As I understand it, a gas pipe, where installation pipes are not separated
by electrical insulating material, they shall be spaced as follows:

a) at least 150 mm away from electricity meters and associated excess
current controls, electrical switches or sockets, distribution boards or
consumer units;
b) at least 25 mm away from electricity supply and distribution cables.

I have a gas pipe installed against a wall, and I would like to install the
consumer unit on this same wall by placing battens on the wall, and a piece
of wood across, so the pipes are then running behind the CU.

I assume MDF doesn't count as electrical insulating material (or does it?)
so can I simply encase the gas pipe in some trunking (so it can be installed
on an already connected pipe!) like this
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MTMIN4.html

Or is there something better to mount to the battens first, then screw the
MDF to?

I am trying to avoid having to bring the CU out from the wall by 150mm you
see!

Thanks :-)

If you have to do this, using platerboard or cementboard in a sandwich
with ply/chipboard may be better, as these first two materials are
properly fireproof.

wrote:
If you have to do this, using plasterboard or cementboard in a sandwich
with ply/chipboard may be better, as these first two materials are
properly fireproof.

I don't think it is to do with being fireproof, as I have read that PVC
coated copper pipe meets the requirements!

I am not really sure the reason for having this if this really is the case!

"Toby" wrote in message
...
wrote:
If you have to do this, using plasterboard or cementboard in a sandwich
with ply/chipboard may be better, as these first two materials are
properly fireproof.

I don't think it is to do with being fireproof, as I have read that PVC
coated copper pipe meets the requirements!

I am not really sure the reason for having this if this really is the
case!


If you have a blow back from an electrical appliance, the resultant spark
can actually blow a hole in nearby or touching copper pipe. Like striking a
welder on the surface of any metal object, the copper will melt at that spot
where it is touched.

A workshop in the same estate as ours had a short across something or other.
It blew back along the earth conductors and found a loose earthing strap on
the mains water pipe. The loose strap arced over and blew a hole in the
pipe. The water jet was strong enough to spray across all the office desks
and it destroyed a lot of the paperwork and a printer.

That's why the spacing is needed, and all earth bonding to made as tight as
is possible to all pipework.

BigWallop wrote:
I don't think it is to do with being fireproof, as I have read that
PVC coated copper pipe meets the requirements!

I am not really sure the reason for having this if this really is
the case!


If you have a blow back from an electrical appliance, the resultant
spark can actually blow a hole in nearby or touching copper pipe.
Like striking a welder on the surface of any metal object, the copper
will melt at that spot where it is touched.

A workshop in the same estate as ours had a short across something or
other. It blew back along the earth conductors and found a loose
earthing strap on the mains water pipe. The loose strap arced over
and blew a hole in the pipe. The water jet was strong enough to
spray across all the office desks and it destroyed a lot of the
paperwork and a printer.

That's why the spacing is needed, and all earth bonding to made as
tight as is possible to all pipework.

Thanks for the explanation!

So, if the CU is mounted on a MDF board, and the copper pipe is incased in
PVC trunking, I assume this will prevent this from happening!?!

"Toby" wrote in message
...
BigWallop wrote:
I don't think it is to do with being fireproof, as I have read that
PVC coated copper pipe meets the requirements!

I am not really sure the reason for having this if this really is
the case!


If you have a blow back from an electrical appliance, the resultant
spark can actually blow a hole in nearby or touching copper pipe.
Like striking a welder on the surface of any metal object, the copper
will melt at that spot where it is touched.

A workshop in the same estate as ours had a short across something or
other. It blew back along the earth conductors and found a loose
earthing strap on the mains water pipe. The loose strap arced over
and blew a hole in the pipe. The water jet was strong enough to
spray across all the office desks and it destroyed a lot of the
paperwork and a printer.

That's why the spacing is needed, and all earth bonding to made as
tight as is possible to all pipework.

Thanks for the explanation!

So, if the CU is mounted on a MDF board, and the copper pipe is incased in
PVC trunking, I assume this will prevent this from happening!?!


That should be fine, but what thickness of MDF are you using? MDF will
soften in moist atmospheres, so make sure the MDF is strong enough to hold
the weight of the CU and all the bits and bobs that you're putting in it.

For a secure fixing on the CU, I find using a piece of flooring grade
chipboard works perfectly. Consumer Units are heavier than you think, so
need something robust to keep them on the wall. Flooring board is just what
the doctor ordered for this type job.