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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
Posted to uk.d-i-y,alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking
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advice on table top finish
I have a dining table top with a repaired veneer finish. It has had three
coats of waterbased Ronseal called 'Diamond hard varnish' put onto to it. Trouble is, that if water is not wiped off staight away from this varnish (and say gets trapped under a flower vase of water); it creates a white ring stain. I want to put on an *oiled* based coat and phoned ronseal technical help line to see if it was ok to paint their oil based 'ultra tough varnish' on top of the water based diamond hard varnish. They said it was ok to do so. I forgot to ask them if the oil based ultra tough is a *polyurathane* varnish or not, and their office is now closed for the weekend. (i want to do it this weekend). I cannot find whether it is or not a polyurathane varnish from their website. Is this ultra tough varnish likely to be more *scratch resistant* than the diamond hard varnish already on the table or not, would you say? Also it comes in three finishes; gloss, satin and matt. I would prefer to use the matt, but have been told by someone that usually gloss is more hardwearing than matt paints. Do you think that it would make much difference between gloss and matt with this ultra tough varnish? Thanks for any advice. |
#2
Posted to uk.d-i-y,alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking
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advice on table top finish
On Jun 4, 12:06*pm, "john hamilton" wrote:
I have a dining table top with a repaired veneer finish. It has had three coats of waterbased Ronseal called 'Diamond hard varnish' put onto to it. Trouble is, that if water is not wiped off staight away from this varnish (and say gets trapped under a flower vase of water); it creates a white ring stain. I want to put on an *oiled* based coat and phoned ronseal technical help line to see if it was ok to paint their oil based 'ultra tough varnish' on top of the water based diamond hard varnish. They said it was ok to do so.. I forgot to ask them if the oil based ultra tough is a *polyurathane* varnish or not, and their office is now closed for the weekend. (i want to do it this weekend). I cannot find whether it is or not a polyurathane varnish from their website. Is this ultra tough varnish likely to be more *scratch resistant* than the diamond hard varnish already on the table or not, would you say? Also it comes in three finishes; gloss, satin and matt. I would prefer to use the matt, but have been told by someone that usually gloss is more hardwearing than matt paints. Do you think that it would make much difference between gloss and matt with this ultra tough varnish? * *Thanks for any advice. You may have made a poor choice of finishes for your table top. For really tough and scratch resistant coatings, research bar varnishes. There are few environments that take more abuse than a bar does, so what works there should be perfect for your table. As a general rule, most water based polyurethanes are somewhat less durable than oil based. Joe |
#3
Posted to uk.d-i-y,alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking
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advice on table top finish
On Jun 4, 1:40*pm, Joe wrote:
On Jun 4, 12:06*pm, "john hamilton" wrote: I have a dining table top with a repaired veneer finish. It has had three coats of waterbased Ronseal called 'Diamond hard varnish' put onto to it. |
#4
Posted to uk.d-i-y,alt.home.repair,rec.woodworking
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advice on table top finish
"john hamilton" wrote in message ... I have a dining table top with a repaired veneer finish. It has had three coats of waterbased Ronseal called 'Diamond hard varnish' put onto to it. Trouble is, that if water is not wiped off staight away from this varnish (and say gets trapped under a flower vase of water); it creates a white ring stain. I want to put on an *oiled* based coat and phoned ronseal technical help line to see if it was ok to paint their oil based 'ultra tough varnish' on top of the water based diamond hard varnish. They said it was ok to do so. I forgot to ask them if the oil based ultra tough is a *polyurathane* varnish or not, and their office is now closed for the weekend. (i want to do it this weekend). I cannot find whether it is or not a polyurathane varnish from their website. Is this ultra tough varnish likely to be more *scratch resistant* than the diamond hard varnish already on the table or not, would you say? Also it comes in three finishes; gloss, satin and matt. I would prefer to use the matt, but have been told by someone that usually gloss is more hardwearing than matt paints. Do you think that it would make much difference between gloss and matt with this ultra tough varnish? Thanks for any advice. Generally I would not use water-based varnish if there was a choice: especially in an environment where water is likely to be spilt. Also, a table top is one place where I would break my usual rule of 'diamond hard is best' (other types tending to be rather tacky and difficult to sand). The surface of your table *is* going to get scratched, and the harder the finish the worse it will look. I think that, before trying any drastic varnish treatments, I would try it with linseed/Danish/teak oils, or French polish. At least when these get marked you can just wipe over with white spirit or meths and fine steel wool, before repolishing, and can also add extra wipes of polish/oil whenever you like. Varnish itself is easy enough to put on but sometimes leaves you wishing you hadn't. S |
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