This is a follow-up to my question on Bowrenches.

1. Are 50mm cut flooring brads the appropriate length to nail 18mm
pitch pine boards to joists?

2. Where can I get these loose? Screwfix and Toolstation only seem to
sell them in strips for Paslodes, etc., and I'm not buying a nailer to
floor one room.

3. They are available loose on eBay (not my first choice), sold by
weight - how many 50mm brads in 250g? ;-)

Many thanks, if anyone has this information.

Cheers
Richard

"geraldthehamster" wrote in message
...
This is a follow-up to my question on Bowrenches.

1. Are 50mm cut flooring brads the appropriate length to nail 18mm
pitch pine boards to joists?

2. Where can I get these loose? Screwfix and Toolstation only seem to
sell them in strips for Paslodes, etc., and I'm not buying a nailer to
floor one room.

3. They are available loose on eBay (not my first choice), sold by
weight - how many 50mm brads in 250g? ;-)

Many thanks, if anyone has this information.

Just go to your local hardware store and buy them in the quantity U need FFS
!

On 4 Nov, 16:24, geraldthehamster wrote:
This is a follow-up to my question on Bowrenches.

1. Are 50mm cut flooring brads the appropriate length to nail 18mm
pitch pine boards to joists?

2. Where can I get these loose? Screwfix and Toolstation only seem to
sell them in strips for Paslodes, etc., and I'm not buying a nailer to
floor one room.

3. They are available loose on eBay (not my first choice), sold by
weight - how many 50mm brads in 250g? ;-)

Many thanks, if anyone has this information.

Cheers
Richard

Richard
2" brads will be fine. Remember to put them in about 3/4' in from each
side on, say, a 6" board ie with a decent amount of edge distance but
"close" to the edge. They can sometimes twist and so be careful to
hold the brad straight as you hammer it in. Check you are not in a
knot and if you are either pre-drill it (if you want the placing
right) to 5/8th the shanks long width or better still two holes close
to one another 9/10th the short width at the point of rest of the brad
or move the location inwards if there are no pipes under. Nail them
till they are just flush with the top so you do not leave any "half
crowns" in the floorboards (indentations of the 'ammer 'ead) and then
punch them all in with a nail punch about 2 mm. That way you will have
16mm of timber held and 32 holding in the joist which is exactly the
right ratio for nailing down. consider the merits of sound deadening
quilt (SDQ) laid between joist and boards if there is a ceiling below
Use decent floorboard cramps or if you do not have any use folding
sliding wedges. I strongly recommend leaving the boards for 6 weeks
in the warm conditions it will be to equilibrate and shrink if they
are new.
Chris

2" brads will be fine. Remember to put them in about 3/4' in from each
side on, say, a 6" board ie with a decent amount of edge distance but
"close" to the edge. They can sometimes twist and so be careful to
hold the brad straight as you hammer it in. Check you are not in a
knot and if you are either pre-drill it (if you want the placing
right) to 5/8th the shanks long width or better still two holes close
to one another 9/10th the short width at the point of rest of the brad
or move the location inwards if there are no pipes under. Nail them
till they are just flush with the top so you do not leave any "half
crowns" in the floorboards (indentations of the 'ammer 'ead) and then
punch them all in with a nail punch about 2 mm. That way you will have
16mm of timber held and 32 holding in the joist which is exactly the
right ratio for nailing down. consider the merits of sound deadening
quilt (SDQ) laid between joist and boards if there is a ceiling below
Use decent floorboard cramps or if you do not have any use folding
sliding wedges. I strongly recommend leaving the boards for 6 weeks
in the warm conditions it will be to equilibrate and shrink if they
are new.
Chris

All well and good on pine, but these boards are pitch pine. IME you
would have trouble sinking the heads of flooring brads in such a dense
material. Lost head nails might be easier

On Nov 4, 4:24*pm, geraldthehamster wrote:
This is a follow-up to my question on Bowrenches.

1. Are 50mm cut flooring brads the appropriate length to nail 18mm
pitch pine boards to joists?


I used 63mm and 7/8" pine boards (reclaimed). it went fine although I
did drill small pilot holes to avoid splitting the boards.

I bought the brads here www.tool-net.co.uk - much cheaper than eBay
packets of 250g.

Robert

On 5 Nov, 10:20, RobertL wrote:

I bought the brads herewww.tool-net.co.uk*- much cheaper than eBay
packets of 250g.

Thanks.

Richard

On 5 Nov, 08:38, Stuart Noble wrote:

All well and good on pine, but these boards are pitch pine. IME you
would have trouble sinking the heads of flooring brads in such a dense
material. Lost head nails might be easier- Hide quoted text -

It's an interesting point. I'll have to experiment, I think.

Cheers
Richard

On 5 Nov, 07:18, wrote:
2" brads will be fine. Remember to put them in about 3/4' in from each
side on, say, a 6" board ie with a decent amount of edge distance but
"close" to the edge. They can sometimes twist and so be careful to
hold the brad straight as you hammer it in. Check you are not in a
knot and if you are either pre-drill it (if you want the placing
right) to 5/8th the shanks long width or better still two holes close
to one another 9/10th the short width at the point of rest of the brad
or move the location inwards if there are no pipes under. *Nail them
till they are just flush with the top so you do not leave any "half
crowns" in the floorboards (indentations of the 'ammer 'ead) and then
punch them all in with a nail punch about 2 mm. That way you will have
16mm of timber held and 32 holding in the joist which is exactly the
right ratio for nailing down. consider the merits of sound deadening
quilt (SDQ) laid between joist and boards if there is a ceiling below
Use decent floorboard cramps or if you do not have any use folding
sliding wedges. *I strongly recommend leaving the boards for 6 weeks
in the warm conditions it will be to equilibrate and shrink if they
are new.

Thanks for your detailed reply :-) Do you think drilling pilot holes
increases the risk of splitting the timber? The idea, I thought, was
for the brad to punch its way through, rather than act as a wedge,
which is why the ends are blunt (and why one sometimes blunts a nail
when splitting is likely in other timber).

I was planning on leaving the boards up there for 3 weeks, in the hope
of moving into the bedroom by Xmas. Possibly that's not long enough.

Cheers
Richard

geraldthehamster wrote:
On 5 Nov, 07:18, wrote:
2" brads will be fine. Remember to put them in about 3/4' in from each
side on, say, a 6" board ie with a decent amount of edge distance but
"close" to the edge. They can sometimes twist and so be careful to
hold the brad straight as you hammer it in. Check you are not in a
knot and if you are either pre-drill it (if you want the placing
right) to 5/8th the shanks long width or better still two holes close
to one another 9/10th the short width at the point of rest of the brad
or move the location inwards if there are no pipes under. Nail them
till they are just flush with the top so you do not leave any "half
crowns" in the floorboards (indentations of the 'ammer 'ead) and then
punch them all in with a nail punch about 2 mm. That way you will have
16mm of timber held and 32 holding in the joist which is exactly the
right ratio for nailing down. consider the merits of sound deadening
quilt (SDQ) laid between joist and boards if there is a ceiling below
Use decent floorboard cramps or if you do not have any use folding
sliding wedges. I strongly recommend leaving the boards for 6 weeks
in the warm conditions it will be to equilibrate and shrink if they
are new.

Thanks for your detailed reply :-) Do you think drilling pilot holes
increases the risk of splitting the timber? The idea, I thought, was
for the brad to punch its way through, rather than act as a wedge,
which is why the ends are blunt (and why one sometimes blunts a nail
when splitting is likely in other timber).

I was planning on leaving the boards up there for 3 weeks, in the hope
of moving into the bedroom by Xmas. Possibly that's not long enough.

Cheers
Richard

You could move in without finally fixing the boards. I'd leave that till
the Spring after a winter of central heating

On Nov 5, 12:43*pm, Stuart Noble wrote:
geraldthehamster wrote:
On 5 Nov, 07:18, wrote:
2"bradswill be fine. Remember to put them in about 3/4' in from each
side on, say, a 6" board ie with a decent amount of edge distance but
"close" to the edge. They can sometimes twist and so be careful to
hold the brad straight as you hammer it in. Check you are not in a
knot and if you are either pre-drill it (if you want the placing
right) to 5/8th the shanks long width or better still two holes close
to one another 9/10th the short width at the point of rest of the brad
or move the location inwards if there are no pipes under. *Nail them
till they are just flush with the top so you do not leave any "half
crowns" in the floorboards (indentations of the 'ammer 'ead) and then
punch them all in with a nail punch about 2 mm. That way you will have
16mm of timber held and 32 holding in the joist which is exactly the
right ratio for nailing down. consider the merits of sound deadening
quilt (SDQ) laid between joist and boards if there is a ceiling below
Use decent floorboard cramps or if you do not have any use folding
sliding wedges. *I strongly recommend leaving the boards for 6 weeks
in the warm conditions it will be to equilibrate and shrink if they
are new.

Thanks for your detailed reply :-) Do you think drilling pilot holes
increases the risk of splitting the timber? The idea, I thought, was
for the brad to punch its way through, rather than act as a wedge,
which is why the ends are blunt (and why one sometimes blunts a nail
when splitting is likely in other timber).

I was planning on leaving the boards up there for 3 weeks, in the hope
of moving into the bedroom by Xmas. Possibly that's not long enough.

Cheers
Richard

You could move in without finally fixing the boards. I'd leave that till
the Spring after a winter of central heating- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I was considering that - possibly a few screws in every fourth board.

Cheers
Richard