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So for those who have actually tried it,

how did you get the flame sensing (referenced to earth) to work, or have
you referenced it to neutral, or what ?



--
geoff
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geoff wrote:


So for those who have actually tried it,

how did you get the flame sensing (referenced to earth) to work, or have
you referenced it to neutral, or what ?


Not tried it, but;

I would have thought you would need to TT the genny... strap neutral to
the chassis[1], and an earth stake, 100mA RCD on the output, and then
connect the boiler earth to your TT earth.

Making sure the output is floating to start with ;-)

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In article ,
geoff writes:


So for those who have actually tried it,

how did you get the flame sensing (referenced to earth) to work, or have
you referenced it to neutral, or what ?


I've tried a Potterton Profile running from an inverter,
and that worked fine. System would have still be grounded
through all the pipework, and the inverter has neutral and
earth internally connected.

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Andrew Gabriel
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On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 22:48:34 +0000, geoff wrote:

So for those who have actually tried it,

how did you get the flame sensing (referenced to earth) to work, or have
you referenced it to neutral, or what ?



It just worked for me. Neutral and earth were already connected together
inside the generator.
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In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Piers Finlayson wrote:

On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 22:48:34 +0000, geoff wrote:

So for those who have actually tried it,

how did you get the flame sensing (referenced to earth) to work, or
have you referenced it to neutral, or what ?



It just worked for me. Neutral and earth were already connected
together inside the generator.


N & E are *not* automatically connected in my genny - the output is fully
floating. But I connected them, using a 13A plug with a wire connected
between N & E in one of the two outlets, and the extension lead (with an RCD
plug on the end) to the boiler in the other outlet.

[I did initially connect them using a large resistor (100w light bulb)
rather than a piece of wire - to make sure nothing nasty would happen. I
found that N was happy to be strapped to E - with no voltage measurable
across the light bulb, so then fitted the bit of wire.]

In order to do this, of course, the boiler has to fed from a conveniently
located 13A plug rather than an FCU. I re-wired my heating a while ago to
take all its power fron a 13A socket near the boiler rather than from an FCU
in the airing cupboard. As John Rumm says, it's also very desirable
(necessary even?) to ground the genny chassis using an earth spike. I
installed a spike at the same time as re-wiring the boiler.
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Roger
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In message , Roger Mills
writes
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Piers Finlayson wrote:

On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 22:48:34 +0000, geoff wrote:

So for those who have actually tried it,

how did you get the flame sensing (referenced to earth) to work, or
have you referenced it to neutral, or what ?



It just worked for me. Neutral and earth were already connected
together inside the generator.


N & E are *not* automatically connected in my genny - the output is fully
floating. But I connected them, using a 13A plug with a wire connected
between N & E in one of the two outlets, and the extension lead (with an RCD
plug on the end) to the boiler in the other outlet.

[I did initially connect them using a large resistor (100w light bulb)
rather than a piece of wire - to make sure nothing nasty would happen. I
found that N was happy to be strapped to E - with no voltage measurable
across the light bulb, so then fitted the bit of wire.]

In order to do this, of course, the boiler has to fed from a conveniently
located 13A plug rather than an FCU. I re-wired my heating a while ago to
take all its power fron a 13A socket near the boiler rather than from an FCU
in the airing cupboard. As John Rumm says, it's also very desirable
(necessary even?) to ground the genny chassis using an earth spike. I
installed a spike at the same time as re-wiring the boiler.


So, more or less as I expected

cheers


--
geoff
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