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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Drilling upwards.
I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on the
'ceiling' of a window reveal. I have some arthritis in my shoulders which makes pushing upwards painful for any length of time. And having drilled a number of holes in these tiles already on the walls 'a length of time' is what it takes - about 10 minutes drilling with a diamond bit per hole. Any bright ideas about some form of adjustable prop that would provide the upwards pressure on the drill? -- *Remember: First you pillage, then you burn. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#2
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Drilling upwards.
On Mon, 04 Aug 2008 23:28:37 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Any bright ideas about some form of adjustable prop that would provide the upwards pressure on the drill? Something involving a broom handle and a cartridge gun? Really flash, fit a compression spring in there as well, old valve spring might be a bit to hard. I think the really tricky bit is going to be getting a secure and safe coupling to the back of the drill, with the pressure applied in line with the drill "axle". -- Cheers Dave. |
#3
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Drilling upwards.
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on the 'ceiling' of a window reveal. I have some arthritis in my shoulders which makes pushing upwards painful for any length of time. And having drilled a number of holes in these tiles already on the walls 'a length of time' is what it takes - about 10 minutes drilling with a diamond bit per hole. Any bright ideas about some form of adjustable prop that would provide the upwards pressure on the drill? 10 minutes seems excessive. What I would do would be... 1 - use a hammer and gently tap the end of a long screw like a delicate centerpunch to break through the glaze on the tile. 2 - lightly drill through tile with no hammer action 3 - switch your SDS drill to hammer and slide a hole up into the lintel like..... well, like a "hot knife through butter" I suspect the problem is the concrete lintel above all else. If you _really_ nead a bit of pressure what about one of those helping-hand type things oft. used to hold plasterboard to the ceiling while it's being screwed. or... modify an old cartridge skeleton gun somehow so it shoves a bit of broom handle up through the end as you squeeze the trigger? Just a middle of the night idea :¬) Pete -- http://www.GymRatZ.co.uk - Fitness+Gym Equipment. http://www.bodysolid-gym-equipment.co.uk http://www.trade-price-supplements.co.uk http://www.water-rower.co.uk |
#4
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Drilling upwards.
"www.GymRatZ.co.uk" wrote in message ... Dave Plowman (News) wrote: 10 minutes seems excessive. What I would do would be... 1 - use a hammer and gently tap the end of a long screw like a delicate centerpunch to break through the glaze on the tile. 2 - lightly drill through tile with no hammer action 3 - switch your SDS drill to hammer and slide a hole up into the lintel like..... well, like a "hot knife through butter" I suspect the problem is the concrete lintel above all else. If you _really_ nead a bit of pressure what about one of those helping-hand type things oft. used to hold plasterboard to the ceiling while it's being screwed. or... modify an old cartridge skeleton gun somehow so it shoves a bit of broom handle up through the end as you squeeze the trigger? Bottle jack? or even the cars scissor jack, |
#5
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Drilling upwards.
On 5 Aug, 01:19, "www.GymRatZ.co.uk"
wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles - about 10 minutes drilling with a diamond bit per hole. 1 - use a hammer and gently tap the end of a long screw like a delicate centerpunch to break through the glaze on the tile. 2 - lightly drill through tile with no hammer action 3 - switch your SDS drill to hammer and slide a hole up into the lintel like..... well, like a "hot knife through butter" I suspect the problem is the concrete lintel above all else. I'm not convinced you've seen the 'porcelain tile' bit of Dave's post. Breaking the glaze doesn't happen, going through the biscuit easily doesn't happen ... And IIRC Dave has a Victorian place so it's not likely to be a concrete lintel. But yes, 10 mins per hole sounds excessive. Me, I'd try a new diamond bit (they wear too damn quickly for my liking), light pressure only, and rigging up some sort of continuous lubrication, even if that's only a bit of a trcikle out of the end of the shower hose. John |
#6
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Drilling upwards.
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on the 'ceiling' of a window reveal. I have some arthritis in my shoulders which makes pushing upwards painful for any length of time. And having drilled a number of holes in these tiles already on the walls 'a length of time' is what it takes - about 10 minutes drilling with a diamond bit per hole. Any bright ideas about some form of adjustable prop that would provide the upwards pressure on the drill? -- *Remember: First you pillage, then you burn. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. Sees no one has the brains to figure this one out logically and practically,so.... Know anyone with an old B&D drill stand? take out its normal pole and replace with one a few inchs short of the ceiling to window ledge. turn the stands drill anchoring retainer upside down,place drill mounted stand on window ledge and positon it for correct area to drill,push the drill upto the ceiling and use the drill lever to put pressure on the drilling this will enable you to drill like normal instead of upwards. :-) I think that deserves some merit don't you? |
#7
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Drilling upwards.
"gazz" wrote in message ... "www.GymRatZ.co.uk" wrote in message ... Dave Plowman (News) wrote: 10 minutes seems excessive. What I would do would be... 1 - use a hammer and gently tap the end of a long screw like a delicate centerpunch to break through the glaze on the tile. 2 - lightly drill through tile with no hammer action 3 - switch your SDS drill to hammer and slide a hole up into the lintel like..... well, like a "hot knife through butter" I suspect the problem is the concrete lintel above all else. If you _really_ nead a bit of pressure what about one of those helping-hand type things oft. used to hold plasterboard to the ceiling while it's being screwed. or... modify an old cartridge skeleton gun somehow so it shoves a bit of broom handle up through the end as you squeeze the trigger? Bottle jack? or even the cars scissor jack, How big are your windows? |
#8
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Drilling upwards.
In article ,
www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on the 'ceiling' of a window reveal. I have some arthritis in my shoulders which makes pushing upwards painful for any length of time. And having drilled a number of holes in these tiles already on the walls 'a length of time' is what it takes - about 10 minutes drilling with a diamond bit per hole. Any bright ideas about some form of adjustable prop that would provide the upwards pressure on the drill? 10 minutes seems excessive. What I would do would be... 1 - use a hammer and gently tap the end of a long screw like a delicate centerpunch to break through the glaze on the tile. I use a normal centre punch. These are thick hard porcelain tiles which may be used as floor ones as well, and take a lot of breaking - as I discovered when removing one with a flaw in it. 2 - lightly drill through tile with no hammer action Heh heh - you've not come across them, then? 3 - switch your SDS drill to hammer and slide a hole up into the lintel like..... well, like a "hot knife through butter" I suspect the problem is the concrete lintel above all else. I'm only concerned about the tiles. If you _really_ nead a bit of pressure what about one of those helping-hand type things oft. used to hold plasterboard to the ceiling while it's being screwed. or... modify an old cartridge skeleton gun somehow so it shoves a bit of broom handle up through the end as you squeeze the trigger? But what would hold the cartridge gun? Just a middle of the night idea :¬) Pete -- *Time is the best teacher; unfortunately it kills all its students. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#9
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Drilling upwards.
In article ,
George wrote: Know anyone with an old B&D drill stand? take out its normal pole and replace with one a few inchs short of the ceiling to window ledge. turn the stands drill anchoring retainer upside down,place drill mounted stand on window ledge and positon it for correct area to drill,push the drill upto the ceiling and use the drill lever to put pressure on the drilling this will enable you to drill like normal instead of upwards. I have got just such a beast and the drill which fits it complete with speed control. Made redundant when I bought a pillar drill. I'll investigate it. -- *I don't know what your problem is, but I'll bet it's hard to pronounce Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#10
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Drilling upwards.
In article
, wrote: On 5 Aug, 01:19, "www.GymRatZ.co.uk" wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles - about 10 minutes drilling with a diamond bit per hole. 1 - use a hammer and gently tap the end of a long screw like a delicate centerpunch to break through the glaze on the tile. 2 - lightly drill through tile with no hammer action 3 - switch your SDS drill to hammer and slide a hole up into the lintel like..... well, like a "hot knife through butter" I suspect the problem is the concrete lintel above all else. I'm not convinced you've seen the 'porcelain tile' bit of Dave's post. Breaking the glaze doesn't happen, going through the biscuit easily doesn't happen ... Actually a centre punch does work well for starting the hole. And IIRC Dave has a Victorian place so it's not likely to be a concrete lintel. Actually this one has as it's a new window - but it's dry lined with plasterboard. But yes, 10 mins per hole sounds excessive. I take it easy given the cost of the drills. Me, I'd try a new diamond bit (they wear too damn quickly for my liking), light pressure only, and rigging up some sort of continuous lubrication, even if that's only a bit of a trcikle out of the end of the shower hose. I've found the B&D ones that Screwfix sell that include a lubrication kit work very well - but that won't work on a ceiling. So was intending just regularly dipping it in water. I don't want to soak things. It's interesting you say light pressure. I've found short bursts of very high pressure at low speed works best. Are you suggesting a higher speed at low pressure? If that works better it would alleviate my problem somewhat. John -- Is the hardness of the butter proportional to the softness of the bread?* Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#11
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Drilling upwards.
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... In article , George wrote: Know anyone with an old B&D drill stand? take out its normal pole and replace with one a few inchs short of the ceiling to window ledge. turn the stands drill anchoring retainer upside down,place drill mounted stand on window ledge and positon it for correct area to drill,push the drill upto the ceiling and use the drill lever to put pressure on the drilling this will enable you to drill like normal instead of upwards. I have got just such a beast and the drill which fits it complete with speed control. Made redundant when I bought a pillar drill. I'll investigate it. -- *I don't know what your problem is, but I'll bet it's hard to pronounce Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. A further investigation since you have one but this depends whether you have one of those Aldi plasterboard props and whether its the same circumfrence as the B&D stand pole? Take the mechanicle drill mount off the stand and discard the stand and pole. Get the Aldi prop and mount the drill anchoring mechanics upside down on the prop,use the prop to align the drill to the hole and use the lever on the drill mount. ;-) |
#12
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Drilling upwards.
In uk.d-i-y, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on the 'ceiling' of a window reveal. I have some arthritis in my shoulders which makes pushing upwards painful for any length of time. And having drilled a number of holes in these tiles already on the walls 'a length of time' is what it takes - about 10 minutes drilling with a diamond bit per hole. Any bright ideas about some form of adjustable prop that would provide the upwards pressure on the drill? If it was me I'd be looking to construct a platform, on which I could comfortable lie on my back, that would put me in the right position to hold the drill comfortably. -- Mike Barnes |
#13
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Drilling upwards.
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on the 'ceiling' of a window reveal. I have some arthritis in my shoulders which makes pushing upwards painful for any length of time. And having drilled a number of holes in these tiles already on the walls 'a length of time' is what it takes - about 10 minutes drilling with a diamond bit per hole. Any bright ideas about some form of adjustable prop that would provide the upwards pressure on the drill? -- *Remember: First you pillage, then you burn. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. I can fully appreciate your situation. I have recently had to drill 14 holes in porcelain tiles and it is hard work. Took me about 5 mins per hole using a 8mm diamond core drill. Drilling upwards is even harder as you also need to use water to keep the drill bit cool or it won't last 5 minutes. Can you make some sort of jig out of scrap timber and use a scissor type car jack to apply the upwards pressure? Good luck. |
#14
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Drilling upwards.
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on the 'ceiling' of a window reveal. I have some arthritis in my shoulders which makes pushing upwards painful for any length of time. And having drilled a number of holes in these tiles already on the walls 'a length of time' is what it takes - about 10 minutes drilling with a diamond bit per hole. Any bright ideas about some form of adjustable prop that would provide the upwards pressure on the drill? Forget all the bright ideas for holding the drill up.. where are you and see if someone can pop around to drill the holes for you? |
#15
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Drilling upwards.
"Mike Barnes" wrote in message ... In uk.d-i-y, Dave Plowman (News) wrote: I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on the 'ceiling' of a window reveal. I have some arthritis in my shoulders which makes pushing upwards painful for any length of time. And having drilled a number of holes in these tiles already on the walls 'a length of time' is what it takes - about 10 minutes drilling with a diamond bit per hole. Any bright ideas about some form of adjustable prop that would provide the upwards pressure on the drill? If it was me I'd be looking to construct a platform, on which I could comfortable lie on my back, that would put me in the right position to hold the drill comfortably. -- Mike Barnes Being on your back whilst drilling upwards is potentially a dangerous position to be in and the chance you moving fast in that position are minimal. |
#16
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Drilling upwards.
"George" wrote in message om... "Mike Barnes" wrote in message ... In uk.d-i-y, Dave Plowman (News) wrote: I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on the 'ceiling' of a window reveal. I have some arthritis in my shoulders which makes pushing upwards painful for any length of time. And having drilled a number of holes in these tiles already on the walls 'a length of time' is what it takes - about 10 minutes drilling with a diamond bit per hole. Any bright ideas about some form of adjustable prop that would provide the upwards pressure on the drill? If it was me I'd be looking to construct a platform, on which I could comfortable lie on my back, that would put me in the right position to hold the drill comfortably. -- Mike Barnes Being on your back whilst drilling upwards is potentially a dangerous position to be in and the chance you moving fast in that position are minimal. agreed, if anything happens and drill slips from your grasp ...... ouch! |
#17
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Drilling upwards.
In article ,
dennis@home wrote: "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on the 'ceiling' of a window reveal. I have some arthritis in my shoulders which makes pushing upwards painful for any length of time. And having drilled a number of holes in these tiles already on the walls 'a length of time' is what it takes - about 10 minutes drilling with a diamond bit per hole. Any bright ideas about some form of adjustable prop that would provide the upwards pressure on the drill? Forget all the bright ideas for holding the drill up.. where are you and see if someone can pop around to drill the holes for you? Heh heh - not DIY, then? But I have booked a pal for the weekend if I can't manage it. BTW, my location is in my sig. Wish others would do the same. -- *When blondes have more fun, do they know it? Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#18
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Drilling upwards.
"dennis@home" wrote in message ... "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on the 'ceiling' of a window reveal. I have some arthritis in my shoulders which makes pushing upwards painful for any length of time. And having drilled a number of holes in these tiles already on the walls 'a length of time' is what it takes - about 10 minutes drilling with a diamond bit per hole. Any bright ideas about some form of adjustable prop that would provide the upwards pressure on the drill? Forget all the bright ideas for holding the drill up.. where are you and see if someone can pop around to drill the holes for you? I get really tired easily painting or trying to plaster ceilings Dennis....will you pop round and paint them for me? |
#19
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Drilling upwards.
In article ,
Slider wrote: I can fully appreciate your situation. I have recently had to drill 14 holes in porcelain tiles and it is hard work. Took me about 5 mins per hole using a 8mm diamond core drill. Drilling upwards is even harder as you also need to use water to keep the drill bit cool or it won't last 5 minutes. For an accurate position, I start with a centre punch, then move on to a 4mm tile drill or universal one to completely break the glaze to the right size - then change to a 6mm one to do the same - then go over to the 6mm diamond core drill with plenty of pauses and dipping in water. I'm in no rush and would prefer not to buy lots of these expensive drills. The first hole I drilled ruined a pukka tile drill by going too fast. A cheap Screwfix diamond one has managed about a dozen being careful - but is now knackered. I've just started with a DeWalt one which appears to be better quality - as well it might at the thick end of 20 quid. Can you make some sort of jig out of scrap timber and use a scissor type car jack to apply the upwards pressure? That was my original thought too - but drills don't tend to have flat backs so likely to slip off the jack. -- *No word in the English language rhymes with month, orange, silver,purple Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#20
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Drilling upwards.
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... In article , Slider wrote: I can fully appreciate your situation. I have recently had to drill 14 holes in porcelain tiles and it is hard work. Took me about 5 mins per hole using a 8mm diamond core drill. Drilling upwards is even harder as you also need to use water to keep the drill bit cool or it won't last 5 minutes. For an accurate position, I start with a centre punch, then move on to a 4mm tile drill or universal one to completely break the glaze to the right size - then change to a 6mm one to do the same - then go over to the 6mm diamond core drill with plenty of pauses and dipping in water. I'm in no rush and would prefer not to buy lots of these expensive drills. The first hole I drilled ruined a pukka tile drill by going too fast. A cheap Screwfix diamond one has managed about a dozen being careful - but is now knackered. I've just started with a DeWalt one which appears to be better quality - as well it might at the thick end of 20 quid. Can you make some sort of jig out of scrap timber and use a scissor type car jack to apply the upwards pressure? That was my original thought too - but drills don't tend to have flat backs so likely to slip off the jack. -- *No word in the English language rhymes with month, orange, silver,purple Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. I used the £20 Dewalt diamond core drill, comes it's own water cooler attachment (from Screwfix) |
#21
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Drilling upwards.
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... In article , dennis@home wrote: "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on the 'ceiling' of a window reveal. I have some arthritis in my shoulders which makes pushing upwards painful for any length of time. And having drilled a number of holes in these tiles already on the walls 'a length of time' is what it takes - about 10 minutes drilling with a diamond bit per hole. Any bright ideas about some form of adjustable prop that would provide the upwards pressure on the drill? Forget all the bright ideas for holding the drill up.. where are you and see if someone can pop around to drill the holes for you? Heh heh - not DIY, then? But I have booked a pal for the weekend if I can't manage it. BTW, my location is in my sig. Wish others would do the same. I never read sigs. |
#22
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Drilling upwards.
"George" wrote in message om... I get really tired easily painting or trying to plaster ceilings Dennis....will you pop round and paint them for me? You wouldn't want me to paint anything. ;-) |
#23
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Drilling upwards.
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
George wrote: "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on the 'ceiling' of a window reveal. I have some arthritis in my shoulders which makes pushing upwards painful for any length of time. And having drilled a number of holes in these tiles already on the walls 'a length of time' is what it takes - about 10 minutes drilling with a diamond bit per hole. Any bright ideas about some form of adjustable prop that would provide the upwards pressure on the drill? -- *Remember: First you pillage, then you burn. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. Sees no one has the brains to figure this one out logically and practically,so.... Know anyone with an old B&D drill stand? take out its normal pole and replace with one a few inchs short of the ceiling to window ledge. turn the stands drill anchoring retainer upside down,place drill mounted stand on window ledge and positon it for correct area to drill,push the drill upto the ceiling and use the drill lever to put pressure on the drilling this will enable you to drill like normal instead of upwards. You beat me to it - I was going to suggest the same. You don't really need to replace the pole - you just need to stand the base on some blocks of wood on the window cill so that the whole thing is at the right height. You'll still have to push upwards on the lever - but with a mechanical advantage, and probably in a more comfortable position than if you were pushing directly on the drill. You could even extend the lever by sliding a tube over it, but you'd probably need an assistant to steady the whole thing. -- Cheers, Roger ______ Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks. PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP! |
#24
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Drilling upwards.
"Roger Mills" wrote in message ... In an earlier contribution to this discussion, George wrote: "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on the 'ceiling' of a window reveal. I have some arthritis in my shoulders which makes pushing upwards painful for any length of time. And having drilled a number of holes in these tiles already on the walls 'a length of time' is what it takes - about 10 minutes drilling with a diamond bit per hole. Any bright ideas about some form of adjustable prop that would provide the upwards pressure on the drill? -- *Remember: First you pillage, then you burn. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. Sees no one has the brains to figure this one out logically and practically,so.... Know anyone with an old B&D drill stand? take out its normal pole and replace with one a few inchs short of the ceiling to window ledge. turn the stands drill anchoring retainer upside down,place drill mounted stand on window ledge and positon it for correct area to drill,push the drill upto the ceiling and use the drill lever to put pressure on the drilling this will enable you to drill like normal instead of upwards. You beat me to it - I was going to suggest the same. Yeah but I went one better...see an update post. |
#25
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Drilling upwards.
On 4 Aug, 23:28, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
I need to drill a number of holes upwards through porcelain tiles on the 'ceiling' of a window reveal. How far are you from the Medway? |
#26
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Drilling upwards.
In article ,
Slider wrote: I used the £20 Dewalt diamond core drill, comes it's own water cooler attachment (from Screwfix) Yes- I've got one. But you might tell me how to use the cooler on a ceiling. ;-) -- *I'm out of my mind, but feel free to leave a message. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#27
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Drilling upwards.
In article ,
dennis@home wrote: BTW, my location is in my sig. Wish others would do the same. I never read sigs. It's usually the best part of my posts. By some way. -- *The hardness of the butter is proportional to the softness of the bread * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#28
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Drilling upwards.
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... In article , Slider wrote: I used the £20 Dewalt diamond core drill, comes it's own water cooler attachment (from Screwfix) Yes- I've got one. But you might tell me how to use the cooler on a ceiling. ;-) -- *I'm out of my mind, but feel free to leave a message. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. I don't think the hire companies do them just yet,but you could try. ;-) http://tinyurl.com/3chcka |
#29
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Drilling upwards.
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , dennis@home wrote: BTW, my location is in my sig. Wish others would do the same. I never read sigs. It's usually the best part of my posts. By some way. I bet you're glad you chose porcelain tiles..... |
#30
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Drilling upwards.
On 5 Aug, 08:56, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
Actually a centre punch does work well for starting the hole. I tend to use the mini holesaw style of diamond bit, so a centre punched start isn't much help - I normally start the hole at an angle, then pivot the drill until it's perpendicular to the tile. But yes, 10 mins per hole sounds excessive. I take it easy given the cost of the drills. My employer pays for my drills ... But in smaller sizes the ones sold by Leyland SDM (Boa, I think) are pretty good and not overly expensive. I've found the B&D ones that Screwfix sell that include a lubrication kit work very well - but that won't work on a ceiling. So was intending just regularly dipping it in water. I don't want to soak things. It's interesting you say light pressure. I've found short bursts of very high pressure at low speed works best. Are you suggesting a higher speed at low pressure? If that works better it would alleviate my problem somewhat. I tend to use as high a speed as I can, plenty of water, and only as much pressure as needed - it normally starts off light, then builds up as I decide I'm bored of that hole ... Haven't - touch wood - been defeated yet John |
#31
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Drilling upwards.
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , Slider wrote: I can fully appreciate your situation. I have recently had to drill 14 holes in porcelain tiles and it is hard work. Took me about 5 mins per hole using a 8mm diamond core drill. Drilling upwards is even harder as you also need to use water to keep the drill bit cool or it won't last 5 minutes. For an accurate position, I start with a centre punch, then move on to a 4mm tile drill or universal one to completely break the glaze to the right size - then change to a 6mm one to do the same - then go over to the 6mm diamond core drill with plenty of pauses and dipping in water. I'm in no rush and would prefer not to buy lots of these expensive drills. The first hole I drilled ruined a pukka tile drill by going too fast. A cheap Screwfix diamond one has managed about a dozen being careful - but is now knackered. I've just started with a DeWalt one which appears to be better quality - as well it might at the thick end of 20 quid. Can you make some sort of jig out of scrap timber and use a scissor type car jack to apply the upwards pressure? That was my original thought too - but drills don't tend to have flat backs so likely to slip off the jack. just curious I have never used anything other than a normal masonry drill to drill a 6 mm hole in a tile, I use a hammer action as well and never broken one yet or spent 10 mins drilling one -- Kevin R Reply address works |
#32
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Drilling upwards.
In article ,
Kevin wrote: just curious I have never used anything other than a normal masonry drill to drill a 6 mm hole in a tile, I use a hammer action as well and never broken one yet or spent 10 mins drilling one You've not drilled porcelain tiles, then. They are extremely hard - and not all porcelain is the same either. These ones are the hardest I've come across. -- *A journey of a thousand sites begins with a single click * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
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Drilling upwards.
In article
, wrote: Actually a centre punch does work well for starting the hole. I tend to use the mini holesaw style of diamond bit, so a centre punched start isn't much help - I normally start the hole at an angle, then pivot the drill until it's perpendicular to the tile. Doesn't give an accurate position, though on the rough surface tiles I've got. I centre punch then use a multi-purpose 6mm drill to break the glaze and give a centre for the diamond one. That way I get the hole in exactly the right place. -- *Snowmen fall from Heaven unassembled* Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
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