As the 'first' OP with the **silicon** typo (it was that no more),
which clearly allowed the pendants hanging around here to shine their
lights, I've another question.

Many years ago I assembled the bathroom sink into a piece of marble.
There are several joints around the marble which were made with
silicone, but in my ignorance in those days I made the silicone joints
with minimum to zero bead, which has resulted in one going crinkly and
the other joints looking grotty.

Bearing in mind that there is virtually no bead, can I just now go
over these joints with fresh silicone, having done a scrupulous clean
of course, and bead them properly ?

Thanks

Rob

Bearing in mind that there is virtually no bead, can I just now go
over these joints with fresh silicone, having done a scrupulous clean
of course, and bead them properly ?
Why not rake out the old silicone with a Stanley knife or similar and
redo. I would think this would adhere much better. I recently had to
do this on my shower, which was installed about 3 years ago. It didn't
take long.

robgraham wrote:

Many years ago I assembled the bathroom sink into a piece of marble.
There are several joints around the marble which were made with
silicone, but in my ignorance in those days I made the silicone joints
with minimum to zero bead, which has resulted in one going crinkly and
the other joints looking grotty.

Bearing in mind that there is virtually no bead, can I just now go
over these joints with fresh silicone, having done a scrupulous clean
of course, and bead them properly ?


Silicone adheres well to almost any dry surface, except silicone.

There's no quick fix here, you will need to remove as much of the old
silicone as practicable. The fresh silicone is very unlikely to adhere
to anything you don't remove.

Silicone adheres well to almost any dry surface, except silicone.



The most recent stuff I used doesn't stick to the spout on the
cartridge. Put a screw in the base it and pulled out easily, much to my
surprise.

Stuart Noble wrote:

Silicone adheres well to almost any dry surface, except silicone.



The most recent stuff I used doesn't stick to the spout on the
cartridge. Put a screw in the base it and pulled out easily, much to my
surprise.

I haven't found silicone sticks to anything at all. It seems to adhere
by suction. Its usually easy to pull it off anything..

robgraham wrote:
As the 'first' OP with the **silicon** typo (it was that no more),
which clearly allowed the pendants hanging around here to shine their
lights, I've another question.

No comment on that one. LOL

Many years ago I assembled the bathroom sink into a piece of marble.
There are several joints around the marble which were made with
silicone, but in my ignorance in those days I made the silicone joints
with minimum to zero bead, which has resulted in one going crinkly and
the other joints looking grotty.

Bearing in mind that there is virtually no bead, can I just now go
over these joints with fresh silicone, having done a scrupulous clean
of course, and bead them properly ?

Not if you want a lasting job.

Scrape out the old beading as deeply as possible into the joint[s] and clean
the areas as thoroughly as possible to remove soap, grease and old silicone
residues.

Once that is done, apply the sealant to the joint and then push it down into
the joints for as deep as you can get it [1] and then either using a finger
(or relevant tool) dress the surface of the sealant to the required finish.

[1] Mastic or silicone [2] sealant performs better when there is a
relatively large amount in the opening, as it works by forming a skin on the
'outside' of the bead, leaving the core soft and flexible to do its job
properly (in your case, that may not be possible because of the lack of
width in the joint[s] - hence your problem).

The ideal *minimum* thickness of this type of sealant is usually about a
quarter of an inch thick - any less than this and it completely dries out in
a very short time.

That is why I try to leave around a three eighths of an inch gap (bigger if
possible) around door and window frames enabling a good thickness of the
goo, and ensuring a flexible and long-lasting weather seal.

[2] For the pedantic[s] amongst the group - there is a difference
between the two.


Cash


--
The ancient Romans built their greatest masterpieces of architecture, their
amphitheaters, for wild beasts to fight in.

(Voltaire)

"Cash" wrote:

[2] For the pedantic[s] amongst the group - there is a difference
between the two.


I think you meant "pedants".

Clearly your grasp of the English language is extremely poor.
Perhaps you should consider adult education classes?

Gib Bogle wrote:
robgraham wrote:
As the 'first' OP with the **silicon** typo (it was that no more),
which clearly allowed the pendants hanging around here to shine their
lights, I've another question.

That's "pedants", not "pendants", which means hanging things - perhaps
you are making a joke?
;-)


Hoist by his own pendant. ;-)

robgraham wrote:
As the 'first' OP with the **silicon** typo (it was that no more),
which clearly allowed the pendants hanging around here to shine their
lights, I've another question.

That's "pedants", not "pendants", which means hanging things - perhaps
you are making a joke?
;-)

On 17 Mar, 18:45, "Cash"
wrote:
robgraham wrote:
As the 'first' OP with the **silicon** typo (it was that no more),
which clearly allowed the pendants hanging around here to shine their
lights, I've another question.

No comment on that one. LOL

Many years ago I assembled the bathroom sink into a piece of marble.
There are several joints around the marble which were made with
silicone, but in my ignorance in those days I made the silicone joints
with minimum to zero bead, which has resulted in one going crinkly and
the other joints looking grotty.
Bearing in mind that there is virtually no bead, can I just now go
over these joints with fresh silicone, having done a scrupulous clean
of course, and bead them properly ?

Not if you want a lasting job.

Scrape out the old beading as deeply as possible into the joint[s] and clean
the areas as thoroughly as *possible to remove soap, grease and old silicone
residues.

Once that is done, apply the sealant to the joint and then push it down into
the joints for as deep as you can get it [1] and then either using a finger
(or relevant tool) dress the surface of the sealant to the required finish.

[1] * *Mastic or silicone [2] sealant performs better when there is a
relatively large amount in the opening, as it works by forming a skin on the
'outside' of the bead, leaving the core soft and flexible to do its job
properly (in your case, that may not be possible because of the lack of
width in the joint[s] - hence your problem).

The ideal *minimum* thickness of this type of sealant is usually about a
quarter of an inch thick - any less than this and it completely dries out in
a very short time.

That is why I try to leave around a three eighths of an inch gap (bigger if
possible) around door and window frames enabling a good thickness of the
goo, and ensuring a flexible and long-lasting weather seal.

[2] * * For the pedantic[s] amongst the group - there is a difference
between the two.

Cash

--
The ancient Romans built their greatest masterpieces of architecture, their
amphitheaters, for wild beasts to fight in.

(Voltaire)

Thanks for that - the basic construction was wrong then in that I
created a shelf behind the main surface and just sat the upstand on it
with some goo along the joint. The tiling to marble joint is not that
much bigger.

I'll do the scrape out, but I'm now wondering if there is another
material that bonds better than silicone to seal what is really rather
a narrow gap. Any guidance guys ?

Rob

Bruce wrote:
"Cash" wrote:

[2] For the pedantic[s] amongst the group - there is a difference
between the two.


I think you meant "pedants".

Clearly your grasp of the English language is extremely poor.
Perhaps you should consider adult education classes?

Goodnight Brucie boy - methinks that you are better qualified as an Engleesh
teacheher than a D-i-Yeer! Gid help your studentts!

Cash
--
It is hard to free fools from the chains they revere.

(Voltaire)

Stuart Noble wrote:
Silicone adheres well to almost any dry surface, except silicone.



The most recent stuff I used doesn't stick to the spout on the
cartridge. Put a screw in the base it and pulled out easily, much to my
surprise.


That's why I said *almost* any. ;-)

The spout is probably made of a material that is impregnated with some
kind of oil that means even silicone won't stick to it.