I have one of these boilers and it's fine - apart from being such a fiddle
to change settings. Partially my fault as it's mounted near the floor in
the airing cupboard in the bathroom, and the programmer is at the bottom.
And because it's LCD you have to get on axis to read it. And I'm getting
far too old to lie on the floor to read a tiny screen, handbook, and push
awkward buttons.

I have what is effectively a zone controller in the kitchen in a sensible
place which allows me to switch to water only or standby etc if going away
- but not to access everything the main controller does. There are no
zones in the house - it's all one. So you can't control the house
temperature from it.

The main controller contains the main microprocessor and simply plugs
into a motherboard via (IIRC) an eight pin connector where the power
relays etc are. And dimension wise is identical to the zone one, so would
fit its housing.

What I would like to do is dispense with the zone one and extend the
connection from the motherboard and fit the main programmer in the
kitchen. Viessmann don't supply a cable for this - but I reckon I could
make up a ribbon one quite easily, as the plugs and sockets are standard
pitch. The cable length would be about 2 metres. I doubt I'd do any damage
by trying this - but what would be the chances of it working?

--
*If at first you don't succeed, try management *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
I have one of these boilers and it's fine - apart from being such a fiddle
to change settings. Partially my fault as it's mounted near the floor in
the airing cupboard in the bathroom, and the programmer is at the bottom.
And because it's LCD you have to get on axis to read it. And I'm getting
far too old to lie on the floor to read a tiny screen, handbook, and push
awkward buttons.

I have what is effectively a zone controller in the kitchen in a sensible
place which allows me to switch to water only or standby etc if going away
- but not to access everything the main controller does. There are no
zones in the house - it's all one. So you can't control the house
temperature from it.

The main controller contains the main microprocessor and simply plugs
into a motherboard via (IIRC) an eight pin connector where the power
relays etc are. And dimension wise is identical to the zone one, so would
fit its housing.

What I would like to do is dispense with the zone one and extend the
connection from the motherboard and fit the main programmer in the
kitchen. Viessmann don't supply a cable for this - but I reckon I could
make up a ribbon one quite easily, as the plugs and sockets are standard
pitch. The cable length would be about 2 metres. I doubt I'd do any damage
by trying this - but what would be the chances of it working?

--
*If at first you don't succeed, try management *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Sorry can't answer your questiuon but I've been looking at one of these to
replace my old (relatively) inefficient Potterton Prima 80F.

IIRC the flow and return are 22mm and come from the bottom. Is this
correct?

Is there any elegant way for the pipes to exit upwards? Not a showstopper
but it won't be as elegant as it could be in my situation.

Would you buy one again?

In article ,
Vortex4 wrote:
Sorry can't answer your questiuon but I've been looking at one of these
to replace my old (relatively) inefficient Potterton Prima 80F.

IIRC the flow and return are 22mm and come from the bottom. Is this
correct?

Yes. All the pipework is at the bottom.

Is there any elegant way for the pipes to exit upwards? Not a
showstopper but it won't be as elegant as it could be in my situation.

I'd say it's impossible. The main 'guts' have a galvanised steel box round
them with the pump and diverter valve below along with the electronics -
one reason I'd guess to reduce noise. It's pretty quiet. So you'd have to
make holes in that - and there's not much clearance to get pipes past the
heat exchanger and pressure vessel.

Would you buy one again?

Yes. I installed it myself and the tech department were very helpful (I'm
just a DIYer). I've got the weather compensated version and the
instructions for setting that up are a nightmare - so you need to talk to
a human. ;-) It's beautifully made mechanically. The electronics etc are
rather cheap looking plastic which is a bit of a contrast - but I've no
reason to doubt their reliability. I had a problem with it cutting out at
random after 18 months or so (a reset always got it going) and they
reckoned it was down to the software and fitted a new programmer free.
Since then it's been fine.

--
* I like you. You remind me of when I was young and stupid

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Would you buy one again?

Yes. I installed it myself and the tech department were very helpful (I'm
just a DIYer). I've got the weather compensated version and the
instructions for setting that up are a nightmare - so you need to talk to
a human. ;-) It's beautifully made mechanically. The electronics etc are
rather cheap looking plastic which is a bit of a contrast - but I've no
reason to doubt their reliability. I had a problem with it cutting out at
random after 18 months or so (a reset always got it going) and they
reckoned it was down to the software and fitted a new programmer free.
Since then it's been fine.

--
* I like you. You remind me of when I was young and stupid

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Thanks,

I've looking at the Vitodens 200 on and off for months

I have a thermal store I installed over Christmas so the Weather
compensation technology is unnecessary.

Next project is to install some solar collectors for the store, then change
the boiler in the spring/summer in a sunny period when hopefully continuity
of HW is assured (and heating is unnecessary)!

Looking at it the downward piping is not so much of an issue, and anyhow it
will all be out of sight.

Thanks again,


david

In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
Vortex4 wrote:

Is there any elegant way for the pipes to exit upwards? Not a
showstopper but it won't be as elegant as it could be in my situation.

IIRC there is the option of a standoff frame for these. That mounts on
the wall behind the boiler and allows space for the pipes to run up
behind it, at the expense of it sticking out from the wall a bit further.

You'd still need some pretty tight bends to reverse the direction of the
pipes without them showing so I'd only do this as a last resort.

--
*Remember not to forget that which you do not need to know.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.