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Default tile vent for low pitch roof

Turns out BCO is being fussy about the roof. So, I need to compy
completely with the regs, fitting instructions etc. Roof pitch is
around 11 degrees, BCO has OK'd interlocking forticrete centurion
tiles for this, which are spec'd down to 10 degress in a monopitch
roof. But the orignal spec is for eaves and high level tile vents in
the roof. Building regs say for pitches less than 15 degrees, a high
level tile vent should be used providing equivalent of 5mm opening
along the ridge. Its a monopitch roof but joining to neighbours
monopitch roof with a wet-fixed ridge tile. So cannot have ridge
ventilation easily, and abutment vents are suitable (not a lean-to).
Now, all suitable vent tiles I can find are only spec'd to 20 degrees.
So, how can I vent the roof ?
Simon.
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Default tile vent for low pitch roof

On Mon, 18 May 2009 08:07:22 -0700 (PDT), a certain chimpanzee,
sm_jamieson randomly hit a keyboard and
produced:

Turns out BCO is being fussy about the roof. So, I need to compy
completely with the regs, fitting instructions etc. Roof pitch is
around 11 degrees, BCO has OK'd interlocking forticrete centurion
tiles for this, which are spec'd down to 10 degress in a monopitch
roof. But the orignal spec is for eaves and high level tile vents in
the roof. Building regs say for pitches less than 15 degrees, a high
level tile vent should be used providing equivalent of 5mm opening
along the ridge. Its a monopitch roof but joining to neighbours
monopitch roof with a wet-fixed ridge tile. So cannot have ridge
ventilation easily, and abutment vents are suitable (not a lean-to).
Now, all suitable vent tiles I can find are only spec'd to 20 degrees.
So, how can I vent the roof ?


Use breathable felt.
--
Hugo Nebula
"If no one on the Internet wants a piece of this,
just how far from the pack have you strayed?"
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Default tile vent for low pitch roof

On 18 May, 17:18, Hugo Nebula abuse@localhost wrote:
On Mon, 18 May 2009 08:07:22 -0700 (PDT), a certain chimpanzee,
sm_jamieson randomly hit a keyboard and
produced:

Turns out BCO is being fussy about the roof. So, I need to compy
completely with the regs, fitting instructions etc. Roof pitch is
around 11 degrees, BCO has OK'd interlocking forticrete centurion
tiles for this, which are spec'd down to 10 degress in a monopitch
roof. But the orignal spec is for eaves and high level tile vents in
the roof. Building regs say for pitches less than 15 degrees, a high
level tile vent should be used providing equivalent of 5mm opening
along the ridge. Its a monopitch roof but joining to neighbours
monopitch roof with a wet-fixed ridge tile. So cannot have ridge
ventilation easily, and abutment vents are suitable (not a lean-to).
Now, all suitable vent tiles I can find are only spec'd to 20 degrees.
So, how can I vent the roof ?


Use breathable felt.
--

That's one option, although lots of people think it doesn't really
work, and
since the roof pitch is so low, I was going to rely on the underlay as
a
waterproofing backup, so preferred impermeable underlay.
I suppose I could add some gable vents although a boiler terminal will
be
there, so this may not be possible.

However, I also need to vent an extractor fan through the roof, so
still need to find
suitable vent terminals for this (cowl vents ?).
I could use a cowl vent to vent the roof I guess, since they are
available for flat roofs,
but a row of mushrooms may look a bit funny !

Cheers,
Simon.



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Default tile vent for low pitch roof

wrote:
On 18 May, 17:18, Hugo Nebula abuse@localhost wrote:
On Mon, 18 May 2009 08:07:22 -0700 (PDT), a certain chimpanzee,
sm_jamieson randomly hit a keyboard and
produced:

Turns out BCO is being fussy about the roof. So, I need to compy
completely with the regs, fitting instructions etc. Roof pitch is
around 11 degrees, BCO has OK'd interlocking forticrete centurion
tiles for this, which are spec'd down to 10 degress in a monopitch
roof. But the orignal spec is for eaves and high level tile vents in
the roof. Building regs say for pitches less than 15 degrees, a high
level tile vent should be used providing equivalent of 5mm opening
along the ridge. Its a monopitch roof but joining to neighbours
monopitch roof with a wet-fixed ridge tile. So cannot have ridge
ventilation easily, and abutment vents are suitable (not a lean-to).
Now, all suitable vent tiles I can find are only spec'd to 20
degrees. So, how can I vent the roof ?


Use breathable felt.
--

That's one option, although lots of people think it doesn't really
work, and
since the roof pitch is so low, I was going to rely on the underlay as
a
waterproofing backup, so preferred impermeable underlay.
I suppose I could add some gable vents although a boiler terminal will
be
there, so this may not be possible.

However, I also need to vent an extractor fan through the roof, so
still need to find
suitable vent terminals for this (cowl vents ?).
I could use a cowl vent to vent the roof I guess, since they are
available for flat roofs,
but a row of mushrooms may look a bit funny !

Cheers,
Simon.


Breathable felt does work - we used it recently, along with roof vents and
the BCO pulled his face about it saying there was *too much* ventilation and
it should have had one or the other, but not both.

Also you can use soffit vents, available in strip form.

--
Phil L
RSRL Tipster Of The Year 2008


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Default tile vent for low pitch roof

wrote:
On 18 May, 17:18, Hugo Nebula abuse@localhost wrote:
On Mon, 18 May 2009 08:07:22 -0700 (PDT), a certain chimpanzee,
sm_jamieson randomly hit a keyboard and
produced:

Turns out BCO is being fussy about the roof. So, I need to compy
completely with the regs, fitting instructions etc. Roof pitch is
around 11 degrees, BCO has OK'd interlocking forticrete centurion
tiles for this, which are spec'd down to 10 degress in a monopitch
roof. But the orignal spec is for eaves and high level tile vents in
the roof. Building regs say for pitches less than 15 degrees, a high
level tile vent should be used providing equivalent of 5mm opening
along the ridge. Its a monopitch roof but joining to neighbours
monopitch roof with a wet-fixed ridge tile. So cannot have ridge
ventilation easily, and abutment vents are suitable (not a lean-to).
Now, all suitable vent tiles I can find are only spec'd to 20 degrees.
So, how can I vent the roof ?

Use breathable felt.
--

That's one option, although lots of people think it doesn't really
work, and
since the roof pitch is so low, I was going to rely on the underlay as
a
waterproofing backup, so preferred impermeable underlay.
I suppose I could add some gable vents although a boiler terminal will
be
there, so this may not be possible.

However, I also need to vent an extractor fan through the roof, so
still need to find
suitable vent terminals for this (cowl vents ?).
I could use a cowl vent to vent the roof I guess, since they are
available for flat roofs,
but a row of mushrooms may look a bit funny !

use 20 degree cappings throughout, vented?

Cheers,
Simon.





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Default tile vent for low pitch roof

On 18 May, 16:07, sm_jamieson wrote:
Turns out BCO is being fussy about the roof. So, I need to compy
completely with the regs, fitting instructions etc. Roof pitch is
around 11 degrees, BCO has OK'd interlocking forticrete centurion
tiles for this, which are spec'd down to 10 degress in a monopitch
roof. But the orignal spec is for eaves and high level tile vents in
the roof. Building regs say for pitches less than 15 degrees, a high
level tile vent should be used providing equivalent of 5mm opening
along the ridge. Its a monopitch roof but joining to neighbours
monopitch roof with a wet-fixed ridge tile. So cannot have ridge
ventilation easily, and abutment vents are suitable (not a lean-to).
Now, all suitable vent tiles I can find are only spec'd to 20 degrees.
So, how can I vent the roof ?
Simon.


How about cross battening and fit soffit/ facia vents along the 2
gable sides?
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Default tile vent for low pitch roof

On 19 May, 13:32, wrote:
On 18 May, 16:07, sm_jamieson wrote:

Turns out BCO is being fussy about the roof. So, I need to compy
completely with the regs, fitting instructions etc. Roof pitch is
around 11 degrees, BCO has OK'd interlocking forticrete centurion
tiles for this, which are spec'd down to 10 degress in a monopitch
roof. But the orignal spec is for eaves and high level tile vents in
the roof. Building regs say for pitches less than 15 degrees, a high
level tile vent should be used providing equivalent of 5mm opening
along the ridge. Its a monopitch roof but joining to neighbours
monopitch roof with a wet-fixed ridge tile. So cannot have ridge
ventilation easily, and abutment vents are suitable (not a lean-to).
Now, all suitable vent tiles I can find are only spec'd to 20 degrees.
So, how can I vent the roof ?
Simon.


How about cross battening and fit soffit/ facia vents along the 2
gable sides?


Thinking about it again, why not make it a "warm roof" and fit the
insulation on top of the rafters e.g. Superquilt. I think (but not
100% sure) that you don't need vents for this but I could be wrong...
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Default tile vent for low pitch roof

On 19 May, 13:32, wrote:
On 18 May, 16:07, sm_jamieson wrote:

Turns out BCO is being fussy about the roof. So, I need to compy
completely with the regs, fitting instructions etc. Roof pitch is
around 11 degrees, BCO has OK'd interlocking forticrete centurion
tiles for this, which are spec'd down to 10 degress in a monopitch
roof. But the orignal spec is for eaves and high level tile vents in
the roof. Building regs say for pitches less than 15 degrees, a high
level tile vent should be used providing equivalent of 5mm opening
along the ridge. Its a monopitch roof but joining to neighbours
monopitch roof with a wet-fixed ridge tile. So cannot have ridge
ventilation easily, and abutment vents are suitable (not a lean-to).
Now, all suitable vent tiles I can find are only spec'd to 20 degrees.
So, how can I vent the roof ?
Simon.


How about cross battening and fit soffit/ facia vents along the 2
gable sides?


Interesting ideas. Problem is, there is only 1 gable, i.e. the "side"
of the roof is
against an existing wall. Plus I think venting with the slope of the
roof is recommended in
order to get the airflow. Most of the roof only has 50mm airflow in
it, only the top has an apex void (a bit like a loft conversion).
Cheers,
Simon.
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Default tile vent for low pitch roof

On 19 May, 13:37, wrote:
On 19 May, 13:32, wrote:



On 18 May, 16:07, sm_jamieson wrote:


Turns out BCO is being fussy about the roof. So, I need to compy
completely with the regs, fitting instructions etc. Roof pitch is
around 11 degrees, BCO has OK'd interlocking forticrete centurion
tiles for this, which are spec'd down to 10 degress in a monopitch
roof. But the orignal spec is for eaves and high level tile vents in
the roof. Building regs say for pitches less than 15 degrees, a high
level tile vent should be used providing equivalent of 5mm opening
along the ridge. Its a monopitch roof but joining to neighbours
monopitch roof with a wet-fixed ridge tile. So cannot have ridge
ventilation easily, and abutment vents are suitable (not a lean-to).
Now, all suitable vent tiles I can find are only spec'd to 20 degrees..
So, how can I vent the roof ?
Simon.


How about cross battening and fit soffit/ facia vents along the 2
gable sides?


Thinking about it again, why not make it a "warm roof" and fit the
insulation on top of the rafters e.g. Superquilt. *I think (but not
100% sure) that you don't need vents for this but I could be wrong...


Depth and height of the roof was an issue, so a insulated deck on top
would not be possible.
Believe me I've considered all the options.
I'll probably have to use permeable underlay and add a small vent in
the apex for good measure.

Cheers,
Simon.
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Default tile vent for low pitch roof

On 19 May, 13:46, wrote:
On 19 May, 13:37, wrote:





On 19 May, 13:32, wrote:


On 18 May, 16:07, sm_jamieson wrote:


Turns out BCO is being fussy about the roof. So, I need to compy
completely with the regs, fitting instructions etc. Roof pitch is
around 11 degrees, BCO has OK'd interlocking forticrete centurion
tiles for this, which are spec'd down to 10 degress in a monopitch
roof. But the orignal spec is for eaves and high level tile vents in
the roof. Building regs say for pitches less than 15 degrees, a high
level tile vent should be used providing equivalent of 5mm opening
along the ridge. Its a monopitch roof but joining to neighbours
monopitch roof with a wet-fixed ridge tile. So cannot have ridge
ventilation easily, and abutment vents are suitable (not a lean-to)..
Now, all suitable vent tiles I can find are only spec'd to 20 degrees.
So, how can I vent the roof ?
Simon.


How about cross battening and fit soffit/ facia vents along the 2
gable sides?


Thinking about it again, why not make it a "warm roof" and fit the
insulation on top of the rafters e.g. Superquilt. *I think (but not
100% sure) that you don't need vents for this but I could be wrong...


Depth and height of the roof was an issue, so a insulated deck on top
would not be possible.
Believe me I've considered all the options.
I'll probably have to use permeable underlay and add a small vent in
the apex for good measure.

Cheers,
Simon.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I knew I read it somewhere...... Have a look at page 3.....
http://www.elmbridge.gov.uk/Elmbridg...tchedroofs.pdf

From memory, super quilt/ Tri-iso are only about 30mm and require a
25mm gap on top so this should only raise your roof height by about
55mm. Is this too much? If so, are the rafters spec'd to minimise
height e.g. reduce gaps between them/ double them up? May be able to
gain some there?


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Default tile vent for low pitch roof

On 18 May, 16:07, sm_jamieson wrote:
Turns out BCO is being fussy about the roof. So, I need to compy
completely with the regs, fitting instructions etc. Roof pitch is
around 11 degrees, BCO has OK'd interlocking forticrete centurion
tiles for this, which are spec'd down to 10 degress in a monopitch
roof. But the orignal spec is for eaves and high level tile vents in
the roof. Building regs say for pitches less than 15 degrees, a high
level tile vent should be used providing equivalent of 5mm opening
along the ridge. Its a monopitch roof but joining to neighbours
monopitch roof with a wet-fixed ridge tile. So cannot have ridge
ventilation easily, and abutment vents are suitable (not a lean-to).
Now, all suitable vent tiles I can find are only spec'd to 20 degrees.
So, how can I vent the roof ?
Simon.


I have now decided to increase the height of my ridge by about 225mm
to get the maximum roof pitch / ceiling height I can. This means my
ridge will no longer be shared with the neighbour - her roof will form
an abutment onto 3 extra courses of brick above her existing monopitch
ridge.

Therefore, I will have a vertical area of wall that could contain
airbricks to vent the roof.
Only problem is that if someone in the future chose to extend her
side, these could be blocked up.
Is it worth the risk just to get some vents in ? I could then save
money on permeable underlay.
Simon.
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Default tile vent for low pitch roof

On Wed, 20 May 2009 01:52:26 -0700 (PDT), a certain chimpanzee,
randomly hit a keyboard and produced:

I have now decided to increase the height of my ridge by about 225mm
to get the maximum roof pitch / ceiling height I can. This means my
ridge will no longer be shared with the neighbour - her roof will form
an abutment onto 3 extra courses of brick above her existing monopitch
ridge.

Therefore, I will have a vertical area of wall that could contain
airbricks to vent the roof.
Only problem is that if someone in the future chose to extend her
side, these could be blocked up.
Is it worth the risk just to get some vents in ? I could then save
money on permeable underlay.


If you're now increasing the roof pitch, you could get the tile vents
in that you first mentioned. This is by far the best solution. As you
say, putting vent bricks through the party wall is fraught with
potential problems.

If you no longer have to match ridges, then a warm roof also becomes
an option, as does a breathable membrane with counterbattens over.
Going back to your previous post, breathable membranes are just as
moisture resistant as traditional felts; the only concerns are about
whether they remove as much vapour from the roof void as traditional
ventilation, and their long-term vapour permeability (will the pores
still allow vapour through after 30-odd years of dust has collected?).
--
Hugo Nebula
"If no one on the Internet wants a piece of this,
just how far from the pack have you strayed?"
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Default tile vent for low pitch roof

On 21 May, 09:14, Hugo Nebula abuse@localhost wrote:
On Wed, 20 May 2009 01:52:26 -0700 (PDT), a certain chimpanzee,
randomly hit a keyboard and produced:

I have now decided to increase the height of my ridge by about 225mm
to get the maximum roof pitch / ceiling height I can. This means my
ridge will no longer be shared with the neighbour - her roof will form
an abutment onto 3 extra courses of brick above her existing monopitch
ridge.


Therefore, I will have a vertical area of wall that could contain
airbricks to vent the roof.
Only problem is that if someone in the future chose to extend her
side, these could be blocked up.
Is it worth the risk just to get some vents in ? I could then save
money on permeable underlay.


If you're now increasing the roof pitch, you could get the tile vents
in that you first mentioned. This is by far the best solution. As you
say, putting vent bricks through the party wall is fraught with
potential problems.

If you no longer have to match ridges, then a warm roof also becomes
an option, as does a breathable membrane with counterbattens over.
Going back to your previous post, breathable membranes are just as
moisture resistant as traditional felts; the only concerns are about
whether they remove as much vapour from the roof void as traditional
ventilation, and their long-term vapour permeability (will the pores
still allow vapour through after 30-odd years of dust has collected?).
--

Do you always need counterbattens over the permeable membrane ? I
gather that depends on
the air tightness of the tiles. Do interlocking concrete tiles need
the gap ?
Thanks,
Simon.


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Default tile vent for low pitch roof

On 21 May, 09:46, wrote:
On 21 May, 09:14, Hugo Nebula abuse@localhost wrote:

On Wed, 20 May 2009 01:52:26 -0700 (PDT), a certain chimpanzee,
randomly hit a keyboard and produced:


I have now decided to increase the height of my ridge by about 225mm
to get the maximum roof pitch / ceiling height I can. This means my
ridge will no longer be shared with the neighbour - her roof will form
an abutment onto 3 extra courses of brick above her existing monopitch
ridge.


Therefore, I will have a vertical area of wall that could contain
airbricks to vent the roof.
Only problem is that if someone in the future chose to extend her
side, these could be blocked up.
Is it worth the risk just to get some vents in ? I could then save
money on permeable underlay.


If you're now increasing the roof pitch, you could get the tile vents
in that you first mentioned. This is by far the best solution. As you
say, putting vent bricks through the party wall is fraught with
potential problems.


If you no longer have to match ridges, then a warm roof also becomes
an option, as does a breathable membrane with counterbattens over.
Going back to your previous post, breathable membranes are just as
moisture resistant as traditional felts; the only concerns are about
whether they remove as much vapour from the roof void as traditional
ventilation, and their long-term vapour permeability (will the pores
still allow vapour through after 30-odd years of dust has collected?).
--


Do you always need counterbattens over the permeable membrane ? I
gather that depends on
the air tightness of the tiles. Do interlocking concrete tiles need
the gap ?
Thanks,
Simon.


I just read that counterbattens are not usually required if the
membrane is draped
rather than pulled taught. Since it will be draped (10mm), I may not
need counterbattens.
Simon.
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Default tile vent for low pitch roof

On 21 May, 10:05, wrote:
On 21 May, 09:46, wrote:



On 21 May, 09:14, Hugo Nebula abuse@localhost wrote:


On Wed, 20 May 2009 01:52:26 -0700 (PDT), a certain chimpanzee,
randomly hit a keyboard and produced:


I have now decided to increase the height of my ridge by about 225mm
to get the maximum roof pitch / ceiling height I can. This means my
ridge will no longer be shared with the neighbour - her roof will form
an abutment onto 3 extra courses of brick above her existing monopitch
ridge.


Therefore, I will have a vertical area of wall that could contain
airbricks to vent the roof.
Only problem is that if someone in the future chose to extend her
side, these could be blocked up.
Is it worth the risk just to get some vents in ? I could then save
money on permeable underlay.


If you're now increasing the roof pitch, you could get the tile vents
in that you first mentioned. This is by far the best solution. As you
say, putting vent bricks through the party wall is fraught with
potential problems.


If you no longer have to match ridges, then a warm roof also becomes
an option, as does a breathable membrane with counterbattens over.
Going back to your previous post, breathable membranes are just as
moisture resistant as traditional felts; the only concerns are about
whether they remove as much vapour from the roof void as traditional
ventilation, and their long-term vapour permeability (will the pores
still allow vapour through after 30-odd years of dust has collected?).
--


Do you always need counterbattens over the permeable membrane ? I
gather that depends on
the air tightness of the tiles. Do interlocking concrete tiles need
the gap ?
Thanks,
Simon.


I just read that counterbattens are not usually required if the
membrane is draped
rather than pulled taught. Since it will be draped (10mm), I may not
need counterbattens.
Simon.


All this reading. Apparently you have to ventilate under the membrane
(cold roof) or
over the membrane (warm roof) anyway, so you would still need vents in
the eave and
ridge for a monopitch roof. I looked in part C and it had little
information on roofs.
If I vented in the gable, I would need 4 standard plastic air bricks,
and I have a boiler terminal
nearby, so this is getting a bit tricky. I could solve it with a
parapet wall and abutment, but I really don't want that appearance.
Simon.



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Default tile vent for low pitch roof

On 21 May, 10:33, Hugo Nebula abuse@localhost wrote:
On Thu, 21 May 2009 01:46:44 -0700 (PDT), a certain chimpanzee,
randomly hit a keyboard and produced:

Do you always need counterbattens over the permeable membrane ? I
gather that depends on
the air tightness of the tiles. Do interlocking concrete tiles need
the gap ?


Just throwing an extra suggestion into the mix.

Q1 - Not always, but if headroom inside is important, it allows you to
fully fill the depth of the joists with insulation rather than leaving
a void over and having to insulate under the rafters.


The roof is a vaulted roof with a small roof void near the apex. The
design requires several 225mm purlins due to the low pitch, and the
gap between these purlins will be fully filled with glass fibre
insulation. The BCO also wanted 20mm celotex under the entire roof
structure to reduce cold bridging. The rafters above the purlins are
left empty to allow ventilation.
The roof was to be vented at the eaves and by tile ventilators. It is
only since I found the tile vents are only spec'd for 20 degrees or
more, else they may let in water, that I have had to rethink.


Q2 - The BS does say that concrete interlocking tiles should be vented
above the membrane, but it's something that rarely gets pulled up on
site.
--

But its a bit of a risk if you've done the roof without and you do get
pulled.
I guess then, put in the counterbattens (are they just 25 x 38 roofing
battens ?), and
why not eaves vents, but not bother at the ridge. But then, the eave
vents might just
get the BCO thinking along those lines.
Simon.


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Default tile vent for low pitch roof

On 21 May, 11:04, wrote:
On 21 May, 10:33, Hugo Nebula abuse@localhost wrote:

On Thu, 21 May 2009 01:46:44 -0700 (PDT), a certain chimpanzee,
randomly hit a keyboard and produced:


Do you always need counterbattens over the permeable membrane ? I
gather that depends on
the air tightness of the tiles. Do interlocking concrete tiles need
the gap ?


Just throwing an extra suggestion into the mix.


Q1 - Not always, but if headroom inside is important, it allows you to
fully fill the depth of the joists with insulation rather than leaving
a void over and having to insulate under the rafters.


The roof is a vaulted roof with a small roof void near the apex. The
design requires several 225mm purlins due to the low pitch, and the
gap between these purlins will be fully filled with glass fibre
insulation. The BCO also wanted 20mm celotex under the entire roof
structure to reduce cold bridging. The rafters above the purlins are
left empty to allow ventilation.
The roof was to be vented at the eaves and by tile ventilators. It is
only since I found the tile vents are only spec'd for 20 degrees or
more, else they may let in water, that I have had to rethink.



Q2 - The BS does say that concrete interlocking tiles should be vented
above the membrane, but it's something that rarely gets pulled up on
site.
--


But its a bit of a risk if you've done the roof without and you do get
pulled.
I guess then, put in the counterbattens (are they just 25 x 38 roofing
battens ?), and
why not eaves vents, but not bother at the ridge. But then, the eave
vents might just
get the BCO thinking along those lines.
Simon.


I'm looking into the forticrete mono pitch dry ridge system.
Just waiting for them to tell me it cannot be used a low pitch ;-
Simon.
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Default tile vent for low pitch roof

On 21 May, 12:18, Hugo Nebula abuse@localhost wrote:
On Thu, 21 May 2009 03:04:04 -0700 (PDT), a certain chimpanzee,
randomly hit a keyboard and produced:

The roof is a vaulted roof with a small roof void near the apex. The
design requires several 225mm purlins due to the low pitch, and the
gap between these purlins will be fully filled with glass fibre
insulation. The BCO also wanted 20mm celotex under the entire roof
structure to reduce cold bridging. The rafters above the purlins are
left empty to allow ventilation.


What gap between the purlins? By 'purlins', I assume you mean the
timbers that run parallel with your wall plate and have rafters over
them at right angles? If you are, and you say you need several, that
suggests a roof spanning at least 6-8m from wall plate to ridge! If
you're not, I've not a clue how you're roof is constructed.

If you can afford to lower your ceiling by 225mm, then headroom was
never an issue. So why couldn't you have lowered your wallplate to get
you the pitch you needed?

I'm confused. And also a little bit sad for becoming involved in all
of this on a day off :-(
--


Oh, sorry for that ;-) Go and have a beer !

Roof ridge to eaves about 5 metres, vaulted roof, on sideways across
the back of the house.
Basically, a low pitch roof (about 11 degrees) or anything less than
15 degrees should be designed like a flat roof, since most of the load
is downward, also meaning that thicker rafters are needed. That was
according to tables in the older part A. The design is 225mm purlins
every 730mm, and the "rafters" are really counterbattens (50mm), so
the primary structural component is the purlins. The direction of the
purlins is the shorter dimension, and at this pitch with usual
rafters, they would have to be about nearly 225mm also, and follow the
roof pitch all the way down, thus cutting off more headroom at the
lowest part, despite losing the 50mm. WIth the purlins, the lowest
purlin is 730mm from the bottom of the roof, and beyond this the
ceiling can be flattened out, thus increaseing head height at the
lowest point.
The pitch is constrained by the required head height, and originally
the ridge of next door, but now I am building higher, by a window over
the side abutment.
Roof designed passed by Struct Eng. Think of metal framed buildings
with metal roofs for the idea of serveral purlins and thinner members
resting on them.
It does make sense and does improve lower head height for constrainted
pitch, whilst importantly also enabling most of the insulation to be
lost in the thickness of the roof.
I should have posted a diagram.

Why am I putting the roof on "sideways" across the back of my house
and not the usual way round ? Well partly to mirror the next door
(which has a much smaller extension, this steeper pitch etc), but also
to put a lovely high ceiling and arched window in the end wall of the
kitchen where it will look cool !

Or maybe I should just put on a flat roof and felt.

Now you can finish your jug of foaming ale !

Simon.




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Default tile vent for low pitch roof

On Thu, 21 May 2009 05:40:40 -0700 (PDT), a certain chimpanzee,
randomly hit a keyboard and produced:

Roof ridge to eaves about 5 metres, vaulted roof, on sideways across
the back of the house.
Basically, a low pitch roof (about 11 degrees) or anything less than
15 degrees should be designed like a flat roof, since most of the load
is downward, also meaning that thicker rafters are needed. That was
according to tables in the older part A. The design is 225mm purlins
every 730mm, and the "rafters" are really counterbattens (50mm), so
the primary structural component is the purlins. The direction of the
purlins is the shorter dimension, and at this pitch with usual
rafters, they would have to be about nearly 225mm also, and follow the
roof pitch all the way down, thus cutting off more headroom at the
lowest part, despite losing the 50mm. WIth the purlins, the lowest
purlin is 730mm from the bottom of the roof, and beyond this the
ceiling can be flattened out, thus increaseing head height at the
lowest point.


Ah, now I understand.

Here's a suggestion: lay 50mm Celotex between the 50mm 'rafters' to
create a warm roof. I haven't done the calcs, but you probably won't
need to insulate under the purlins. You would still need to
counterbatten over but only with 25mm or 19mm battens. Also, strictly
speaking, you still need to ventilate the void over the membrane, but
speak to your BCO who may be prepared to overlook this. Even if not,
you could use a vented monopitch ridge.
--
Hugo Nebula
"If no one on the Internet wants a piece of this,
just how far from the pack have you strayed?"
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Default tile vent for low pitch roof

On 24 May, 15:43, Hugo Nebula abuse@localhost wrote:
On Thu, 21 May 2009 05:40:40 -0700 (PDT), a certain chimpanzee,
randomly hit a keyboard and produced:

Roof ridge to eaves about 5 metres, vaulted roof, on sideways across
the back of the house.
Basically, a low pitch roof (about 11 degrees) or anything less than
15 degrees should be designed like a flat roof, since most of the load
is downward, also meaning that thicker rafters are needed. That was
according to tables in the older part A. The design is 225mm purlins
every 730mm, and the "rafters" are really counterbattens (50mm), so
the primary structural component is the purlins. The direction of the
purlins is the shorter dimension, and at this pitch with usual
rafters, they would have to be about nearly 225mm also, and follow the
roof pitch all the way down, thus cutting off more headroom at the
lowest part, despite losing the 50mm. WIth the purlins, the lowest
purlin is 730mm from the bottom of the roof, and beyond this the
ceiling can be flattened out, thus increaseing head height at the
lowest point.


Ah, now I understand.

Here's a suggestion: lay 50mm Celotex between the 50mm 'rafters' to
create a warm roof. I haven't done the calcs, but you probably won't
need to insulate under the purlins. You would still need to
counterbatten over but only with 25mm or 19mm battens. Also, strictly
speaking, you still need to ventilate the void over the membrane, but
speak to your BCO who may be prepared to overlook this. Even if not,
you could use a vented monopitch ridge.
--

Hi, thanks for the ideas.
BCO is wanting me to use forticrete centurion tiles, since there is a
spec for down to 10 degrees for a simple monopitch roof.
I've just heard the centurion dry vented mono ridge is not spec'd
below 12.5 degrees, and I'll not risk the venting issue with BCO. If I
stick with the cold roof and have eaves vent and gable vents it should
be OK. I was going to have a projecting verge on the gable, and I'll
hide several vents into the gable under this. The boiler vent will be
below 60cm lower, so no problems there I don't think.
Thanks for your time,
Simon.

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