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Default Drilling upwards.

I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on the
'ceiling' of a window reveal. I have some arthritis in my shoulders which
makes pushing upwards painful for any length of time. And having drilled a
number of holes in these tiles already on the walls 'a length of time' is
what it takes - about 10 minutes drilling with a diamond bit per hole.
Any bright ideas about some form of adjustable prop that would provide the
upwards pressure on the drill?

--
*Remember: First you pillage, then you burn.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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Default Drilling upwards.

On Mon, 04 Aug 2008 23:28:37 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Any bright ideas about some form of adjustable prop that would provide
the upwards pressure on the drill?


Something involving a broom handle and a cartridge gun? Really flash, fit
a compression spring in there as well, old valve spring might be a bit to
hard. I think the really tricky bit is going to be getting a secure and
safe coupling to the back of the drill, with the pressure applied in line
with the drill "axle".

--
Cheers
Dave.



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Default Drilling upwards.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on the
'ceiling' of a window reveal. I have some arthritis in my shoulders which
makes pushing upwards painful for any length of time. And having drilled a
number of holes in these tiles already on the walls 'a length of time' is
what it takes - about 10 minutes drilling with a diamond bit per hole.
Any bright ideas about some form of adjustable prop that would provide the
upwards pressure on the drill?



10 minutes seems excessive.
What I would do would be...

1 - use a hammer and gently tap the end of a long screw like a delicate
centerpunch to break through the glaze on the tile.

2 - lightly drill through tile with no hammer action

3 - switch your SDS drill to hammer and slide a hole up into the lintel
like..... well, like a "hot knife through butter"

I suspect the problem is the concrete lintel above all else.
If you _really_ nead a bit of pressure what about one of those
helping-hand type things oft. used to hold plasterboard to the ceiling
while it's being screwed.
or... modify an old cartridge skeleton gun somehow so it shoves a bit of
broom handle up through the end as you squeeze the trigger?

Just a middle of the night idea
:¬)

Pete
--
http://www.GymRatZ.co.uk - Fitness+Gym Equipment.
http://www.bodysolid-gym-equipment.co.uk
http://www.trade-price-supplements.co.uk
http://www.water-rower.co.uk
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Default Drilling upwards.


"www.GymRatZ.co.uk" wrote in message
...
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
10 minutes seems excessive.
What I would do would be...

1 - use a hammer and gently tap the end of a long screw like a delicate
centerpunch to break through the glaze on the tile.

2 - lightly drill through tile with no hammer action

3 - switch your SDS drill to hammer and slide a hole up into the lintel
like..... well, like a "hot knife through butter"

I suspect the problem is the concrete lintel above all else.
If you _really_ nead a bit of pressure what about one of those
helping-hand type things oft. used to hold plasterboard to the ceiling
while it's being screwed.
or... modify an old cartridge skeleton gun somehow so it shoves a bit of
broom handle up through the end as you squeeze the trigger?



Bottle jack? or even the cars scissor jack,

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Default Drilling upwards.

On 5 Aug, 01:19, "www.GymRatZ.co.uk"
wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles
- about 10 minutes drilling with a diamond bit per hole.



1 - use a hammer and gently tap the end of a long screw like a delicate
centerpunch to break through the glaze on the tile.

2 - lightly drill through tile with no hammer action

3 - switch your SDS drill to hammer and slide a hole up into the lintel
like..... well, like a "hot knife through butter"

I suspect the problem is the concrete lintel above all else.


I'm not convinced you've seen the 'porcelain tile' bit of
Dave's post. Breaking the glaze doesn't happen, going
through the biscuit easily doesn't happen ...

And IIRC Dave has a Victorian place so it's not likely
to be a concrete lintel.

But yes, 10 mins per hole sounds excessive.

Me, I'd try a new diamond bit (they wear too damn
quickly for my liking), light pressure only, and rigging
up some sort of continuous lubrication, even if that's
only a bit of a trcikle out of the end of the shower
hose.

John


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Default Drilling upwards.


"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on the
'ceiling' of a window reveal. I have some arthritis in my shoulders which
makes pushing upwards painful for any length of time. And having drilled a
number of holes in these tiles already on the walls 'a length of time' is
what it takes - about 10 minutes drilling with a diamond bit per hole.
Any bright ideas about some form of adjustable prop that would provide the
upwards pressure on the drill?

--
*Remember: First you pillage, then you burn.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


Sees no one has the brains to figure this one out logically and
practically,so....

Know anyone with an old B&D drill stand? take out its normal pole and
replace with one a few inchs short of the ceiling to window ledge.
turn the stands drill anchoring retainer upside down,place drill mounted
stand on window ledge and positon it for correct area to drill,push the
drill upto the ceiling and use the drill lever to put pressure on the
drilling this will enable you to drill like normal instead of upwards.

:-) I think that deserves some merit don't you?


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Default Drilling upwards.


"gazz" wrote in message
...

"www.GymRatZ.co.uk" wrote in

message
...
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
10 minutes seems excessive.
What I would do would be...

1 - use a hammer and gently tap the end of a long screw like a delicate
centerpunch to break through the glaze on the tile.

2 - lightly drill through tile with no hammer action

3 - switch your SDS drill to hammer and slide a hole up into the lintel
like..... well, like a "hot knife through butter"

I suspect the problem is the concrete lintel above all else.
If you _really_ nead a bit of pressure what about one of those
helping-hand type things oft. used to hold plasterboard to the ceiling
while it's being screwed.
or... modify an old cartridge skeleton gun somehow so it shoves a bit of
broom handle up through the end as you squeeze the trigger?



Bottle jack? or even the cars scissor jack,


How big are your windows?


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Default Drilling upwards.

In article ,
www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on
the 'ceiling' of a window reveal. I have some arthritis in my
shoulders which makes pushing upwards painful for any length of time.
And having drilled a number of holes in these tiles already on the
walls 'a length of time' is what it takes - about 10 minutes drilling
with a diamond bit per hole. Any bright ideas about some form of
adjustable prop that would provide the upwards pressure on the drill?



10 minutes seems excessive. What I would do would be...


1 - use a hammer and gently tap the end of a long screw like a delicate
centerpunch to break through the glaze on the tile.


I use a normal centre punch. These are thick hard porcelain tiles which
may be used as floor ones as well, and take a lot of breaking - as I
discovered when removing one with a flaw in it.

2 - lightly drill through tile with no hammer action


Heh heh - you've not come across them, then?

3 - switch your SDS drill to hammer and slide a hole up into the lintel
like..... well, like a "hot knife through butter"


I suspect the problem is the concrete lintel above all else.


I'm only concerned about the tiles.

If you _really_ nead a bit of pressure what about one of those
helping-hand type things oft. used to hold plasterboard to the ceiling
while it's being screwed.
or... modify an old cartridge skeleton gun somehow so it shoves a bit of
broom handle up through the end as you squeeze the trigger?


But what would hold the cartridge gun?

Just a middle of the night idea
:¬)


Pete


--
*Time is the best teacher; unfortunately it kills all its students.

Dave Plowman London SW
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Default Drilling upwards.

In article ,
George wrote:
Know anyone with an old B&D drill stand? take out its normal pole and
replace with one a few inchs short of the ceiling to window ledge.
turn the stands drill anchoring retainer upside down,place drill mounted
stand on window ledge and positon it for correct area to drill,push the
drill upto the ceiling and use the drill lever to put pressure on the
drilling this will enable you to drill like normal instead of upwards.


I have got just such a beast and the drill which fits it complete with
speed control. Made redundant when I bought a pillar drill. I'll
investigate it.

--
*I don't know what your problem is, but I'll bet it's hard to pronounce

Dave Plowman London SW
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Default Drilling upwards.

In article
,
wrote:
On 5 Aug, 01:19, "www.GymRatZ.co.uk"
wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles
- about 10 minutes drilling with a diamond bit per hole.



1 - use a hammer and gently tap the end of a long screw like a delicate
centerpunch to break through the glaze on the tile.

2 - lightly drill through tile with no hammer action

3 - switch your SDS drill to hammer and slide a hole up into the lintel
like..... well, like a "hot knife through butter"

I suspect the problem is the concrete lintel above all else.


I'm not convinced you've seen the 'porcelain tile' bit of
Dave's post. Breaking the glaze doesn't happen, going
through the biscuit easily doesn't happen ...


Actually a centre punch does work well for starting the hole.

And IIRC Dave has a Victorian place so it's not likely
to be a concrete lintel.


Actually this one has as it's a new window - but it's dry lined with
plasterboard.

But yes, 10 mins per hole sounds excessive.


I take it easy given the cost of the drills.

Me, I'd try a new diamond bit (they wear too damn
quickly for my liking), light pressure only, and rigging
up some sort of continuous lubrication, even if that's
only a bit of a trcikle out of the end of the shower
hose.


I've found the B&D ones that Screwfix sell that include a lubrication kit
work very well - but that won't work on a ceiling. So was intending just
regularly dipping it in water. I don't want to soak things.

It's interesting you say light pressure. I've found short bursts of very
high pressure at low speed works best. Are you suggesting a higher speed
at low pressure? If that works better it would alleviate my problem
somewhat.

John


--
Is the hardness of the butter proportional to the softness of the bread?*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


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"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
George wrote:
Know anyone with an old B&D drill stand? take out its normal pole and
replace with one a few inchs short of the ceiling to window ledge.
turn the stands drill anchoring retainer upside down,place drill mounted
stand on window ledge and positon it for correct area to drill,push the
drill upto the ceiling and use the drill lever to put pressure on the
drilling this will enable you to drill like normal instead of upwards.


I have got just such a beast and the drill which fits it complete with
speed control. Made redundant when I bought a pillar drill. I'll
investigate it.

--
*I don't know what your problem is, but I'll bet it's hard to pronounce

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


A further investigation since you have one but this depends whether you have
one of those Aldi plasterboard props and whether its the same circumfrence
as the B&D stand pole?

Take the mechanicle drill mount off the stand and discard the stand and
pole.

Get the Aldi prop and mount the drill anchoring mechanics upside down on the
prop,use the prop to align the drill to the hole and use the lever on the
drill mount. ;-)


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Default Drilling upwards.

In uk.d-i-y, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on the
'ceiling' of a window reveal. I have some arthritis in my shoulders which
makes pushing upwards painful for any length of time. And having drilled a
number of holes in these tiles already on the walls 'a length of time' is
what it takes - about 10 minutes drilling with a diamond bit per hole.
Any bright ideas about some form of adjustable prop that would provide the
upwards pressure on the drill?


If it was me I'd be looking to construct a platform, on which I could
comfortable lie on my back, that would put me in the right position to
hold the drill comfortably.

--
Mike Barnes
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Default Drilling upwards.


"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on the
'ceiling' of a window reveal. I have some arthritis in my shoulders which
makes pushing upwards painful for any length of time. And having drilled a
number of holes in these tiles already on the walls 'a length of time' is
what it takes - about 10 minutes drilling with a diamond bit per hole.
Any bright ideas about some form of adjustable prop that would provide the
upwards pressure on the drill?

--
*Remember: First you pillage, then you burn.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


I can fully appreciate your situation. I have recently had to drill 14
holes in porcelain tiles and it is hard work. Took me about 5 mins per hole
using a 8mm diamond core drill. Drilling upwards is even harder as you also
need to use water to keep the drill bit cool or it won't last 5 minutes.

Can you make some sort of jig out of scrap timber and use a scissor type car
jack to apply the upwards pressure?

Good luck.


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Default Drilling upwards.



"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on the
'ceiling' of a window reveal. I have some arthritis in my shoulders which
makes pushing upwards painful for any length of time. And having drilled a
number of holes in these tiles already on the walls 'a length of time' is
what it takes - about 10 minutes drilling with a diamond bit per hole.
Any bright ideas about some form of adjustable prop that would provide the
upwards pressure on the drill?


Forget all the bright ideas for holding the drill up.. where are you and see
if someone can pop around to drill the holes for you?



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"Mike Barnes" wrote in message
...
In uk.d-i-y, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on the
'ceiling' of a window reveal. I have some arthritis in my shoulders which
makes pushing upwards painful for any length of time. And having drilled

a
number of holes in these tiles already on the walls 'a length of time' is
what it takes - about 10 minutes drilling with a diamond bit per hole.
Any bright ideas about some form of adjustable prop that would provide

the
upwards pressure on the drill?


If it was me I'd be looking to construct a platform, on which I could
comfortable lie on my back, that would put me in the right position to
hold the drill comfortably.

--
Mike Barnes


Being on your back whilst drilling upwards is potentially a dangerous
position to be in and the chance you moving fast in that position are
minimal.




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Default Drilling upwards.


"George" wrote in message
om...

"Mike Barnes" wrote in message
...
In uk.d-i-y, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on the
'ceiling' of a window reveal. I have some arthritis in my shoulders
which
makes pushing upwards painful for any length of time. And having drilled

a
number of holes in these tiles already on the walls 'a length of time'
is
what it takes - about 10 minutes drilling with a diamond bit per hole.
Any bright ideas about some form of adjustable prop that would provide

the
upwards pressure on the drill?


If it was me I'd be looking to construct a platform, on which I could
comfortable lie on my back, that would put me in the right position to
hold the drill comfortably.

--
Mike Barnes


Being on your back whilst drilling upwards is potentially a dangerous
position to be in and the chance you moving fast in that position are
minimal.



agreed, if anything happens and drill slips from your grasp ...... ouch!


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Default Drilling upwards.

In article ,
dennis@home wrote:


"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on
the 'ceiling' of a window reveal. I have some arthritis in my
shoulders which makes pushing upwards painful for any length of time.
And having drilled a number of holes in these tiles already on the
walls 'a length of time' is what it takes - about 10 minutes drilling
with a diamond bit per hole. Any bright ideas about some form of
adjustable prop that would provide the upwards pressure on the drill?


Forget all the bright ideas for holding the drill up.. where are you and
see if someone can pop around to drill the holes for you?


Heh heh - not DIY, then? But I have booked a pal for the weekend if I
can't manage it.

BTW, my location is in my sig. Wish others would do the same.

--
*When blondes have more fun, do they know it?

Dave Plowman London SW
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Default Drilling upwards.


"dennis@home" wrote in message
...


"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on the
'ceiling' of a window reveal. I have some arthritis in my shoulders

which
makes pushing upwards painful for any length of time. And having drilled

a
number of holes in these tiles already on the walls 'a length of time'

is
what it takes - about 10 minutes drilling with a diamond bit per hole.
Any bright ideas about some form of adjustable prop that would provide

the
upwards pressure on the drill?


Forget all the bright ideas for holding the drill up.. where are you and

see
if someone can pop around to drill the holes for you?




I get really tired easily painting or trying to plaster ceilings
Dennis....will you pop round and paint them for me?


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Default Drilling upwards.

In article ,
Slider wrote:
I can fully appreciate your situation. I have recently had to drill 14
holes in porcelain tiles and it is hard work. Took me about 5 mins per
hole using a 8mm diamond core drill. Drilling upwards is even harder
as you also need to use water to keep the drill bit cool or it won't
last 5 minutes.


For an accurate position, I start with a centre punch, then move on to a
4mm tile drill or universal one to completely break the glaze to the right
size - then change to a 6mm one to do the same - then go over to the 6mm
diamond core drill with plenty of pauses and dipping in water. I'm in no
rush and would prefer not to buy lots of these expensive drills. The first
hole I drilled ruined a pukka tile drill by going too fast. A cheap
Screwfix diamond one has managed about a dozen being careful - but is now
knackered. I've just started with a DeWalt one which appears to be better
quality -
as well it might at the thick end of 20 quid.

Can you make some sort of jig out of scrap timber and use a scissor type
car jack to apply the upwards pressure?


That was my original thought too - but drills don't tend to have flat
backs so likely to slip off the jack.

--
*No word in the English language rhymes with month, orange, silver,purple

Dave Plowman London SW
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Default Drilling upwards.


"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Slider wrote:
I can fully appreciate your situation. I have recently had to drill 14
holes in porcelain tiles and it is hard work. Took me about 5 mins per
hole using a 8mm diamond core drill. Drilling upwards is even harder
as you also need to use water to keep the drill bit cool or it won't
last 5 minutes.


For an accurate position, I start with a centre punch, then move on to a
4mm tile drill or universal one to completely break the glaze to the right
size - then change to a 6mm one to do the same - then go over to the 6mm
diamond core drill with plenty of pauses and dipping in water. I'm in no
rush and would prefer not to buy lots of these expensive drills. The first
hole I drilled ruined a pukka tile drill by going too fast. A cheap
Screwfix diamond one has managed about a dozen being careful - but is now
knackered. I've just started with a DeWalt one which appears to be better
quality -
as well it might at the thick end of 20 quid.

Can you make some sort of jig out of scrap timber and use a scissor type
car jack to apply the upwards pressure?


That was my original thought too - but drills don't tend to have flat
backs so likely to slip off the jack.

--
*No word in the English language rhymes with month, orange, silver,purple

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


I used the £20 Dewalt diamond core drill, comes it's own water cooler
attachment (from Screwfix)





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"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
dennis@home wrote:


"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on
the 'ceiling' of a window reveal. I have some arthritis in my
shoulders which makes pushing upwards painful for any length of time.
And having drilled a number of holes in these tiles already on the
walls 'a length of time' is what it takes - about 10 minutes drilling
with a diamond bit per hole. Any bright ideas about some form of
adjustable prop that would provide the upwards pressure on the drill?


Forget all the bright ideas for holding the drill up.. where are you and
see if someone can pop around to drill the holes for you?


Heh heh - not DIY, then? But I have booked a pal for the weekend if I
can't manage it.

BTW, my location is in my sig. Wish others would do the same.


I never read sigs.



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"George" wrote in message
om...


I get really tired easily painting or trying to plaster ceilings
Dennis....will you pop round and paint them for me?



You wouldn't want me to paint anything. ;-)


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Default Drilling upwards.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
George wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on
the 'ceiling' of a window reveal. I have some arthritis in my
shoulders which makes pushing upwards painful for any length of
time. And having drilled a number of holes in these tiles already on
the walls 'a length of time' is what it takes - about 10 minutes
drilling with a diamond bit per hole. Any bright ideas about some
form of adjustable prop that would provide the upwards pressure on
the drill?

--
*Remember: First you pillage, then you burn.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


Sees no one has the brains to figure this one out logically and
practically,so....

Know anyone with an old B&D drill stand? take out its normal pole and
replace with one a few inchs short of the ceiling to window ledge.
turn the stands drill anchoring retainer upside down,place drill
mounted stand on window ledge and positon it for correct area to
drill,push the drill upto the ceiling and use the drill lever to put
pressure on the drilling this will enable you to drill like normal
instead of upwards.

You beat me to it - I was going to suggest the same.

You don't really need to replace the pole - you just need to stand the base
on some blocks of wood on the window cill so that the whole thing is at the
right height. You'll still have to push upwards on the lever - but with a
mechanical advantage, and probably in a more comfortable position than if
you were pushing directly on the drill. You could even extend the lever by
sliding a tube over it, but you'd probably need an assistant to steady the
whole thing.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!


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"Roger Mills" wrote in message
...
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
George wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on
the 'ceiling' of a window reveal. I have some arthritis in my
shoulders which makes pushing upwards painful for any length of
time. And having drilled a number of holes in these tiles already on
the walls 'a length of time' is what it takes - about 10 minutes
drilling with a diamond bit per hole. Any bright ideas about some
form of adjustable prop that would provide the upwards pressure on
the drill?

--
*Remember: First you pillage, then you burn.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


Sees no one has the brains to figure this one out logically and
practically,so....

Know anyone with an old B&D drill stand? take out its normal pole and
replace with one a few inchs short of the ceiling to window ledge.
turn the stands drill anchoring retainer upside down,place drill
mounted stand on window ledge and positon it for correct area to
drill,push the drill upto the ceiling and use the drill lever to put
pressure on the drilling this will enable you to drill like normal
instead of upwards.

You beat me to it - I was going to suggest the same.


Yeah but I went one better...see an update post.


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Default Drilling upwards.

On 4 Aug, 23:28, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on the
'ceiling' of a window reveal.


How far are you from the Medway?


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Default Drilling upwards.

In article ,
Slider wrote:
I used the £20 Dewalt diamond core drill, comes it's own water cooler
attachment (from Screwfix)


Yes- I've got one. But you might tell me how to use the cooler on a
ceiling. ;-)

--
*I'm out of my mind, but feel free to leave a message.

Dave Plowman London SW
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Default Drilling upwards.

In article ,
dennis@home wrote:
BTW, my location is in my sig. Wish others would do the same.


I never read sigs.


It's usually the best part of my posts. By some way.

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Default Drilling upwards.


"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Slider wrote:
I used the £20 Dewalt diamond core drill, comes it's own water cooler
attachment (from Screwfix)


Yes- I've got one. But you might tell me how to use the cooler on a
ceiling. ;-)

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I don't think the hire companies do them just yet,but you could try. ;-)
http://tinyurl.com/3chcka


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Default Drilling upwards.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
dennis@home wrote:
BTW, my location is in my sig. Wish others would do the same.


I never read sigs.


It's usually the best part of my posts. By some way.


I bet you're glad you chose porcelain tiles.....
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Default Drilling upwards.

On 5 Aug, 08:56, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

Actually a centre punch does work well for starting the hole.


I tend to use the mini holesaw style of diamond bit, so a
centre punched start isn't much help - I normally start the
hole at an angle, then pivot the drill until it's perpendicular
to the tile.

But yes, 10 mins per hole sounds excessive.

I take it easy given the cost of the drills.


My employer pays for my drills ... But in smaller sizes the
ones sold by Leyland SDM (Boa, I think) are pretty good
and not overly expensive.

I've found the B&D ones that Screwfix sell that include a lubrication kit
work very well - but that won't work on a ceiling. So was intending just
regularly dipping it in water. I don't want to soak things.

It's interesting you say light pressure. I've found short bursts of very
high pressure at low speed works best. Are you suggesting a higher speed
at low pressure? If that works better it would alleviate my problem
somewhat.


I tend to use as high a speed as I can, plenty of water, and only as
much pressure as needed - it normally starts off light, then builds
up as I decide I'm bored of that hole ...

Haven't - touch wood - been defeated yet

John


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Default Drilling upwards.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Slider wrote:
I can fully appreciate your situation. I have recently had to drill 14
holes in porcelain tiles and it is hard work. Took me about 5 mins per
hole using a 8mm diamond core drill. Drilling upwards is even harder
as you also need to use water to keep the drill bit cool or it won't
last 5 minutes.


For an accurate position, I start with a centre punch, then move on to a
4mm tile drill or universal one to completely break the glaze to the right
size - then change to a 6mm one to do the same - then go over to the 6mm
diamond core drill with plenty of pauses and dipping in water. I'm in no
rush and would prefer not to buy lots of these expensive drills. The first
hole I drilled ruined a pukka tile drill by going too fast. A cheap
Screwfix diamond one has managed about a dozen being careful - but is now
knackered. I've just started with a DeWalt one which appears to be better
quality -
as well it might at the thick end of 20 quid.

Can you make some sort of jig out of scrap timber and use a scissor type
car jack to apply the upwards pressure?


That was my original thought too - but drills don't tend to have flat
backs so likely to slip off the jack.

just curious I have never used anything other than a normal masonry
drill to drill a 6 mm hole in a tile, I use a hammer action as well and
never broken one yet or spent 10 mins drilling one

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Default Drilling upwards.

In article ,
Kevin wrote:
just curious I have never used anything other than a normal masonry
drill to drill a 6 mm hole in a tile, I use a hammer action as well and
never broken one yet or spent 10 mins drilling one


You've not drilled porcelain tiles, then. They are extremely hard - and
not all porcelain is the same either. These ones are the hardest I've come
across.

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Default Drilling upwards.

In article
,
wrote:
Actually a centre punch does work well for starting the hole.


I tend to use the mini holesaw style of diamond bit, so a
centre punched start isn't much help - I normally start the
hole at an angle, then pivot the drill until it's perpendicular
to the tile.


Doesn't give an accurate position, though on the rough surface tiles I've
got. I centre punch then use a multi-purpose 6mm drill to break the glaze
and give a centre for the diamond one. That way I get the hole in exactly
the right place.

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Dave Plowman London SW
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