Hi all

Quick q or two on the use and install of engineered wood flooring.
How does it stack up for use in a hall with two teenagers blasting through
on a regular basis?
Is it available in click form, or is it all clamped/glued?
Any links to recommended manufacturers, or those to avoid?
Where the floor goes "through" the door frame to a threshold on the far side
IYSWIM, what to do about gaps (and concealing them) between floor and door
frame - yes I know that architraves and skirting will have to be fitted
above top of floor.

TIA

Phil

TheScullster wrote:
Hi all

Quick q or two on the use and install of engineered wood flooring.
How does it stack up for use in a hall with two teenagers blasting through
on a regular basis?

Reasonably OK. Worst damage comes from dog claws, stiletto heels and
furniture.

Is it available in click form, or is it all clamped/glued?

It is available in click form.

Any links to recommended manufacturers, or those to avoid?

I used Kahrs. It worked as advertised.

Where the floor goes "through" the door frame to a threshold on the far side
IYSWIM, what to do about gaps (and concealing them) between floor and door
frame - yes I know that architraves and skirting will have to be fitted
above top of floor.

I used flexible mastic. Or a hardwood threshold.


TIA

Phil

In article ,
TheScullster wrote:
Quick q or two on the use and install of engineered wood flooring. How
does it stack up for use in a hall with two teenagers blasting through
on a regular basis?

Noisy.

--
*Why are a wise man and a wise guy opposites?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

The Natural Philosopher coughed up some electrons that declared:

TheScullster wrote:
Hi all

Quick q or two on the use and install of engineered wood flooring.
How does it stack up for use in a hall with two teenagers blasting
through on a regular basis?

Reasonably OK. Worst damage comes from dog claws, stiletto heels and
furniture.

Is it available in click form, or is it all clamped/glued?

It is available in click form.

Any links to recommended manufacturers, or those to avoid?

I used Kahrs. It worked as advertised.

Was that a click form or glue together? Oiled or laquered?

I'm looking to buy some asap, so am keen for recomendations.

The Kahrs I just found has a 0.5mm veneer - is that the same as yours? I
noticed that engineered flooring seems to be available with a wide range of
wearing surface thicknesses, going up to about 6mm.

I have to lay it floating on a solid floor (glue down is not an option,
neither is battening and nailing) - I'm tending towards an oiled finish to
make it more possible to touch up damage down the line without having to
resort to sanding and starting again with a new finish.


Cheers

Tim

"Tim S" wrote in message
...
The Natural Philosopher coughed up some electrons that declared:

TheScullster wrote:
Hi all

Quick q or two on the use and install of engineered wood flooring.
How does it stack up for use in a hall with two teenagers blasting
through on a regular basis?

Reasonably OK. Worst damage comes from dog claws, stiletto heels and
furniture.

Is it available in click form, or is it all clamped/glued?

It is available in click form.

Any links to recommended manufacturers, or those to avoid?

I used Kahrs. It worked as advertised.

Was that a click form or glue together? Oiled or laquered?

I'm looking to buy some asap, so am keen for recomendations.

The Kahrs I just found has a 0.5mm veneer - is that the same as yours? I
noticed that engineered flooring seems to be available with a wide range
of
wearing surface thicknesses, going up to about 6mm.

I have to lay it floating on a solid floor (glue down is not an option,
neither is battening and nailing) - I'm tending towards an oiled finish to
make it more possible to touch up damage down the line without having to
resort to sanding and starting again with a new finish.


I had Kahrs in the past (laid for me). It was click together and sealed not
oiled. Certainly it has to float to allow expansion. Ours was laid on fibre
underlay mats. There was no problem with physical damage and it looked great
(aside from a few pieces where plane pulls had been filled). Open fires are
a menace though as cinders make black scorch marks you can't eradicate.
Better to lay through doorways if possible. The surface was 6/7mm veneer
that would, if required, take 3 complete resands. I would have their stuff
again but inspect each panel and be prepared to reject a few.


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not

"Bob Mannix" wrote in message
...
"Tim S" wrote in message
...
The Natural Philosopher coughed up some electrons that declared:

TheScullster wrote:
Hi all

Quick q or two on the use and install of engineered wood flooring.
How does it stack up for use in a hall with two teenagers blasting
through on a regular basis?

Reasonably OK. Worst damage comes from dog claws, stiletto heels and
furniture.

Is it available in click form, or is it all clamped/glued?

It is available in click form.

Any links to recommended manufacturers, or those to avoid?

I used Kahrs. It worked as advertised.

Was that a click form or glue together? Oiled or laquered?

I'm looking to buy some asap, so am keen for recomendations.

The Kahrs I just found has a 0.5mm veneer - is that the same as yours? I
noticed that engineered flooring seems to be available with a wide range
of
wearing surface thicknesses, going up to about 6mm.

I have to lay it floating on a solid floor (glue down is not an option,
neither is battening and nailing) - I'm tending towards an oiled finish
to
make it more possible to touch up damage down the line without having to
resort to sanding and starting again with a new finish.


I had Kahrs in the past (laid for me). It was click together and sealed
not oiled. Certainly it has to float to allow expansion. Ours was laid on
fibre underlay mats. There was no problem with physical damage and it
looked great (aside from a few pieces where plane pulls had been filled).
Open fires are a menace though as cinders make black scorch marks you
can't eradicate. Better to lay through doorways if possible. The surface
was 6/7mm veneer that would, if required, take 3 complete resands. I would
have their stuff again but inspect each panel and be prepared to reject a
few.

Also very quiet compared with laminate flooring.

Bob Mannix coughed up some electrons that declared:


I had Kahrs in the past (laid for me). It was click together and sealed
not oiled. Certainly it has to float to allow expansion. Ours was laid on
fibre underlay mats. There was no problem with physical damage and it
looked great (aside from a few pieces where plane pulls had been filled).
Open fires are a menace though as cinders make black scorch marks you
can't eradicate. Better to lay through doorways if possible. The surface
was 6/7mm veneer that would, if required, take 3 complete resands. I would
have their stuff again but inspect each panel and be prepared to reject a
few.



Thanks Bob - that sounds very encouraging. I have two solutions to stated
problems, inherently:

My fire is going in a tiled room - so that avoids that problem

and - every door has a change from tiled to wood (eg hall will be tiled,
bedrooms only wood and kitchen and bathrooms tiled. I'm thinking about
having a solid timber threshold at each door as a visual feature, also that
will tend to mask slight differences in height that will be inevitable with
different floor types (though I'm also laying Marmox under all floors, so I
can use different thicknesses of that to get a 10mm tile to be roughly on a
level with a 15-20mm wood floor).

How do you find the sealing of yours is holding up to wear - if I may be so
bold - do you have young kids or animals? I have teh former so it's going
get a beating so the ability to touch up the finish is important.

Cheers

Tim

"Tim S" wrote in message
...
Bob Mannix coughed up some electrons that declared:


I had Kahrs in the past (laid for me). It was click together and sealed
not oiled. Certainly it has to float to allow expansion. Ours was laid on
fibre underlay mats. There was no problem with physical damage and it
looked great (aside from a few pieces where plane pulls had been filled).
Open fires are a menace though as cinders make black scorch marks you
can't eradicate. Better to lay through doorways if possible. The surface
was 6/7mm veneer that would, if required, take 3 complete resands. I
would
have their stuff again but inspect each panel and be prepared to reject a
few.



Thanks Bob - that sounds very encouraging. I have two solutions to stated
problems, inherently:

My fire is going in a tiled room - so that avoids that problem

and - every door has a change from tiled to wood (eg hall will be tiled,
bedrooms only wood and kitchen and bathrooms tiled. I'm thinking about
having a solid timber threshold at each door as a visual feature, also
that
will tend to mask slight differences in height that will be inevitable
with
different floor types (though I'm also laying Marmox under all floors, so
I
can use different thicknesses of that to get a 10mm tile to be roughly on
a
level with a 15-20mm wood floor).

How do you find the sealing of yours is holding up to wear - if I may be
so
bold - do you have young kids or animals? I have teh former so it's going
get a beating so the ability to touch up the finish is important.

Ah slight problem with that. No longer in that house. Laminate is either
perfect or is made sh*t by any damage. Engineered floor with a thick veneer
damages gracefully and generally unnoticed. It's more dropping heavy objects
than young kids (an iron isn't good). It is slippy in socks though, so there
is the danger of damagaing the kids! The standard door threshold is a strip
of hardwood. I do have one tip, if you are having painted skirting boards,
fit them new over the flooring. Either leave a small gap or you can make one
by pressing the underlay flat by leaning on the floor, amd slide lining
paper underneath. Paint down to the lining paper. When dry, break paint
joint to lining paper with a screwdriver and remove lining paper. Slightly
rough paint edge then can be "disappeared" by brushing with a toothbrush (or
similar) and it looks a treat.


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not

Tim S wrote:
The Natural Philosopher coughed up some electrons that declared:

TheScullster wrote:
Hi all

Quick q or two on the use and install of engineered wood flooring.
How does it stack up for use in a hall with two teenagers blasting
through on a regular basis?
Reasonably OK. Worst damage comes from dog claws, stiletto heels and
furniture.

Is it available in click form, or is it all clamped/glued?
It is available in click form.

Any links to recommended manufacturers, or those to avoid?
I used Kahrs. It worked as advertised.

Was that a click form or glue together? Oiled or laquered?

Click. Lacquered I think. Oil available.

I'm looking to buy some asap, so am keen for recomendations.

The Kahrs I just found has a 0.5mm veneer - is that the same as yours? I
noticed that engineered flooring seems to be available with a wide range of
wearing surface thicknesses, going up to about 6mm.

Not sure. I would have said more like 1.5mm

I have to lay it floating on a solid floor (glue down is not an option,
neither is battening and nailing) - I'm tending towards an oiled finish to
make it more possible to touch up damage down the line without having to
resort to sanding and starting again with a new finish.

Dont worry about damage. It adds to the look..



Cheers

Tim

Tim S wrote:
Bob Mannix coughed up some electrons that declared:


I had Kahrs in the past (laid for me). It was click together and sealed
not oiled. Certainly it has to float to allow expansion. Ours was laid on
fibre underlay mats. There was no problem with physical damage and it
looked great (aside from a few pieces where plane pulls had been filled).
Open fires are a menace though as cinders make black scorch marks you
can't eradicate. Better to lay through doorways if possible. The surface
was 6/7mm veneer that would, if required, take 3 complete resands. I would
have their stuff again but inspect each panel and be prepared to reject a
few.



Thanks Bob - that sounds very encouraging. I have two solutions to stated
problems, inherently:

My fire is going in a tiled room - so that avoids that problem

and - every door has a change from tiled to wood (eg hall will be tiled,
bedrooms only wood and kitchen and bathrooms tiled. I'm thinking about
having a solid timber threshold at each door as a visual feature, also that
will tend to mask slight differences in height that will be inevitable with
different floor types (though I'm also laying Marmox under all floors, so I
can use different thicknesses of that to get a 10mm tile to be roughly on a
level with a 15-20mm wood floor).

How do you find the sealing of yours is holding up to wear - if I may be so
bold - do you have young kids or animals? I have teh former so it's going
get a beating so the ability to touch up the finish is important.

Dog's get a lot of understeer and than rapid oversteer on it. Plenty of
scuff marks.

But don't look too bad - use a rug!

Worst damage is cat pee. Soaks in and goes black...


Cheers

Tim

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
TheScullster wrote:

Hi all

Quick q or two on the use and install of engineered wood flooring.
How does it stack up for use in a hall with two teenagers blasting
through on a regular basis?

Don't know about teenagers, but ours has stood up to several years hard
family use - including from my (now deceased) 90+ year-old father-in-law,
who was pretty clumsy, and also dribbled all over it. What it *doesn't* like
is having heavy furniture on castors wheeled over it - the castors leave
permanent marks.

Is it available in click form, or is it all clamped/glued?

It's available both in click form and with parallel tongues and grooves. The
latter definitely needs clamping and glueing. Click type is probably better
glued - although you don't always have to glue it.

Any links to recommended manufacturers, or those to avoid?

Khars and Junckers (sp?) seem to have reasonable reputations for the
click-type, but are quite expensive. I used some parallel-grooved wood which
I got from my local builder's merchants - made in Germany. I can't remember
the brand name - but it wouldn't help 'cos I recently wanted to buy some
more to match and couldn't find any!

Where the floor goes "through" the door frame to a threshold on the
far side IYSWIM, what to do about gaps (and concealing them) between
floor and door frame - yes I know that architraves and skirting will
have to be fitted above top of floor.

You need to undercut the doorframes [1] so that the boards slide in
underneath. Getting the boards in under these circumstances is far easier if
the tongues and grooves are parallel - so that you can just drift them
together horizontally. With click, the back edge normally has to be lifted
to engage the tongues, and then pressed down. You can't do this if there's a
door frame above it - so you have to fit this bit *first*.

[1] You can do this with a flexible hand saw, using a bit of scrap board and
underlay as a guide to get the height right. Alternatively, you can do it
with a Fein Multimaster (or equivalent) or even (apparently - though I
haven't tried) with a biscuit cutter.
--
Cheers,
Roger
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