Looking to test AA, AAA etc batteries. There seem to be 4 testers commonly
available;

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?MenuNo=77841

Just want bin it or use it info really, don't mind paying a bit more for a
better one though.

Any comments?


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 12/08/2010 21:36, The Medway Handyman wrote:
Looking to test AA, AAA etc batteries. There seem to be 4 testers commonly
available;

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?MenuNo=77841

Just want bin it or use it info really, don't mind paying a bit more for a
better one though.

Any comments?



Many people find a multimeter quite adequate for doing this

http://www.ladyada.net/library/metertut/voltage.html

Maplin sell them from £5-ish and you have an instrument which can be
used for many more jobs than just checking batteries.

j

Djornsk wrote:
On 12/08/2010 21:36, The Medway Handyman wrote:
Looking to test AA, AAA etc batteries. There seem to be 4 testers
commonly available;

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?MenuNo=77841

Just want bin it or use it info really, don't mind paying a bit more
for a better one though.

Any comments?



Many people find a multimeter quite adequate for doing this

http://www.ladyada.net/library/metertut/voltage.html

Maplin sell them from £5-ish and you have an instrument which can be
used for many more jobs than just checking batteries.

Should have said, obviously I have a DMM, but the scale on DC volts doesn't
give a meaningfull result with batteries, besides which I want to keep it in
a drawer in the kitchen, not in the van :-)


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 12 Aug, 22:22, "The Medway Handyman" davidl...@no-spam-
blueyonder.co.uk wrote:
Djornsk wrote:
On 12/08/2010 21:36, The Medway Handyman wrote:
Looking to test AA, AAA etc batteries. *There seem to be 4 testers
commonly available;

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?MenuNo=77841

Just want bin it or use it info really, don't mind paying a bit more
for a better one though.

Any comments?

Many people find a multimeter quite adequate for doing this

http://www.ladyada.net/library/metertut/voltage.html

Maplin sell them from £5-ish and you have an instrument which can be
used for many more jobs than just checking batteries.

Should have said, obviously I have a DMM, but the scale on DC volts doesn't
give a meaningfull result with batteries, besides which I want to keep it in
a drawer in the kitchen, not in the van :-)


Best to get a DMM with 1.5 and 9v battery test ranges that put a heavy
load on the battery, otherwise the no load voltage is not a good test.

eg. Powercraft PMM-940 that Aldi sell from time to time for about £6.


rusty

therustyone wrote:
On 12 Aug, 22:22, "The Medway Handyman" davidl...@no-spam-
blueyonder.co.uk wrote:
Djornsk wrote:
On 12/08/2010 21:36, The Medway Handyman wrote:
Looking to test AA, AAA etc batteries. There seem to be 4 testers
commonly available;

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?MenuNo=77841

Just want bin it or use it info really, don't mind paying a bit
more for a better one though.

Any comments?

Many people find a multimeter quite adequate for doing this

http://www.ladyada.net/library/metertut/voltage.html

Maplin sell them from £5-ish and you have an instrument which can be
used for many more jobs than just checking batteries.

Should have said, obviously I have a DMM, but the scale on DC volts
doesn't give a meaningfull result with batteries, besides which I
want to keep it in a drawer in the kitchen, not in the van :-)


Best to get a DMM with 1.5 and 9v battery test ranges that put a heavy
load on the battery, otherwise the no load voltage is not a good test.

Ah. Interesting. Didn't realise that - thanks.

eg. Powercraft PMM-940 that Aldi sell from time to time for about £6.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Aug 12, 10:40*pm, "The Medway Handyman" davidl...@no-spam-
blueyonder.co.uk wrote:
therustyone wrote:
On 12 Aug, 22:22, "The Medway Handyman" davidl...@no-spam-
blueyonder.co.uk wrote:
Djornsk wrote:
On 12/08/2010 21:36, The Medway Handyman wrote:
Looking to test AA, AAA etc batteries. There seem to be 4 testers
commonly available;

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?MenuNo=77841

Just want bin it or use it info really, don't mind paying a bit
more for a better one though.

Any comments?

Many people find a multimeter quite adequate for doing this

http://www.ladyada.net/library/metertut/voltage.html

Maplin sell them from £5-ish and you have an instrument which can be
used for many more jobs than just checking batteries.

Should have said, obviously I have a DMM, but the scale on DC volts
doesn't give a meaningfull result with batteries, besides which I
want to keep it in a drawer in the kitchen, not in the van :-)

Best to get a DMM with 1.5 and 9v battery test ranges that put a heavy
load on the battery, otherwise the no load voltage is not a good test.

Ah. *Interesting. *Didn't realise that - thanks.

eg. Powercraft PMM-940 that Aldi sell from time to time for about £6.


Rapid online do a £2.44 multimeter that has current loaded 1.5v and 9v
scales.


NT

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
news:GCZ8o.45730$Pi3.1913@hurricane...

besides which I want to keep it in a drawer in the kitchen, not in the van
:-)

How about this then, one for the drawer and another for the van, I have two
and they work for me, I have two boys that have a lot of battery operated
toys and this finds the dead one in a set of 4.

http://www.7dayshop.com/catalog/prod...ucts_id=107330

HTH

John

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Djornsk wrote:
On 12/08/2010 21:36, The Medway Handyman wrote:
Looking to test AA, AAA etc batteries. There seem to be 4 testers
commonly available;

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?MenuNo=77841

Just want bin it or use it info really, don't mind paying a bit more
for a better one though.

Any comments?


Many people find a multimeter quite adequate for doing this

http://www.ladyada.net/library/metertut/voltage.html

Maplin sell them from £5-ish and you have an instrument which can be
used for many more jobs than just checking batteries.

Should have said, obviously I have a DMM, but the scale on DC volts doesn't
give a meaningfull result with batteries, besides which I want to keep it in
a drawer in the kitchen, not in the van :-)

I'm surprised that you don't carry a DMM around all the time!

Others have pointed you at dedicated battery testers but if, like me,
you have a DMM with a 10A range*, a quick dab across each cell will soon
sort them out. Expect ~7A or more from an alkaline AA, but even 4A shows
a lot of useful capacity is left. An exhausted cell will, even if it
registers a highish initial current, drop to nigh on zero virtually
immediately

* I must admit my Fluke will will withstand 20A for a short period, so
is virtually bomb proof for this!

--

Terry

Terry Casey wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Djornsk wrote:
On 12/08/2010 21:36, The Medway Handyman wrote:
Looking to test AA, AAA etc batteries. There seem to be 4 testers
commonly available;

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?MenuNo=77841

Just want bin it or use it info really, don't mind paying a bit
more for a better one though.

Any comments?


Many people find a multimeter quite adequate for doing this

http://www.ladyada.net/library/metertut/voltage.html

Maplin sell them from £5-ish and you have an instrument which can be
used for many more jobs than just checking batteries.

Should have said, obviously I have a DMM, but the scale on DC volts
doesn't give a meaningfull result with batteries, besides which I
want to keep it in a drawer in the kitchen, not in the van :-)

I'm surprised that you don't carry a DMM around all the time!

I do. But its range on DC volts is not comprehensive to register anything
meaningful on an AA battery.

Others have pointed you at dedicated battery testers but if, like me,
you have a DMM with a 10A range*,

My DMM can't measure DC amps AFAIK
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...s_7/index.html

Not my choice - inherited. Works for me, all I need is AC volts &
continuity.

a quick dab across each cell will
soon sort them out. Expect ~7A or more from an alkaline AA, but even
4A shows a lot of useful capacity is left. An exhausted cell will,
even if it registers a highish initial current, drop to nigh on zero
virtually immediately

* I must admit my Fluke will will withstand 20A for a short period, so
is virtually bomb proof for this!

Can you suggest a suitable DMM?


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Terry Casey wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Djornsk wrote:
On 12/08/2010 21:36, The Medway Handyman wrote:
Looking to test AA, AAA etc batteries. There seem to be 4 testers
commonly available;

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?MenuNo=77841

Just want bin it or use it info really, don't mind paying a bit
more for a better one though.

Any comments?


Many people find a multimeter quite adequate for doing this

http://www.ladyada.net/library/metertut/voltage.html

Maplin sell them from £5-ish and you have an instrument which can be
used for many more jobs than just checking batteries.
Should have said, obviously I have a DMM, but the scale on DC volts
doesn't give a meaningfull result with batteries, besides which I
want to keep it in a drawer in the kitchen, not in the van :-)
I'm surprised that you don't carry a DMM around all the time!

I do. But its range on DC volts is not comprehensive to register anything
meaningful on an AA battery.

Others have pointed you at dedicated battery testers but if, like me,
you have a DMM with a 10A range*,

My DMM can't measure DC amps AFAIK
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...s_7/index.html

Not my choice - inherited. Works for me, all I need is AC volts &
continuity.

a quick dab across each cell will
soon sort them out. Expect ~7A or more from an alkaline AA, but even
4A shows a lot of useful capacity is left. An exhausted cell will,
even if it registers a highish initial current, drop to nigh on zero
virtually immediately

* I must admit my Fluke will will withstand 20A for a short period, so
is virtually bomb proof for this!

Can you suggest a suitable DMM?

Not something I've needed to look for recently but, if your present DMM
is suitable for all your normal needs, I think some of the suggestions
made for dedicated battery testers previously have been cheaper than a
better DMM.

However, I'm surprised your current DMM doesn't have a suitable voltage
range - hard to tell from the link you posted but, from the picture it
seems to be autoranging. Perhaps it doesn't have sufficient display
resolution?

I found this completely at random:

http://www.rapidonline.com/productin...801cfee9b70bd3

or

http://tinyurl.com/26phnhw

which, for just over £6, has a 2V DC range (shown as 2000mV) and a 10A
DC current range, so could usefully complement your existing DMM for a
very small outlay!

--

Terry

It happens that Djornsk formulated :
Many people find a multimeter quite adequate for doing this

http://www.ladyada.net/library/metertut/voltage.html

Maplin sell them from £5-ish and you have an instrument which can be used for
many more jobs than just checking batteries.

The problem with using a multimeter, is that they don't put any load on
the battery - so a battery might produce the voltage, but due to high
internal resistance not be able to produce the current.

I have one of the cheapest ones and it works reasonably well. You won't
gain anything by buying the LCD display one.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

In message , Harry
Bloomfield writes
The problem with using a multimeter, is that they don't put any load on
the battery - so a battery might produce the voltage, but due to high
internal resistance not be able to produce the current.

I've always used a proper multimeter with a needle, on a suitable amps
range. Just one dab of the leads on the various batteries and you soon
see the dud ones.
--
Bill

In message , Djornsk
writes
On 12/08/2010 21:36, The Medway Handyman wrote:
Looking to test AA, AAA etc batteries. There seem to be 4 testers commonly
available;

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?MenuNo=77841

Just want bin it or use it info really, don't mind paying a bit more for a
better one though.

Any comments?



Many people find a multimeter quite adequate for doing this

http://www.ladyada.net/library/metertut/voltage.html

Maplin sell them from £5-ish and you have an instrument which can be
used for many more jobs than just checking batteries.


Really you need to load the battery so that there is current flowing

A multimeter presenting what, 100megs?, Won't do this


--
geoff

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 21:13:38 +0100, geoff wrote:

In message , Djornsk
writes
On 12/08/2010 21:36, The Medway Handyman wrote:
Looking to test AA, AAA etc batteries. There seem to be 4 testers commonly
available;

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?MenuNo=77841

Just want bin it or use it info really, don't mind paying a bit more for a
better one though.

Any comments?



Many people find a multimeter quite adequate for doing this

http://www.ladyada.net/library/metertut/voltage.html

Maplin sell them from £5-ish and you have an instrument which can be
used for many more jobs than just checking batteries.


Really you need to load the battery so that there is current flowing

A multimeter presenting what, 100megs?, Won't do this

Many years ago the GPO had "Coils Testing" for individual dry cells
(usually large ones such as Flag cells (R40 and the like)).
It had a resistive load connected via a press button. You connected it
across the cell and a voltmeter.
First of all you measured the emf directly on the voltmeter, then
pressed the button and measured the pd to enable a sort of
"measurement" of internal resistance. You held the load button down
for, ISTR, a minute and again read the meter (after releasing the
button) - this time to see the effect of polarisation (gas building up
on the internal electrodes).
By reference to tables and, more effectively, experience you got a
good idea of the condition of the cell.

There - I've just looked it up - the load applied by the testing coil
is 2 ohms.

As described:-


(i) Measure the open circuit emf of the cell: let this be E1 volts.

(ii) Connect a 2 ohm resistor across the cell and measure the terminal
pd - V volts.

(iii) Remove the resistor from across the cell after one minute and
measure the emf immediately the resistor is disconnected:- call this
E2 volts.

The value of V and E1 enable the internal resistance r to be
calculated, for the current is
I = E1/(2+r)
and the voltage drop across the internal resistance is
Ir = E1r/(2+r) = (E1 - V)

from which r may be found.

The difference between E1 and E2 indicates the back-emf of
polarisation. E2 should not be less than 1·2V.



Me - an anorak?

:-)

Of course the actual figures will depend of factors such as type of
batt^h^h^h^h cell (the above is all for zinc-carbon Leclanché), the
size of the cell and so on.

--
Frank Erskine

In message , Frank Erskine
writes
On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 21:13:38 +0100, geoff wrote:

In message , Djornsk
writes
On 12/08/2010 21:36, The Medway Handyman wrote:
Looking to test AA, AAA etc batteries. There seem to be 4 testers commonly
available;

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?MenuNo=77841

Just want bin it or use it info really, don't mind paying a bit more for a
better one though.

Any comments?



Many people find a multimeter quite adequate for doing this

http://www.ladyada.net/library/metertut/voltage.html

Maplin sell them from £5-ish and you have an instrument which can be
used for many more jobs than just checking batteries.


Really you need to load the battery so that there is current flowing

A multimeter presenting what, 100megs?, Won't do this

Many years ago the GPO had "Coils Testing" for individual dry cells
(usually large ones such as Flag cells (R40 and the like)).
It had a resistive load connected via a press button. You connected it
across the cell and a voltmeter.
First of all you measured the emf directly on the voltmeter, then
pressed the button and measured the pd to enable a sort of
"measurement" of internal resistance. You held the load button down
for, ISTR, a minute and again read the meter (after releasing the
button) - this time to see the effect of polarisation (gas building up
on the internal electrodes).
By reference to tables and, more effectively, experience you got a
good idea of the condition of the cell.

There - I've just looked it up - the load applied by the testing coil
is 2 ohms.

As described:-


(i) Measure the open circuit emf of the cell: let this be E1 volts.

(ii) Connect a 2 ohm resistor across the cell and measure the terminal
pd - V volts.

(iii) Remove the resistor from across the cell after one minute and
measure the emf immediately the resistor is disconnected:- call this
E2 volts.

The value of V and E1 enable the internal resistance r to be
calculated, for the current is
I = E1/(2+r)
and the voltage drop across the internal resistance is
Ir = E1r/(2+r) = (E1 - V)

from which r may be found.

The difference between E1 and E2 indicates the back-emf of
polarisation. E2 should not be less than 1·2V.



Me - an anorak?

:-)

Of course the actual figures will depend of factors such as type of
batt^h^h^h^h cell (the above is all for zinc-carbon Leclanché), the
size of the cell and so on.

And maybe a bit over the top for testing an AA cell

--
geoff

On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 00:18:28 +0100, geoff wrote:

In message , Frank Erskine
writes
On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 21:13:38 +0100, geoff wrote:

In message , Djornsk
writes
On 12/08/2010 21:36, The Medway Handyman wrote:
Looking to test AA, AAA etc batteries. There seem to be 4 testers commonly
available;

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?MenuNo=77841

Just want bin it or use it info really, don't mind paying a bit more for a
better one though.

Any comments?



Many people find a multimeter quite adequate for doing this

http://www.ladyada.net/library/metertut/voltage.html

Maplin sell them from £5-ish and you have an instrument which can be
used for many more jobs than just checking batteries.


Really you need to load the battery so that there is current flowing

A multimeter presenting what, 100megs?, Won't do this

Many years ago the GPO had "Coils Testing" for individual dry cells
(usually large ones such as Flag cells (R40 and the like)).
It had a resistive load connected via a press button. You connected it
across the cell and a voltmeter.
First of all you measured the emf directly on the voltmeter, then
pressed the button and measured the pd to enable a sort of
"measurement" of internal resistance. You held the load button down
for, ISTR, a minute and again read the meter (after releasing the
button) - this time to see the effect of polarisation (gas building up
on the internal electrodes).
By reference to tables and, more effectively, experience you got a
good idea of the condition of the cell.

There - I've just looked it up - the load applied by the testing coil
is 2 ohms.

As described:-


(i) Measure the open circuit emf of the cell: let this be E1 volts.

(ii) Connect a 2 ohm resistor across the cell and measure the terminal
pd - V volts.

(iii) Remove the resistor from across the cell after one minute and
measure the emf immediately the resistor is disconnected:- call this
E2 volts.

The value of V and E1 enable the internal resistance r to be
calculated, for the current is
I = E1/(2+r)
and the voltage drop across the internal resistance is
Ir = E1r/(2+r) = (E1 - V)

from which r may be found.

The difference between E1 and E2 indicates the back-emf of
polarisation. E2 should not be less than 1·2V.



Me - an anorak?

:-)

Of course the actual figures will depend of factors such as type of
batt^h^h^h^h cell (the above is all for zinc-carbon Leclanché), the
size of the cell and so on.

And maybe a bit over the top for testing an AA cell

Perhaps - but how many perfectly serviceable cells are scrapped
nowadays to cause unnecessary pollution? Zinc-carbon is probably
fairly innocuous but such things as NiCd, thrown away willy-nilly are
likely to not help the environment.
Having said that - don't all these things come from the earth in the
first place anyway? :-)

--
Frank Erskine

On 12 Aug, 21:36, "The Medway Handyman" davidl...@no-spam-
blueyonder.co.uk wrote:
Looking to test AA, AAA etc batteries. *There seem to be 4 testers commonly
available;

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?MenuNo=77841

Just want bin it or use it info really, don't mind paying a bit more for a
better one though.

Any comments?

--
Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk

All battery testers do is put a small load on the battery and measure
the voltage. You can easily concoct something to do this. Even a small
torch with filament bulb not LED. Put battery in, switch on look at
bulb. No need to buy these gismos..

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember harry saying
something like:

All battery testers do is put a small load on the battery and measure
the voltage. You can easily concoct something to do this. Even a small
torch with filament bulb not LED. Put battery in, switch on look at
bulb. No need to buy these gismos..

How very handy that would be if you have a dozen or more to test - not.

"harry" wrote in message
...
On 12 Aug, 21:36, "The Medway Handyman" davidl...@no-spam-
blueyonder.co.uk wrote:
Looking to test AA, AAA etc batteries. There seem to be 4 testers commonly
available;

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?MenuNo=77841

Just want bin it or use it info really, don't mind paying a bit more for a
better one though.

Any comments?

--
Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk

- All battery testers do is put a small load on the battery and measure
- the voltage. You can easily concoct something to do this. Even a small
- torch with filament bulb not LED. Put battery in, switch on look at
- bulb. No need to buy these gismos..


Torches ?

Sheer Luxury !

In my day dad would send us all out looking for a short bit of copper
wire. And tell us not to come back till we found one. Then he'd show us
how to make a loop in one end of the wire, put the loop round the bulb,
press the bulb on the top of the battery while putting the other end of
the wire on the table and stand the battery on that.

In winter time that was out only source of illumination. And so we all
had to take turns holding the bulb while dad read the evening paper.


michael adams

....

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
newsXY8o.137422$X%4.85529@hurricane...
Looking to test AA, AAA etc batteries. There seem to be 4 testers commonly
available;

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?MenuNo=77841

Just want bin it or use it info really, don't mind paying a bit more for a
better one though.

Any comments?


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk



From memory one big problem with battery testers is that different
types of battery run down at different rates - the same reading on
one type may mean another hours worth of use, while on another type
the battery is effectively dead, or may conk out without notice at
any minute,

When using a cheap yellow mulitmeter on all types of battery I've found
there's always one position on the dial which will give a reading
within the range I'm looking for. Basically it's then a matter of
waiting until a battery or set of batteries is exhausted, and then
comparing the readings on those with the readings from the new
replacement set. That should then give some idea of the likely range
for that type of battery.


michael adams

....

michael adams wrote:

When using a cheap yellow mulitmeter on all types of battery I've found
there's always one position on the dial which will give a reading
within the range I'm looking for. Basically it's then a matter of
waiting until a battery or set of batteries is exhausted, and then
comparing the readings on those with the readings from the new
replacement set. That should then give some idea of the likely range
for that type of battery.

But it depends on the intended use of the battery as well. A battery that's
got too weak for a torch or Walkman will drive a clock for many months.

--
Mike Clarke

On 13/08/10 15:02, Huge wrote:
But it depends on the intended use of the battery as well. A battery that's
got too weak for a torch or Walkman will drive a clock for many months.

I can tell when the battery in my travel alarm clock is dying; if I switch
its light on, the clock stops ...

I have one which only works on its back otherwise it gets stuck at
quarter to.

Jim wrote:
On 13/08/10 15:02, Huge wrote:
But it depends on the intended use of the battery as well. A
battery that's got too weak for a torch or Walkman will drive a
clock for many months.

I can tell when the battery in my travel alarm clock is dying; if I
switch its light on, the clock stops ...

I have one which only works on its back otherwise it gets stuck at
quarter to.

quarter to what? )