As we do very little catering these days, I'm thinking of a Sharp
R959SLMA or similar as a main oven (to replace the freestanding gas cooker).

http://www.johnlewis.com/230687714/Product.aspx

I'd like to build this into a tall oven housing but. with this being the
only appliance in there, I'm wondering whether I'll be left with odd
spaces for which there will be no doors or drawers available. If anyone
has done a similar thing, I'd be interested to know.
Sharp sell an inset grill for this purpose

http://www.sharp.co.uk/Microwave-bui...br99st&bklist=

but it appears to just create a ventilation space, which I'm reluctant
to pay £100 for.

Although this comes with a 13 amp plug, a quick calculation suggests I'd
need to upgrade the 2.5 ring main. Actually, thinking of all the usual
appliances that *could* be run at the same time (and that's without a
tumble dryer), we might be sailing a little close to the wind already.
My plan would be to have a cooker socket installed anyway in case the
microwave idea doesn't work out and we go for an electric oven. Would
the microwave have to be hard wired into that, or do they come with a 13
amp socket?

Any thoughts/gotchas appreciated.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Stuart Noble wrote:

As we do very little catering these days, I'm thinking of a Sharp
R959SLMA or similar as a main oven (to replace the freestanding gas
cooker).
http://www.johnlewis.com/230687714/Product.aspx

I'd like to build this into a tall oven housing but. with this being
the only appliance in there, I'm wondering whether I'll be left with
odd spaces for which there will be no doors or drawers available. If
anyone has done a similar thing, I'd be interested to know.
Sharp sell an inset grill for this purpose

http://www.sharp.co.uk/Microwave-bui...br99st&bklist=

but it appears to just create a ventilation space, which I'm reluctant
to pay £100 for.

Although this comes with a 13 amp plug, a quick calculation suggests
I'd need to upgrade the 2.5 ring main. Actually, thinking of all the
usual appliances that *could* be run at the same time (and that's
without a tumble dryer), we might be sailing a little close to the
wind already. My plan would be to have a cooker socket installed anyway in
case the
microwave idea doesn't work out and we go for an electric oven. Would
the microwave have to be hard wired into that, or do they come with a
13 amp socket?

Any thoughts/gotchas appreciated.

If the device is designed to be free-standing - where it would be naturally
ventillated - it may well need extra ventillation when it's built in.

Are you saying that it takes more than 13 amps? If so, the 13A fuse in the
plug may blow even if you give it a dedicated radial circuit with a 13A
socket at the end. FWIW, cooker control units invariably come with a 13A
outlet in addition to the terminals for hard-wiring a cooker - but it may
not do you any good!

If you're going to hard-wire it, and join the cables inside the tall unit,
you don't actually need a cooker control unit - just use a suitable in-line
junction box. When our new kitchen was installed recently, the (Bosch)
combi-microwave hadn't arrived by the time the electrician had finished, so
he just left the dedicated radial circuit terminated with one of these fancy
junction boxes which have spring-loaded push-in terminals - so I just had to
push the wires in when it finally arrived.
--
Cheers,
Roger
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monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

In article ,
Stuart Noble writes:
As we do very little catering these days, I'm thinking of a Sharp
R959SLMA or similar as a main oven (to replace the freestanding gas cooker).

http://www.johnlewis.com/230687714/Product.aspx

I've got what's probably an 8 year old equivalent Sharp model, and
it is very good. However, I wouldn't consider it as a replacement
for a main oven, because it's much more difficult to clean, not
having stay-clean or removable liners. I would worry about its longevity
if frequently used at 200C for long periods too, although I don't have
any evidence to back this up (mine has never gone wrong). It makes a
very good second oven though, and gets used as such when I'm doing a
large meal such as Christmas dinner for the extended family. I would
also say it's claimed microwave output is a bit optimistic, when
compared with other microwaves I've used, but that doesn't matter once
you've factored it in. That could just me my sample, rather than across
the ranges.

I'd like to build this into a tall oven housing but. with this being the
only appliance in there, I'm wondering whether I'll be left with odd
spaces for which there will be no doors or drawers available. If anyone
has done a similar thing, I'd be interested to know.
Sharp sell an inset grill for this purpose

http://www.sharp.co.uk/Microwave-bui...br99st&bklist=

but it appears to just create a ventilation space, which I'm reluctant
to pay £100 for.

Although this comes with a 13 amp plug, a quick calculation suggests I'd
need to upgrade the 2.5 ring main. Actually, thinking of all the usual
appliances that *could* be run at the same time (and that's without a
tumble dryer), we might be sailing a little close to the wind already.
My plan would be to have a cooker socket installed anyway in case the
microwave idea doesn't work out and we go for an electric oven. Would
the microwave have to be hard wired into that, or do they come with a 13
amp socket?

You can install a cooker circuit, and terminate with a 13A socket
outlet for the time being (might as well be unswitched, since you'll
have a cooker switch for it anyway). Use a deep back box though so
that it handles the thick cable well. I have a 32A cooker circuit,
terminating with a 13A socket, into which the spark ignitor on the
gas hob is currently connected. A bit overkill, but if I want to
switch to electic hob anytime, the circuit is there.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

If the device is designed to be free-standing - where it would be naturally
ventillated - it may well need extra ventillation when it's built in.

But then I can just leave the recommended gap without splashing out on a
stainless steel grill fascia

Are you saying that it takes more than 13 amps? If so, the 13A fuse in the
plug may blow even if you give it a dedicated radial circuit with a 13A
socket at the end. FWIW, cooker control units invariably come with a 13A
outlet in addition to the terminals for hard-wiring a cooker - but it may
not do you any good!

No, it's under 3kw, but add that to the washing machine, kettle, toaster
etc, all of which could be on at the same time, and the 2.5 ring main
could be overloaded I imagine.

If you're going to hard-wire it, and join the cables inside the tall unit,
you don't actually need a cooker control unit - just use a suitable in-line
junction box. When our new kitchen was installed recently, the (Bosch)
combi-microwave hadn't arrived by the time the electrician had finished, so
he just left the dedicated radial circuit terminated with one of these fancy
junction boxes which have spring-loaded push-in terminals - so I just had to
push the wires in when it finally arrived.

Andrew Gabriel wrote:

I've got what's probably an 8 year old equivalent Sharp model, and
it is very good. However, I wouldn't consider it as a replacement
for a main oven, because it's much more difficult to clean, not
having stay-clean or removable liners.

Yes, the cleaning issue seems to crop up a lot. I guess the grill
element at the top takes some punishment. I'll have to look into that

On Jan 8, 2:45*pm, Stuart Noble wrote:


No, it's under 3kw, but add that to the washing machine, kettle, toaster
etc, all of which could be on at the same time, and the 2.5 ring main
could be overloaded I imagine.

its normal to have that lot and a bit more on one ring circuit, and
more or less never a problem.
a) the 30/32A rating is continuous, peak current can be significantly
higher, and often is.
b) diversity means that all those loads dont draw 13A at once, even if
they're all running simultaneously.


Re a combi cooker, I'd suggest that separate oven and nuke are much
better, even for one person. But as you say, the oven can be just
desktop sized. The ideal I think is a combi plus a separate microwave-
only.


NT

On Jan 8, 10:21*am, Stuart Noble wrote:
As we do very little catering these days, I'm thinking of a Sharp
R959SLMA or similar as a main oven (to replace the freestanding gas cooker).

http://www.johnlewis.com/230687714/Product.aspx

I'd like to build this into a tall oven housing but. with this being the
only appliance in there, I'm wondering whether I'll be left with odd
spaces for which there will be no doors or drawers available. If anyone
has done a similar thing, I'd be interested to know.
Sharp sell an inset grill for this purpose

http://www.sharp.co.uk/Microwave-bui...Microwave-buil...

but it appears to just create a ventilation space, which I'm reluctant
to pay 100 for.

Although this comes with a 13 amp plug, a quick calculation suggests I'd
need to upgrade the 2.5 ring main. Actually, thinking of all the usual
appliances that *could* be run at the same time (and that's without a
tumble dryer), we might be sailing a little close to the wind already.
My plan would be to have a cooker socket installed anyway in case the
microwave idea doesn't work out and we go for an electric oven. Would
the microwave have to be hard wired into that, or do they come with a 13
amp socket?

Any thoughts/gotchas appreciated.

If your budget can stretch, I'd upgrade to a proper oven that
microwaves as well, rather than a microwave with an oven feature added
- something like
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/built-in-combi...#ht_500wt_1182

We used a De Dietrich one (DME399) as our only oven for a few years,
and it was great - even cooked a full roast goose dinner in it. They
are standard oven width too, and designed to be built in to an oven
housing.

A

wrote:
On Jan 8, 10:21 am, Stuart Noble wrote:
As we do very little catering these days, I'm thinking of a Sharp
R959SLMA or similar as a main oven (to replace the freestanding gas cooker).

http://www.johnlewis.com/230687714/Product.aspx
I'd like to build this into a tall oven housing but. with this being the
only appliance in there, I'm wondering whether I'll be left with odd
spaces for which there will be no doors or drawers available. If anyone
has done a similar thing, I'd be interested to know.
Sharp sell an inset grill for this purpose

http://www.sharp.co.uk/Microwave-bui...Microwave-buil...
but it appears to just create a ventilation space, which I'm reluctant
to pay 100 for.

Although this comes with a 13 amp plug, a quick calculation suggests I'd
need to upgrade the 2.5 ring main. Actually, thinking of all the usual
appliances that *could* be run at the same time (and that's without a
tumble dryer), we might be sailing a little close to the wind already.
My plan would be to have a cooker socket installed anyway in case the
microwave idea doesn't work out and we go for an electric oven. Would
the microwave have to be hard wired into that, or do they come with a 13
amp socket?

Any thoughts/gotchas appreciated.

If your budget can stretch, I'd upgrade to a proper oven that
microwaves as well, rather than a microwave with an oven feature added
- something like
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/built-in-combi...#ht_500wt_1182


Unwanted Xmas present? Neff? Which lorry did that fall off the back of I
wonder.

We used a De Dietrich one (DME399) as our only oven for a few years,
and it was great - even cooked a full roast goose dinner in it. They
are standard oven width too, and designed to be built in to an oven
housing.

A

Looks like they do a 5 year guarantee as well. If they pushed it to 10,
like Miele, I might be tempted