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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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G'day people. I couldn't find a previous reference here, so I hope I'm not
covering old ground again. If I am, I beg forgiveness and hope somebody can help. I have a 6-year old Potterton Kingfisher CF60 boiler that is overheating. It is in a simple system with gravity hot water and pumped heating. When programmed for hot water only - no heating - it occasionally (gradually becoming more frequent and now occurring about once or twice per week) boils so that water is forced out of the vent pipe into the header tank. If switched off completely and started again from cold (typically left until next day) it seems to work ok again - until the next time! I am unable to do the work myself, so a couple of weeks ago, I had a Certified chappie service the boiler and put some dispersant/detergent goop into the system to stir up the black sludge ready for draining and refilling. The overheating problem was in evidence before this, and it did not suddenly get worse after, so I don't think there is any connection between the events but thought I should mention it anyway. After the usual eruption last night, SWMBO turned the boiler off, the way she does, by means of the control on the front of the unit. I switched it on again this morning, and it seems to be working ok again as expected. One thing I did notice, however, is immediately after the gas shut off (after a fairly short heating time, as the control is on a low setting) there was a clicking sound, like a relay operating, five or six times, as if it was trying to re-light, which of course it didn't do until some minutes later, after the heat exchanger had cooled down. This clicking only occurred for a couple of seconds right after the flames shut down, it wasn't continuous. The User Guide, explains that the boiler is fitted with a "safety thermostat to protect against overheating of the water" which if it operates shuts the boiler off, requiring a 'Reset' button to be pressed to restart it. The red warning light has never illuminated, the boiler has never "locked out" like the Guide says it should and it can always be restarted without the button being pressed. I found several very similar posts to this in other groups on the Interweb, but none that I could see explained the cause and and how to fix it. I am concerned that this problem seems fairly common - especially in boilers of a similar age - and I am worried that the 'overheat protect' system allows the water to boil. I called my CORGI (or whatever they are called this week) registered man a couple of days ago and he is coming tomorrow to flush out the system and look at the faulty boiler again. I would be most grateful if someone here could help me resolve this problem. I have, of course, told my CORGI man about it, but the boiler operated faultlessly - like they do - when he came before, and he was (probably quite correctly) reluctant to spend money on buying replacement parts until he is sure that they will effect a cure. I won't say cost is irrelevant, because obviously I don't particularly want to waste money, but I am anxious to get it fixed. If items 'A' or 'B' could equally well be the cause but we don't know which one actually is, I would rather replace 'em both than spend more time trying to find out. Help! Please? Mike. (Hatfield, Hertfordshire) |
#2
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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It does indeed sound like the overheat stat has failed, and shouldn't cost
much to have replaced on spec, even although it appears to work sometimes - like when the engineer calls. But you could just turn the boiler down initially to perhaps 80C or so - it doesn't need to be full up for just heating the water. -- *The early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#3
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"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
... It does indeed sound like the overheat stat has failed, and shouldn't cost much to have replaced on spec, even although it appears to work sometimes - like when the engineer calls. But you could just turn the boiler down initially to perhaps 80C or so - it doesn't need to be full up for just heating the water. Thanks Dave. It was, actually, on a lowish temperature setting already (and 50 to 82 degrees is allegedly the control range). I have investigated further my looking at a parts list in the installation manual, and the temperature control systems seems to be a little more sophisticated than a straight old-fashioned on/off thermostat, using as it does, a thermistor sensing element, and a potentiometer which are connected to an electronic control board. As BOTH functions seemd to be dodgy (temp control AND overheat) it might be something as simple as one (or more) of those grotty spade connectors that has corroded over the years. I'll ask my man when he comes to remove and replace the connectors a couple of times. Can't do any harm and may do some good! |
#4
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In article ,
Mike Faithfull wrote: "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... It does indeed sound like the overheat stat has failed, and shouldn't cost much to have replaced on spec, even although it appears to work sometimes - like when the engineer calls. But you could just turn the boiler down initially to perhaps 80C or so - it doesn't need to be full up for just heating the water. Thanks Dave. It was, actually, on a lowish temperature setting already (and 50 to 82 degrees is allegedly the control range). So it looks like two faults. I have investigated further my looking at a parts list in the installation manual, and the temperature control systems seems to be a little more sophisticated than a straight old-fashioned on/off thermostat, using as it does, a thermistor sensing element, and a potentiometer which are connected to an electronic control board. As BOTH functions seemd to be dodgy (temp control AND overheat) it might be something as simple as one (or more) of those grotty spade connectors that has corroded over the years. I'll ask my man when he comes to remove and replace the connectors a couple of times. Can't do any harm and may do some good! I'd expect it to be more sophisticated than my Kingfisher which I changed only a couple of years ago after some 25 years of near faultless service. Sadly, Potterton lost the plot reliability wise. -- *A backward poet writes inverse.* Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#5
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replying to Dave Plowman (News), Lucky wrote:
I though there was something wrong with my boiler just this week. Had someone out to inspect and all I can hear them say is 'new boiler, new boiler'. After doing some troubleshooting (and blind luck) I found my overheatining problem had to do with the pump (in the loft) being air bound. After venting the system from the loft (not the radiator), it has gone back to normal. -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...ng-640196-.htm |
#6
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On Sunday, 7 January 2018 16:14:08 UTC, Lucky wrote:
replying to Dave Plowman (News), Lucky wrote: I though there was something wrong with my boiler just this week. Had someone out to inspect and all I can hear them say is 'new boiler, new boiler'. After doing some troubleshooting (and blind luck) I found my overheatining problem had to do with the pump (in the loft) being air bound. After venting the system from the loft (not the radiator), it has gone back to normal. You'd be luckier if you came here via any other portal. The site you're using is partly nonfunctional, hated by almost everyone, and feeds users threads many years out of date. http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...up_access_tips NT |
#8
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In article ,
Lucky m wrote: replying to Dave Plowman (News), Lucky wrote: Thanks very much for your help. But I changed the KingFisher for a Veissmann over 10 years ago. -- *Snowmen fall from Heaven unassembled* Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
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