I'm patching my house windows, - photo at
http://www.dicegeorge.com/psb/psimg/...062009152s.jpg

I'm squirting foam deep into the gaps,
then using flexible frame sealant on top of that,
then primer then white paint.

But in the window photoed there is a layer of lead between the wood and
the stone.

I plan to remove it-
thinking it was a buffer between lime cement and the wood,
but now I'm using foam it would only get in the way
and make the joint less water tight.

Am I right to do this,
or should I leave the lead in place?

any other recomendations/

[george]

Unless anyone can think of a reason to leave the lead in
I will get up the ladder and carefully pull it out tomorrow
and then squirt in foam...

george (dicegeorge) wrote:
I'm patching my house windows, - photo at
http://www.dicegeorge.com/psb/psimg/...062009152s.jpg

I'm squirting foam deep into the gaps,
then using flexible frame sealant on top of that,
then primer then white paint.

But in the window photoed there is a layer of lead between the wood and
the stone.

I plan to remove it-
thinking it was a buffer between lime cement and the wood,
but now I'm using foam it would only get in the way
and make the joint less water tight.

Am I right to do this,
or should I leave the lead in place?

any other recomendations/

[george]

On 15 June, 21:59, "george (dicegeorge)" wrote:
Unless anyone can think of a reason to leave the lead in
I will get up the ladder and carefully pull it out tomorrow
and then squirt in foam...

george (dicegeorge) wrote:
I'm patching my house windows, - photo at
http://www.dicegeorge.com/psb/psimg/...062009152s.jpg

I'm squirting foam deep into the gaps,
then using flexible frame sealant on top of that,
then primer then white paint.

But in the window photoed there is a layer of lead between the wood and
the stone.

I plan to remove it-
thinking it was a buffer between lime cement and the wood,
but now I'm using foam it would only get in the way
and make the joint less water tight.

Am I right to do this,
or should I leave the lead in place?

any other recomendations/

[george]



Dear Dicegeorge
What is wrong with leaving it in place? If the purpose of the foam is
to gap fill and secure / insulate, then use a tube to put it behind
the area you want to put in the mastic
I personally would no bother as I suspect that a decent load of
polysulphide mastic or some 797 would do the job without it
I suspect the purpose of the lead is as a dpm (which is required for
present building regs) and is only commonsense. I have been putting
in windows with dpms to isolate timber masonry contact for over 30
years and it is bog standard dry rot prevention practice.

Chris

In article
,
Rad wrote:
What is wrong with leaving it in place? If the purpose of the foam is
to gap fill and secure / insulate, then use a tube to put it behind
the area you want to put in the mastic
I personally would no bother as I suspect that a decent load of
polysulphide mastic or some 797 would do the job without it
I suspect the purpose of the lead is as a dpm (which is required for
present building regs) and is only commonsense. I have been putting
in windows with dpms to isolate timber masonry contact for over 30
years and it is bog standard dry rot prevention practice.

Interesting. I've never seen this. And the pic looks like it's a pretty
old house.

--
*When blondes have more fun, do they know it?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Rad wrote:
On 15 June, 21:59, "george (dicegeorge)" wrote:
Unless anyone can think of a reason to leave the lead in
I will get up the ladder and carefully pull it out tomorrow
and then squirt in foam...

george (dicegeorge) wrote:
I'm patching my house windows, - photo at
http://www.dicegeorge.com/psb/psimg/...062009152s.jpg
I'm squirting foam deep into the gaps,
then using flexible frame sealant on top of that,
then primer then white paint.
But in the window photoed there is a layer of lead between the wood and
the stone.
I plan to remove it-
thinking it was a buffer between lime cement and the wood,
but now I'm using foam it would only get in the way
and make the joint less water tight.
Am I right to do this,
or should I leave the lead in place?
any other recomendations/
[george]


Dear Dicegeorge
What is wrong with leaving it in place?
because dampness could seep in the gap between the lead and the wood


If the purpose of the foam is
to gap fill and secure / insulate, then use a tube to put it behind
yes there are huge gaps around some of the wood (lots of windows to do)
and the tubes of filler would work out very expensive
so on the one window i've done i filled the gaps with foam
then put a layer of window sealant on top, and painted that.

Last year I used plaster cement but it has cracked so that's not good
enough. (but cheap for filling)
the area you want to put in the mastic
I personally would no bother as I suspect that a decent load of
polysulphide mastic or some 797 would do the job without it

is that the same as the stuff i've got called flexible window sealant?
Polycell Flexible Gap Polyfilla 3820010 White
is £3.98 at B&Q which is too expensive to use as the sole gap filler...

I suspect the purpose of the lead is as a dpm (which is required for
present building regs) and is only commonsense.

I dont have 'commonsense' because i havent worked in building before!
99% of the damp has been rain getting in the huge gaps,
Is it necessary to go wood / sealant / plastic DPM / foam and plaster
cement filler and stone
or is it ok to put foam between the wood and stone inside,
and a thin layer of window mastic on the surface between the wood and
stone and outside air/rain?
[george]
I have been putting
in windows with dpms to isolate timber masonry contact for over 30
years and it is bog standard dry rot prevention practice.

Chris

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article
,
Rad wrote:
What is wrong with leaving it in place? If the purpose of the foam is
to gap fill and secure / insulate, then use a tube to put it behind
the area you want to put in the mastic
I personally would no bother as I suspect that a decent load of
polysulphide mastic or some 797 would do the job without it
I suspect the purpose of the lead is as a dpm (which is required for
present building regs) and is only commonsense. I have been putting
in windows with dpms to isolate timber masonry contact for over 30
years and it is bog standard dry rot prevention practice.

Interesting. I've never seen this. And the pic looks like it's a pretty
old house.

having been up the ladder and looked and thunk again
i've now squirted some flexible sealent between the lead and the wood,
and will fill the big gap between the lead and the stone with foam
and some kind of filler,
unless better ideas come along.

thanks

[g]