Hi

I have a few jobs around the garden which will require a saw - wondering if
it is worth investing (not much) in one so I don't have to pay for a hire.

I understand circular saws are generally aimed at cutting wood, but you can
then buy blades to cut concrete?

Do the machines/blades come in different sizes I guess? Is a circular saw
the best way to cut through concrete?

mo wrote:

I have a few jobs around the garden which will require a saw - wondering
if it is worth investing (not much) in one so I don't have to pay for a
hire.

I understand circular saws are generally aimed at cutting wood, but you
can then buy blades to cut concrete?

Circular saws are good for quite a number of tasks, and it is possible
to cut concrete with the right blade. However its not really the ideal
tool for it. For moderate amounts of concrete cutting a diamond disc in
an angle grinder is the best way forward. For large quantities a stone
saw (basically a big 12" angle grinder with water cooling).

http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/powertools/anglegrinder.htm
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Angle_grinder

Do the machines/blades come in different sizes I guess? Is a circular

Yup several different sizes. The most common probably being 7" these days.

Loads more info he

http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/powertools/circularsaw.htm




--
Cheers,

John.

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On 27 June, 02:49, "mo" wrote:
Hi

I have a few jobs around the garden which will require a saw - wondering if
it is worth investing (not much) in one so I don't have to pay for a hire.

I understand circular saws are generally aimed at cutting wood, but you can
then buy blades to cut concrete?

Do the machines/blades come in different sizes I guess? Is a circular saw
the best way to cut through concrete?

Could I suggest you list these jobs as there are so many different
saws which all match different materials to cut. I have a reasonable
amount of garden and can't think of an application there for a
circular saw except for a construction project.

Rob

On Jun 27, 2:49*am, "mo" wrote:
Hi

I have a few jobs around the garden which will require a saw - wondering if
it is worth investing (not much) in one so I don't have to pay for a hire..

I understand circular saws are generally aimed at cutting wood, but you can
then buy blades to cut concrete?

Do the machines/blades come in different sizes I guess? Is a circular saw
the best way to cut through concrete?

If I had to live with just one power sae it would definitely be a
circular. NOT a jigsaw.

Concrete cutting is the domain of an angle grinder.
http://www.wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index....=Angle_grinder


NT

"Rob G" wrote in message
...
On 27 June, 02:49, "mo" wrote:
Hi

I have a few jobs around the garden which will require a saw - wondering
if
it is worth investing (not much) in one so I don't have to pay for a
hire.

I understand circular saws are generally aimed at cutting wood, but you
can
then buy blades to cut concrete?

Do the machines/blades come in different sizes I guess? Is a circular saw
the best way to cut through concrete?

Could I suggest you list these jobs as there are so many different
saws which all match different materials to cut. I have a reasonable
amount of garden and can't think of an application there for a
circular saw except for a construction project.

Rob

Agreed. A chop saw might be useful if you were making a long picket fence, a
circular saw would be indispensible if you were constructing (say) a tool or
bike store largely made from plywood. A 300 mm diamond disk in a large angle
grinder is the right way to cut concrete slabs. A big SDS drill with cold
chisels might be the tool for breaking up a concrete path.

mo wrote:

I have a few jobs around the garden which will require a saw

What sort of jobs? I wouldn't try using a circular saw to prune trees,
for example. Not unless you want to get fitted with an attractive chrome
hook instead of a hand. I use a circular saw to cut up wood for the
fire, but it's a large bench circular saw powered by a tractor, so not
likely to be of much interest to anyone with a suburban garden.

Or do you mean garden construction projects such as decking and fences?
I'd say for those you're better off hiring a sliding mitre/chop saw.
Buying a decent one isn't cheap and cheap ones aren't decent.

For concrete an angle grinder is better and IMO safer than a circular
saw.

"Steve Firth" wrote in message
.. .

For concrete an angle grinder is better and IMO safer than a circular
saw.

Its hard to see how having a large spinning disk on an angle grinder could
be safer than having a large spinning disk mounted in a frame with a stable
base and better guards.
A hint about the relative safety is probably given by the use of machines
with larger blades, you don't see a 24" blade in an angle grinder to make
them safer than when they are in a machine.

dennis@home wrote:


"Steve Firth" wrote in message
.. .

For concrete an angle grinder is better and IMO safer than a circular
saw.

Its hard to see how having a large spinning disk on an angle grinder
could be safer than having a large spinning disk mounted in a frame with
a stable base and better guards.
A hint about the relative safety is probably given by the use of
machines with larger blades, you don't see a 24" blade in an angle
grinder to make them safer than when they are in a machine.

The most dangerous part of either an angle grinder or circular saw is
the nut that holds the handle. ;-)

--
David in Normandy.
To e-mail you must include the password FROG on the
subject line, or it will be automatically deleted
by a filter and not reach my inbox.

Couple of jobs that need doing soon.

Cutting and resizing of wooden fence panels. Though I spose a hand aw would
be better for a straight cut?

Cutting of concrete gravel boards - I need to do this tomorrow - anyone know
if this will do it in the short term?
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/46714/...e-Saw-28-711mm

I also need to cut some concrete in the floor which is holding up a washing
line - not sure how deep it is.

I will also ne doing some block paving to being able to cut through natural
stone would be superb.

I don't want to spend too much dosh though as this gardening project is
costing more and more each day!

"mo" wrote in message
...
Couple of jobs that need doing soon.

Cutting and resizing of wooden fence panels. Though I spose a hand aw
would be better for a straight cut?

Cutting of concrete gravel boards - I need to do this tomorrow - anyone
know if this will do it in the short term?
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/46714/...e-Saw-28-711mm

Not a snowball in hells chance.
Its for light concrete not pressure moulded gravel boards.

By a cheap angle grinder and a diamond disk.

I also need to cut some concrete in the floor which is holding up a
washing line - not sure how deep it is.

Sledge hammer or dig a deeper hole next to it and push it in.


I will also ne doing some block paving to being able to cut through
natural stone would be superb.

Its that grinder again so buy a better one.


I don't want to spend too much dosh though as this gardening project is
costing more and more each day!

mo coughed up some electrons that declared:

Couple of jobs that need doing soon.

Cutting and resizing of wooden fence panels. Though I spose a hand aw
would be better for a straight cut?

Cutting of concrete gravel boards - I need to do this tomorrow - anyone
know if this will do it in the short term?

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/46714/...e-Saw-28-711mm

I also need to cut some concrete in the floor which is holding up a
washing line - not sure how deep it is.

I will also ne doing some block paving to being able to cut through
natural stone would be superb.

I don't want to spend too much dosh though as this gardening project is
costing more and more each day!

Not sure about that saw - concrete gravel boards are pretty hard, but this
will do most of what you want (only that bit about the unknown depth
concrete is in doubt):

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/24158/...-Angle-Grinder

It's cheap for what it is but it's competent (I have one). I got a cheapy
diamond blade for mine and it's managed medium grade concrete perfectly
well.

Or hire one - if you can do all your jobs in a day or 3.

Cheers

Tim

"Tim S" wrote in message
...


http://www.screwfix.com/prods/24158/...-Angle-Grinder

It's cheap for what it is but it's competent (I have one). I got a cheapy
diamond blade for mine and it's managed medium grade concrete perfectly
well.

Or hire one - if you can do all your jobs in a day or 3.

Cheers

Tim

Thanks for the replies so far

Yes, I have been reading about angle grinders since I posted, I suppose they
offer good value for what they can do... slightly scared of using one tho!!

That 9 incher looks pretty big .I was going to go for the 4.5in - which will
do the gravel boards quite easily I guess. Does the 4.5 mean that is the
size of the disc, so i will only get half that cut depth or does it mean I
get 4.5inch cut?

I might go for one of these:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/12131/...e-Grinder-240V

What is the difference between the 110v and 240v, I guess I need the 240v as
a domestic user?

The Bosch one look OK? Are there any safety features in the more expensive
ones not in the cheaper ones?

Which blade would you recommend to go with it?

Also, I read that when cutting paving stones you should use water to prevent
dust spreading, does this apply with angle grinders.. can they come with
water dust suppresion?

mo coughed up some electrons that declared:



"Tim S" wrote in message
...



http://www.screwfix.com/prods/24158/...-Angle-Grinder

It's cheap for what it is but it's competent (I have one). I got a cheapy
diamond blade for mine and it's managed medium grade concrete perfectly
well.

Or hire one - if you can do all your jobs in a day or 3.

Cheers

Tim

Thanks for the replies so far

Yes, I have been reading about angle grinders since I posted, I suppose
they offer good value for what they can do... slightly scared of using one
tho!!

9" is slightly scarier than a 4.5", but not much as long as you start out
with an attitude of respect. Keep the line of the cut away from as many of
your appendages as possible in the rare case of it kicking (never had this
happen) and keep a firm controlled hold of the tool and the workpiece, Keep
random interference well away (lock up the kids and pets - you don't want
any distractions). With a correct attitude and preparation, there's not
much to be worried about. It's when people get blase, accidents happen.

That 9 incher looks pretty big .I was going to go for the 4.5in - which
will do the gravel boards quite easily I guess. Does the 4.5 mean that is
the size of the disc, so i will only get half that cut depth or does it
mean I get 4.5inch cut?

4.5" dia disc. You've got about 1" useable depth the tool head has some
diameter too. It will do the gravel boards, probably just. Bit tight on the
stone, depending on how thick they are, but it would possibly be enough to
snap them the rest of the way, or cut from both sides, leaving a clean cut
on the top face and a break on the lower non visible bit.

9" would be better though. Definately use a diamond disc if you must go for
a 4.5" - grit discs wear fast and reduce your depth even more.

I might go for one of these:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/12131/...e-Grinder-240V


That's a nice model in the 4.5" range - as you can see there is a locking
button to allow the spindle to be locked when using a spanner to change the
blade. The green version needs 2 spanners.

It'll be very handy for cutting and grinding metal which the 9" is a bit too
unwieldy for. But if you are really in it for the stonework, the 9" would
still be a better choice IMHO.

What is the difference between the 110v and 240v, I guess I need the 240v
as a domestic user?

240V unless you have a site 240-110V transformer. 110 (or 55-0-55 as it
really is) is a bit safer in wet conditions, but you'll have an RCD on the
end in such conditions, wouldn;t you(!)

The Bosch one look OK? Are there any safety features in the more expensive
ones not in the cheaper ones?

Blue Bosch is reliable for a bit of abuse - well made pro end.

Green Bosch is DIY grade - still fairly well made, but no so abuse proof and
some features that make for an easier life may be missing.

Hitachi is another OK brand - Screwfix have a deal on now of a 4.5" plus 9"
together for a very reasonable price:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/51269/...Twin-Pack-230V

Which blade would you recommend to go with it?

Stone/concrete - diamond. A cheap diamond will walk all over grit discs.

Get a few metal cutters and one or twp metal grinders (thicker discs) for a
fairly versatile starter set. There are wire brushes, mortar rake bits and
lots of other random gismos too.


Also, I read that when cutting paving stones you should use water to
prevent dust spreading, does this apply with angle grinders.. can they
come with water dust suppresion?

I wouldn't stick water near one unless it was designed for it and definately
not on grit discs - can cause them to fail (that's BAD as in big bang bad).

Generally, do it outside and it'll throw the dust away from you. Inside and
it will look like the Sahara on a very bad day in about 10 seconds (done
that).

HTH

Tim

"Tim S" wrote in message
...


Hitachi is another OK brand - Screwfix have a deal on now of a 4.5" plus
9"
together for a very reasonable price:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/51269/...Twin-Pack-230V



HTH

Tim

Looks good, think I am sold on it,

1 inch depth with a 4.5 blade won;t really cut it for me. I definitely want
the option of making deeper cuts in the future

Another use is that I have put up concrete posts (2 so far) - if the all end
up different heights I can take the top off to make them the same height.

Any idea on the depth a 9incher gives?

mo wrote:

I might go for one of these:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/12131/...ch-GWS6-115-11
5-Angle-Grinder-240V

For that sort of money, go for one of these:

http://tinyurl.com/mmbhb3

What is the difference between the 110v and 240v, I guess I need the 240v as
a domestic user?

Yes, you need 240V, 110V units are for construction site use and you
need to get a transformer to use them. The transformer is wired to
ensure that the maximum voltage between you and earth if you touch the
live wire is 55V. It's safer than a 240V power tool but generally more
expensive and you need a very large heavy transformer. The RCD in your
consumer unit should provide adequate protection so you don't need the
110V tools. If you don't have an RCD or you're unsure about whether you
have one you can buy a plug-in RCD for extra assurance.

The angle grinder I've suggested is bigger than the one you were looking
at. The disks are twice as large. You'll need this to cut through a
concrete gravel board. They're easy to use, just have a practice with it
first. I suggest that you buy a diamond cutting disk suitable for
concrete and stone. It will last much longer than the cheaper abrasive
disks.

The one thing you need to get used to is the feel of the grinder running
at speed. They are like gyroscopes, as you move them they will try to
rotate in a direction at right angles to the movement. This takes a
little getting used to. Provided that you don't try to wave the grinder
around like a feather duster it won't be a problem.

If you go for the smaller grinder you will find that it won't cut right
through the block and you will have to turn the block over and cut the
other side matching the two cuts up precisely. Then you will still have
to split it using a bolster. You will also find that the disks wear
rapidly when cutting concrete and you need to buy large stacks of them
unless you use diamond disks.

Don't ever attempt to cut concrete with a disk designed for metal or
vice versa it's dangerous.

Buy goggles and heavy riggers gloves and wear them. Keep loose clothing
away from moving parts, it's probably worthwhile taking off all
jewellery especially rings, you don't want to have an accident where the
flesh is stripped off your finger down to the bone. Wear the gloves.

So to summarise you want:

http://tinyurl.com/mmbhb3 (Angle grinder 230mm)
http://tinyurl.com/nuyolj (Diamond concrete cutting disk 230mm)
http://tinyurl.com/klgyaz (Goggles, mask, gloves, earplugs)


As to the fence panels, I wouldn't use a circular saw because the panels
are full of nails and hitting one of those with the saw is a dodgy
proposition. I'd use a Stanley Jetcut hand saw which will go through the
panel like a knife through butter. It's also handy for other general
garden use.

http://tinyurl.com/ln5f2k

The teeth are specially designed to cut on push and pull strokes and
they are made in such a way that they leave a very smooth finish but cut
rapidly through the wood - much faster than a normal saw. The teeth are
also as sharp as razors, don't touch them with your fingers.

mo wrote:
"Tim S" wrote in message
...


http://www.screwfix.com/prods/24158/...-Angle-Grinder

It's cheap for what it is but it's competent (I have one). I got a
cheapy diamond blade for mine and it's managed medium grade concrete
perfectly well.

Or hire one - if you can do all your jobs in a day or 3.

Cheers

Tim

Thanks for the replies so far

Yes, I have been reading about angle grinders since I posted, I
suppose they offer good value for what they can do... slightly scared
of using one tho!!

As you should be. Treat angle grinders with a great deal of respect.

That 9 incher looks pretty big .I was going to go for the 4.5in -
which will do the gravel boards quite easily I guess. Does the 4.5
mean that is the size of the disc, so i will only get half that cut
depth or does it mean I get 4.5inch cut?

No chance whatsoever on a concrete gravel board BTDTGTTS, you will still be
there next month. You need a 230mm machine.

I might go for one of these:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/12131/...e-Grinder-240V

What is the difference between the 110v and 240v, I guess I need the
240v as a domestic user?

You do. 110v is for use on building sites & needs a transformer.

The Bosch one look OK? Are there any safety features in the more
expensive ones not in the cheaper ones?

Not really. Bosch is an excellent make though, high quality at that price.

Which blade would you recommend to go with it?

Diamond deffo. Check out Aldi & Lidl, they do pretty good ones at
reasonable prices.

Also, I read that when cutting paving stones you should use water to
prevent dust spreading, does this apply with angle grinders.. can
they come with water dust suppresion?

No it doesn't, no they don't. Be prepared for sh*t loads of dust.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

mo coughed up some electrons that declared:

Looks good, think I am sold on it,

The reviews are good - I have a Hitachi SDS and that takes rather more abuse
than should be good for it.


1 inch depth with a 4.5 blade won;t really cut it for me. I definitely
want the option of making deeper cuts in the future

Another use is that I have put up concrete posts (2 so far) - if the all
end up different heights I can take the top off to make them the same
height.

This is the cheapest blade from Screwfix - I have one and it's taken some
abuse on concrete and still going strong:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/21955/...ard-230x22-2mm

Unfortunately it adds another £20 (unless Aldi/Lidl have any specials on)
but it should see you through your joblist and still have life in it.

Any idea on the depth a 9incher gives?

About 3 and a bit inches IME. Again, the head has some diameter, but, unless
you go to a 12" grinder which is overkill for most of your jobs (and much
scarier) you'll manage. The posts: do what you can from one side and then
run round both adjacent sides until you get through. Should look OK.

Take it slow and let the weight of the machine do the work - don't force it
hard. It'll cut quickly enough and it's safer. The posts and gravel board
probably have steel bar in, which the disc should manage, but don't force
it - you may feel it when you hit these so be prepared for a possible
change in the handling and let it work its own way through.

Eye protection (googles) and ear defenders would be very advisable. These
are cheap enough though.

Cheers

Tim

mo wrote:
"Tim S" wrote in message
...


Hitachi is another OK brand - Screwfix have a deal on now of a 4.5"
plus 9"
together for a very reasonable price:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/51269/...Twin-Pack-230V



HTH

Tim

Looks good, think I am sold on it,

1 inch depth with a 4.5 blade won;t really cut it for me. I
definitely want the option of making deeper cuts in the future

Another use is that I have put up concrete posts (2 so far) - if the
all end up different heights I can take the top off to make them the
same height.

Done that, a 9" AG will neatly trim the tops, but make sure you are on a
firm safe base. You can't be wobbling about when you do it.


Any idea on the depth a 9incher gives?

Enough to trim a concrete post or cut a gravel board.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Tim S coughed up some electrons that declared:

mo coughed up some electrons that declared:

Looks good, think I am sold on it,

The reviews are good - I have a Hitachi SDS and that takes rather more
abuse than should be good for it.


1 inch depth with a 4.5 blade won;t really cut it for me. I definitely
want the option of making deeper cuts in the future

Another use is that I have put up concrete posts (2 so far) - if the all
end up different heights I can take the top off to make them the same
height.

This is the cheapest blade from Screwfix - I have one and it's taken some
abuse on concrete and still going strong:


http://www.screwfix.com/prods/21955/...ard-230x22-2mm

Unfortunately it adds another £20 (unless Aldi/Lidl have any specials on)
but it should see you through your joblist and still have life in it.

Any idea on the depth a 9incher gives?

About 3 and a bit inches IME. Again, the head has some diameter, but,
unless you go to a 12" grinder which is overkill for most of your jobs
(and much scarier) you'll manage. The posts: do what you can from one side
and then run round both adjacent sides until you get through. Should look
OK.

Take it slow and let the weight of the machine do the work -

For downward cuts obviously, but you get the idea...


don't force
it hard. It'll cut quickly enough and it's safer. The posts and gravel
board probably have steel bar in, which the disc should manage, but don't
force it - you may feel it when you hit these so be prepared for a
possible change in the handling and let it work its own way through.

Eye protection (googles) and ear defenders would be very advisable. These
are cheap enough though.

Cheers

Tim

Thanks for all the help guys

I'll make some decisions tomorrow.


Do the discs brake that often - if so is there a likelyhood of it coming
back at me?

And also ,kick back - if it all goes wrong what can happen?

"mo" wrote in message
...
Thanks for all the help guys

I'll make some decisions tomorrow.


Do the discs brake that often - if so is there a likelyhood of it coming
back at me?

And also ,kick back - if it all goes wrong what can happen?


oh, and can you recommend any gloves from b and q or screwfix as i want them
tomorrow as opposed to online ordering is possible

I spose a grinder will cut through any glove anyway, is there a minimum
standard?

also ,will ear defenders do over plugs?

one final thing!

am i limiting myself in anyway by going for a 9incher? - i.e are some things
only available for the smaller grinders?
one possible use i might have is a paint removal tool - so i can get rid of
some paint on an old shed and paint over

a quick browse of the screw fix catalogue shows some items only being sold
in 115m diameter and some things sold by shank/thread - does this mean they
are interchangable on different grinders?

Tim S wrote:
Tim S coughed up some electrons that declared:

mo coughed up some electrons that declared:

Looks good, think I am sold on it,
The reviews are good - I have a Hitachi SDS and that takes rather more
abuse than should be good for it.

1 inch depth with a 4.5 blade won;t really cut it for me. I definitely
want the option of making deeper cuts in the future

Another use is that I have put up concrete posts (2 so far) - if the all
end up different heights I can take the top off to make them the same
height.
This is the cheapest blade from Screwfix - I have one and it's taken some
abuse on concrete and still going strong:


http://www.screwfix.com/prods/21955/...ard-230x22-2mm
Unfortunately it adds another £20 (unless Aldi/Lidl have any specials on)
but it should see you through your joblist and still have life in it.

Any idea on the depth a 9incher gives?
About 3 and a bit inches IME. Again, the head has some diameter, but,
unless you go to a 12" grinder which is overkill for most of your jobs
(and much scarier) you'll manage. The posts: do what you can from one side
and then run round both adjacent sides until you get through. Should look
OK.

Take it slow and let the weight of the machine do the work -

For downward cuts obviously, but you get the idea...


don't force
it hard. It'll cut quickly enough and it's safer. The posts and gravel
board probably have steel bar in, which the disc should manage, but don't
force it - you may feel it when you hit these so be prepared for a
possible change in the handling and let it work its own way through.

Eye protection (googles) and ear defenders would be very advisable. These
are cheap enough though.

and make sure the goggles are "indirect vent" (i.e. not the sort with
small holes all over the side of them - those let thorough angle gringer
debris too easily) - better still a full face visor.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

The Medway Handyman wrote:

The Bosch one look OK? Are there any safety features in the more
expensive ones not in the cheaper ones?

Not really. Bosch is an excellent make though, high quality at that price.

Well the switches don't clog with dust and get stuck on... which has
happened on some cheapies.

(its worth getting a better quality of machine for stone cutting since
the dust is abrasive and will knacker lesser machines sooner)

Also, I read that when cutting paving stones you should use water to
prevent dust spreading, does this apply with angle grinders.. can
they come with water dust suppresion?

No it doesn't, no they don't. Be prepared for sh*t loads of dust.

and then some!


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

mo wrote:
Thanks for all the help guys

I'll make some decisions tomorrow.


Do the discs brake that often - if so is there a likelyhood of it coming
back at me?

Diamond disks are steel and won't break. Abrasive disks generally don't
break either unless you abuse them. Dropping the machine when running
being one possible way.

And also ,kick back - if it all goes wrong what can happen?

If you are cutting down and towards you it will tend to snatch the
machine away from you and possibly up. Generally easy to control but
don't get you head up close to the back of the machine. They have guards
round the back of the blade - never use one without for cutting.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

mo wrote:

oh, and can you recommend any gloves from b and q or screwfix as i want
them tomorrow as opposed to online ordering is possible

Good quality leather rigger gloves are best IME.

I spose a grinder will cut through any glove anyway, is there a minimum
standard?

A grinder disk will tend to burn or abrade skin if it contacts. It does
not cut rapidly like a circular saw does. A good glove will offer some
protection from contact. Steel toe shoes are also worth having when
cutting blocks etc. (even if you don't chop your toes, you are sure to
drop a half brick on them before long!)

also ,will ear defenders do over plugs?

Yup, better in fact.

--
Cheers,

John.

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mo wrote:
one final thing!

am i limiting myself in anyway by going for a 9incher? - i.e are some
things only available for the smaller grinders?

To be honest, ultimately you need both sizes. Jobs like grinding, wire
brushing, or running flap disks are much easier with a small grinder.
They also spin much faster.

one possible use i might have is a paint removal tool - so i can get rid
of some paint on an old shed and paint over

The small machine is probably the better bet there.

a quick browse of the screw fix catalogue shows some items only being
sold in 115m diameter and some things sold by shank/thread - does this
mean they are interchangable on different grinders?

Generally stuff is interchangeable between grinders of the same size.

--
Cheers,

John.

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mo coughed up some electrons that declared:


oh, and can you recommend any gloves from b and q or screwfix as i want
them tomorrow as opposed to online ordering is possible

I spose a grinder will cut through any glove anyway, is there a minimum
standard?

Just buy ordinary rigger or gardening gloves (leather).

also ,will ear defenders do over plugs?

Yes of course.

Tim

mo coughed up some electrons that declared:

one final thing!

am i limiting myself in anyway by going for a 9incher? - i.e are some
things only available for the smaller grinders?

Yes.

one possible use i might have is a paint removal tool - so i can get rid
of some paint on an old shed and paint over

4.5" can take a flap wheel sander - though these can leave circular marks as
they are pretty violent.

a quick browse of the screw fix catalogue shows some items only being sold
in 115m diameter and some things sold by shank/thread - does this mean
they are interchangable on different grinders?

AFAIK, the thread is pretty standard amongst all of them and had been for a
long time.

115mm/4.5" is the bit that matters, assuming it says "for angle grinder".

Screfix will refund you anyway if you give it back in mint condition.

Cheers

Tim

On Sun, 28 Jun 2009 00:14:22 +0100, mo wrote:



"Tim S" wrote in message
...


Hitachi is another OK brand - Screwfix have a deal on now of a 4.5"
plus 9"
together for a very reasonable price:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/51269/...Twin-Pack-230V



HTH

Tim

Looks good, think I am sold on it,

1 inch depth with a 4.5 blade won;t really cut it for me. I definitely
want the option of making deeper cuts in the future

Another use is that I have put up concrete posts (2 so far) - if the all
end up different heights I can take the top off to make them the same
height.

Any idea on the depth a 9incher gives?

=========================================

There's a limit to how much you can take off the tops of posts (probably
3" max.) because of the risk of exposing the steel reinforcing rods.
Exposed steel will rust very quickly and 'blow' the surrounding concrete,
leading to crumbling of the posts.

It would be much better to concentrate on getting your posts level rather
than trying to rectify later by cutting. Cutting tops off 6' posts with an
angle grinder is potentially dangerous, either because you'll need to
stretch to head height or stand on a ladder to do the cutting.


Cic.

--
==========================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
==========================================

mo wrote:
Thanks for all the help guys

I'll make some decisions tomorrow.


Do the discs brake that often - if so is there a likelyhood of it
coming back at me?

And also ,kick back - if it all goes wrong what can happen?

A 9" AG is 2300w or so. Thats as 'strong' as 3 horses, wheras you are as
strong as one bloke called Mo.

If the blade catches during a cut the grinder will kick back & you won't be
able to hold it. Always stand to one side of the cut line & be aware of
where it will go if it does kick back.

The object you are cutting can also move if the blade jams in the cut, so
make sure its held down.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

In article ,
Steve Firth wrote:
Or do you mean garden construction projects such as decking and fences?
I'd say for those you're better off hiring a sliding mitre/chop saw.
Buying a decent one isn't cheap and cheap ones aren't decent.

Dunno about that. I have a 10" PPPro one which is more than ok. It doesn't
have indents at 90 degrees etc so for accurate stuff you check it with a
set square, as just using its protractor scale doesn't quite work. It
doesn't slide as easily as it should but is very rigid so I'll forgive it
that. Being 10" you don't often need the slide feature anyway.
A decent make costs 5 times as much.

--
*I have plenty of talent and vision. I just don't care.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

mo wrote:

Yes, I have been reading about angle grinders since I posted, I suppose
they offer good value for what they can do... slightly scared of using
one tho!!


I suggest always wearing goggles or similar when using one. I tend to
use mine for cutting metal in places difficult to reach with a hand
hacksaw, or if the metal is too thick. I always wear a full face visor
for such tasks - a hot shard of metal in the eye is no fun, similarly a
sharp bit of gravel if you cut concrete (different blade for the angle
grinder). Normal safety glasses or goggles are a pain if you happen to
wear spectacles as they mist up. A full face visor doesn't steam up and
is actually more comfy to wear.

I even wear it when using a cold chisel and bolster hammer now after an
incident when a tiny flake of concrete chipped my spectacles. Costly error.

--
David in Normandy.
To e-mail you must include the password FROG on the
subject line, or it will be automatically deleted
by a filter and not reach my inbox.

Thanks for the help all.

I got the Hitachi set in the end, very very nervous when I opened the big
one!

The instructions were a bit crap, I was putting the nut on the wrong way and
the blade was wobbly, my neighbour fixed that also also showed me how to do
2 of my gravel boards, I then did a further 2, and it is not THAT scary
luckily.

Whilst I am here...

I want to paint my old concrete shed, is there a decent add on I can get to
take away the old paint that is flaking away - I spose a sanding attachment?
I don't want anything to aggressive tho - better off by hand?

Hopefully I will be able to use this to cut my soon to be purchased paving
slabs - either concrete ones or natural ones. Any tips? How many do you
think the blade will do before being too used? And indeed, how do I know
when to change the blade?

mo wrote:

I want to paint my old concrete shed, is there a decent add on I can get
to take away the old paint that is flaking away -

One of the "knotted" wire brush attachments for angle-grinders, e.g.

http://www.toolspot.co.uk/category/a...er-accessories

You do have some decent goggles already, don't you?