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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Lowering basement floor
Hi,
I live in a late georgian/early victorian townhouse. The basement is currently 218 cm from concrete floor to exposed ceiling joist. We are moving our kitchen into the basement, and planning to fit some underfloor heating and insulating boards. I'm quite tall and want to keep the ceiling height as high as possible. The builder has dug a trench for a drain, and we've found that the concrete floor is approx 10cm deep, then turns into brick below that, Other than the work itself, would there be any problem in removing the concrete layer completely, then re-laying the boards and tiles onto a much thinner layer of concrete or screed? I'm assuming that if the brick was the original floor layer, then this is unlikely to cause structural problems. If we did do this, should we do anything to make sure we don't get damp coming up? Thanks, Miles |
#2
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Lowering basement floor
On Mon, 20 Oct 2008 13:37:50 -0700 (PDT), miles
wrote: Hi, I live in a late georgian/early victorian townhouse. The basement is currently 218 cm from concrete floor to exposed ceiling joist. We are moving our kitchen into the basement, and planning to fit some underfloor heating and insulating boards. I'm quite tall and want to keep the ceiling height as high as possible. The builder has dug a trench for a drain, and we've found that the concrete floor is approx 10cm deep, then turns into brick below that, Other than the work itself, would there be any problem in removing the concrete layer completely, then re-laying the boards and tiles onto a much thinner layer of concrete or screed? I'm assuming that if the brick was the original floor layer, then this is unlikely to cause structural problems. If we did do this, should we do anything to make sure we don't get damp coming up? Thanks, Miles You should consult an expert on this. Georgian houses are not noted for actually having foundations, just bricks laid on soil. ) |
#3
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Lowering basement floor
In article
, miles wrote: I live in a late georgian/early victorian townhouse. The basement is currently 218 cm from concrete floor to exposed ceiling joist. We are moving our kitchen into the basement, and planning to fit some underfloor heating and insulating boards. I'm quite tall and want to keep the ceiling height as high as possible. The builder has dug a trench for a drain, and we've found that the concrete floor is approx 10cm deep, then turns into brick below that, Other than the work itself, would there be any problem in removing the concrete layer completely, then re-laying the boards and tiles onto a much thinner layer of concrete or screed? I'm assuming that if the brick was the original floor layer, then this is unlikely to cause structural problems. If we did do this, should we do anything to make sure we don't get damp coming up? It's not damp I'd be worried about but undermining the fountations. Which are likely minimal. It's a popular conversion in this Victorian area, changing a cellar into a habitable basement, and this involves effectively underpinning to gain the height needed. Before doing *anything* I'd consult a structural engineer. -- *Women like silent men; they think they're listening. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#4
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Off topic
In view of the fact that this control freak government are intent on
spying on our phone calls and Internet activity, is there any way your tag system can cope with random bombings, murders etc.? Dave |
#5
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Lowering basement floor
On Oct 20, 9:37*pm, miles wrote:
Hi, I live in a late georgian/early victorian townhouse. *The basement is currently 218 cm from concrete floor to exposed ceiling joist. *We are moving our kitchen into the basement, and planning to fit some underfloor heating and insulating boards. *I'm quite tall and want to keep the ceiling height as high as possible. The builder has dug a trench for a drain, and we've found that the concrete floor is approx 10cm deep, then turns into brick below that, Other than the work itself, would there be any problem in removing the concrete layer completely, then re-laying the boards and tiles onto a much thinner layer of concrete or screed? *I'm assuming that if the brick was the original floor layer, then this is unlikely to cause structural problems. *If we did do this, should we do anything to make sure we don't get damp coming up? Thanks, Miles I've no idea whether you could replace 4" concrete with half an inch of sand filled resin on a compacted base, but would at least inquire. NT |
#6
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Lowering basement floor
miles wrote:
I live in a late georgian/early victorian townhouse. The basement is currently 218 cm from concrete floor to exposed ceiling joist. We are moving our kitchen into the basement, and planning to fit some underfloor heating and insulating boards. I'm quite tall and want to keep the ceiling height as high as possible. The builder has dug a trench for a drain, and we've found that the concrete floor is approx 10cm deep, then turns into brick below that, Other than the work itself, would there be any problem in removing the concrete layer completely, then re-laying the boards and tiles onto a much thinner layer of concrete or screed? I'm assuming that if the brick was the original floor layer, then this is unlikely to cause structural problems. If we did do this, should we do anything to make sure we don't get damp coming up? It's probable that the brick below the slab is a form of hardcore. You would have to lower this before you put back a 100mm minimum thick slab. Anything less would just crack up. To comply with Building Regs, would would also be required to install insulation under the slab (not just the thin stuff that goes under underfloor heating), unless it was a deep basement and you were to put insulation on the walls to offset the heat loss. Whether you would choose to let B/Control know is up to you. While you were doing this, you'd be best installing a proper tanking membrane below the floor & the walls. As has been said, this is all contingent on your foundations being deeper than the bottom of your hardcore. A house I went to last week didn't, and now the owner has a cellar full of concrete, a bill for putting up his and his neighbour's tenants for several days, and a notice requiring him to underpin the party wall. -- Hugo Nebula "If no-one on the internet wants a piece of this, just how far from the pack have you strayed"? |
#7
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Lowering basement floor
In article ,
Hugo Nebula abuse@localhost writes: As has been said, this is all contingent on your foundations being deeper than the bottom of your hardcore. A house I went to last week didn't, and now the owner has a cellar full of concrete, a bill for Filled to the brim? putting up his and his neighbour's tenants for several days, and a notice requiring him to underpin the party wall. That's presumably rather difficult once the cellar is filled with concrete? -- Andrew Gabriel [email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup] |
#8
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Lowering basement floor
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article , Hugo Nebula abuse@localhost writes: As has been said, this is all contingent on your foundations being deeper than the bottom of your hardcore. A house I went to last week didn't, and now the owner has a cellar full of concrete, a bill for Filled to the brim? No, just to the top of where he'd snapped off the spreader course. Which is ~600mm higher than he wanted it. Never mind, the easiest solution is to raise the ground floor joists. After all, anyone over 4'9" can easily stoop through a door. putting up his and his neighbour's tenants for several days, and a notice requiring him to underpin the party wall. That's presumably rather difficult once the cellar is filled with concrete? That's something his engineer and a magistrate will have to come up with. Luckily (ha!) for him, the concrete must have followed the diggers all the way from Poland, because it still hadn't set properly after five days! -- Hugo Nebula "If no-one on the internet wants a piece of this, just how far from the pack have you strayed"? |
#9
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Lowering basement floor
On Oct 20, 8:37*pm, miles wrote:
Hi, I live in a late georgian/early victorian townhouse. *The basement is currently 218 cm from concrete floor to exposed ceiling joist. *We are moving our kitchen into the basement, and planning to fit some underfloor heating and insulating boards. *I'm quite tall and want to keep the ceiling height as high as possible. The builder has dug a trench for a drain, and we've found that the concrete floor is approx 10cm deep, then turns into brick below that, Other than the work itself, would there be any problem in removing the concrete layer completely, then re-laying the boards and tiles onto a much thinner layer of concrete or screed? *I'm assuming that if the brick was the original floor layer, then this is unlikely to cause structural problems. *If we did do this, should we do anything to make sure we don't get damp coming up? Thanks, Miles there's one other option, to lower the floor except right at the edges, where you leave a sloping section (at 38 degrees IIRC). Its a compromise but can be made to work, and saves the cost & trouble of underpinning etc NT |
#11
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Lowering basement floor
On Nov 4, 10:56*pm, Appin wrote:
The message from contains these words: there's one other option, to lower the floor except right at the edges, where you leave a sloping section (at 38 degrees IIRC). Its a compromise but can be made to work, and saves the cost & trouble of underpinning etc No need to slope. *Stop about 600mm from the walls and cut down the plinths *of your kitchen units. yes, step or slope is fine. 2' is pretty big though. NT |
#12
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Lowering basement floor
On Nov 5, 4:51 pm, wrote:
On Nov 4, 10:56 pm, Appin wrote: The message from contains these words: there's one other option, to lower the floor except right at the edges, where you leave a sloping section (at 38 degrees IIRC). Its a compromise but can be made to work, and saves the cost & trouble of underpinning etc No need to slope. Stop about 600mm from the walls and cut down the plinths of your kitchen units. yes, step or slope is fine. 2' is pretty big though. I don't think the OP needs a 2' step. It was Hugo's acquaintance that had 600mm more than he wanted. |
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