I have had a genius idea...

I mentioned I wanted some ceiling-wash tube lighting for the daughter's
bedroom... After considering cornice (trough) lighting, I have come up with
a better idea:

2 foot twin T8 fitting, HF ballast, fairly cheap, mounted in two key places
on ceiling. Hanging by fine chain/wire from ceiling about 15-20cm down, and
parallel-plane to ceiling is a flat sheet of white transluscent acrylic (or
similar), about 1m x 0.6m, say 5mm thick so it will hang by 4-6 wires/chains
at the corners. Has to be easy to unhook and clean because it will become a
little bug(ger) trap.

This will act as a part diffuser and part reflector allowing some light
through and a lot of sideways wash onto the white ceiling.

This is *secondary* lighting for use in dark days, winter etc - not for
getting up to, she will have a regular dimmable lamp for that. T8 (or even
T5( tubes give me inexpensive fittings and a massive choice of tube colour-
temps with decent efficiency.

So all I need to complete my plan is a way or machining place to get nicely
shaped plastic sheet. Simulations with sheets of white paper held under a
tube suggest this will be a good method.


Fancy case could be long ovoid. Simpler would be a rectangle with strongly
radiused corners.


So I could either jigsaw it, then sand and somehow polish the edges. Not
sure how to do that - but it needs to look totally pro and not like it's
been hacked out by a jigsaw!


Or find some prototyping type place that can laser/water/CNC [1] cut the
stuff in small runs. [1] Whatever leaves a clean edge.

Any ideas?

If this works, I am tempted to deploy in the two hallways too.

Ta

Tim


--
Tim Watts

In message , Tim Watts
writes
I have had a genius idea...

I mentioned I wanted some ceiling-wash tube lighting for the daughter's
bedroom... After considering cornice (trough) lighting, I have come up with
a better idea:

2 foot twin T8 fitting, HF ballast, fairly cheap, mounted in two key places
on ceiling. Hanging by fine chain/wire from ceiling about 15-20cm down, and
parallel-plane to ceiling is a flat sheet of white transluscent acrylic (or
similar), about 1m x 0.6m, say 5mm thick so it will hang by 4-6 wires/chains
at the corners. Has to be easy to unhook and clean because it will become a
little bug(ger) trap.

This will act as a part diffuser and part reflector allowing some light
through and a lot of sideways wash onto the white ceiling.

This is *secondary* lighting for use in dark days, winter etc - not for
getting up to, she will have a regular dimmable lamp for that. T8 (or even
T5( tubes give me inexpensive fittings and a massive choice of tube colour-
temps with decent efficiency.

So all I need to complete my plan is a way or machining place to get nicely
shaped plastic sheet. Simulations with sheets of white paper held under a
tube suggest this will be a good method.


Fancy case could be long ovoid. Simpler would be a rectangle with strongly
radiused corners.


So I could either jigsaw it, then sand and somehow polish the edges. Not
sure how to do that - but it needs to look totally pro and not like it's
been hacked out by a jigsaw!


Or find some prototyping type place that can laser/water/CNC [1] cut the
stuff in small runs. [1] Whatever leaves a clean edge.

Any ideas?

Here's a clue ...

You are an ex member of UKRM, aren't you


--
geoff

On Sep 4, 7:20*pm, Tim Watts wrote:
I have had a genius idea...

I mentioned I wanted some ceiling-wash tube lighting for the daughter's
bedroom... After considering cornice (trough) lighting, I have come up with
a better idea:

2 foot twin T8 fitting, HF ballast, fairly cheap, mounted in two key places
on ceiling. Hanging by fine chain/wire from ceiling about 15-20cm down, and

too close, unless you run it heavily dimmed.


parallel-plane to ceiling is a flat sheet of white transluscent acrylic (or
similar), about 1m x 0.6m, say 5mm thick so it will hang by 4-6 wires/chains
at the corners. Has to be easy to unhook and clean because it will become a
little bug(ger) trap.

that size flat will leave the tubes visible at the ends and maybe
sides


This will act as a part diffuser and part reflector allowing some light
through and a lot of sideways wash onto the white ceiling.


This is *secondary* lighting for use in dark days, winter etc - not for
getting up to, she will have a regular dimmable lamp for that. T8 (or even
T5( tubes give me inexpensive fittings and a massive choice of tube colour-
temps with decent efficiency.

So all I need to complete my plan is a way or machining place to get nicely
shaped plastic sheet. Simulations with sheets of white paper held under a
tube suggest this will be a good method.

Fancy case could be long ovoid. Simpler would be a rectangle with strongly
radiused corners.

So I could either jigsaw it, then sand and somehow polish the edges. Not
sure how to do that - but it needs to look totally pro and not like it's
been hacked out by a jigsaw!

Or find some prototyping type place that can laser/water/CNC [1] cut the
stuff in small runs. [1] Whatever leaves a clean edge.

Any ideas?

If this works, I am tempted to deploy in the two hallways too.

Ta

Tim

A jigsaw will crack it 20 times before youre done. Acrylic is terrible
for cracking, either melt cut it or buy spare and score & snap.

Sand the edges, you can pretrim them by clamping between 2 wood sticks
& melting them down with a small grind stone in a die grinder.

A flat square's going to be a bit boring. How about a splat shape. Cut
it in sheet wood, attach acrylic to it and use the die grinder grind
stone to melt cut it to shape. Then also add low powered coloured LEDs
to the acrylic for night time use. Use RGB LEDs and add a simple
colour control.


NT

On 4 Sep, 19:50, Tabby wrote:

A jigsaw will crack it 20 times before youre done. Acrylic is terrible
for cracking, either melt cut it or buy spare and score & snap.

I've just spent an hour or so cutting up clear polystyrene sheet.
Acrylic is an absolute amateur when it comes to cracking or melt-
sticking, compared to polystyrene! Still, the Bosch dealt with it. It
was a little awkward sawing the tight curves, as my narrow tight-curve
blade does have tiny teeth and those are rather bad for sticking.

"Tabby" wrote in message news:3cee6aea-2543-473b-9438-

A jigsaw will crack it 20 times before youre done. Acrylic is terrible
for cracking, either melt cut it or buy spare and score & snap.




a good quality machinable plastic is easily cut with jig saw, and then
filed/sanded.

I recently did a job using Makrolon, machined well.

On 4 Sep, 19:20, Tim Watts wrote:

So I could either jigsaw it, then sand and somehow polish the edges.

Jigsaw, dead easy.

The trick is to have a _good_ jigsaw, which only vibrates the bit it's
meant to. (Bosch 135, the good Makita). Also practice, good, sharp
blade, good support underneath and the smallest amount of pendulum
action you can (helps avoid melt-sticking). Then it's easy.

If you clamp a guide batten down first, and you've a low-vibration
jigsaw, you'll get straight edges. If you're really concerned, lay it
on a sheet of disposable MDF and saw both together (this is good for
bits too small to hold too).

Wet & dry will give you a decent edge, Micro-mesh will give you
transparency (ten quid sample pack from Axminster or Tilgear).

Flame / radiant heat polishing is quicker, but practice on scrap
first. Personally I use an electric fire element for this, but not a
flame - too easy to scorch it.

In message
,
Andy Dingley writes
Jigsaw, dead easy.
Our boat windows were originally made by me out of Oroglas, whatever
that is. When renewing the sex bolts that held them on the outside of
the hull, we cracked two.
I took one of the sheets of slightly darkened perspex that came off some
old printer silencing cabinets that were being thrown out, and jigsawed
and sanded. I juggled with blades to get a compromise between melt and
cut.
Worked fine.
--
Bill

Bill wrote:
In message
,
Andy Dingley writes
Jigsaw, dead easy.
Our boat windows were originally made by me out of Oroglas, whatever
that is. When renewing the sex bolts

Sex bolts? Tell us more :-)



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 4 Sep, 21:39, "The Medway Handyman" davidl...@no-spam-
blueyonder.co.uk wrote:
Bill wrote:
In message
,
Andy Dingley writes
Jigsaw, dead easy.
Our boat windows were originally made by me out of Oroglas, whatever
that is. When renewing the sex bolts

Sex bolts? Tell us more :-)

shhurely you remember Terry Scott as Carry On as tarzan? "12345 sex"

Jim K

In message
, Jim
K writes
On 4 Sep, 21:39, "The Medway Handyman" davidl...@no-spam-
blueyonder.co.uk wrote:
Bill wrote:
In message
,
Andy Dingley writes
Jigsaw, dead easy.
Our boat windows were originally made by me out of Oroglas, whatever
that is. When renewing the sex bolts

Sex bolts? Tell us more :-)

shhurely you remember Terry Scott as Carry On as tarzan? "12345 sex"

Http://www.boltdepot.com/sex-bolts-a...ng-screws.aspx

or Wikipedia has a description but no picture.

I think it was here I asked what these things were called!

They are brilliant for certain specific uses, but every supplier seems
to call them something different, and this was the one name I could
remember.
--
Bill

On Sat, 4 Sep 2010 21:04:58 +0100, Bill wrote:

In message
,
Andy Dingley writes
Jigsaw, dead easy.
Our boat windows were originally made by me out of Oroglas, whatever
that is.

Just acrylic, much the same as Perspex.

Oroglas came to 'fame' in 1973 being blamed for the cause of a major
fire in the Isle of Man.

--
Frank Erskine

On 4 Sep,
Bill wrote:

Our boat windows were originally made by me out of Oroglas, whatever
that is.

Acrylic sheet, same as Perspex (ICI) but a different proprietry name for the
same product from a different firm (Rohm & Hass?). Made infamous after a fire
in the IOM (summerland?) where it was used well outside the conditions in
mainland building regs and the recommendations of the manufacturer.

When renewing the sex bolts that held them on the outside of the hull, we
cracked two. I took one of the sheets of slightly darkened perspex that
came off some old printer silencing cabinets that were being thrown out,
and jigsawed and sanded. I juggled with blades to get a compromise between
melt and cut.


--
B Thumbs
Change lycos to yahoo to reply

"Bill" wrote in message
...
In message
, Andy
Dingley writes
Jigsaw, dead easy.
Our boat windows were originally made by me out of Oroglas, whatever that
is. When renewing the sex bolts that held them on the outside of the hull,
we cracked two.
I took one of the sheets of slightly darkened perspex that came off some
old printer silencing cabinets that were being thrown out, and jigsawed
and sanded. I juggled with blades to get a compromise between melt and
cut.
Worked fine.
--
Bill


are Sex bolts the same as a Prince Albert ?

On Sun, 5 Sep 2010 12:09:44 +0100, Rick Hughes wrote:

"Bill" wrote in message
...
In message
, Andy
Dingley writes
Jigsaw, dead easy.
Our boat windows were originally made by me out of Oroglas, whatever that
is. When renewing the sex bolts that held them on the outside of the hull,
we cracked two.
I took one of the sheets of slightly darkened perspex that came off some
old printer silencing cabinets that were being thrown out, and jigsawed
and sanded. I juggled with blades to get a compromise between melt and
cut.
Worked fine.
--
Bill

are Sex bolts the same as a Prince Albert ?

No - no strings attached.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On 4 Sep, 19:20, Tim Watts wrote:

So I could either jigsaw it, then sand and somehow polish the edges.

Jigsaw, dead easy.

The trick is to have a _good_ jigsaw, which only vibrates the bit it's
meant to. (Bosch 135, the good Makita). Also practice, good, sharp
blade, good support underneath and the smallest amount of pendulum
action you can (helps avoid melt-sticking). Then it's easy.

I would think
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/20397/...6mm-Scroll-Saw
would work better if the work fits.

"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
I have had a genius idea...

I mentioned I wanted some ceiling-wash tube lighting for the daughter's
bedroom... After considering cornice (trough) lighting, I have come up
with
a better idea:

2 foot twin T8 fitting, HF ballast, fairly cheap, mounted in two key
places
on ceiling. Hanging by fine chain/wire from ceiling about 15-20cm down,
and
parallel-plane to ceiling is a flat sheet of white transluscent acrylic
(or
similar), about 1m x 0.6m, say 5mm thick so it will hang by 4-6
wires/chains
at the corners. Has to be easy to unhook and clean because it will become
a
little bug(ger) trap.

This will act as a part diffuser and part reflector allowing some light
through and a lot of sideways wash onto the white ceiling.

This is *secondary* lighting for use in dark days, winter etc - not for
getting up to, she will have a regular dimmable lamp for that. T8 (or even
T5( tubes give me inexpensive fittings and a massive choice of tube
colour-
temps with decent efficiency.

So all I need to complete my plan is a way or machining place to get
nicely
shaped plastic sheet. Simulations with sheets of white paper held under a
tube suggest this will be a good method.


Fancy case could be long ovoid. Simpler would be a rectangle with strongly
radiused corners.


So I could either jigsaw it, then sand and somehow polish the edges. Not
sure how to do that - but it needs to look totally pro and not like it's
been hacked out by a jigsaw!


Or find some prototyping type place that can laser/water/CNC [1] cut the
stuff in small runs. [1] Whatever leaves a clean edge.

Any ideas?

If this works, I am tempted to deploy in the two hallways too.

Ta

Tim

Speak to your local sign company. They will most likely have everything you
are looking for and they will also be able to cut and perhaps even flame
polish the cut edges.

Neil

On 4 Sep, 19:20, Tim Watts wrote:
I have had a genius idea...

I mentioned I wanted some ceiling-wash tube lighting for the daughter's
bedroom... After considering cornice (trough) lighting, I have come up with
a better idea:

2 foot twin T8 fitting, HF ballast, fairly cheap, mounted in two key places
on ceiling. Hanging by fine chain/wire from ceiling about 15-20cm down, and
parallel-plane to ceiling is a flat sheet of white transluscent acrylic (or
similar), about 1m x 0.6m, say 5mm thick so it will hang by 4-6 wires/chains
at the corners. Has to be easy to unhook and clean because it will become a
little bug(ger) trap.

This will act as a part diffuser and part reflector allowing some light
through and a lot of sideways wash onto the white ceiling.

This is *secondary* lighting for use in dark days, winter etc - not for
getting up to, she will have a regular dimmable lamp for that. T8 (or even
T5( tubes give me inexpensive fittings and a massive choice of tube colour-
temps with decent efficiency.

So all I need to complete my plan is a way or machining place to get nicely
shaped plastic sheet. Simulations with sheets of white paper held under a
tube suggest this will be a good method.

Fancy case could be long ovoid. Simpler would be a rectangle with strongly
radiused corners.

So I could either jigsaw it, then sand and somehow polish the edges. Not
sure how to do that - but it needs to look totally pro and not like it's
been hacked out by a jigsaw!

Or find some prototyping type place that can laser/water/CNC [1] cut the
stuff in small runs. [1] Whatever leaves a clean edge.

Any ideas?

If this works, I am tempted to deploy in the two hallways too.

Ta

Tim

--
Tim Watts

doesn;t "natcheral filosofer" claim to be able to cut acrylic (laser,
waterjet, someat?)
Spose transport could be a killer in the first instance??

Jim K

Tim Watts wrote:


So all I need to complete my plan is a way or machining place to get
nicely shaped plastic sheet. Simulations with sheets of white paper held
under a tube suggest this will be a good method.

General reply:

Thanks for all the suggestions.

UKRM - hadn't thought of that - makes sense.

Sign place - definately worth a shot, in hindsight.

Good jigsaw method - well, I need an excuse to buy that Makita. I've found
places on the web that will supply all sorts of weird and interesting
plastics in small quantities, including cut to size so that's not a problem.

Jigsawing isn't going to be hard[1] providing the material cuts, so I think
that could be a goer. I did buff the edges of a small bit of acrylic once
with a dremel + polishing bit/paste - but that would take a while with the
meterage here. I've never heard of the "flame" method - I shall look into
that. But I do know I should get quite close with abrasive paper so I'll
only need to put the final shine on it.

[1] In that I'm working with manageable sizes.

Light transparancy of the edge isn't an issue - it's white anyway, just need
it to look "factory neat".

I like the idea of the "splat" shape - also means as long as the cuts are
smooth no-one will ever know if there are errors.

Point taken about size: I just wanted to indicate the general ball park I'm
thinking of.

For final design, if I'm sure I can pull it off - I would fit the tubes up
and do some paper mock ups - paper has similar light properties to the
plastic I have in mind.

Not too bothered if at some obscure angle the tubes are visible. The idea is
to avoid glare from normal positions. I don;t have the room dimensions for
fully hidden wash lighting.

I started out thinking 30W CFL with uplighter shade, but the 30W CFLs are
long and I can't find a shade I like and I'm after more lumens anyway.

Today, after mist-coating the walls and 1st coat on the ceiling, I find that
70W of daylight spiral CFLs (Prolight - they're good lamps) held towards the
ceiling without shades achieve about 1/2 of what I think the room needs. So
2ft tubes are bound to be a better bet.

It would be a good use of a circular tube, but the choices of tube types are
reduced. At least 2ft T5/T8's are so massively ubiquitous that if she
complains the light is wrong, I can tweak the colour temps.

If she turns into a goth[2] in 8 years and wants weird colours (or even
blacklights) that's possible too.

[2] I'm mentally prepared for everything, just about!

Thanks everyone.

Tim

--
Tim Watts

In message , Tim Watts
writes
Tim Watts wrote:


So all I need to complete my plan is a way or machining place to get
nicely shaped plastic sheet. Simulations with sheets of white paper held
under a tube suggest this will be a good method.

General reply:

Thanks for all the suggestions.

UKRM - hadn't thought of that - makes sense.


http://www.k2a.co.uk

Just tell Cane it's for your bike ...


--
geoff

On Sep 4, 11:05*pm, Tim Watts wrote:
Tim Watts wrote:

So all I need to complete my plan is a way or machining place to get
nicely shaped plastic sheet. Simulations with sheets of white paper held
under a tube suggest this will be a good method.

General reply:

Thanks for all the suggestions.

UKRM - hadn't thought of that - makes sense.

Sign place - definately worth a shot, in hindsight.

Good jigsaw method - well, I need an excuse to buy that Makita. I've found
places on the web that will supply all sorts of weird and interesting
plastics in small quantities, including cut to size so that's not a problem.

Jigsawing isn't going to be hard[1] providing the material cuts, so I think
that could be a goer. I did buff the edges of a small bit of acrylic once
with a dremel + polishing bit/paste - but that would take a while with the
meterage here. I've never heard of the "flame" method - I shall look into
that. But I do know I should get quite close with abrasive paper so I'll
only need to put the final shine on it.

[1] In that I'm working with manageable sizes.

Light transparancy of the edge isn't an issue - it's white anyway, just need
it to look "factory neat".

I like the idea of the "splat" shape - also means as long as the cuts are
smooth no-one will ever know if there are errors.

Point taken about size: I just wanted to indicate the general ball park I'm
thinking of.

For final design, if I'm sure I can pull it off - I would fit the tubes up
and do some paper mock ups - paper has similar light properties to the
plastic I have in mind.

Not too bothered if at some obscure angle the tubes are visible. The idea is
to avoid glare from normal positions. I don;t have the room dimensions for
fully hidden wash lighting.

I started out thinking 30W CFL with uplighter shade, but the 30W CFLs are
long and I can't find a shade I like and I'm after more lumens anyway.

Today, after mist-coating the walls and 1st coat on the ceiling, I find that
70W of daylight spiral CFLs (Prolight - they're good lamps) held towards the
ceiling without shades achieve about 1/2 of what I think the room needs. So
2ft tubes are bound to be a better bet.

It would be a good use of a circular tube, but the choices of tube types are
reduced. At least 2ft T5/T8's are so massively ubiquitous that if she
complains the light is wrong, I can tweak the colour temps.

If she turns into a goth[2] in 8 years and wants weird colours (or even
blacklights) that's possible too.

[2] I'm mentally prepared for everything, just about!

Thanks everyone.

Tim

If you're also installing the wiring, it might be worth adding a
couple of extra BC lampholders up there too. Then the thing can be
switched to a lower power CFL, or to say a blacklight.


NT

"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
Tim Watts wrote:


So all I need to complete my plan is a way or machining place to get
nicely shaped plastic sheet. Simulations with sheets of white paper held
under a tube suggest this will be a good method.

General reply:

Thanks for all the suggestions.

UKRM - hadn't thought of that - makes sense.

Sign place - definately worth a shot, in hindsight.

Good jigsaw method - well, I need an excuse to buy that Makita. I've found
places on the web that will supply all sorts of weird and interesting
plastics in small quantities, including cut to size so that's not a
problem.

Jigsawing isn't going to be hard[1] providing the material cuts, so I
think
that could be a goer. I did buff the edges of a small bit of acrylic once
with a dremel + polishing bit/paste - but that would take a while with the
meterage here.

I've never heard of the "flame" method - I shall look into
that. But I do know I should get quite close with abrasive paper so I'll
only need to put the final shine on it.

It depends on just how professional a finish you want - realising this is a
DIY group.

Flame polishing is used in the plastics industry to put a glass smooth
finish on the edges
http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/ACRYLIC_FINISHING.htm

Many modern sign companies would be able to supply all the materials (even
the electrics) and more than likely be able to cut the panels any shape on
their cnc router. But there again - it wouldn't be very DIY

Neil

Slainte wrote:


Many modern sign companies would be able to supply all the materials (even
the electrics) and more than likely be able to cut the panels any shape on
their cnc router. But there again - it wouldn't be very DIY

That's OK - I don't smelt my own iron either ;-

The DIY aspect is designing a fitting that does what I want without the cost
of some commercial "art deco" fitting which this would probably class as.


--
Tim Watts

On 04/09/2010 19:20, Tim Watts wrote:
I have had a genius idea...

I mentioned I wanted some ceiling-wash tube lighting for the daughter's
bedroom... After considering cornice (trough) lighting, I have come up with
a better idea:

2 foot twin T8 fitting, HF ballast, fairly cheap, mounted in two key places
on ceiling. Hanging by fine chain/wire from ceiling about 15-20cm down, and
parallel-plane to ceiling is a flat sheet of white transluscent acrylic (or
similar), about 1m x 0.6m, say 5mm thick so it will hang by 4-6 wires/chains
at the corners. Has to be easy to unhook and clean because it will become a
little bug(ger) trap.

This will act as a part diffuser and part reflector allowing some light
through and a lot of sideways wash onto the white ceiling.

This is *secondary* lighting for use in dark days, winter etc - not for
getting up to, she will have a regular dimmable lamp for that. T8 (or even
T5( tubes give me inexpensive fittings and a massive choice of tube colour-
temps with decent efficiency.

So all I need to complete my plan is a way or machining place to get nicely
shaped plastic sheet. Simulations with sheets of white paper held under a
tube suggest this will be a good method.


Fancy case could be long ovoid. Simpler would be a rectangle with strongly
radiused corners.


So I could either jigsaw it, then sand and somehow polish the edges. Not
sure how to do that - but it needs to look totally pro and not like it's
been hacked out by a jigsaw!


Or find some prototyping type place that can laser/water/CNC [1] cut the
stuff in small runs. [1] Whatever leaves a clean edge.

Any ideas?

If this works, I am tempted to deploy in the two hallways too.

Ta

Tim



I think you would be better off with toughened glass, you will have some
UV coming off the lamps which may in time degrade the perspex, a sheet
of perspex that size if held only on the corners will also probably
distort with time. Sorry to be negative but it might be worth checking
those 2 points before paying big bucks for perspex.
Good Luck
Don

On 4 Sep, 19:20, Tim Watts wrote:
I have had a genius idea...

I mentioned I wanted some ceiling-wash tube lighting for the daughter's
bedroom... After considering cornice (trough) lighting, I have come up with
a better idea:

2 foot twin T8 fitting, HF ballast, fairly cheap, mounted in two key places
on ceiling. Hanging by fine chain/wire from ceiling about 15-20cm down, and
parallel-plane to ceiling is a flat sheet of white transluscent acrylic (or
similar), about 1m x 0.6m, say 5mm thick so it will hang by 4-6 wires/chains
at the corners. Has to be easy to unhook and clean because it will become a
little bug(ger) trap.

This will act as a part diffuser and part reflector allowing some light
through and a lot of sideways wash onto the white ceiling.

This is *secondary* lighting for use in dark days, winter etc - not for
getting up to, she will have a regular dimmable lamp for that. T8 (or even
T5( tubes give me inexpensive fittings and a massive choice of tube colour-
temps with decent efficiency.

So all I need to complete my plan is a way or machining place to get nicely
shaped plastic sheet. Simulations with sheets of white paper held under a
tube suggest this will be a good method.

Fancy case could be long ovoid. Simpler would be a rectangle with strongly
radiused corners.

So I could either jigsaw it, then sand and somehow polish the edges. Not
sure how to do that - but it needs to look totally pro and not like it's
been hacked out by a jigsaw!

Or find some prototyping type place that can laser/water/CNC [1] cut the
stuff in small runs. [1] Whatever leaves a clean edge.

Any ideas?

If this works, I am tempted to deploy in the two hallways too.

Ta

Tim

--
Tim Watts

Polycarbonate is a lot easier to deal with but costs more. Also won't
break if dropped.

In article ,
Tim Watts wrote:
So I could either jigsaw it, then sand and somehow polish the edges. Not
sure how to do that - but it needs to look totally pro and not like it's
been hacked out by a jigsaw!

Perspex is very easy to work. Obviously cutting it requires the normal
skills for such things, but after cutting it can be filed and sanded
smooth followed by something like Brasso to give the same finish as the
main surface. A bit like paint on a car.

--
*Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder...

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...

So I could either jigsaw it, then sand and somehow polish the edges. Not
sure how to do that - but it needs to look totally pro and not like it's
been hacked out by a jigsaw!


Or find some prototyping type place that can laser/water/CNC [1] cut the
stuff in small runs. [1] Whatever leaves a clean edge.

Any ideas?

A router with a standard 2 flute bottom cutting TCT bit will give perfectly
clean cuts in acrylic.

I've cut out loads of portholes - using a home made tramel - to take fans,
cutting the stuff to exact sizes etc in various thicknesses.

I've also cut out fancy shapes using plywood templates - fixed with
double sided tape and a guide bush.


michael adams

....





If this works, I am tempted to deploy in the two hallways too.

Ta

Tim


--
Tim Watts