Hi, not dead (yet) - just been tied up

(I hope this works - just put this new "Gallery2" software on my web server)

Anyway:

http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bu..._0038.jpg.html

shows I've just stripped the walls prior to chasing in for electrical runs
(lovely yellow paint!)

I was wondering what to do with the coving that you will be able to just see
at the top of the wall (I want to keep it):

a) I could either try to use a cranked SDS chasing chisel to chase up behind
the coving, with no hope of plastering in that last 3 inches - using
conduit so this doesn't seem to be a big problem...

b) Cut out a small section of coving, chase and replaster, then stick the
coving section back and try to make it good.

What would you do? I'm veering towards a)...

Option c) which is to pull off all the coving and replace seems wasteful and
extra work - it's decent plaster coving up there, not polystyrene.

Thoughts gratefully received...

*****




On an aside:

Here's a 30 quid mixer I got off a mate:

http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bu..._0041.jpg.html
http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bu..._0043.jpg.html

Due to the leg being rotton, it was a bit wobbly (it's heavy, so wobbly is
quite dangerous, as in fall over and kill a kid dangerous) - so Mr Heath
and Mr Robinson came up with the idea of setting the leg in a plant pot of
concrete to give some stability


*****

On another aside...

And for what it's worth, those floorheater.co.uk underfloor heating panels I
was wittering on about a few weeks back:

Well, here's a test sample fitted, to see how strong it all is:

http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bu..._0044.jpg.html
http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bu..._0045.jpg.html
http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bu..._0047.jpg.html

Seems quite tough - I can't dislodge any tiles nor the polystryrene panel
from the floor. One comment I have to make is that the tiles are no longer
sitting on a solid substrate as they might be if glued down to screed on
concrete. I used a small rubber mallet to give them some abuse and managed
to make a hairline crack in one. Granted they are thin tiles, but the
reason it cracked is because the UFH panel is quite elastic.

Translating this into a real application, I could see that dropping
something heavy onto a floor lined with this type of UFH panel might crack
the tiles, whereas they'd probably survive is mounted conventionally...

But this is why we do tests on samples

Cheers

Tim

Tim S wrote:

Hi, not dead (yet) - just been tied up

Glad to hear you got free! (well depends on who tied you up and why I
suppose ;-)

I was wondering what to do with the coving that you will be able to just see
at the top of the wall (I want to keep it):

a) I could either try to use a cranked SDS chasing chisel to chase up behind
the coving, with no hope of plastering in that last 3 inches - using
conduit so this doesn't seem to be a big problem...

That is usually the way to go. There are variations on this theme:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?..._and_skirtings

b) Cut out a small section of coving, chase and replaster, then stick the
coving section back and try to make it good.

Seems like hard work - and chances are you will always see the result.

On an aside:

Here's a 30 quid mixer I got off a mate:

http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bu..._0041.jpg.html
http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bu..._0043.jpg.html

Due to the leg being rotton, it was a bit wobbly (it's heavy, so wobbly is
quite dangerous, as in fall over and kill a kid dangerous) - so Mr Heath
and Mr Robinson came up with the idea of setting the leg in a plant pot of
concrete to give some stability

Hmmm nice ;-)

(I think this is one of the uses for bits of scrap and an arc welder!)


*****

On another aside...

And for what it's worth, those floorheater.co.uk underfloor heating panels I
was wittering on about a few weeks back:

Well, here's a test sample fitted, to see how strong it all is:

http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bu..._0044.jpg.html
http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bu..._0045.jpg.html
http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bu..._0047.jpg.html

Seems quite tough - I can't dislodge any tiles nor the polystryrene panel
from the floor. One comment I have to make is that the tiles are no longer
sitting on a solid substrate as they might be if glued down to screed on
concrete. I used a small rubber mallet to give them some abuse and managed
to make a hairline crack in one. Granted they are thin tiles, but the
reason it cracked is because the UFH panel is quite elastic.

Translating this into a real application, I could see that dropping
something heavy onto a floor lined with this type of UFH panel might crack
the tiles, whereas they'd probably survive is mounted conventionally...

But this is why we do tests on samples

A thicker bed of tile adhesive could mitigate here. Failing that you
need include an assessment of the likely reduction in losses of the
things being dropped! (i.e. if something expensive bounces rather than
breaks, you may be better off foking out for a new tile!)

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article ,
Tim S wrote:
I was wondering what to do with the coving that you will be able to just
see at the top of the wall (I want to keep it):

Remove enough plaster carefully below it to get a drill in as parallel to
the wall as possible and carefully and slowly drill up behind it. The
carefully is because a nice old cornice is well worth preserving. Although
the plaster they're made of doesn't seem to go 'live' like normal old
stuff.

--
*Dancing is a perpendicular expression of a horizontal desire *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Tim S wrote:
Hi, not dead (yet) - just been tied up

(I hope this works - just put this new "Gallery2" software on my web server)

Anyway:

http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bu..._0038.jpg.html

shows I've just stripped the walls prior to chasing in for electrical runs
(lovely yellow paint!)

I was wondering what to do with the coving that you will be able to just see
at the top of the wall (I want to keep it):

Can you get to it from above, by removing some flooring? Possibly it
might be easier to drill downwards, rather than upwards. You could go
into the plaster and the wall behind the coving, then drill a hole
beneath the coving to meet up with it.

Regards
Richard

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
Tim S wrote:
I was wondering what to do with the coving that you will be able to just
see at the top of the wall (I want to keep it):

Remove enough plaster carefully below it to get a drill in as parallel to
the wall as possible and carefully and slowly drill up behind it. The
carefully is because a nice old cornice is well worth preserving. Although
the plaster they're made of doesn't seem to go 'live' like normal old
stuff.

Did lots like that, no problems.
Lounge and study had 20" of fancy plasterwork, so wall lights come UP
from the floor. Switches as well.
An Alidil wall chaser would have been supremely handy!.

Thanks everyone!

I think I'll give it a go with my cranked chisel bit, maybe running a drill
up first to clear the plaster.

One thing I maybe didn't mention is that most of these chases *may* contain
one section of 20mm round conduit for ELV, so the brick needs to be cut too
(plaster is about 10mm thick). The cranked chisel will probably do that
better under the coving.

However, if it's all too yuk to do that, I could replace the 20mm with
2x16mm oval. It's to do with the fact that the ELV circuits will be wired
later and will involve upto 4 cables of more than one type (eg Cat5e/aerial
coax/SELV control flex/loudspeaker cable) so I need to allow a bit more
conduit space to make sure I can get stuff down easily on demand.

Mind you, thinking about it - as I'm grouping 2-4 euromod positions with a
double 13A socket which itself may need a vertical drop, it might be easier
just to knock all the plaster off for the full width of a double backbox,
lay 4x16mm oval onto the brick and replaster one wide chase rather than
several little ones... I think most of my plaster is deep enough for oval,
but as usual I expect to be caught out...

Thinking aloud...

I'll come back when I tried some next week...

Cheers

Tim

"Tim S" wrote in message
...
Hi, not dead (yet) - just been tied up

(I hope this works - just put this new "Gallery2" software on my web
server)

Anyway:

http://photos.dionic.net/v/public/bu..._0038.jpg.html

shows I've just stripped the walls prior to chasing in for electrical runs
(lovely yellow paint!)

I was wondering what to do with the coving that you will be able to just
see
at the top of the wall (I want to keep it):

a) I could either try to use a cranked SDS chasing chisel to chase up
behind
the coving, with no hope of plastering in that last 3 inches - using
conduit so this doesn't seem to be a big problem...


Try a) first. It does not matter that there will be no plaster behing the
coving covering the wires/conduit.

You might find that you have to put a very small bend into the top of the
conduit to get it behind the coving.

Adam