Found time to dowel joint (Joint Genie Pro) & biscuit joint (Screwfix
cheapy) some cupboards in PAR Oak with white polypropylene back
panels.

For the cupboards I notice the oak is cupped slightly - enough that it
will need clamping as the glue sets. For the end panels I will also
need some form of clamping. The widest cupboard needs an 800mm span.

Is a 36" sash clamp the right tool?
There is Ebay 190040939713 (alloy) & Ebay 190040939346 (T-bar) for £20
& £23/pair.

On 23/01/10 22:02, js.b1 wrote:
Found time to dowel joint (Joint Genie Pro)& biscuit joint (Screwfix
cheapy) some cupboards in PAR Oak with white polypropylene back
panels.

For the cupboards I notice the oak is cupped slightly - enough that it
will need clamping as the glue sets. For the end panels I will also
need some form of clamping. The widest cupboard needs an 800mm span.

Is a 36" sash clamp the right tool?
There is Ebay 190040939713 (alloy)& Ebay 190040939346 (T-bar) for £20
& £23/pair.

There's a bodge that I was taught, which is to tie a piece of stout
string around the workpiece then tighten it by twisting a screwdriver
through a loop of it. It's a lot cheaper than buying a sash-cramp.

--
Bernard Peek

js.b1 wrote:
Found time to dowel joint (Joint Genie Pro) & biscuit joint (Screwfix
cheapy) some cupboards in PAR Oak with white polypropylene back
panels.

For the cupboards I notice the oak is cupped slightly - enough that it
will need clamping as the glue sets. For the end panels I will also
need some form of clamping. The widest cupboard needs an 800mm span.

Is a 36" sash clamp the right tool?
There is Ebay 190040939713 (alloy) & Ebay 190040939346 (T-bar) for £20
& £23/pair.

Sash cramps are the ones to use - and if you're trying to keep the boards
flat, use cramps both top and bottom surfaces.

Note though that this will not straight individual boards that are 'cupped'
before cramping begins - only the whole mass.

To straighten the boards, simply cramp the lot together and then use either
a planer (preferably with a thicknesser) or use a hand plane (rather long
winded and tiresome) to finish off to the correct thickness.

And, to get the ultimate finish, use the old-fashioned steel scraper.

Cash

On Jan 23, 11:10*pm, "Cash"
wrote:
Sash cramps are the ones to use - and if you're trying to keep the boards
flat, use cramps both top and bottom surfaces.

Noted.

To straighten the boards, simply cramp the lot together and then use either
a planer (preferably with a thicknesser) or use a hand plane (rather long
winded and tiresome) to finish off to the correct thickness.
And, to get the ultimate finish, use the old-fashioned steel scraper.

Great, thanks for the replies.

Looks like Osmo Hardwax Oil for the finish (cupboards & end panels).

Bernard Peek wrote:
On 23/01/10 22:02, js.b1 wrote:
Found time to dowel joint (Joint Genie Pro)& biscuit joint (Screwfix
cheapy) some cupboards in PAR Oak with white polypropylene back
panels.

For the cupboards I notice the oak is cupped slightly - enough that
it will need clamping as the glue sets. For the end panels I will
also need some form of clamping. The widest cupboard needs an 800mm
span. Is a 36" sash clamp the right tool?
There is Ebay 190040939713 (alloy)& Ebay 190040939346 (T-bar) for
£20 & £23/pair.

There's a bodge that I was taught, which is to tie a piece of stout
string around the workpiece then tighten it by twisting a screwdriver
through a loop of it. It's a lot cheaper than buying a sash-cramp.

IIRC thats called a Spanish Windlass or something similar. Rachet strap
does the same thing & you can get a lot more tension.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Cash wrote:
js.b1 wrote:
Found time to dowel joint (Joint Genie Pro) & biscuit joint (Screwfix
cheapy) some cupboards in PAR Oak with white polypropylene back
panels.

For the cupboards I notice the oak is cupped slightly - enough that it
will need clamping as the glue sets. For the end panels I will also
need some form of clamping. The widest cupboard needs an 800mm span.

Is a 36" sash clamp the right tool?
There is Ebay 190040939713 (alloy) & Ebay 190040939346 (T-bar) for £20
& £23/pair.

Sash cramps are the ones to use - and if you're trying to keep the boards
flat, use cramps both top and bottom surfaces.

Note though that this will not straight individual boards that are 'cupped'
before cramping begins - only the whole mass.

To straighten the boards, simply cramp the lot together and then use either
a planer (preferably with a thicknesser) or use a hand plane (rather long
winded and tiresome) to finish off to the correct thickness.

And, to get the ultimate finish, use the old-fashioned steel scraper.

Cash


Or a small piece of 4mm glass. Every couple of years I get the glazier
to cut me 100 or so. I've used a few this winter for shaving swollen
doorsteps

On Jan 24, 11:49*am, Stuart Noble wrote:
Cash wrote:
js.b1 wrote:
Found time to dowel joint (Joint Genie Pro) & biscuit joint (Screwfix
cheapy) some cupboards in PAR Oak with white polypropylene back
panels.

For the cupboards I notice the oak is cupped slightly - enough that it
will need clamping as the glue sets. For the end panels I will also
need some form of clamping. The widest cupboard needs an 800mm span.

Is a 36" sash clamp the right tool?
There is Ebay 190040939713 (alloy) & Ebay 190040939346 (T-bar) for £20
& £23/pair.

Sash cramps are the ones to use - and if you're trying to keep the boards
flat, use cramps both top and bottom surfaces.

Note though that this will not straight individual boards that are 'cupped'
before cramping begins - only the whole mass.

To straighten the boards, simply cramp the lot together and then use either
a planer (preferably with a thicknesser) or use a hand plane (rather long
winded and tiresome) to finish off to the correct thickness.

And, to get the ultimate finish, use the old-fashioned steel scraper.

Cash

Or a small piece of 4mm glass. Every couple of years I get the glazier
to cut me 100 or so. I've used a few this winter for shaving swollen
doorsteps


How exactly do you use it?

NT

NT wrote:
On Jan 24, 11:49 am, Stuart Noble wrote:
Cash wrote:
js.b1 wrote:
Found time to dowel joint (Joint Genie Pro) & biscuit joint (Screwfix
cheapy) some cupboards in PAR Oak with white polypropylene back
panels.
For the cupboards I notice the oak is cupped slightly - enough that it
will need clamping as the glue sets. For the end panels I will also
need some form of clamping. The widest cupboard needs an 800mm span.
Is a 36" sash clamp the right tool?
There is Ebay 190040939713 (alloy) & Ebay 190040939346 (T-bar) for £20
& £23/pair.
Sash cramps are the ones to use - and if you're trying to keep the boards
flat, use cramps both top and bottom surfaces.
Note though that this will not straight individual boards that are 'cupped'
before cramping begins - only the whole mass.
To straighten the boards, simply cramp the lot together and then use either
a planer (preferably with a thicknesser) or use a hand plane (rather long
winded and tiresome) to finish off to the correct thickness.
And, to get the ultimate finish, use the old-fashioned steel scraper.
Cash
Or a small piece of 4mm glass. Every couple of years I get the glazier
to cut me 100 or so. I've used a few this winter for shaving swollen
doorsteps


How exactly do you use it?

NT

Just drag the edge towards you at an angle (70 degs?). The nice thing is
you have 8 sharp edges per piece if it's nicely cut. 4" x 2" is a good
size. Gloves advisable of course.