Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
![]() |
|
UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Having failed to pay proper attention during earlier discussions I
wonder if someone can kindly highlight the conclusions? Early next week I hope to be laying polypipe under floor heating and will shortly thereafter be badgered by my builder for a decision on flooring so he can lay screed. I doubt there is sufficient space to use battens or plywood and yet match existing floor levels so gluing direct seems the obvious route. This also reduces the *insulation* effect of the flooring. Flooring seems to come in a huge range of thickness and a variety of substrate materials to say nothing of the fixing options! Entrance, hall and shower room are likely to be in 300 x 300mm ceramic tiles which, having measured some existing, are about 13mm thick: including fixing. I suppose minor variations can be taken care of at thresholds but is sub-15mm engineered wood going to do the job? What happens to expansion/contraction with glued fixing? Can you still get that very thin door matting to drop in a 13mm deep well? regards -- Tim Lamb |
#2
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Tim Lamb wrote:
Having failed to pay proper attention during earlier discussions I wonder if someone can kindly highlight the conclusions? Early next week I hope to be laying polypipe under floor heating and will shortly thereafter be badgered by my builder for a decision on flooring so he can lay screed. I doubt there is sufficient space to use battens or plywood and yet match existing floor levels so gluing direct seems the obvious route. This also reduces the *insulation* effect of the flooring. Flooring seems to come in a huge range of thickness and a variety of substrate materials to say nothing of the fixing options! Entrance, hall and shower room are likely to be in 300 x 300mm ceramic tiles which, having measured some existing, are about 13mm thick: including fixing. I suppose minor variations can be taken care of at thresholds but is sub-15mm engineered wood going to do the job? Yes, but do NOT glue it. Lay floating. What happens to expansion/contraction with glued fixing? It bubbles up/cracks the glue. Can you still get that very thin door matting to drop in a 13mm deep well? Not particularly, no. Do a deeper well in the screed. regards |
#3
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Tim Lamb wrote:
Can you still get that very thin door matting to drop in a 13mm deep well? yes, plenty available, including solid rubber, rubber matrix, carpet tile, jute-like mats, etc. The lighter types of mat can tend to curl slightly if thin, and ideally will want gluing down. Solid rubber behaves very well, if you're not looking for a scraping action. NT |
#4
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
In message
, NT writes Tim Lamb wrote: Can you still get that very thin door matting to drop in a 13mm deep well? yes, plenty available, including solid rubber, rubber matrix, carpet tile, jute-like mats, etc. The lighter types of mat can tend to curl slightly if thin, and ideally will want gluing down. Solid rubber behaves very well, if you're not looking for a scraping action. Good. We have the Jute-like mat. Still OK after 15 years of muddy wellies:-) regards -- Tim Lamb |
#5
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
In message , The Natural Philosopher
writes Tim Lamb wrote: Having failed to pay proper attention during earlier discussions I wonder if someone can kindly highlight the conclusions? Early next week I hope to be laying polypipe under floor heating and will shortly thereafter be badgered by my builder for a decision on flooring so he can lay screed. I doubt there is sufficient space to use battens or plywood and yet match existing floor levels so gluing direct seems the obvious route. This also reduces the *insulation* effect of the flooring. Flooring seems to come in a huge range of thickness and a variety of substrate materials to say nothing of the fixing options! Entrance, hall and shower room are likely to be in 300 x 300mm ceramic tiles which, having measured some existing, are about 13mm thick: including I suppose minor variations can be taken care of at thresholds but is sub-15mm engineered wood going to do the job? Yes, but do NOT glue it. Lay floating. Hmm... so it has to be a *click* version? What about the membrane they seem to insist on? What happens to expansion/contraction with glued fixing? It bubbles up/cracks the glue. Oh! Right. regards -- Tim Lamb |
#6
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , The Natural Philosopher writes Tim Lamb wrote: Having failed to pay proper attention during earlier discussions I wonder if someone can kindly highlight the conclusions? Early next week I hope to be laying polypipe under floor heating and will shortly thereafter be badgered by my builder for a decision on flooring so he can lay screed. I doubt there is sufficient space to use battens or plywood and yet match existing floor levels so gluing direct seems the obvious route. This also reduces the *insulation* effect of the flooring. Flooring seems to come in a huge range of thickness and a variety of substrate materials to say nothing of the fixing options! Entrance, hall and shower room are likely to be in 300 x 300mm ceramic tiles which, having measured some existing, are about 13mm thick: including I suppose minor variations can be taken care of at thresholds but is sub-15mm engineered wood going to do the job? Yes, but do NOT glue it. Lay floating. Hmm... so it has to be a *click* version? What about the membrane they seem to insist on? You will curse without it. Clack,clack, clack...:-) What happens to expansion/contraction with glued fixing? It bubbles up/cracks the glue. Oh! Right. regards |
#7
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Tim Lamb wibbled:
Hmm... so it has to be a *click* version? What about the membrane they seem to insist on? I used Tredair Boardwalk - seems successful. It's a 4mm dense underlay with acoustic reduction properties and an integral vapour barrier (foil top). Cheers Tim |
#8
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
In message , Tim S
writes Tim Lamb wibbled: Hmm... so it has to be a *click* version? What about the membrane they seem to insist on? I used Tredair Boardwalk - seems successful. It's a 4mm dense underlay with acoustic reduction properties and an integral vapour barrier (foil top). OK. Noted. So 15mm for Kahrs mid range plus 4mm underlay.... I'll ask the builders to allow for 20mm flooring in the main area. On line ceramic tile suppliers are rather coy about publishing tile thickness but the existing total 13mm so I may attempt a different screed height for the entrance and shower room. regards -- Tim Lamb |
#9
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Tim S writes Tim Lamb wibbled: Hmm... so it has to be a *click* version? What about the membrane they seem to insist on? I used Tredair Boardwalk - seems successful. It's a 4mm dense underlay with acoustic reduction properties and an integral vapour barrier (foil top). OK. Noted. So 15mm for Kahrs mid range plus 4mm underlay.... I'll ask the builders to allow for 20mm flooring in the main area. On line ceramic tile suppliers are rather coy about publishing tile thickness but the existing total 13mm so I may attempt a different screed height for the entrance and shower room. 4-6mm decent floor tiles. Add 3mm for cement over screed, and more like 6mm over wood. Its easy enough to spend more on tile cement and make the bed thicker ..in my case up to 20mm to allow for crap screeding. regards |
#10
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
In message , The Natural Philosopher
writes Tim Lamb wrote: In message , Tim S writes Tim Lamb wibbled: Hmm... so it has to be a *click* version? What about the membrane they seem to insist on? I used Tredair Boardwalk - seems successful. It's a 4mm dense underlay with acoustic reduction properties and an integral vapour barrier (foil top). OK. Noted. So 15mm for Kahrs mid range plus 4mm underlay.... I'll ask the builders to allow for 20mm flooring in the main area. On line ceramic tile suppliers are rather coy about publishing tile thickness but the existing total 13mm so I may attempt a different screed height for the entrance and shower room. 4-6mm decent floor tiles. Add 3mm for cement over screed, and more like 6mm over wood. Its easy enough to spend more on tile cement and make the bed thicker ..in my case up to 20mm to allow for crap screeding. er... ours are 300 x 300mm square and around 10mm thick. regards -- Tim Lamb |
#11
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Tim Lamb wibbled:
In message , Tim S writes Tim Lamb wibbled: Hmm... so it has to be a *click* version? What about the membrane they seem to insist on? I used Tredair Boardwalk - seems successful. It's a 4mm dense underlay with acoustic reduction properties and an integral vapour barrier (foil top). OK. Noted. So 15mm for Kahrs mid range plus 4mm underlay.... I'll ask the builders to allow for 20mm flooring in the main area. On line ceramic tile suppliers are rather coy about publishing tile thickness but the existing total 13mm so I may attempt a different screed height for the entrance and shower room. regards Sounds about right - I came up 35mm ish - but I also has 12.5mm mamrox and 3-4mm tile adhesive. Cheers Tim |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Engineered Wood Flooring | UK diy | |||
Engineered wood flooring - advice please | UK diy | |||
engineered or solid wood flooring | Home Repair | |||
Problem with Mannington Engineered Wood Flooring | Home Ownership | |||
Cryntel engineered wood flooring | Home Ownership |