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Drilling problems into concrete
Dave Plowman (News) brought next idea :
I've a feeling there were pneumatic 'hammer' drills around before SDS but fiendishly expensive. The only candidate I can think of, was the Red Head. That had hammer, but no rotation - you supplied the rotation. -- Regards, Harry (M1BYT) (L) http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk |
Drilling problems into concrete
On 16 May, 14:23, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote: On Sun, 16 May 2010 05:38:26 -0700 (PDT), JimK wrote: IMHO if a job *needs* SDS you will usually want some weight behind it. Define "needs". erm.... when other drills won't do it? ;))) JimK |
Drilling problems into concrete
"Grimly Curmudgeon" wrote in message ... Keep your old drill for those times when you might need a bit more precision. Otoh, I use the SDS drill for most things and find the 'wobbly' chuck thing to be over-stated. I'm the opposite, I use a 18V Ryobi and some Bosh drills. Seldom need to even turn the hammer on, although I did for doing some very hard bricks today. I only use the SDS for breaking things. |
Drilling problems into concrete
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember JimK saying something like: horses for courses shurely? My ancient cheapo heavy SDS is only really called out for biggish/ roughish drilling jobs - say 10mm up, or chiselling out bigger holes,,breaking small amounts of concrete etc... anything smaller - cordless or mains ordinary hammer drills (equally cheapo) The cheap ones are OK if you don't mind the weight. Indeed a mate has a lightweight Dewalt SDS mains drill and I had a go with it whilst helping him on a job - TBH I thought it was sh1te compared to my big cheapo one or was I missing something? Yes. You're missing the thrilling experience of having to heft the weighty cheapy one around all day long. Half or a third of the weight makes a helluva difference to usage. IMHO if a job *needs* SDS you will usually want some weight behind it. Not so. My old Bosch green SDS is about ten years old now (only needed a set of brushes two years ago) and is still packing the same punch it did when new. It happily chomps away at 10" thick walls with 25mm drill or chisel. Of course, for the big stuff I have an Bosch SDS-Max jobby. Got a bit of a knackered positive stop, but it works well for proper demolition or gouging/chasing. That was a bargain purchase- because of 110V site rules, it wasn't wanted by builders so I picked it up dirt cheap. |
Drilling problems into concrete
On 16 May, 17:38, Grimly Curmudgeon
wrote: We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember JimK saying something like: horses for courses shurely? My ancient cheapo heavy SDS is only really called out for biggish/ roughish drilling jobs - say 10mm up, or chiselling out bigger holes,,breaking small amounts of concrete etc... anything smaller - cordless or mains ordinary hammer drills (equally cheapo) The cheap ones are OK if you don't mind the weight. Indeed a mate has a lightweight Dewalt SDS mains drill and I had a go with it whilst helping him on a job - TBH I thought it was sh1te compared to my big cheapo one or was I missing something? Yes. You're missing the thrilling experience of having to heft the weighty cheapy one around all day long. Half or a third of the weight makes a helluva difference to usage. IMHO if a job *needs* SDS you will usually want some weight behind it. Not so. My old Bosch green SDS is about ten years old now (only needed a set of brushes two years ago) and is still packing the same punch it did when new. It happily chomps away at 10" thick walls with 25mm drill or chisel. Of course, for the big stuff I have an Bosch SDS-Max jobby. Got a bit of a knackered positive stop, but it works well for proper demolition or gouging/chasing. That was a bargain purchase- because of 110V site rules, it wasn't wanted by builders so I picked it up dirt cheap. you forgot the "IMHO" but I'll let you off if you promise to use it in future.... JimK |
Drilling problems into concrete
In article ,
John Rumm wrote: IMHO if a job *needs* SDS you will usually want some weight behind it. Completely contrary to my experience it seems. My 2kg ish Makita will sale through drilling jobs a normal drill would not touch, and yet needs practically no additional weight behind it at all. The trick with effective SDS drilling being to keep just enough force on the drill to enable the machine to "float" on the hammer action. Same here. My lightweight DeWalt sails through concrete or engineering bricks etc with little pressure. Of course you do need to keep the bits reasonably clean and greased - if they can't move easily, the percussion won't be so effective. -- *Never slap a man who's chewing tobacco * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
Drilling problems into concrete
In article ,
tony sayer wrote: Don't go and buy a cheapie, fork out a few quid extra for something better.. Indeed - but don't worry too much about spending on decent bits for it. I've a mix of decent bits and cheap bits (right down to a few market stall jobs). Can't say I see any real difference tbh. They've all taken plenty of abuse :) Darren |
Drilling problems into concrete
"NT" wrote in message ... On May 15, 11:08 pm, "spamlet" wrote: "Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message . uk... on 15/05/2010, spamlet supposed : Another question arises though (in my thinking about those very hard but rather thin panels in my garage): is an SDS going to run the risk of cracking concrete rather than drilling it? Why do there seem to be no thin diamond drill bits for these hard but delicate jobs? You would need to be very gentle with an SDS on a panel garage. Thought so: back to hanging things from bamboo threaded through the spare bolt holes then! S You can get mortar raking bits for angle grinders that can be used like a short drill bit. Theyre abrasive coated, TC IIRC, so one ought to do the job if you take care not to let it wander sideways. I've drilled asbestos panels using a no-hammer drill years ago, it was slow but did work. I've a feeling it was done with a twist drill, not a masonry bit. NT Good idea. I'll keep an eye out for some. Won't be drilling any asbestos though! (Mind you it's amazing when I recall how as kids we used to 'help' dad by rolling up 'sausages' from his tin of lovely fluffy Rawlplug asbestos!) Cheers, S |
Drilling problems into concrete
Dave Plowman (News) used his keyboard to write :
Of course you do need to keep the bits reasonably clean and greased - if they can't move easily, the percussion won't be so effective. When I first used SDS, I did wonder what the small pot of grease was for. It seemed counter-intuitive that it was for the bit - where it would attract all of the grit. I agree with the comments about pressure on the drill. You have to push with just the right pressure, to get best performance. Not too hard, not too gentle. The right pressure to get maximum bounce on the tip. -- Regards, Harry (M1BYT) (L) http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk |
Drilling problems into concrete
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember JimK saying something like: you forgot the "IMHO" but I'll let you off if you promise to use it in future.... My opinion ain't humble. |
Drilling problems into concrete
On 16 May, 19:17, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article , John Rumm wrote: IMHO if a job *needs* SDS you will usually want some weight behind it. Completely contrary to my experience it seems. My 2kg ish Makita will sale through drilling jobs a normal drill would not touch, and yet needs practically no additional weight behind it at all. The trick with effective SDS drilling being to keep just enough force on the drill to enable the machine to "float" on the hammer action. Same here. My lightweight DeWalt sails through concrete or engineering bricks etc with little pressure. Of course you do need to keep the bits reasonably clean and greased - if they can't move easily, the percussion won't be so effective. odd... given that they work by a weight banging on the end of a turning drill bit, I would expect a heavier machine to perform better (larger weight & equal & opposite forces etc) - this "light pressure" and "floating" technique - is that, I wonder, because with the lighter ones, even when you lean on 'em, won't drill any faster?? The one i tried just seemed to "rattle" like a normal hammer - I had to double check that it was SDS. Ultimately I spose if OP is dragging it round all day a lighter one could be advantageous.... cheers JimK |
Drilling problems into concrete
On 17 May, 04:39, Grimly Curmudgeon
wrote: We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember JimK saying something like: you forgot the "IMHO" but I'll let you off if you promise to use it in future.... My opinion ain't humble. mmmm |
Drilling problems into concrete
In article
, JimK wrote: Same here. My lightweight DeWalt sails through concrete or engineering bricks etc with little pressure. Of course you do need to keep the bits reasonably clean and greased - if they can't move easily, the percussion won't be so effective. odd... given that they work by a weight banging on the end of a turning drill bit, I would expect a heavier machine to perform better (larger weight & equal & opposite forces etc) - this "light pressure" and "floating" technique - is that, I wonder, because with the lighter ones, even when you lean on 'em, won't drill any faster?? Sort of the same as an impact screw driver - virtually no torque reaction fed back to the user. The one i tried just seemed to "rattle" like a normal hammer - I had to double check that it was SDS. You have to apply enough pressure so the mechanism comes in contact with the bit. Hence my note about keeping it clean and greased. Ultimately I spose if OP is dragging it round all day a lighter one could be advantageous.... If you've ever used one for wall chasing you'll soon appreciate the lighter model. Regardless of how strong you are. Or think you are. ;-) Pretty well everyone with experience of using them says so. But feel free to find out for yourself. -- *Would a fly without wings be called a walk? Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
Drilling problems into concrete
On 17 May, 10:25, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article , JimK wrote: Same here. My lightweight DeWalt sails through concrete or engineering bricks etc with little pressure. Of course you do need to keep the bits reasonably clean and greased - if they can't move easily, the percussion won't be so effective. odd... given that they work by a weight banging on the end of a turning drill bit, I would expect a heavier machine to perform better (larger weight & equal & opposite forces etc) - this "light pressure" and "floating" technique - is that, I wonder, because with the lighter ones, even when you lean on 'em, won't drill any faster?? Sort of the same as an impact screw driver - virtually no torque reaction fed back to the user. The one i tried just seemed to "rattle" like a normal hammer - I had to double check that it was SDS. You have to apply enough pressure so the mechanism comes in contact with the bit. Hence my note about keeping it clean and greased. Ultimately I spose if OP is dragging it round all day a lighter one could be advantageous.... If you've ever used one for wall chasing you'll soon appreciate the lighter model. Regardless of how strong you are. Or think you are. ;-) Pretty well everyone with experience of using them says so. But feel free to find out for yourself. But let's not make the mistake of stifling discussions - so that we can learn... Cheers JimK |
Drilling problems into concrete
In article
, JimK wrote: If you've ever used one for wall chasing you'll soon appreciate the lighter model. Regardless of how strong you are. Or think you are. ;-) Pretty well everyone with experience of using them says so. But feel free to find out for yourself. But let's not make the mistake of stifling discussions - so that we can learn... Not my intention - just passing on experience. A heavy (and cheaper) model might make more sense if mainly used for breaking up concrete paths, etc. -- *Acupuncture is a jab well done* Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
Drilling problems into concrete
On 17 May, 10:58, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article , JimK wrote: If you've ever used one for wall chasing you'll soon appreciate the lighter model. Regardless of how strong you are. Or think you are. ;-) Pretty well everyone with experience of using them says so. But feel free to find out for yourself. But let's not make the mistake of stifling discussions - so that we can learn... Not my intention - just passing on experience. A heavy (and cheaper) model might make more sense if mainly used for breaking up concrete paths, etc. understood ;) Cheers JimK |
Drilling problems into concrete
on 17/05/2010, JimK supposed :
odd... given that they work by a weight banging on the end of a turning drill bit, I would expect a heavier machine to perform better (larger weight & equal & opposite forces etc) - this "light pressure" and "floating" technique - is that, I wonder, because with the lighter ones, even when you lean on 'em, won't drill any faster?? Put no pressure on and there is no hammer, put too much pressure on and there is some hammer, but the effect peaks at a point between the two extremes. -- Regards, Harry (M1BYT) (L) http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk |
Drilling problems into concrete
In article ,
John Rumm writes: I find you can usually feel the hammer oscillation if you run the drill in free space - especially at low speeds. My metabo doesn't drive the hammer mechanism unless you put a small pressure on the bit. Likewise, it disengages the hammer mechanism when there's no pressure on the bit, except the disengaging is now getting rather sluggish and it now carries on operating the hammer for about a second after you stop pressing on the drill, whereas it used to be instant. -- Andrew Gabriel [email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup] |
Drilling problems into concrete
I bought the drill from LIDL
It doesn;t seem to have a clutch - oh well.. I tried it out on a brick and it worked fine - only problem is that the drill bit seems to be stuck! Any ideas on how to get it out? I am pulling the release down and pulling the drill bit forward but am having no luck. |
Drilling problems into concrete
On 18 May, 21:53, mo wrote:
I bought the drill from LIDL It doesn;t seem to have a clutch - oh well.. I tried it out on a brick and it worked fine - only problem is that the drill bit seems to be stuck! Any ideas on how to get it out? I am pulling the release down and pulling the drill bit forward but am having no luck. mmm there were references earlier to "twist and lock" (tho my cheapo doesn;t do that) - do the destructions indicate whether the bits need twisting as part of the insert/release procedure? Cheers JimK |
Drilling problems into concrete
JimK wrote in
: On 18 May, 21:53, mo wrote: I bought the drill from LIDL It doesn;t seem to have a clutch - oh well.. I tried it out on a brick and it worked fine - only problem is that the drill bit seems to be stuck! Any ideas on how to get it out? I am pulling the release down and pulling the drill bit forward but am having no luck. mmm there were references earlier to "twist and lock" (tho my cheapo doesn;t do that) - do the destructions indicate whether the bits need twisting as part of the insert/release procedure? Cheers JimK I think you twist it when you put it in I tried both ways anyway Even tried pulling it out with a pair of pliers but tis proper jammed |
Drilling problems into concrete
On 18 May, 22:01, mo wrote:
JimK wrote : On 18 May, 21:53, mo wrote: I bought the drill from LIDL It doesn;t seem to have a clutch - oh well.. I tried it out on a brick and it worked fine - only problem is that the drill bit seems to be stuck! Any ideas on how to get it out? I am pulling the release down and pulling the drill bit forward but am having no luck. mmm there were references earlier to "twist and lock" (tho my cheapo doesn;t do that) - do the destructions indicate whether the bits need twisting as part of the insert/release procedure? Cheers JimK I think you twist it when you put it in I tried both ways anyway Even tried pulling it out with a pair of pliers but tis proper jammed mmm quick trip back to LIDL for another (tested working) / refund? - unless the stuck bit happens tobe the correct size for the concrete post drilling job?.....then would seem a shame to waste the opportunity for another test or two to confirm it's shagged.......;) Cheers JimK |
Drilling problems into concrete
JimK wrote in
mmm quick trip back to LIDL for another (tested working) / refund? - unless the stuck bit happens tobe the correct size for the concrete post drilling job?.....then would seem a shame to waste the opportunity for another test or two to confirm it's shagged.......;) Cheers JimK I was thinking that, lol unfortunatley I need a 14 to do what I want to do and I was testing it out with an 8 that came supplied. Shame, I wanted to see what the chisel would do to the brick. |
Drilling problems into concrete
On 18 May, 22:13, mo wrote:
JimK wrote in mmm quick trip back to LIDL for another (tested working) / refund? - unless the stuck bit happens tobe the correct size for the concrete post drilling job?.....then would seem a shame to waste the opportunity for another test or two to confirm it's shagged.......;) Cheers JimK I was thinking that, lol unfortunatley I need a 14 to do what I want to do and I was testing it out with an 8 that came supplied. Shame, I wanted to see what the chisel would do to the brick. could do holes to 8mm then at least your 4/7ths the way there :) If you use masonry screws (no plugs) you may get away with an 8mm hole? I'm just doing some shelving in the workshop fixing battens to concrete block - drill 6mm hole and the masonry screws just cut their own thread in the concrete block when driven in (with cordless drill)...... Cheers JimK |
Drilling problems into concrete
"mo" wrote in message ... I bought the drill from LIDL It doesn;t seem to have a clutch - oh well.. I tried it out on a brick and it worked fine - only problem is that the drill bit seems to be stuck! Any ideas on how to get it out? I am pulling the release down and pulling the drill bit forward but am having no luck. You are not alone. From reading this I'd say, grease rather dry and now full of brick dust, does not encourage bit removal. A squirt of WD40 may dissolve the grease and let you pull out the bit. More ideas: http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en...=Google+Search S |
Drilling problems into concrete
It happens that mo formulated :
I bought the drill from LIDL It doesn;t seem to have a clutch - oh well.. I tried it out on a brick and it worked fine - only problem is that the drill bit seems to be stuck! Any ideas on how to get it out? I am pulling the release down and pulling the drill bit forward but am having no luck. Is the bit stuck in the hole you drilled in the wall, or the bit stuck in the drill? Try a firm grip on the drill and putting it in reverse for the first, so it winds its way out of the hole. For the second you need to pull the black plastic sleeve back away from the bit, to release it. -- Regards, Harry (M1BYT) (L) http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk |
Drilling problems into concrete
Harry Bloomfield wrote in
. uk: It happens that mo formulated : I bought the drill from LIDL It doesn;t seem to have a clutch - oh well.. I tried it out on a brick and it worked fine - only problem is that the drill bit seems to be stuck! Any ideas on how to get it out? I am pulling the release down and pulling the drill bit forward but am having no luck. Is the bit stuck in the hole you drilled in the wall, or the bit stuck in the drill? Try a firm grip on the drill and putting it in reverse for the first, so it winds its way out of the hole. For the second you need to pull the black plastic sleeve back away from the bit, to release it. It was the drill stuck in the holder and no matter what I tried would release it. Tried some WD40 to no avail. I took it back to LIDL and they gave me a refund as they didn't have any left. I'll have to go with my tail between my legs to my mate who told me 'you get what you pay for' from LIDL and I said they offered good value! I will probably just hire one unless a similarly good deal comes up soon. |
Drilling problems into concrete
In article , mo
scribeth thus Harry Bloomfield wrote in .uk: It happens that mo formulated : I bought the drill from LIDL It doesn;t seem to have a clutch - oh well.. I tried it out on a brick and it worked fine - only problem is that the drill bit seems to be stuck! Any ideas on how to get it out? I am pulling the release down and pulling the drill bit forward but am having no luck. Is the bit stuck in the hole you drilled in the wall, or the bit stuck in the drill? Try a firm grip on the drill and putting it in reverse for the first, so it winds its way out of the hole. For the second you need to pull the black plastic sleeve back away from the bit, to release it. It was the drill stuck in the holder and no matter what I tried would release it. Tried some WD40 to no avail. I took it back to LIDL and they gave me a refund as they didn't have any left. I'll have to go with my tail between my legs to my mate who told me 'you get what you pay for' from LIDL and I said they offered good value! I will probably just hire one unless a similarly good deal comes up soon. Just fork out for a good one. Had a mate the other day couldn't believe how the Makita bored a 20 mm hole thru 1 foot thick reinforced concrete the other day in around half a minute:)... -- Tony Sayer |
Drilling problems into concrete
I decided I was going to hire one out.
My lcoal place does it at £10 a night BUT you have to buy your own bits. Which would have set me back £10 for the ones I wanted at Toolstation. I went down to toolstation and saw they also had a deal similar to LIDL - an SDS drill with chisel and some bits. It was a 5kg and a lot beefier but I thought I might as well because it seemed good value. Got home and used it. It sailed through the concrete post BUT I did feel the dreaded 'drill bit stuck in the wall' thing almost straight away - almost took me off the ladder AND twisted my wrist slightly. I have another hole to do tomorrow (couldn't be bothered to risk it tonight) but I might try and take it back on safety grounds. Surely they shouldn;t be selling such items to DIYers ESPECIALLY when the booklet makes no mention that it could happen. |
Drilling problems into concrete
mo wrote:
I decided I was going to hire one out. My lcoal place does it at £10 a night BUT you have to buy your own bits. Which would have set me back £10 for the ones I wanted at Toolstation. I went down to toolstation and saw they also had a deal similar to LIDL - an SDS drill with chisel and some bits. It was a 5kg and a lot beefier but I thought I might as well because it seemed good value. Got home and used it. It sailed through the concrete post BUT I did feel the dreaded 'drill bit stuck in the wall' thing almost straight away - almost took me off the ladder AND twisted my wrist slightly. I have another hole to do tomorrow (couldn't be bothered to risk it tonight) but I might try and take it back on safety grounds. Surely they shouldn;t be selling such items to DIYers ESPECIALLY when the booklet makes no mention that it could happen. perhaps have it on hammer-only so there's no twisting? And start with the thinnest dripp bit you've got. [g] |
Drilling problems into concrete
"mo" wrote in message .. . I decided I was going to hire one out. My lcoal place does it at £10 a night BUT you have to buy your own bits. Which would have set me back £10 for the ones I wanted at Toolstation. I went down to toolstation and saw they also had a deal similar to LIDL - an SDS drill with chisel and some bits. It was a 5kg and a lot beefier but I thought I might as well because it seemed good value. Got home and used it. It sailed through the concrete post BUT I did feel the dreaded 'drill bit stuck in the wall' thing almost straight away - almost took me off the ladder AND twisted my wrist slightly. I have another hole to do tomorrow (couldn't be bothered to risk it tonight) but I might try and take it back on safety grounds. Surely they shouldn;t be selling such items to DIYers ESPECIALLY when the booklet makes no mention that it could happen. Poor Mo, I think that washing will have dried (or rotted!) on its own by now! ;-) S |
Drilling problems into concrete
"spamlet" wrote in
: Poor Mo, I think that washing will have dried (or rotted!) on its own by now! ;-) S we had a temp line up! I should hopefully be able to play around with my pulleys tom - undecided on what system to use! In reply to the other poster. I started off with a 10, then 12 and then a 14. It was on the 14 that it jammed. |
Drilling problems into concrete
"mo" wrote in message .. . "spamlet" wrote in : Poor Mo, I think that washing will have dried (or rotted!) on its own by now! ;-) S we had a temp line up! I should hopefully be able to play around with my pulleys tom - undecided on what system to use! In reply to the other poster. I started off with a 10, then 12 and then a 14. It was on the 14 that it jammed. Hope you didn't lose all the pulley threads like I did! S |
Drilling problems into concrete
In article ,
mo wrote: In reply to the other poster. I started off with a 10, then 12 and then a 14. It was on the 14 that it jammed. Don't bother with the smaller ones, go straight for the 14mm. It's much less likely to jam then IME. Darren |
Drilling problems into concrete
george [dicegeorge] wrote:
mo wrote: I decided I was going to hire one out. My lcoal place does it at £10 a night BUT you have to buy your own bits. Which would have set me back £10 for the ones I wanted at Toolstation. I went down to toolstation and saw they also had a deal similar to LIDL - an SDS drill with chisel and some bits. It was a 5kg and a lot beefier but I thought I might as well because it seemed good value. Got home and used it. It sailed through the concrete post BUT I did feel the dreaded 'drill bit stuck in the wall' thing almost straight away - almost took me off the ladder AND twisted my wrist slightly. I have another hole to do tomorrow (couldn't be bothered to risk it tonight) but I might try and take it back on safety grounds. Surely they shouldn;t be selling such items to DIYers ESPECIALLY when the booklet makes no mention that it could happen. perhaps have it on hammer-only so there's no twisting? And start with the thinnest dripp bit you've got. [g] I was wrong about starting with smaller bits like in metal or wood, the experts say go straight in with the bigger one. Even with metal and Wood I dont go through every size of drill bit, but get quite a bit bigger with every new drill bit am I wrong in this too? [g] |
Drilling problems into concrete
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember mo saying something like: I have another hole to do tomorrow (couldn't be bothered to risk it tonight) but I might try and take it back on safety grounds. Surely they shouldn;t be selling such items to DIYers ESPECIALLY when the booklet makes no mention that it could happen. Oh I dunno. Perhaps they expect the users to have a bit of common sense? |
Drilling problems into concrete
Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember mo saying something like: I have another hole to do tomorrow (couldn't be bothered to risk it tonight) but I might try and take it back on safety grounds. Surely they shouldn;t be selling such items to DIYers ESPECIALLY when the booklet makes no mention that it could happen. Oh I dunno. Perhaps they expect the users to have a bit of common sense? This is the sort of common sense that comes from experience. Even people with a physics degree and full theoretical knowledge of equal and opposite forces could be surprised by a drill twisting them! [g] |
Drilling problems into concrete
Grimly Curmudgeon wrote in
: We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember mo saying something like: I have another hole to do tomorrow (couldn't be bothered to risk it tonight) but I might try and take it back on safety grounds. Surely they shouldn;t be selling such items to DIYers ESPECIALLY when the booklet makes no mention that it could happen. Oh I dunno. Perhaps they expect the users to have a bit of common sense? why would the average person expect a drill to suddenly start spinning around on the wall on them? |
Drilling problems into concrete
In article ,
Elder wrote: In article 6d3af10d-5031-4a38-8e41-1e7c320449f2 @c11g2000vbe.googlegroups.com, says... Yup - IMHO Screwfix not the place anymore for cheapo/introductory tools for DIY...they could only offer me a "titan" 9"angle grinder for £60 recently - next door at (gasp) Argos a perfectly-adequate-for-my- needs-cheapo was £35 with 14 days no quibble return (and some form of 2year guarantee I expect will be not worth bothering with). I bought a challenge branded angle grinder, 1000watt hammer drill and jigsaw from Argos about 8 years ago. All still going very well. Only used occasionally, but used hard when used. IMHO, the best value at the budget end comes from Lidl. You have to keep an eye out for offers, though - they don't keep them in stock. I've got:- A 9" angle grinder. Electric stapler. Random orbit sander Planer Cordless Hobby drill ( much bigger than a Dremel) All work just fine. Although I only use them for occasional DIY. But I've bought things from the likes of B&D which aren't even up to that. ;-) -- *Those who get too big for their britches will be exposed in the end* Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
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