Hi,

I am after a new cordless drill. After a succession of crap Aldi-esque
drills that seize/gearbox failure/get stuck in hammer action I am going
to treat to myself to a proper drill.

The wish list:

- Budget - upto £200ish (preferably including 2 or more batteries)
- Interchangeable SDS and keyless chuck
- Decent manufacturer's warranty (1yr+)
- Reliable brand (Makita, DeWalt etc.) NO: Aldi, Wolf, Black and Knacker
etc.

What it will be used for:

- DIY!
- Mainly light masonary drilling. 5-8mm brick/stone/concrete.

What it won't be used for:

- Demolition work
- Big masonary work
- MFI flatpacks (unless for removal/destruction!)

Can anyone reccomend anything? I am a big fan of the SDS chuck for
masonary but still want the flexibility of being able to use standard
HSS/spade bits.

Am I looking for something that doesn't exist or can someone direct me
to the perfect bit of kit?

Thanks,

Andy

That should of course be recommendation sp - see me!

Andy Kirkland wrote:
Hi,

I am after a new cordless drill. After a succession of crap Aldi-esque
drills that seize/gearbox failure/get stuck in hammer action I am going
to treat to myself to a proper drill.

The wish list:

- Budget - upto £200ish (preferably including 2 or more batteries)
- Interchangeable SDS and keyless chuck
- Decent manufacturer's warranty (1yr+)
- Reliable brand (Makita, DeWalt etc.) NO: Aldi, Wolf, Black and Knacker
etc.

What it will be used for:

- DIY!
- Mainly light masonary drilling. 5-8mm brick/stone/concrete.

What it won't be used for:

- Demolition work
- Big masonary work
- MFI flatpacks (unless for removal/destruction!)

Can anyone reccomend anything? I am a big fan of the SDS chuck for
masonary but still want the flexibility of being able to use standard
HSS/spade bits.

Am I looking for something that doesn't exist or can someone direct me
to the perfect bit of kit?

Thanks,

Andy

Hi, I would go for Dewalt every time, thats why tradesman use them. You
can't go wrong with them as they are much better made than most others..
Have a look at this kind of thing.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DeWalt-DW005K2...d=p3286.c0.m14
Cheers.
Brad.


"Andy Kirkland" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I am after a new cordless drill. After a succession of crap Aldi-esque
drills that seize/gearbox failure/get stuck in hammer action I am going to
treat to myself to a proper drill.

The wish list:

- Budget - upto £200ish (preferably including 2 or more batteries)
- Interchangeable SDS and keyless chuck
- Decent manufacturer's warranty (1yr+)
- Reliable brand (Makita, DeWalt etc.) NO: Aldi, Wolf, Black and Knacker
etc.

What it will be used for:

- DIY!
- Mainly light masonary drilling. 5-8mm brick/stone/concrete.

What it won't be used for:

- Demolition work
- Big masonary work
- MFI flatpacks (unless for removal/destruction!)

Can anyone reccomend anything? I am a big fan of the SDS chuck for
masonary but still want the flexibility of being able to use standard
HSS/spade bits.

Am I looking for something that doesn't exist or can someone direct me to
the perfect bit of kit?

Thanks,

Andy

"Andy Kirkland" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I am after a new cordless drill. After a succession of crap Aldi-esque
drills that seize/gearbox failure/get stuck in hammer action I am going to
treat to myself to a proper drill.

The wish list:

- Budget - upto £200ish (preferably including 2 or more batteries)
- Interchangeable SDS and keyless chuck
- Decent manufacturer's warranty (1yr+)
- Reliable brand (Makita, DeWalt etc.) NO: Aldi, Wolf, Black and Knacker
etc.

What it will be used for:

- DIY!
- Mainly light masonary drilling. 5-8mm brick/stone/concrete.

You don't want a big SDS drill if you are only drilling little holes, just
buy some better drill bits.

Buy whatever is on special at screwfix/toolstation.

ATM you can get a Ryobi 18v drill and impact driver with two batts for £100.
Or a Makita for about £140.

Why choose dewalt when they are just up rated B&D?

Andy Kirkland wrote:
Hi,

I am after a new cordless drill. After a succession of crap
Aldi-esque drills that seize/gearbox failure/get stuck in hammer
action I am going to treat to myself to a proper drill.

The wish list:

- Budget - upto £200ish (preferably including 2 or more batteries)
- Interchangeable SDS and keyless chuck
- Decent manufacturer's warranty (1yr+)
- Reliable brand (Makita, DeWalt etc.) NO: Aldi, Wolf, Black and
Knacker etc.

What it will be used for:

- DIY!
- Mainly light masonary drilling. 5-8mm brick/stone/concrete.

What it won't be used for:

- Demolition work
- Big masonary work
- MFI flatpacks (unless for removal/destruction!)

Can anyone reccomend anything? I am a big fan of the SDS chuck for
masonary but still want the flexibility of being able to use standard
HSS/spade bits.

Am I looking for something that doesn't exist or can someone direct me
to the perfect bit of kit?

Alas no :-)

Cheapest cordless SDS I've seen of late (of decent brand) is the DeWalt &
around £250 c/w 2 batteries, but no keyless chuck.

Cordless SDS ain't not cheap.

I reckon you would be better off with a decent drill driver & a mains SDS.

Screwfix currently have a few blue Bosch drill drivers at good prices, or
the Site (made by Makita, 3 batteries) at £99.

Couple one of those with a corded SDS from Bosch/Makita at around £100 &
Robert is your fathers brother.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

In article ,
Andy Kirkland wrote:
I am after a new cordless drill. After a succession of crap Aldi-esque
drills that seize/gearbox failure/get stuck in hammer action I am going
to treat to myself to a proper drill.

The wish list:

- Budget - upto £200ish (preferably including 2 or more batteries)
- Interchangeable SDS and keyless chuck
- Decent manufacturer's warranty (1yr+)
- Reliable brand (Makita, DeWalt etc.) NO: Aldi, Wolf, Black and Knacker
etc.

What it will be used for:

- DIY!
- Mainly light masonary drilling. 5-8mm brick/stone/concrete.

What it won't be used for:

- Demolition work
- Big masonary work
- MFI flatpacks (unless for removal/destruction!)

Can anyone reccomend anything? I am a big fan of the SDS chuck for
masonary but still want the flexibility of being able to use standard
HSS/spade bits.

Am I looking for something that doesn't exist or can someone direct me
to the perfect bit of kit?

I'd certainly *not* go for an SDS cordless unless it's going to be heavily
used in that mode. The SDS mechanism makes them heavier bulkier and much
more expensive. And unless drilling hard bricks or concrete etc not needed
for a few holes. Also in my experience few interchangeable chucks are slop
free thus compromising performance.

--
*Few women admit their age; fewer men act it.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

All your criteria - except not cordless:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-B...ill-238148.htm

I have the older 2-24DFR model, 9 years old and had a much harder
working life than most diy'ers give their tools - still strong.

I think you'd struggle for 200 quid to get a *good* sds cordless. Even
a really good one (IME) lacks the clout of corded.

I have the older 2-24DFR model, 9 years old and had a much harder
working life than most diy'ers give their tools - still strong.

And the 3 jaw chuck is top quality - when you need a firmly gripped
drill and plenty of torque for conventional drilling, it's a winner.

dennis@home wrote:


Why choose dewalt when they are just up rated B&D?


I've owned a B&D and now a Dewalt. I can assure you from real life
experience, the two are very, very different beasts.

Mike Dodd wrote:
dennis@home wrote:


Why choose dewalt when they are just up rated B&D?


I've owned a B&D and now a Dewalt. I can assure you from real life
experience, the two are very, very different beasts.



....and in case there's any confusion - I'd buy Dewalt anyday. I would
not buy B&D again.

(in fact, I'm looking for an excuse to buy a DW Jigsaw, to replace the
pile of crap that is the B&D that I have, except there's few jobs that I
would want to use a jigsaw for. Maybe I'll keep the B&D for any random
(and I use the word deliberatly) cutting that I'll do)

I'm not a Dewalt-is-king type of person, I do have a Makita 1/2" router
(bought before the drill was received as a present) and I'd have no
qualms in recommending Makita as a solid tool maker, based on my
experience of that. That replaced a 1/4" Black and Decker Router (my
first) with similar satisfaction.


Anyway, more constructive... to the OP, Screwfix have a recently
advertised deal on...

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/48598

Which looks interesting, reduced from £229 to £139.

I've no experience of this particular model, although it caught my eye
from a recent email from SF as a potentially good deal, however,
re-reading your post, it's not SDS. For "light masonary drilling. 5-8mm
brick/stone/concrete", I'm not convinced that you'd necessarily need
SDS, although that choice is, of course, yours. I've happily* used my
18v DW 20 foot up a ladder drilling 12mm into brick.


* happy = in the choice of tool, not happy about dangling so high off
the perfectly good ground.

"Mike Dodd" wrote in message
...
dennis@home wrote:


Why choose dewalt when they are just up rated B&D?


I've owned a B&D and now a Dewalt. I can assure you from real life
experience, the two are very, very different beasts.



They aren't that different, I could fit my B&D batteries to a Dewalt by
filing a couple of notches (not all of course as they use different shapes
on some drills).
Likewise I have cut the wings off to make batteries fit the B&D firestorm
drill (its light and it has the best hammer action of my drills not that I
use hammer since I bought the Bosh multi construction bits and the chuck
works. Maybe I am a DIY person that doesn't wear out a drill in three
weeks?).

When you start taking stuff apart you would be amazed at how much is common
between brands.
Its like laser printers.. many are the same with different bits of plastic
attached to stop them being interchangeable.
I have also cut bits off cartridges to make them fit too.
This is a DIY group. ;-)

On 22 Aug, 09:02, "dennis@home" wrote:
"Mike Dodd" wrote in message

...

dennis@home wrote:

Why choose dewalt when they are just up rated B&D?

I've owned a B&D and now a Dewalt. I can assure you from real life
experience, the two are very, very different beasts.

They aren't that different, I could fit my B&D batteries to a Dewalt by
filing a couple of notches

And that relates to their build quality just how?

On Thu, 21 Aug 2008 11:34:35 +0100, Andy Kirkland wrote:

Hi,

I am after a new cordless drill. After a succession of crap Aldi-esque
drills that seize/gearbox failure/get stuck in hammer action I am going
to treat to myself to a proper drill.


snipped

Thanks,

Andy
==================================
I don't want to get embroiled in the interminable discussions about which
brand(s) is / are best so I'll make only one suggestion. Make sure you
physically handle your potential purchase to see how it feels for weight,
size, balance etc. Consider how it will feel if used continuously in
difficult situations. I say this because I saw a rather handsome cordless
DeWalt drill in Screwfix a few days ago. It was on the counter for people
to handle and for me it felt very heavy and quite clumsy. Apparently more
powerful batteries mean greater weight and size regardless of
manufacturer. This may be acceptable for some people but I prefer a
lighter and neater build even if I get less power and a shorter battery /
tool life. Just make sure you don't lumber yourself with a tool that is
uncomfortable and possibly dangerous to use.

Happy shopping,

Cic.
--
===================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
===================================

In article ,
dennis@home wrote:
I've owned a B&D and now a Dewalt. I can assure you from real life
experience, the two are very, very different beasts.



They aren't that different, I could fit my B&D batteries to a Dewalt by
filing a couple of notches

Ahem. There is just a teeny weeny bit more to batteries than whether they
'fit' or not. The quality of the actual cells makes more difference to
performance than the motor etc usually. And quality cells cost...

--
*The problem with the gene pool is that there is no lifeguard *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
dennis@home wrote:
I've owned a B&D and now a Dewalt. I can assure you from real life
experience, the two are very, very different beasts.



They aren't that different, I could fit my B&D batteries to a Dewalt by
filing a couple of notches

Ahem. There is just a teeny weeny bit more to batteries than whether they
'fit' or not. The quality of the actual cells makes more difference to
performance than the motor etc usually. And quality cells cost...

I know and there isn't usually much difference.
Industrial cells are industrial cells and price has little bearing on
quality.
Even Panasonic cells come out the same factories as the no name cells.

In article ,
dennis@home wrote:
Ahem. There is just a teeny weeny bit more to batteries than whether
they 'fit' or not. The quality of the actual cells makes more
difference to performance than the motor etc usually. And quality
cells cost...

I know and there isn't usually much difference.

That is simply rubbish.

Industrial cells are industrial cells and price has little bearing on
quality.

I take it you've never compared a 'shed' tool with a quality one, battery
wise? I have and it's chalk and cheese.

Even Panasonic cells come out the same factories as the no name cells.

Different brands of power tools can come from the same factory too - and
vary as much.

--
*42.7% of statistics are made up. Sorry, that should read 47.2% *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Andy Kirkland" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I am after a new cordless drill. After a succession of crap Aldi-esque
drills that seize/gearbox failure/get stuck in hammer action I am going to
treat to myself to a proper drill.

The wish list:

- Budget - upto £200ish (preferably including 2 or more batteries)
- Interchangeable SDS and keyless chuck
- Decent manufacturer's warranty (1yr+)
- Reliable brand (Makita, DeWalt etc.) NO: Aldi, Wolf, Black and Knacker
etc.

Get this deal. Two excelent drills - one combi and the other a now essential
Impact Driver with two top rated batteries:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/79355/...M02QCSTHZOCFFA
Number: 79355 Two yr guarantee

The SDS? Go to Wickes and buy the grey SDS for £80 to £100 - a Kress made
in Germany. With keyless chuck too. 5 year guarantee.

£200 and all you need in drilling.

Mike Dodd wrote:

nyway, more constructive... to the OP, Screwfix have a recently
advertised deal on...

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/48598

Which looks interesting, reduced from £229 to £139.

I've no experience of this particular model, although it caught my eye
from a recent email from SF as a potentially good deal, however,
re-reading your post, it's not SDS. For "light masonary drilling. 5-8mm
brick/stone/concrete", I'm not convinced that you'd necessarily need
SDS, although that choice is, of course, yours. I've happily* used my
18v DW 20 foot up a ladder drilling 12mm into brick.

I bought one earlier this week. It is excellent, though the chuck is not
all metal, so its longevity (the chuck) may be questionable for regular
use. It isnt a problem IMO though as new chucks are £25 if ever one was
needed.

The only downside that I can see is the weight of it - not a problem
when using a 6mm bit going into masonry, but it may not be so good with
a 2mm pilot in softwood.

Anyway, I would recommend it, if anyone bought it and didnt like it, you
can sell it off separately as body, batteries, charger and case, and
make a profit on it.
Alan.
--
To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Mike Dodd
saying something like:

(in fact, I'm looking for an excuse to buy a DW Jigsaw,

Excuse? You don' need no feelty excuse.

I bought a DW jigsaw some years ago when I was doing a fair bit of site
work and it had to be in 110V. It's an utter pleasure to use compared to
others and my only regret now is the 110V, as I've ceased to need that.
--
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a

"It's a moron working with power tools.
How much more suspenseful can you get?"
- House

Mike Dodd wrote:
Mike Dodd wrote:
dennis@home wrote:


Why choose dewalt when they are just up rated B&D?


I've owned a B&D and now a Dewalt. I can assure you from real life
experience, the two are very, very different beasts.



...and in case there's any confusion - I'd buy Dewalt anyday. I would
not buy B&D again.

(in fact, I'm looking for an excuse to buy a DW Jigsaw, to replace the
pile of crap that is the B&D that I have, except there's few jobs
that I would want to use a jigsaw for. Maybe I'll keep the B&D for
any random (and I use the word deliberatly) cutting that I'll do)

I'm not a Dewalt-is-king type of person, I do have a Makita 1/2"
router (bought before the drill was received as a present) and I'd
have no qualms in recommending Makita as a solid tool maker, based on
my experience of that. That replaced a 1/4" Black and Decker Router
(my first) with similar satisfaction.

The Makita jigsaw is simply brilliant, worth looking at. No disrespect to
the DeWalt, never used one.



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Fri, 22 Aug 2008 13:15:28 +0100, "dennis@home"
wrote:

Ahem. There is just a teeny weeny bit more to batteries than whether they
'fit' or not. The quality of the actual cells makes more difference to
performance than the motor etc usually. And quality cells cost...

I know and there isn't usually much difference.

You really are a clueless idiot

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 22 Aug 2008 13:15:28 +0100, "dennis@home"
wrote:

Ahem. There is just a teeny weeny bit more to batteries than whether
they
'fit' or not. The quality of the actual cells makes more difference to
performance than the motor etc usually. And quality cells cost...

I know and there isn't usually much difference.

You really are a clueless idiot

Do you really think they are going to stop an automated line to produce poor
quality cells.
No its like most things they do select on test and then badge them.
Trouble is they hit the same problem as Intel.. too many good ones so they
package up the good ones and sell them as cheap ones.
If you don't know that then I guess you are clueless.

dennis@home wrote:
"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 22 Aug 2008 13:15:28 +0100, "dennis@home"
wrote:

Ahem. There is just a teeny weeny bit more to batteries than
whether they
'fit' or not. The quality of the actual cells makes more
difference to performance than the motor etc usually. And quality
cells cost...

I know and there isn't usually much difference.

You really are a clueless idiot

Do you really think they are going to stop an automated line to
produce poor quality cells.

Thats exactly what they do. They run the line until they have produced the
weeks/months/quarters expected forecast of top grade cells, then switch the
line to make mid range or low range cells.

Most OEM supply companies have different ranges to compete in different
market segments. Many of them market high/mid/low ranges under different
brand names.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Mon, 25 Aug 2008 21:21:30 +0100, "dennis@home"
wrote:

Do you really think they are going to stop an automated line to produce poor
quality cells.

No you ****wit, they run separate factories: one makes good cells, one
makes cells for you and Drivel. Different designs for different markets.

No its like most things they do select on test and then badge them.

"Select on test" hasn't been good practice for 20+ years. Look up "SPC"
if you want even vaguely contemporary QA practice. Only the likes of
Rover could afford to make both good and bad units and then filter out
the duds. Everyone else has had to learn to make good products, and to
make _every_ product good. The line stops (or is rectified without
stopping) _before_ they make a bad one.

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 25 Aug 2008 21:21:30 +0100, "dennis@home"
wrote:

Do you really think they are going to stop an automated line to produce
poor
quality cells.

No you ****wit, they run separate factories: one makes good cells, one
makes cells for you and Drivel. Different designs for different markets.

No its like most things they do select on test and then badge them.

"Select on test" hasn't been good practice for 20+ years. Look up "SPC"
if you want even vaguely contemporary QA practice.

Really, tell that to semiconductor manufacturers where its all select on
test.

Only the likes of
Rover could afford to make both good and bad units and then filter out
the duds. Everyone else has had to learn to make good products, and to
make _every_ product good. The line stops (or is rectified without
stopping) _before_ they make a bad one.

You really don't know much do you?

The Medway Handyman wrote:
dennis@home wrote:
"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 22 Aug 2008 13:15:28 +0100, "dennis@home"
wrote:

Ahem. There is just a teeny weeny bit more to batteries than
whether they
'fit' or not. The quality of the actual cells makes more
difference to performance than the motor etc usually. And quality
cells cost...
I know and there isn't usually much difference.
You really are a clueless idiot
Do you really think they are going to stop an automated line to
produce poor quality cells.

Thats exactly what they do. They run the line until they have produced the
weeks/months/quarters expected forecast of top grade cells, then switch the
line to make mid range or low range cells.

One wonders whether the switch costs more than the savings in raw materials.
As somebody in semi-conductors said, today's typical factory is run by a
man and a dog, and the man is there to feed the dog.

Most OEM supply companies have different ranges to compete in different
market segments. Many of them market high/mid/low ranges under different
brand names.

On 26 Aug, 09:26, stuart noble wrote:

One wonders whether the switch costs more than the savings in raw materials.

If your volume is big enough, then it does. The main difference (for
alkaline batteries at least) is material purity. The good stuff needs
an extra refining step, then you make the cells out of it in exactly
the same way.

The Canadian patents on rechargeable alkalines are interesting reading.