I have isolated the cut-out as the cause of the problem why the motor
won't run. A continuity check failed.

The cut-out is silver in colour, about 12mm long by about 3 mm
diameter. It is mounted axially in a piece of plain wire about 60mm
long and the whole caboodle is covered with a piece of heat-resistant
plastic. The plain wire, where it emanates from the covering, has a
spade connector that plugs directly onto the motor. The cut-out is in
the brown (neutral) cable from the 3-pin plug.

The writing on the cut-out reads:

SEFUC
SF96?
10A
JET 250V
03X5

The question mark above indicates where the digit/letter is illegible.

Does anyone know a web page where I might order such a thing? I have
done a few searches already, but there are so many different hits that
I can't see the wood for the trees.

Thanks. (I can take a photo of it if that helps.)

MM

PS: It looks exactly like the topmost component in this image:

http://images.asia.ru/img/alibaba/ph...ermal_fuse.jpg

MM

In article ,
MM wrote:
I have isolated the cut-out as the cause of the problem why the motor
won't run. A continuity check failed.

The cut-out is silver in colour, about 12mm long by about 3 mm
diameter. It is mounted axially in a piece of plain wire about 60mm
long and the whole caboodle is covered with a piece of heat-resistant
plastic. The plain wire, where it emanates from the covering, has a
spade connector that plugs directly onto the motor. The cut-out is in
the brown (neutral) cable from the 3-pin plug.

Probably a thermal fuse, by the description. Maplin actually still stock
them.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?moduleno=470

--
*A nest isn't empty until all their stuff is out of the attic

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Jun 24, 4:20*pm, MM wrote:
I have isolated the cut-out as the cause of the problem why the motor
won't run. A continuity check failed.

The cut-out is silver in colour, about 12mm long by about 3 mm
diameter. It is mounted axially in a piece of plain wire about 60mm
long and the whole caboodle is covered with a piece of heat-resistant
plastic. The plain wire, where it emanates from the covering, has a
spade connector that plugs directly onto the motor. The cut-out is in
the brown (neutral) cable from the 3-pin plug.

The writing on the cut-out reads:

SEFUC
SF96?
10A
JET 250V
03X5

The question mark above indicates where the digit/letter is illegible.

Does anyone know a web page where I might order such a thing? I have
done a few searches already, but there are so many different hits that
I can't see the wood for the trees.

Thanks. (I can take a photo of it if that helps.)

MM

You need to know what temperature it should be. Other details dont
matter much.


NT

The cut-out is in the brown (neutral) cable from the 3-pin plug.


Are you absolutly sure about that?
;-)

--
Graham.

%Profound_observation%

In message
, NT
wrote
On Jun 24, 4:20*pm, MM wrote:
I have isolated the cut-out as the cause of the problem why the motor
won't run. A continuity check failed.

The cut-out is silver in colour, about 12mm long by about 3 mm
diameter. It is mounted axially in a piece of plain wire about 60mm
long and the whole caboodle is covered with a piece of heat-resistant
plastic. The plain wire, where it emanates from the covering, has a
spade connector that plugs directly onto the motor. The cut-out is in
the brown (neutral) cable from the 3-pin plug.

The writing on the cut-out reads:

SEFUC
SF96?
10A
JET 250V
03X5

The question mark above indicates where the digit/letter is illegible.

Does anyone know a web page where I might order such a thing? I have
done a few searches already, but there are so many different hits that
I can't see the wood for the trees.

Thanks. (I can take a photo of it if that helps.)

MM

You need to know what temperature it should be. Other details dont
matter much.


It's temperature is 99C
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/s...?method=search
Products&searchTerm=176-9249&x=0&y=0

or get the equivalent from Maplin (they may have shop close by)

or CPC (a few extra degrees C should matter)
http://cpc.farnell.com/thermodisc/g4...-e-104c/dp/FF0
1022


Be aware its a one time fuse that blows when it reaches temperature.
ideally they should be crimped or screwed on but if using a soldering
iron I've had success using a high power iron and _quickly_ melting the
solder. Buy 2 off as they are quite cheap
--
Alan
news2009 {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

In message , Alan
wrote

or CPC (a few extra degrees C should matter)

that should read 'shouldn't'
--
Alan
news2009 {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On Wed, 24 Jun 2009 18:03:48 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
MM wrote:
I have isolated the cut-out as the cause of the problem why the motor
won't run. A continuity check failed.

The cut-out is silver in colour, about 12mm long by about 3 mm
diameter. It is mounted axially in a piece of plain wire about 60mm
long and the whole caboodle is covered with a piece of heat-resistant
plastic. The plain wire, where it emanates from the covering, has a
spade connector that plugs directly onto the motor. The cut-out is in
the brown (neutral) cable from the 3-pin plug.

Probably a thermal fuse, by the description. Maplin actually still stock
them.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?moduleno=470

Man, that is BRILLIANT! I'd never have thought of looking at Maplin
for vacuum cleaner spares! Well, of course, I know such items are used
in all manner of electrical equipment, but when one has the vacuum
cleaner in bits on the kitchen table, one tends to think "vacuum
cleaner spares". And these fuses are SO cheap! I could get one today
from the Peterborough store and have my Panasonic finally working
again.

NB: Which temperature do you think most approriate, 93, 110 or 128 deg
C? I have the writing on the existing fuse, but I can't tell what the
temperature is.

Just one more question, I had to cut off the heat-resistant covering
in order to extract the duff fuse. What can I use as a replacement?
Obviously, insulating tape is no good.

Many thanks.

MM

On Wed, 24 Jun 2009 18:47:46 +0100, "Graham." wrote:



The cut-out is in the brown (neutral) cable from the 3-pin plug.


Are you absolutly sure about that?
;-)

Yes, the blue cable goes straight to the motor (via the switch) and
the brown one goes via the thermal fuse.

MM

On Wed, 24 Jun 2009 20:55:35 +0100, Alan
wrote:

Be aware its a one time fuse that blows when it reaches temperature.
ideally they should be crimped or screwed on

Ah, it's good that you say this, because I was just going to solder
the new one in. The fuse *IS* currently crimped on. One end of its
wire has the crimped on spade connector to connect to the motor and
the other end is embedded in a small plastic tube with the wire from
the switch going in and the thermal fuse as well. I have cut open the
plastic tube with sidecutters and there's a copper or brass crimp in
there to join the two together. The plastic tube acts as an insulator.
The tube can probably be "rescued" with my hot glue gun, but I don't
know what I could use to crimp the two wires together. Maybe a spare
spade connector? The bit where the wire goes in, I mean.

MM

On Wed, 24 Jun 2009 20:55:35 +0100, Alan
wrote:

or CPC (a few extra degrees C should matter)

I've since checked to see what Maplin have and they do either a 93
degrees C one or a 110 deg C one. Which would you recommend?

(Maplin are considerable cheaper for small quantities and I have a
refund voucher!)

MM

MM wrote:
On Wed, 24 Jun 2009 18:03:48 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
MM wrote:
I have isolated the cut-out as the cause of the problem why the motor
won't run. A continuity check failed.
The cut-out is silver in colour, about 12mm long by about 3 mm
diameter. It is mounted axially in a piece of plain wire about 60mm
long and the whole caboodle is covered with a piece of heat-resistant
plastic. The plain wire, where it emanates from the covering, has a
spade connector that plugs directly onto the motor. The cut-out is in
the brown (neutral) cable from the 3-pin plug.
Probably a thermal fuse, by the description. Maplin actually still stock
them.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?moduleno=470

Man, that is BRILLIANT! I'd never have thought of looking at Maplin
for vacuum cleaner spares! Well, of course, I know such items are used
in all manner of electrical equipment, but when one has the vacuum
cleaner in bits on the kitchen table, one tends to think "vacuum
cleaner spares". And these fuses are SO cheap! I could get one today
from the Peterborough store and have my Panasonic finally working
again.

NB: Which temperature do you think most approriate, 93, 110 or 128 deg
C? I have the writing on the existing fuse, but I can't tell what the
temperature is.

Just one more question, I had to cut off the heat-resistant covering
in order to extract the duff fuse. What can I use as a replacement?
Obviously, insulating tape is no good.

Many thanks.

MM
Maplin should also sell heat shrink sleeving of various sizes

The old fuse should have the temperature written on it included as part
of the part no.

Bob

On Thu, 25 Jun 2009 06:50:41 +0100, Bob Minchin
wrote:

Maplin should also sell heat shrink sleeving of various sizes

Isn't there a difference between heat-shrink sleeving and
heat-resistant sleeving? The sleeving that was on the fuse was a very
loose fit, whereas I believe with heat-shrink, heat is applied to
shrink the sleeving on tightly. Now, that's not to say that the
heat-shrink kind doesn't also possess heat-resistant properties. Maybe
it does. The covering which I snipped away has a woven fabric interior
which is probably fibreglass. The fuse may get pretty warm in normal
use, i.e. well before it "blows" and that is why the manufacturer used
loose-fit heat-resistant sleeving around it. Mind you, Maplin may also
sell this type of sleeving and I'm about to look at their web site
(barely accessible at 5:55 this morning, probably because of their
overnight backups were still running).

MM

"MM" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 24 Jun 2009 18:47:46 +0100, "Graham." wrote:



The cut-out is in the brown (neutral) cable from the 3-pin plug.


Are you absolutly sure about that?
;-)

Yes, the blue cable goes straight to the motor (via the switch) and
the brown one goes via the thermal fuse.

MM

I don't doubt that, but are you absolutely sure about the first statement?

--
Graham.

%Profound_observation%

On Thu, 25 Jun 2009 11:23:32 +0100, "Graham." wrote:



"MM" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 24 Jun 2009 18:47:46 +0100, "Graham." wrote:



The cut-out is in the brown (neutral) cable from the 3-pin plug.


Are you absolutly sure about that?
;-)

Yes, the blue cable goes straight to the motor (via the switch) and
the brown one goes via the thermal fuse.

MM

I don't doubt that, but are you absolutely sure about the first statement?

Typo. I was tired.

MM

Graham. wrote:
"MM" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 24 Jun 2009 18:47:46 +0100, "Graham." wrote:



The cut-out is in the brown (neutral) cable from the 3-pin plug.


Are you absolutly sure about that?
;-)

Yes, the blue cable goes straight to the motor (via the switch) and
the brown one goes via the thermal fuse.

MM

I don't doubt that, but are you absolutely sure about the first
statement?

Wot he means is that the brown is live, not neutral.

Subtlety is obviously not working here :-)


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Thu, 25 Jun 2009 23:44:07 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:

Graham. wrote:
"MM" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 24 Jun 2009 18:47:46 +0100, "Graham." wrote:



The cut-out is in the brown (neutral) cable from the 3-pin plug.


Are you absolutly sure about that?
;-)

Yes, the blue cable goes straight to the motor (via the switch) and
the brown one goes via the thermal fuse.

MM

I don't doubt that, but are you absolutely sure about the first
statement?

Wot he means is that the brown is live, not neutral.

Subtlety is obviously not working here :-)

Like I said, typo. My bruv taught me a rhyme years ago: blue=neutral
(bloo=noo)

Seems like Graham has a lot of time on his hands!

MM

In article , MM
writes

I have isolated the cut-out as the cause of the problem why the motor
won't run. A continuity check failed.

If the motor has overheated, you should find out why, or the thermal
fuse will fail again. Most common cause is blocked filters.

--
(\__/)
(='.'=) Bunny says Windows 7 is Vi$ta reloaded.
(")_(") http://imgs.xkcd.com/comics/windows_7.png

On Fri, 26 Jun 2009 09:02:52 +0100, MM wrote:

Like I said, typo. My bruv taught me a rhyme years ago: blue=neutral
(bloo=noo)

My dad told me 'you can't be live if you're blue, you can if you're
brown', which has always worked for me.

Huge wrote:

I always remember it by the fact that it's an EU standard, and therefore
the earth coloured conductor must be the live one ...

Yes, brown colour of earth must be earth. Green and yellow stripey looks
like a dangerous snake that will bite you, must be live.

At least in the rest of Europe they make it easy by making every wire
grey so there's nothing to worry about.

"Steve Firth" wrote in message
...
Huge wrote:

I always remember it by the fact that it's an EU standard, and therefore
the earth coloured conductor must be the live one ...

Yes, brown colour of earth must be earth. Green and yellow stripey looks
like a dangerous snake that will bite you, must be live.

At least in the rest of Europe they make it easy by making every wire
grey so there's nothing to worry about.

When flexes changed from red/black/green there was a Public Information
Film on TV
Pictures of a locomotive setting the rhythm for
Brown live, brown live, brown live
Blue neutral, blue neutral, blue neutral
Green and yellow earth, green and yellow earth, green and yellow earth

Of course it may have just been a bad dream ;-)

--
Graham.

%Profound_observation%