Friend has a commercial kitchen. One of the sinks has developed one
actual and one potential pin hole in the base.

How does one repair it?


Replacement is not an option because of (a) lack of funds and (b) the
historic nature of the kitchen - don't ask!


Richard

"Richard Savage" wrote in message
...
Friend has a commercial kitchen. One of the sinks has developed one
actual and one potential pin hole in the base.

How does one repair it?


Replacement is not an option because of (a) lack of funds and (b) the
historic nature of the kitchen - don't ask!


Richard

If you can get at the back, then one of the plumber's epoxies.

In article ,
Richard Savage wrote:
Friend has a commercial kitchen. One of the sinks has developed one
actual and one potential pin hole in the base.

How does one repair it?


Replacement is not an option because of (a) lack of funds and (b) the
historic nature of the kitchen - don't ask!

SS can be TIG welded. Perhaps a mobile welder in your area could help?

--
*Be more or less specific *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sun, 07 Sep 2008 12:54:30 +0100, Richard Savage wrote:

Friend has a commercial kitchen. One of the sinks has developed one
actual and one potential pin hole in the base.

How does one repair it?


Replacement is not an option because of (a) lack of funds and (b) the
historic nature of the kitchen - don't ask!


Richard

==================================
Google for: 'petropatch'.

Cic.
--
===================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
===================================

Thanks to all.

Mark is searching for a local - to him - stockist of

http://www.wmharvey.com/prod/cat4/pep/epoxy.php

Cheers

Richard

On Sun, 07 Sep 2008 12:54:30 +0100, Richard Savage
wrote:

Friend has a commercial kitchen. One of the sinks has developed one
actual and one potential pin hole in the base.

How does one repair it?


Replacement is not an option because of (a) lack of funds and (b) the
historic nature of the kitchen - don't ask!

Araldite and a 2 pence piece. Use a bit of sticky tape to hold it in
place until it sets.

Alang wrote:
On Sun, 07 Sep 2008 12:54:30 +0100, Richard Savage
wrote:

Friend has a commercial kitchen. One of the sinks has developed one
actual and one potential pin hole in the base.

How does one repair it?


Replacement is not an option because of (a) lack of funds and (b) the
historic nature of the kitchen - don't ask!

Araldite and a 2 pence piece. Use a bit of sticky tape to hold it in
place until it sets.

car body fller underneath, and scrub it clean on the topside.
However I would instantly fail that if I was a kitchen inspector and I
spotted it.

Richard Savage wrote:
Thanks to all.

Mark is searching for a local - to him - stockist of

http://www.wmharvey.com/prod/cat4/pep/epoxy.php

You can buy that in B&Q or Wickes

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Home-Adhesiv...ty/invt/243792


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Sun, 07 Sep 2008 23:00:44 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

Alang wrote:
On Sun, 07 Sep 2008 12:54:30 +0100, Richard Savage
wrote:

Friend has a commercial kitchen. One of the sinks has developed one
actual and one potential pin hole in the base.

How does one repair it?


Replacement is not an option because of (a) lack of funds and (b) the
historic nature of the kitchen - don't ask!

Araldite and a 2 pence piece. Use a bit of sticky tape to hold it in
place until it sets.

car body fller underneath, and scrub it clean on the topside.
However I would instantly fail that if I was a kitchen inspector and I
spotted it.

If it's in commercial premises I'd have it done properly and get a
patch welded on or get the whole lot replaced. Better than having a
business closed down by the local authority inspectors over a
relatively minor problem

On 7 Sep, 12:54, Richard Savage wrote:

How does one repair it?

TIG if you can (some chippie fitters do callouts) This will be
strongest.

Low temperature solders. Silver solder (Easyflow etc.) is ****-easy on
stainless and only needs a cheap gas torch. It's likely to be easier
to fit a larger, clean-edged patch than to faff around with a hole.
Any of the model engineering people will sell small quantities of the
bits.

I wouldn't bother with epoxies - silver solder is too easy.

Passivate again afterwards, or it'll stain. Citric acid and web
searching will do.

Alang coughed up some electrons that declared:

On Sun, 07 Sep 2008 23:00:44 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

Alang wrote:
On Sun, 07 Sep 2008 12:54:30 +0100, Richard Savage
wrote:

Friend has a commercial kitchen. One of the sinks has developed one
actual and one potential pin hole in the base.

How does one repair it?


Replacement is not an option because of (a) lack of funds and (b) the
historic nature of the kitchen - don't ask!

Araldite and a 2 pence piece. Use a bit of sticky tape to hold it in
place until it sets.

car body fller underneath, and scrub it clean on the topside.
However I would instantly fail that if I was a kitchen inspector and I
spotted it.

If it's in commercial premises I'd have it done properly and get a
patch welded on or get the whole lot replaced. Better than having a
business closed down by the local authority inspectors over a
relatively minor problem

Agree. If this were a car and the patch was on the painted bodywork, I'd be
looking at cutting out a square around the damaged area, forming a step in
the edge, inserting a patch of steel flush and filling the join with weld.
Grind the weld flat to finish.

I would have though that a stainless steel welding person could have made
fairly short work of this and it would be a proper, hygienic and permanent
repair.

Cheers

Tim

In article ,
Tim S wrote:
If it's in commercial premises I'd have it done properly and get a
patch welded on or get the whole lot replaced. Better than having a
business closed down by the local authority inspectors over a
relatively minor problem

Agree. If this were a car and the patch was on the painted bodywork, I'd
be looking at cutting out a square around the damaged area, forming a
step in the edge, inserting a patch of steel flush and filling the join
with weld. Grind the weld flat to finish.

I would have though that a stainless steel welding person could have
made fairly short work of this and it would be a proper, hygienic and
permanent repair.

Absolutely. Anything else is a bodge.

--
*Why do psychics have to ask you for your name? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.