Plasterboard has two sides, usually an ivory side and a matt paper
side (i think).

Supposed to wallpaper onto ivory side and plaster onto matt paper
side.

My ceiling boards are foil backed, and have been installed already
with foil side in the loft, but the ceiling side is ivory, and I want
to plaster them.

Will it be ok to plaster onto ivory side on a ceiling?

Other problem is that when installing I butted them too close and
there is no gap between them. Will it be ok or do I have to use a
router and cut a 3mm gap from all the joints?

Thanks

On 17 Sep, 13:19, freepo wrote:
Plasterboard has two sides, usually an ivory side and a matt paper
side (i think).

Supposed to wallpaper onto ivory side and plaster onto matt paper
side.

My ceiling boards are foil backed, and have been installed already
with foil side in the loft, but the ceiling side is ivory, *and I want
to plaster them.

Will it be ok to plaster onto ivory side on a ceiling?

Other problem is that when installing I butted them too close and
there is no gap between them. *Will it be ok or do I have to use a
router and cut a 3mm gap from all the joints?

Thanks

I had the same 2 issues - and the plasterer had no problem making a
good job.
I think a coat of PVA on the ivory side will make it suitable for
plastering.

Mark.

On 17 Sep, 13:22, wrote:
On 17 Sep, 13:19, freepo wrote:



Plasterboard has two sides, usually an ivory side and a matt paper
side (i think).

Supposed to wallpaper onto ivory side and plaster onto matt paper
side.

My ceiling boards are foil backed, and have been installed already
with foil side in the loft, but the ceiling side is ivory, and I want
to plaster them.

Will it be ok to plaster onto ivory side on a ceiling?

Other problem is that when installing I butted them too close and
there is no gap between them. Will it be ok or do I have to use a
router and cut a 3mm gap from all the joints?

Thanks

I had the same 2 issues - and the plasterer had no problem making a
good job.
I think a coat of PVA on the ivory side will make it suitable for
plastering.

Mark.

This has been dealt with many times. *These days*, the ivory side is
used for all purposes. The other side has a glued flap of paper on it,
and this flap can become unstuck if plastered over.
Also, reportedly some plasterers like a gap between the boards to help
bond them together. However, every time I have boarded for a plasterer
to skim, I have butted them up and me or the plasterer has stuck the
scrim tape over the joints. None of them said anything about expecting
gaps !
Simon.

On Sep 17, 1:55 pm, sm_jamieson wrote:
On 17 Sep, 13:22, wrote:



On 17 Sep, 13:19, freepo wrote:

Plasterboard has two sides, usually an ivory side and a matt paper
side (i think).

Supposed to wallpaper onto ivory side and plaster onto matt paper
side.

My ceiling boards are foil backed, and have been installed already
with foil side in the loft, but the ceiling side is ivory, and I want
to plaster them.

Will it be ok to plaster onto ivory side on a ceiling?

Other problem is that when installing I butted them too close and
there is no gap between them. Will it be ok or do I have to use a
router and cut a 3mm gap from all the joints?

Thanks

I had the same 2 issues - and the plasterer had no problem making a
good job.
I think a coat of PVA on the ivory side will make it suitable for
plastering.

Mark.

This has been dealt with many times. *These days*, the ivory side is
used for all purposes. The other side has a glued flap of paper on it,
and this flap can become unstuck if plastered over.
Also, reportedly some plasterers like a gap between the boards to help
bond them together. However, every time I have boarded for a plasterer
to skim, I have butted them up and me or the plasterer has stuck the
scrim tape over the joints. None of them said anything about expecting
gaps !
Simon.

Cool nothing to worry about then. Thanks everyone.

In article
,
freepo wrote:
Plasterboard has two sides, usually an ivory side and a matt paper
side (i think).

Supposed to wallpaper onto ivory side and plaster onto matt paper
side.

Not anymore. It now says white side out - on the grey side. ;-)

--
*Yes, I am an agent of Satan, but my duties are largely ceremonial

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

freepo wrote:

Other problem is that when installing I butted them too close and
there is no gap between them. Will it be ok or do I have to use a
router and cut a 3mm gap from all the joints?

Well not long ago I boarded out several walls and ceilings with the
aformentioned gap between the boards, and got ticked off when the
plasterer arrived and told me he prefers the boards tight together.

So go figure...

David

The message
from Lobster contains these words:

Other problem is that when installing I butted them too close and
there is no gap between them. Will it be ok or do I have to use a
router and cut a 3mm gap from all the joints?

Well not long ago I boarded out several walls and ceilings with the
aformentioned gap between the boards, and got ticked off when the
plasterer arrived and told me he prefers the boards tight together.

I am no expect on plastering but ISTM that if you plasterboard a ceiling
without noggings at the board ends (not that I would) then a gap there
for plaster to be forced through will do a better job than a tight joint
and scrim tape. After all lath and plaster is just very short boards and
a multitude of gaps.

--
Roger Chapman

In article ,
Roger wrote:
I am no expect on plastering but ISTM that if you plasterboard a ceiling
without noggings at the board ends (not that I would) then a gap there
for plaster to be forced through will do a better job than a tight joint
and scrim tape. After all lath and plaster is just very short boards and
a multitude of gaps.

Trouble is that finish coat is extremely hard and inflexible - as well as
being very thin. Plasterboard is made of softer plaster - so any flexing
gives obvious results at joins. Lath and plaster is different - the
plaster used there is lime and very flexible. At least when new.

--
*Sherlock Holmes never said "Elementary, my dear Watson" *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
"Dave Plowman (News)" writes:
In article ,
Roger wrote:
I am no expect on plastering but ISTM that if you plasterboard a ceiling
without noggings at the board ends (not that I would) then a gap there
for plaster to be forced through will do a better job than a tight joint
and scrim tape. After all lath and plaster is just very short boards and
a multitude of gaps.

Correct, but you still use the scrim tape too, after you've forced
the plaster through the gap.

Trouble is that finish coat is extremely hard and inflexible - as well as
being very thin. Plasterboard is made of softer plaster - so any flexing
gives obvious results at joins. Lath and plaster is different - the
plaster used there is lime and very flexible. At least when new.

You should really be forcing bonding coat through the gaps.
Finish coat doesn't have much of a sticking/glueing property,
and it shrinks enormously as it sets, so a 1/4" wad in a gap
would definately crack along the gap. Of course, it's annoying
mixing up a small quantity of bonding coat just for this, but
if you're using it elsewhere, then you can just slap it in
when you have it mixed up for other purposes.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

"freepo" wrote in message
...
Plasterboard has two sides, usually an ivory side and a matt paper
side (i think).

Supposed to wallpaper onto ivory side and plaster onto matt paper
side.

My ceiling boards are foil backed, and have been installed already
with foil side in the loft, but the ceiling side is ivory, and I want
to plaster them.

Will it be ok to plaster onto ivory side on a ceiling?

Other problem is that when installing I butted them too close and
there is no gap between them. Will it be ok or do I have to use a
router and cut a 3mm gap from all the joints?

Thanks

Might be a bit late? but fill the gaps with acrylic sealant and wipe off
excess,much better than scrim tape.