so is there a rule for solid walls? Or is there no rule of thumb; does it depend on the load on the shelves? Do you fit more rails, more closely for heavy loads? TIA You dont say what load youre looking at, nor what type and thickness of shelf. Once you've figured those out, check out the sagulator. I'm not a big fan of those slotted strips myself, they dont handle the sort of loads I'd expect them to very well, like shelves packed with books. So I'd be inclined to put them on the close side, like 2' apart or maybe 18" for big books. Oh contraire Rodney. *I am a big fan of them :-) You can get more fixings in the wall, in line, using slotted strips and they spread the load. Yes, the weakpoint is the little tabs that hold the horizontal brackets in. NT |
#8
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shelving: spacing of rails?
Tabby wrote:
On Sep 26, 12:09 pm, "The Medway Handyman" davidl...@no-spam- blueyonder.co.uk wrote: Tabby wrote: On Sep 26, 10:24 am, Fred wrote: Hi, So I am about to fit my shelving, the type with rails, as recommended on this group:http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/pr...onmongery/shel... I wonder is there a rule for how far apart the rails should be? I was thinking on a stud wall it has to be where the studs are, so would it be every 60cm? If the stud spacing was 40cm would you fit one every 40cm or would that be too close; would you skip a stud and fit every 80cm? But as you may remember, I'm not fitting to a stud wall, so is there a rule for solid walls? Or is there no rule of thumb; does it depend on the load on the shelves? Do you fit more rails, more closely for heavy loads? TIA You dont say what load youre looking at, nor what type and thickness of shelf. Once you've figured those out, check out the sagulator. I'm not a big fan of those slotted strips myself, they dont handle the sort of loads I'd expect them to very well, like shelves packed with books. So I'd be inclined to put them on the close side, like 2' apart or maybe 18" for big books. Oh contraire Rodney. I am a big fan of them :-) You can get more fixings in the wall, in line, using slotted strips and they spread the load. Yes, the weakpoint is the little tabs that hold the horizontal brackets in. I was thinking of the double slot type. I agree, the single slot is rubbish. -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
#9
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shelving: spacing of rails?
On 26/09/2010 10:30, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Fred wrote: So I am about to fit my shelving, the type with rails, as recommended on this group: http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/pr...e-upright.html I wonder is there a rule for how far apart the rails should be? I was thinking on a stud wall it has to be where the studs are, so would it be every 60cm? If the stud spacing was 40cm would you fit one every 40cm or would that be too close; would you skip a stud and fit every 80cm? But as you may remember, I'm not fitting to a stud wall, so is there a rule for solid walls? Or is there no rule of thumb; does it depend on the load on the shelves? Do you fit more rails, more closely for heavy loads? If yiour subsrate s sioud, and yiou make a fiar job, the limiting facti will noit be teh uprights Fair point, but on the other hand, pqwoorec qksb ienvp poirnviq iewb lirstv irvrjmw, ecvaoc. YMMV David |
#10
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shelving: spacing of rails?
"Fred" wrote in message ... Hi, So I am about to fit my shelving, the type with rails, as recommended on this group: http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/pr...e-upright.html I wonder is there a rule for how far apart the rails should be? I was thinking on a stud wall it has to be where the studs are, so would it be every 60cm? If the stud spacing was 40cm would you fit one every 40cm or would that be too close; would you skip a stud and fit every 80cm? But as you may remember, I'm not fitting to a stud wall, so is there a rule for solid walls? Or is there no rule of thumb; does it depend on the load on the shelves? Do you fit more rails, more closely for heavy loads? TIA If the ends of the shelves are free, and there are two rails, I put the brackets a quarter of the board length from the ends so they take equal shares of the weight. Your actual spacing depends on how thick your boards are; how flexible; how heavy the stuff you are putting on them, etc. S |
#11
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shelving: spacing of rails?
"Fred" wrote in message ... Hi, So I am about to fit my shelving, the type with rails, as recommended on this group: http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/pr...e-upright.html I wonder is there a rule for how far apart the rails should be? I was thinking on a stud wall it has to be where the studs are, so would it be every 60cm? If the stud spacing was 40cm would you fit one every 40cm or would that be too close; would you skip a stud and fit every 80cm? But as you may remember, I'm not fitting to a stud wall, so is there a rule for solid walls? Or is there no rule of thumb; does it depend on the load on the shelves? Do you fit more rails, more closely for heavy loads? TIA If the ends of the shelves are free, and there are two rails, I put the brackets a quarter of the board length from the ends so they take equal shares of the weight. Your actual spacing depends on how thick your boards are; how flexible; how heavy the stuff you are putting on them, etc. S |
#12
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shelving: spacing of rails?
On Sun, 26 Sep 2010 07:14:34 -0700 (PDT), jgharston
wrote: Three uprights per 4ft shelf - 6" from each end and one in the middle. So 18" apart or 45cm. Thanks. |
#13
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shelving: spacing of rails?
On Sun, 26 Sep 2010 17:11:17 +0100, John Rumm
wrote: If you forget 12mm thick shelving for anything other than lightweight stuff (unless braced with front and rear rails). 12mm of what? Would plywood be any better than chi[pbopard or MDF? 19mm chipboard is probably a realistic minimum for a decent shelf. MDF is ok, but tends to sag a bit more. I have some melamine faced chipboard from the shelves that were already there but can't remember what thickness they are. I will need to buy more shelves though, so I am open to suggestions about the best type of wood to use. I suppose the melamine faced products save the time and trouble of painting them but I suppose that comes at a price? They are for my garage so do not have to be particularly pretty but I think bare mdf or chipboard would benefit from a coat of something so that they don't get ruined if I spill something! Thanks. |
#14
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shelving: spacing of rails?
On Sun, 26 Sep 2010 10:30:49 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote: I put up some of this sort of thing in an alcove once, to take my weighty LPs in the days when LPs were what one had. The shelves (12mm melamine/chip) bowed alarmingly over half a meter span. Sorry, I should have said: these are to go in my garage. I think the LP example is a good one: one LP doesn't weigh very much but when you have a collection they weigh a tonne. Individually I don't think any of my tools is that heavy but together, I am sure they will present a decent weight. |
#15
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shelving: spacing of rails?
On Sun, 26 Sep 2010 03:23:29 -0700 (PDT), Tabby
wrote: You dont say what load youre looking at, nor what type and thickness of shelf. Once you've figured those out, check out the sagulator. So it seems that any rules of thumb are more to do with preventing bowing rather than the rails falling off the wall. I will download the sagulator. Thanks. |
#16
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shelving: spacing of rails?
On Sun, 26 Sep 2010 17:53:07 +0100, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote: I was thinking of the double slot type. I agree, the single slot is rubbish. I was thinking of using the double slotted type with brackets that protrude the depth of the shelf, like these: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hard.../sd2230/p22199 Not quite sure what the other ones are that people are talking about: are they the ones where each corner of the shelf is held on by a tiny "tab" of metal? No, they don't sound very secure to me either. Thanks. |
#17
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shelving: spacing of rails?
Fred wrote:
On Sun, 26 Sep 2010 17:11:17 +0100, John Rumm wrote: If you forget 12mm thick shelving for anything other than lightweight stuff (unless braced with front and rear rails). 12mm of what? Would plywood be any better than chi[pbopard or MDF? Oddly chip is probably beter than anything, or MDF. 19mm chipboard is probably a realistic minimum for a decent shelf. MDF is ok, but tends to sag a bit more. I have some melamine faced chipboard from the shelves that were already there but can't remember what thickness they are. I will need to buy more shelves though, so I am open to suggestions about the best type of wood to use. I suppose the melamine faced products save the time and trouble of painting them but I suppose that comes at a price? They are for my garage so do not have to be particularly pretty but I think bare mdf or chipboard would benefit from a coat of something so that they don't get ruined if I spill something! Bare chip and to heck with the spills. As long as they are not water. Thanks. |
#18
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shelving: spacing of rails?
Fred wrote:
On Sun, 26 Sep 2010 10:30:49 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote: I put up some of this sort of thing in an alcove once, to take my weighty LPs in the days when LPs were what one had. The shelves (12mm melamine/chip) bowed alarmingly over half a meter span. Sorry, I should have said: these are to go in my garage. I think the LP example is a good one: one LP doesn't weigh very much but when you have a collection they weigh a tonne. Individually I don't think any of my tools is that heavy but together, I am sure they will present a decent weight. 19mm chip mealamine or not as cost allows. Or 19mm block. 15mm is acceptable: 12mm is not. |
#19
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shelving: spacing of rails?
Fred wrote:
On Sun, 26 Sep 2010 03:23:29 -0700 (PDT), Tabby wrote: You dont say what load youre looking at, nor what type and thickness of shelf. Once you've figured those out, check out the sagulator. So it seems that any rules of thumb are more to do with preventing bowing rather than the rails falling off the wall. Correct. brackets will stand standing on (just) though not without bending. Single screw in masonry will take all your weight. I will download the sagulator. :-) Thanks. |
#20
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shelving: spacing of rails?
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Fred saying something like: 12mm of what? Would plywood be any better than chi[pbopard or MDF? My most recent heavy-duty shelving was made of ripped lengthways 19mm shuttering ply. Looks absolutely fine in a workshop. |
#21
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shelving: spacing of rails?
On Mon, 27 Sep 2010 12:01:31 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote: Oddly chip is probably beter than anything Really, why is that? I haven't had a play with all the variables in the sagulator; does chip flex the least or is there another advantage I haven't thought of? The sagulator gives a deflection of so many inches per foot but what figure should I be aiming for? Is this tool just for shelves or is this the application I have heard people talking about on here for joists and floorboards etc? Thanks. |
#22
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shelving: spacing of rails?
On Mon, 27 Sep 2010 12:02:29 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote: Or 19mm block. Sorry to be so thick. By block do you mean blockboard? Thanks. |
#23
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shelving: spacing of rails?
On Mon, 27 Sep 2010 12:03:53 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote: Single screw in masonry will take all your weight. Crickey. I hadn't realised a little screw could be so strong. So only one is needed to hold the weight and the rest are just over engineering? Thanks. |
#24
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shelving: spacing of rails?
On 27/09/2010 23:01, John Rumm wrote:
Chip does not flex too much, and is cheap. In fact, flooring grade chip would probably make nice cheap workshop shelves since its usually sold in 8x2' sizes, and is 19mm or 22mm thick. Usually under £7/sheet. Chip tends to sag if left under load for along time. Arrange it so you can turn the shelves over! Andy |
#25
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shelving: spacing of rails?
Fred wrote:
On Mon, 27 Sep 2010 12:02:29 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote: Or 19mm block. Sorry to be so thick. By block do you mean blockboard? I did. Sorry. Thanks. |
#26
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shelving: spacing of rails?
Fred wrote:
On Mon, 27 Sep 2010 12:03:53 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote: Single screw in masonry will take all your weight. Crickey. I hadn't realised a little screw could be so strong. So only one is needed to hold the weight and the rest are just over engineering? Thanks. Well that's as long as it is firmly into a good wall. Never climbed using pitons? One 1/4" shaft hammered onto a crevice. people trust their lives to them. http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/r.../Non-Piton.jpg |
#27
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shelving: spacing of rails?
John Rumm wrote:
On 27/09/2010 18:48, Fred wrote: On Mon, 27 Sep 2010 12:03:53 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote: Single screw in masonry will take all your weight. Crickey. I hadn't realised a little screw could be so strong. So only one is needed to hold the weight and the rest are just over engineering? Thanks. It depends on how you load the screw. Its strongest in shear - i.e. a lateral force applied tight against the wall. Its fairly strong but not as good in bending, and its weakest in traction (i.e. the screw itself is very string, but it can be pulled out of the wall - where the type of masonry and plug fit etc will play a big part in how easily). So a shelving upright with a bracket protruding will place most of the load on the screws in shear, and some on the screws above the bracket point in traction, and also the upright under a bending moment - with the lower section being restrained by the wall. The longer the upright, the more leverage it has to control the forces - longer uprights will take bigger loads the short ones. Not totally accurate, but near enough. The SCREW is strongest in tension actually. But the connection to the wall is not.;-) |
#28
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shelving: spacing of rails?
In message , John
Rumm writes On 26/09/2010 10:24, Fred wrote: Hi, So I am about to fit my shelving, the type with rails, as recommended on this group: http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/pr...mongery/shelvi ng/silverline-double-slot-shelving-system-1-6-metre-upright.html You need to consider the total load, its distribution, the shelf material, depth, and thickness. If you forget 12mm thick shelving for anything other than lightweight stuff (unless braced with front and rear rails). 19mm chipboard is probably a realistic minimum for a decent shelf. MDF is ok, but tends to sag a bit more. Worst case would be heavy loads like reference books on say a 10" deep shelf. You would probably need to go at 400mm centres to eliminate sag there. If the shelves are deeper, you can go to wider spacing. Same for thicker. For my workshop I used 19mm MDF, and made the shelves 500mm deep, about 1.2m long with a return section 400mm wide against the far wall (they are L shaped shelves that sit in a corner and wrap round it). I got two shelves out of each sheet of 8x4' MDF. I used two uprights on the long side and one on the short side, with deep brackets. The main shelf seems pretty sturdy, while the return gets a bit of sag at the extreme end - so perhaps a pair of uprights on that side would have been preferable. I know it depends on the material, but for a decent thickness shelf I reckon about a 60cm or so spacing for shelves that are expected to take a reasonable, but not extremely heavy load is what I go for. I've just checked the shelves in the pantry. I put up a 19mm MDF shelf (probably about 18 inches deep) supported on London brackets at about 68cm centres. It has a pretty heavy load stacks of tins, jars, bulk bags or rice etc. No sagging so far. This is probably about what you shelves above are at by the sound of it. The shelves on our Ikea Billy bookcases are about 76cm long and seem to be holding up well. -- Chris French |
#29
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shelving: spacing of rails?
On Tue, 28 Sep 2010 00:04:04 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote: Sorry to be so thick. By block do you mean blockboard? I did. Blockboard sounds like it might be a good, strong choice. Would it be better than the alternatives? When I was young and naive, I used to buy the contiboard "strips" but I think these now cost about £8 for 8' x 9" so it is probably an expensive way of doing things. I think it would be cheaper to buy one big board and rip it into shelves. Or since the boards are so bulky to move, get the timber merchant to cut them for me. If I ripped a melamine faced sheet that would leave bare edges but if I really wanted a pretty edge, I suppose I could buy the iron-on edging strips. Appearance might not matter in the garage but would if the shelves were elsewhere. The melamine face does make the shelf prettier but IIRC there is still a warning on the label that it doesn't like water. Thanks. |
#30
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shelving: spacing of rails?
John Rumm wrote:
The furniture board is coated with a real wood veneer rather than a melamine type coating, and it will take varnish and stain like real wood. The only thing you can't do it route the edges! Rout, John, rout. Routres "Route", Routers "Rout"..;-) |
#31
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shelving: spacing of rails?
John Rumm wrote:
On 29/09/2010 11:48, The Natural Philosopher wrote: John Rumm wrote: The furniture board is coated with a real wood veneer rather than a melamine type coating, and it will take varnish and stain like real wood. The only thing you can't do it route the edges! Rout, John, rout. Routres "Route", Routers "Rout"..;-) ^^^^^^^ Or routers even, and I have never taken a router into battle, so can't comment on the second ;-) rout 2 (rout) v. rout·ed, rout·ing, routs v.intr. 1. To dig with the snout; root. 2. To poke around; rummage. v.tr. 1. To expose to view as if by digging; uncover. *2. To hollow, scoop, or gouge out.* 3. To drive or force out as if by digging; eject: rout out an informant. 4. Archaic To dig up with the snout. that's where the woodworking term comes from. Not from route! It is in fact from root, as in dig up by the roots etc etc. |
#32
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shelving: spacing of rails?
"Spamlet" wrote in message ... "Fred" wrote in message ... Hi, So I am about to fit my shelving, the type with rails, as recommended on this group: http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/pr...e-upright.html I wonder is there a rule for how far apart the rails should be? I was thinking on a stud wall it has to be where the studs are, so would it be every 60cm? If the stud spacing was 40cm would you fit one every 40cm or would that be too close; would you skip a stud and fit every 80cm? But as you may remember, I'm not fitting to a stud wall, so is there a rule for solid walls? Or is there no rule of thumb; does it depend on the load on the shelves? Do you fit more rails, more closely for heavy loads? TIA If the ends of the shelves are free, and there are two rails, I put the brackets a quarter of the board length from the ends so they take equal shares of the weight. Your actual spacing depends on how thick your boards are; how flexible; how heavy the stuff you are putting on them, etc. S (Sorry for the double posts: some glitch between send and server.) Surprised at all the talk of chipboard types, and no talk of proper wood, which, with a decent grain, is less sag prone and looks better too. You don't see many chipboard scaffolding planks do you? S |
#33
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shelving: spacing of rails?
On Wed, 29 Sep 2010 00:16:33 +0100, John Rumm
wrote: The furniture board is coated with a real wood veneer rather than a melamine type coating, and it will take varnish and stain like real wood. The only thing you can't do it route the edges! Thanks I never knew that. I thought it was a generic name for contiboard. I hadn't realised the two were different. Not see blockboard about for ages! (if by that you mean a couple of laminations of ply with wood strips/block sandwiched between). My local timber merchant does sell it (which is strange because he only sells pine, pine, and pine). Spamlet posted about using real wood along the grain. I wonder whether strips of wood in blockboard would have the same effect? |
#34
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shelving: spacing of rails?
On Sun, 26 Sep 2010 17:11:17 +0100, John Rumm
wrote: http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/pr...e-upright.html Just a quick post to say these have arrived. The packaging was a bit minimal: brackets loose in a city link bag but they seem to have arrived safely none the less. I had feared they would have been scratched and dented in transit. the rails were wrapped in bubble wrap but the ends had poked through so one or two were a bit scuffed on the end. One slight criticism of the product is that on the more expensive rails available elsewhere (e.g. B&Q) the screw hole is countersunk so that you can fit the screw flush with the rail. On these silver line rails the screw stands proud of the rail so it means you cannot put a bracket directly over the screw. OTOH the B&Q rails are three times the price so it is probably worth the inconvenience. Or has anyone here found a clever way around this; perhaps I am doing something wrong? It wouldn't be the first time TIA |
#35
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shelving: spacing of rails?
On 28 Sep, 10:33, Fred wrote:
On Tue, 28 Sep 2010 00:04:04 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote: Sorry to be so thick. By block do you mean blockboard? I did. Blockboard sounds like it might be a good, strong choice. Would it be better than the alternatives? When I was young and naive, I used to buy the contiboard "strips" but I think these now cost about £8 for 8' x *9" so it is probably an expensive way of doing things. I think it would be cheaper to buy one big board and rip it into shelves. Or since the boards are so bulky to move, get the timber merchant to cut them for me. If I ripped a melamine faced sheet that would leave bare edges but if I really wanted a pretty edge, I suppose I could buy the iron-on edging strips. Appearance might not matter in the garage but would if the shelves were elsewhere. The melamine face does make the shelf prettier but IIRC there is still a warning on the label that it doesn't like water. You want something like an inch thickness of an unsupported board for every 3 feet span. Get around the cost of rails by adding strengtheners to the front and back of the board. (Glue and nail 2 x 1 along the front and back edge, for example.) The number of rails needed to spread the load on the wall is another point altogether. A "patress" might be used. In plasterboard walls the contructor will be told to add ply between the studwork for hanging radiators and etc. You can strengthen a wall with the same idea. Most prefab garages are built to a cheapo speck and are likely to require reinforcing for a lot of heavy weigth. It all depends what you want to put on it and how much you don't want to support the outer edges of the shelves with props. |
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shelving: spacing of rails?
On Mon, 04 Oct 2010 10:54:19 +0100, Fred wrote:
One slight criticism of the product is that on the more expensive rails available elsewhere (e.g. B&Q) the screw hole is countersunk so that you can fit the screw flush with the rail. On these silver line rails the screw stands proud of the rail so it means you cannot put a bracket directly over the screw. OTOH the B&Q rails are three times the price so it is probably worth the inconvenience. Or has anyone here found a clever way around this; perhaps I am doing something wrong? It wouldn't be the first time Use a countersinking drill? -- Geo |
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