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#1
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Timber basics article
Hi
Bit of feedback would be good before this timber basics wiki article goes live, since it covers patches I dont know a lot about.... here goes: ==Sizes== Most timber is sold in imperial sizes, with for example 2x4 meaning 2"x4". However this isn't the size of the wood as supplied, its the size its cut to before drying. The size when sold (after drying) is smaller. '''Timber sizes''' for rough sawn wood: :Nominal Real :1x2 ¾ x 1½ :1x3 ¾ x 2½ :1x4 ¾ x 3½ :1x6 ¾ x 5½ :2x2 1½ x 1½ :2x3 1½ x 2½ :2x4 1½ x 3½ :2x6 1½ x 5½ :2x8 1½ x 7¼ :2x10 1½ x 9¼ :2x12 1½ x 11¼ :4x4 3½ x 3½ Planed wood is a little smaller, usually by around 5-7mm each way. 2x4 PSE is just 2x4 rough sawn that has been planed to make it smooth. Some timber is sold in metric. With this the stated size is the size you get. ==Finishes== ;Rough sawn :Expect splinters aplenty. ;PAR :Planed All Round. There's no guarantee of accurate squareness with PAR, a lot of PAR is true, some not. PAR has mostly been supplanted by PSE today. Hand planing produces PAR. ;PSE :Planed Square Edge. This is planed all round with sides at 90 degrees. ;CLS :Canadian Lumber Standard. CLS is planed smooth, has rounded corners, and is free of large knots at the edge of the wood. These features reduce the spread of fire in [[Partition Wall|timber frame wall]] cavities. ==Qualities== ===Whitewood=== Whitewood is a grade of wood intended for [[First fix & second fix| first fix]] use, ie domestic woodwork that will not be seen when the project is complete. It may have splits, stains, and some warp. Whitewood is generally spruce pine. [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] sheds sell a lot of whitewood. The quality of whitewood on sale has improved over the years, and a percentage is good enough for [[First fix & second fix|second fix]]. ===Redwood=== Redwood is a grade of wood intended for [[First fix & second fix| second fix]] use, ie domestic woodwork that will be seen when the project is complete. Its mostly free from splits & stains, and generally has much less warp than whitewood, though warp is still an issue. Redwood is generally one of the many types of pine. ===Joinery=== Joinery timber is clear, with a knot-free surface. Its used for [[Furniture Links|furniture]]. ==Grading== Grading is a visual assessment of the structural strength of the timber. Key features assessed in grading are * Splits * Knots, especially large knots at the edge of the wood Most timber bought for [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] use is ungraded. This means it has sizeable knots at the edges, which affect its strength. Graded wood is stamped with the grading details. For new floor joists and roofing one should use graded timber. C16 is the most common grade, but C24 and some less common graded timber is also available. The higher spec grades may be used where dimensions need to be minimised. ==Species== Most wood used for [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] is pine of one variety or another, often spruce pine. Other species are also used, but command a higher price, limiting their use. ==Buying Wood== Ordering wood to be delivered means you don't pick the timber. This is ok for [[First fix & second fix|1st fix]], but with work where the wood needs to be straight it can be a problem, timber yards are known for sometimes using new customers to clear junk. ==Bent Wood== Bent stock is ever a problem. ===Warp=== Selective cutting or 'docking' deals with a lot of warp. Wood often warps at points (knots) rather than all along, so cutting it at those points gives shorter pieces of straight wood. In principle warp can also be stabilised by [[Adhesive|gluing]] and [[screws|screwing]] 2 pieces of warped timber back to back. Its not normally worth doing, but if you're stuck for one piece it may be quicker than going out. Warped wood is good for [[Partition Wall|framing]], where considerable warping is tolerable. When the warp is too bad, the wood can be cut short and used for noggings. ===Twist=== Twisted wood can sometimes be made good enough by cutting to short lengths, as the amount of twist on each piece is then much smaller. This often works for [[First fix & second fix|first fix]], but there's always more junk wood than uses for it. Other ways to deal with twisted wood a * Using it fixed firmly to something much stronger, thus forcing it to untwist * Use it for [[Partition Wall|framing]], which is somewhat tolerant of twist * Plane it to give smaller straight timber. * Don't buy it in the first place! ==Water Content== All timber contains some [[water]]. Where stabilty matters, which is most applications, timber should be either purchased with water content similar to final use, or else acclimatised before use. If ignored, warp and twist are more likely after fitting. ===Green & Seasoned=== Most wood for [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] work is seasoned. Green wood (meaning unseasoned rather than green in colour) has high [[water]] content, and is liable to move during drying, making it of limited use for [[Special:Allpages|DIY]]. The main exception is green oak used for oak frame. ==Durability== Most timber is not durable, meaning it soon rots if used outdoors without protection from water. The options for outdoor timber a * durable timber * non-durable timber plus wood preservatives or paint Well known durable species include * oak * red cedar Note that the sapwood of all species is non-durable, its heartwood thats durable. The majority of timber is heartwood. ==See Also== * [[Leylandii Wood]] * [[Holly]] * [[http://216.239.59.104/search? q=cache:IfN6hPrQTfUJ  ak.arch.utas.edu.au/glossary/glossary.pdf+timber+glossary&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=1&client=opera Timber Glossary]] * [[Special:Allpages|Wiki Contents]] * [[Special:Categories|Wiki Subject Categories]] [[Category:Wood]] |
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#2
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Timber basics article
Sounds very good. Very little I'd change/add.
I might mention "regularised" as in "regularised & treated" which is becoming more common for structural work. Has all four edges radiused for easy handling and is "hit and miss" planed. Also AIUI most structural timber is automatically stress graded by deflection testing, rather than visual grading. And AFAIK all timber is sold in 300mm length multiples. |
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#3
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Timber basics article
And AFAIK all timber is sold in 300mm length multiples. Although some (e.g. waney edge or rough sawn hardwoods) is priced by the cube (and some still mean cu. foot rather than cu metre). |
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#5
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Timber basics article
I've never seen timber sold in imperial sizes. *I know we all go to Wickes looking for a piece of 3 x 2 but its never marked, advertised or sold that way. The merchants I use regularly is entirely metric, but the other one in town still "talks" imperial. |
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#6
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Timber basics article
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#7
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Timber basics article
The Medway Handyman wrote:
I buy a lot of 150 x 50 & 100 x 50 sawn treated timber that is pretty much smooth to the touch e.g. can be freely handled without gloves & no splinters. Depends where you buy it I guess. Check to see if it is marked CLS rather than just KD - the former is designed to be safer to handle. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
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#8
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Timber basics article
wrote:
==Sizes== Most timber is sold in imperial sizes, with for example 2x4 meaning 2"x4". However this isn't the size of the wood as supplied, its the size its cut to before drying. The size when sold (after drying) is smaller. Minor point, but here in blighty we list the large dimension first. So that should be 4x2 '''Timber sizes''' for rough sawn wood: :Nominal Real :1x2 ¾ x 1½ :1x3 ¾ x 2½ :1x4 ¾ x 3½ :1x6 ¾ x 5½ :2x2 1½ x 1½ :2x3 1½ x 2½ :2x4 1½ x 3½ :2x6 1½ x 5½ :2x8 1½ x 7¼ :2x10 1½ x 9¼ :2x12 1½ x 11¼ :4x4 3½ x 3½ These seem small for KD sawn. Perhaps right for CLS. IME 100x50 KD sawn is pretty close to those sizes. Planed wood is a little smaller, usually by around 5-7mm each way. 2x4 PSE is just 2x4 rough sawn that has been planed to make it smooth. Some timber is sold in metric. With this the stated size is the size you get. I think most timber is sold in metric these days - even if we tend to order in imperial. :Canadian Lumber Standard. CLS is planed smooth, has rounded corners, and is free of large knots at the edge of the wood. These features reduce the spread of fire in [[Partition Wall|timber frame wall]] cavities. And make it safer to handle. Quite often cheaper than KD as well. However you need to watch carefully if mixing types in one project to keep things lined up in spite of the subtle variations of size. ==Qualities== ===Whitewood=== Whitewood is a grade of wood intended for [[First fix & second fix| first fix]] use, ie domestic woodwork that will not be seen when the project is complete. It may have splits, stains, and some warp. Whitewood is generally spruce pine. [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] sheds sell a lot of whitewood. The quality of whitewood on sale has improved over the years, and a percentage is good enough for [[First fix & second fix|second fix]]. ===Redwood=== Redwood is a grade of wood intended for [[First fix & second fix| second fix]] use, ie domestic woodwork that will be seen when the project is complete. Its mostly free from splits & stains, and generally has much less warp than whitewood, though warp is still an issue. Redwood is generally one of the many types of pine. ===Joinery=== Joinery timber is clear, with a knot-free surface. Its used for [[Furniture Links|furniture]]. ==Grading== Grading is a visual assessment of the structural strength of the timber. Key features assessed in grading are * Splits * Knots, especially large knots at the edge of the wood Most timber bought for [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] use is ungraded. This means it has sizeable knots at the edges, which affect its strength. Graded wood is stamped with the grading details. Much of the stuff you buy will be stress graded to C16. For new floor joists and roofing one should use graded timber. C16 is the most common grade, but C24 and some less common graded timber is also available. The higher spec grades may be used where dimensions need to be minimised. In addition to C24 being graded stronger, there will be a statistically smaller distribution of strengths when looking at a number of pieces. Hence for calculation purposes, you can assume a higher average strength - especially when a load is shared between several beams. ==Buying Wood== Ordering wood to be delivered means you don't pick the timber. This is ok for [[First fix & second fix|1st fix]], but with work where the wood needs to be straight it can be a problem, timber yards are known for sometimes using new customers to clear junk. ==Bent Wood== Bent stock is ever a problem. Might be worth a note saying not to confuse bent with "camber" - even straight enough stock may well have a slight camber (hence the tradition of sighting down each joist before laying, and cambering them all "up") ===Warp=== Selective cutting or 'docking' deals with a lot of warp. Wood often warps at points (knots) rather than all along, so cutting it at those points gives shorter pieces of straight wood. In principle warp can also be stabilised by [[Adhesive|gluing]] and [[screws|screwing]] 2 pieces of warped timber back to back. Its not normally worth doing, but if you're stuck for one piece it may be quicker than going out. Warped wood is good for [[Partition Wall|framing]], where considerable warping is tolerable. When the warp is too bad, the wood can be cut short and used for noggings. ===Twist=== Twisted wood can sometimes be made good enough by cutting to short lengths, as the amount of twist on each piece is then much smaller. This often works for [[First fix & second fix|first fix]], but there's always more junk wood than uses for it. Other ways to deal with twisted wood a * Using it fixed firmly to something much stronger, thus forcing it to untwist * Use it for [[Partition Wall|framing]], which is somewhat tolerant of twist * Plane it to give smaller straight timber. * Don't buy it in the first place! ==Water Content== All timber contains some [[water]]. Where stabilty matters, which is most applications, timber should be either purchased with water content similar to final use, or else acclimatised before use. If ignored, warp and twist are more likely after fitting. ===Green & Seasoned=== Most wood for [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] work is seasoned. Green wood (meaning unseasoned rather than green in colour) has high [[water]] content, and is liable to move during drying, making it of limited use for [[Special:Allpages|DIY]]. The main exception is green oak used for oak frame. Much construction timber will have been Kiln Dried to a specific water content (and will be stamped KD). However that does not control how it is then stored by the timber merchant! -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
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#9
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Timber basics article
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#10
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Timber basics article
John Rumm wrote:
Check to see if it is marked CLS rather than just KD - the former is designed to be safer to handle. I seem to remember that, for practical purposes, ALS = CLS. (Maybe for all purposes, but I don't know.) -- Rod Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious onset. Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed. www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org |
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#11
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Timber basics article
On 15 Jun, 21:12, wrote:
Hi Bit of feedback would be good before this timber basics wiki article goes live, since it covers patches I dont know a lot about.... here goes: ==Sizes== Most timber is sold in imperial sizes, with for example 2x4 meaning 2"x4". However this isn't the size of the wood as supplied, its the size its cut to before drying. The size when sold (after drying) is smaller. '''Timber sizes''' for rough sawn wood: :Nominal * * * *Real :1x2 * *¾ x 1½ :1x3 * *¾ x 2½ :1x4 * *¾ x 3½ :1x6 * *¾ x 5½ :2x2 * *1½ x 1½ :2x3 * *1½ x 2½ :2x4 * *1½ x 3½ :2x6 * *1½ x 5½ :2x8 * *1½ x 7¼ :2x10 * 1½ x 9¼ :2x12 * 1½ x 11¼ :4x4 * *3½ x 3½ Planed wood is a little smaller, usually by around 5-7mm each way. 2x4 PSE is just 2x4 rough sawn that has been planed to make it smooth. Some timber is sold in metric. With this the stated size is the size you get. ==Finishes== ;Rough sawn :Expect splinters aplenty. ;PAR :Planed All Round. There's no guarantee of accurate squareness with PAR, a lot of PAR is true, some not. PAR has mostly been supplanted by PSE today. Hand planing produces PAR. ;PSE :Planed Square Edge. This is planed all round with sides at 90 degrees. ;CLS :Canadian Lumber Standard. CLS is planed smooth, has rounded corners, and is free of large knots at the edge of the wood. These features reduce the spread of fire in [[Partition Wall|timber frame wall]] cavities. ==Qualities== ===Whitewood=== Whitewood is a grade of wood intended for [[First fix & second fix| first fix]] use, ie domestic woodwork that will not be seen when the project is complete. It may have splits, stains, and some warp. Whitewood is generally spruce pine. [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] sheds sell a lot of whitewood. The quality of whitewood on sale has improved over the years, and a percentage is good enough for [[First fix & second fix|second fix]]. ===Redwood=== Redwood is a grade of wood intended for [[First fix & second fix| second fix]] use, ie domestic woodwork that will be seen when the project is complete. Its mostly free from splits & stains, and generally has much less warp than whitewood, though warp is still an issue. Redwood is generally one of the many types of pine. ===Joinery=== Joinery timber is clear, with a knot-free surface. Its used for [[Furniture Links|furniture]]. ==Grading== Grading is a visual assessment of the structural strength of the timber. Key features assessed in grading are * Splits * Knots, especially large knots at the edge of the wood Most timber bought for [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] use is ungraded. This means it has sizeable knots at the edges, which affect its strength. Graded wood is stamped with the grading details. For new floor joists and roofing one should use graded timber. C16 is the most common grade, but C24 and some less common graded timber is also available. The higher spec grades may be used where dimensions need to be minimised. ==Species== Most wood used for [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] is pine of one variety or another, often spruce pine. Other species are also used, but command a higher price, limiting their use. ==Buying Wood== Ordering wood to be delivered means you don't pick the timber. This is ok for [[First fix & second fix|1st fix]], but with work where the wood needs to be straight it can be a problem, timber yards are known for sometimes using new customers to clear junk. ==Bent Wood== Bent stock is ever a problem. ===Warp=== Selective cutting or 'docking' deals with a lot of warp. Wood often warps at points (knots) rather than all along, so cutting it at those points gives shorter pieces of straight wood. In principle warp can also be stabilised by [[Adhesive|gluing]] and [[screws|screwing]] 2 pieces of warped timber back to back. Its not normally worth doing, but if you're stuck for one piece it may be quicker than going out. Warped wood is good for [[Partition Wall|framing]], where considerable warping is tolerable. When the warp is too bad, the wood can be cut short and used for noggings. ===Twist=== Twisted wood can sometimes be made good enough by cutting to short lengths, as the amount of twist on each piece is then much smaller. This often works for [[First fix & second fix|first fix]], but there's always more junk wood than uses for it. Other ways to deal with twisted wood a * Using it fixed firmly to something much stronger, thus forcing it to untwist * Use it for [[Partition Wall|framing]], which is somewhat tolerant of twist * Plane it to give smaller straight timber. * Don't buy it in the first place! ==Water Content== All timber contains some [[water]]. Where stabilty matters, which is most applications, timber should be either purchased with water content similar to final use, or else acclimatised before use. If ignored, warp and twist are more likely after fitting. ===Green & Seasoned=== Most wood for [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] work is seasoned. Green wood (meaning unseasoned rather than green in colour) has high [[water]] content, and is liable to move during drying, making it of limited use for [[Special:Allpages|DIY]]. The main exception is green oak used for oak frame. ==Durability== Most timber is not durable, meaning it soon rots if used outdoors without protection from water. The options for outdoor timber a * durable timber * non-durable timber plus wood preservatives or paint Well known durable species include * oak * red cedar Note that the sapwood of all species is non-durable, its heartwood thats durable. The majority of timber is heartwood. ==See Also== * [[Leylandii Wood]] * [[Holly]] * [[http://216.239.59.104/search? q=cache:IfN6hPrQTfUJ ak.arch.utas.edu.au/glossary/glossary.pdf+timber+glossary&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=1&client=opera Timber Glossary]] * [[Special:Allpages|Wiki Contents]] * [[Special:Categories|Wiki Subject Categories]] [[Category:Wood]] Dear meow2 Laudible effort and will be useful. Thanks Some points 1 White wood is (or should be) only Spruce eg Sitka (Picea sitchensis) or Norway (Picea abies) or the like and normally does not contain pine Redwood is normally (or should be) only Scots Pine (Pinus sylvestris) see 'http://www.british-trees.com/guide/scotspine.htm' 2 Decide where you mean spruce and where you mean pine and use one or the other 3 Moisture content Building regs require less than 18%w/w for structural timbers and if it feels heavy (say post treatment with Tanalith) don't buy it! It is always good to allow timber to equilibrate with the internal structure but most DIYs do not have the planning skills or SWIMBOs that allow timber to be bought 6 months in advance and put inside the house to equilibrate! Joinery timbers will shrink as they go from about 14 to 16% as sold down to 8 or 10% - its a fact of life unless you plan to avoid it. 4 Durability There are five grades of natural durability. All sapwood of all species is perishable. Only the heartwood can be graded for durability. There are five grades (BRE Digest 429) These are in order of durability Perishable (0 - 5 years in ground contact for a 2" x2" stake) Non-durable (5 - 10 years) Moderately Durable (10 - 15 years) Durable (15-25 years) and Very durable (25+). Examples are as follows: Perishable: Horse chestnut, birch, lime, poplar, willow, ramin, plane; Non-durable: Scots Pine, Beech, elm, fir (grand,noble sivler), hickory, maple, pine (American pitch, Canadian red, Corican, Jack, parana ponderosa, radiata), Spruce (Engleman European Eastern Canadian, Sitka American pitch pine Moderatetly durable: Central American cedar, Sweet Chestnut, Leyland Cyprus, kauri (NZ),Keuring, Larch (all types), Meranti, Pine (maritime), Oak (Turkey) Durable: Cedar (Western Red, yellow)Idigbo (getting popular these days) Meranti, American White oak, utile, yew Very durable: Oak (European), caphorwood, Ebony, Ekki, Lignum vitae, Teak, Greenheart You have yet to mention treatment .... eg Tanalith Aqauvac and double vac Chris |
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#12
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Timber basics article
4
Durability There are five grades of natural durability. All sapwood of all species is perishable. Only the heartwood can be graded for durability. There are five grades (BRE Digest 429) These are in order of durability Perishable (0 - 5 years in ground contact for a 2" x2" stake) Non-durable (5 - 10 years) Moderately Durable (10 - 15 years) Durable (15-25 years) and Very durable (25+). Examples are as follows: Perishable: Horse chestnut, birch, lime, poplar, willow, ramin, plane; Non-durable: Scots Pine, Beech, elm, fir (grand,noble sivler), hickory, maple, pine (American pitch, Canadian red, Corican, Jack, parana ponderosa, radiata), Spruce (Engleman European Eastern Canadian, Sitka American pitch pine Moderatetly durable: Central American cedar, Sweet Chestnut, Leyland Cyprus, kauri (NZ),Keuring, Larch (all types), Meranti, Pine (maritime), Oak (Turkey) Durable: Cedar (Western Red, yellow)Idigbo (getting popular these days) Meranti, American White oak, utile, yew Very durable: Oak (European), caphorwood, Ebony, Ekki, Lignum vitae, Teak, Greenheart ==== Chris, Very useful list. Can you confirm that these grades are for non-treated timmber? Thanks, Piers |
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#13
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Timber basics article
On 16 Jun, 21:00, "Piers Finlayson" wrote:
4 Durability There are five grades of natural durability. All sapwood of all species is perishable. Only the heartwood can be graded for durability. There are five grades (BRE Digest 429) *These are in order of durability Perishable (0 - 5 years in ground contact for a 2" x2" stake) Non-durable (5 - 10 years) Moderately Durable (10 - 15 years) Durable (15-25 years) and Very durable (25+). Examples are *as follows: Perishable: Horse chestnut, birch, lime, poplar, willow, ramin, plane; Non-durable: Scots Pine, Beech, elm, fir (grand,noble sivler), hickory, maple, pine (American pitch, Canadian red, Corican, Jack, parana ponderosa, radiata), Spruce (Engleman European Eastern Canadian, Sitka *American pitch pine Moderatetly durable: Central American cedar, Sweet Chestnut, Leyland Cyprus, kauri (NZ),Keuring, Larch (all types), Meranti, Pine (maritime), Oak (Turkey) Durable: Cedar (Western Red, yellow)Idigbo (getting popular these days) Meranti, American White oak, utile, yew Very durable: Oak (European), caphorwood, Ebony, Ekki, Lignum vitae, Teak, Greenheart ==== Chris, Very useful list. *Can you confirm that these grades are for non-treated timmber? Thanks, Piers Piers Yes This is NATURAL durability. The same digest deals with porosity - hence the propensity for proper treatment. For example, spruce is non porous and does not take pressure or other treatment well but Scots pine is permeable and does treat well. |
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#14
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Timber basics article
wrote in message ... Hi Bit of feedback would be good before this timber basics wiki article goes live, since it covers patches I dont know a lot about.... here goes: Any idea where the word timber came from, and there doesn;t seem to be a mention of using the word as a warning to "get out of the way" when cutting trees down ;-) |
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#15
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Timber basics article
whisky-dave wrote:
Any idea where the word timber came from, and there doesn;t seem to be a mention of using the word as a warning to "get out of the way" when cutting trees down ;-) You shouldn't have asked that. :-) timber O.E. timber "building, structure," later "building material, trees suitable for building," and "wood in general," from P.Gmc. *temran (cf. O.Fris. timber "wood, building," O.H.G. zimbar "timber, wooden dwelling, room," O.N. timbr "timber," Ger. Zimmer "room"), from PIE *demrom-, from base *dem-/*dom- "build" (source of Gk. domos, L. domus; see domestic). The O.E. verb timbran, timbrian was the chief word for "to build" (cf. Du. timmeren, Ger. zimmern). As a call of warning when a cut tree is about to fall, it is attested from 1912 in Canadian Eng. Timbers in the nautical slang sense (see shiver (n.)) is from the specialized meaning "pieces of wood composing the frames of a ship's hull" (1748). http://www.etymonline.com/index.php?term=timber tim·ber (tim€²bÉ™r) noun a building building material wood suitable for building houses, ships, etc., whether cut or still in the form of trees a large, heavy, dressed piece of wood used in building; beam Brit. lumber () trees or forests collectively personal quality or character a man of his timber Shipbuilding a wooden rib Etymology: ME OE, akin to Ger zimmer, room ( OHG zimbar, wooden structure) IE base *dem-, *dema-, to join together, build L domus, house http://www.yourdictionary.com/timber -- Rod Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious onset. Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed. www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org |
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Timber basics article
Rod wrote:
whisky-dave wrote: Any idea where the word timber came from, and there doesn;t seem to be a mention of using the word as a warning to "get out of the way" when cutting trees down ;-) You shouldn't have asked that. :-) timber SNIP Ah. Someone else with a love of English! Zooterkins! |
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#17
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Timber basics article
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Rod wrote: whisky-dave wrote: Any idea where the word timber came from, and there doesn;t seem to be a mention of using the word as a warning to "get out of the way" when cutting trees down ;-) You shouldn't have asked that. :-) timber SNIP Ah. Someone else with a love of English! Zooterkins! Looks like it (zimbar/timber) could be an example of the High German consonant shift. (Thanks Wiki :-) ) -- Rod Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious onset. Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed. www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org |
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#18
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Timber basics article
lots of people wrote:
Thanks everyone for the feedback, lots of good stuff. When I get time I'll do more rewriting. For now a few comments & qs: Dimensions - will rethink that bit. In addition to C24 being graded stronger, there will be a statistically smaller distribution of strengths when looking at a number of pieces. Hence for calculation purposes, you can assume a higher average strength - especially when a load is shared between several beams. Point taken, but I think thats outside of a basics article. This is more intended to be info for people not yet familiar with the basic terms and concepts, a place to begin. A 2nd article for that sort of info would be good, but I cant think of a good name for it There are five grades of natural durability. Going to keep that for a more in depth timber article, which would be a bit beyond me to write on my own, but I can make a start some time. You have yet to mention treatment .... eg Tanalith Aqauvac and double vac yes, but again for a deeper article I think. And I dont know much about it. Timberboard: is the surface sanded or just planed? IME planing is unable to remove all surface imperfections since the angle of wood fibres is invariably wrong somewhere. thanks, NT |
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#19
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Timber basics article
Draft no 2 of the Timber Basics article... I've added more sections
too. Lets see what you think. ==Timber Sizes== The timber industry has long operated in imperial sizes, and imperial terms are still in widespread use today. However legislation has outlawed the sale of goods in inches and feet, so timber is marked as the nearest metric size to the standard imperial sizes. Most timber is bought in imperial sizes, with for example 2x4 meaning 2"x4", however sellers must describe it in metric and an increasing amount of timber is bought as metric sizes. For rough sawn wood the nominal size is usually very close to the real size supplied. However this isn't so in all cases, especially when dealing with used wood. Its not unusual to find historic 2x4s that are nearer 1.5" x 3.5" Planed wood is a little smaller than rough, usually by about ¼" or 5-7mm each way. 2x4 PSE is simply 2x4 rough sawn that has been planed to make it smooth. When timber is sold in metric, the stated size is the size you get. ===Length=== Timber is sold in various lengths that are multiples of 30cm (a foot). Most common are 6', 8' & 10'. Several longer sizes are also sold. Note however that the metric equivalent lengths are very slightly shorter than imperial, so if you need exactly 8', 2.4m is slightly short. ==Price== Most timber is sold by price per length, and some by price per cubic foot. Some example price lists: * http://www.woodyalan.co.uk/timberpriceseb.htm * http://www.fortimber.demon.co.uk/products.htm * http://www.adhectic.co.uk * http://www.wickes.co.uk/Shop/Timber/icat/timber * http://www.tottontimber.co.uk/ These are not company recommendations ==Terms== ;Rough sawn :Usually a splintery finish, but smoother sawn surfaces are seen on some goods. ;PAR :Planed All Round. There's no guarantee of accurate squareness with PAR, a lot of PAR is true, some not. PAR has mostly been supplanted by PSE today. Hand planing produces PAR. ;PSE :Planed Square Edge. This is planed all round with sides accurately at 90 degrees. ;PFS : ;CLS :Canadian Lumber Standard. CLS is planed smooth, has rounded corners, and is free of large knots at the edge of the wood. These features reduce the spread of fire in [[Partition Wall|timber frame wall]] cavities and make it safer to handle. ;ALS : American Lumber Standard, very similar to CLS ;Regularised : Similar to CLS but the planed surface is not consistently smooth, it may be rough sawn in areas. ;Kiln dried, KD : timber dried to a specified moisture content. However poor storage by the merchant (after drying) may result in higher moisture content. ==Qualities== ===Whitewood=== Whitewood is spruce timber intended for [[First fix & second fix|first fix]] use, ie domestic woodwork that will not be seen when the project is complete. It may have some splits & stains and some warp. [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] sheds sell a lot of whitewood. The quality of whitewood on sale has improved over the years, and a percentage is good enough for [[First fix & second fix|second fix]]. Spruce doesn't take dyes well, and preservatives have limited penetration. ===Redwood=== Redwood is a grade of wood intended for [[First fix & second fix| second fix]] use, ie domestic woodwork that will be seen when the project is complete. Its mostly free from splits & stains, and generally has much less warp than whitewood, though warp is still an issue. Redwood is generally spruce, fir or pine. ===Joinery=== Joinery timber is clear, with a knot-free surface. Its used for [[Furniture Links|furniture]]. ==Grading== Grading is an assessment of the structural strength of the timber. Key features assessed in grading are splits and knots, especially large knots at the edge of the wood. Small timber bought for [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] use is mostly ungraded. Graded wood is stamped with the grading details. For new floor joists and roofing one should use graded timber. C16 is the most common grade, but C24 and some less common timber grades are also available. The higher spec grades may be used where dimensions need to be minimised. ==Species== Most wood used for [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] is spruce, fir or a pine. Other species are also used, but command a higher price, limiting their use. ==Buying Wood== Ordering wood to be delivered means you don't pick the timber. This is ok for [[First fix & second fix|1st fix]], but with work where the wood needs to be straight it can be a problem, timber yards are known for sometimes using new customers to clear junk. ==Problem Wood== Bent stock is a regular problem. ===Warp=== Selective cutting or 'docking' deals with a lot of warp. Wood often warps at points (knots) rather than all along, so cutting it at those points gives shorter pieces of straight wood. In principle warp can also be straightened by [[Adhesive|gluing]] and [[screws|screwing]] 2 pieces of warped timber back to back. Its not normally worth doing, but if you're stuck for one piece it might be quicker than going out. Warped wood is good for [[Partition Wall|framing]], where considerable warping is tolerable. When the warp is too bad, the wood can be cut short and used for noggings. ===Twist=== Twisted wood can sometimes be made good enough by cutting to short lengths, as the amount of twist on each piece is then much smaller. This often works for [[First fix & second fix|first fix]], but there's always more junk wood than uses for it. Other ways to deal with twisted wood a * Using it fixed firmly to something much stronger, thus forcing it to untwist * Use it for [[Partition Wall|framing]], which is somewhat tolerant of twist * Plane it to give smaller straight timber. * Don't buy it in the first place! ===Cupping=== Planks are prone to cupping, whereby one side becomes convex and the other concave. If its desired to fix it, wetting the dished side will expand it a little, and it can then be dried while weighted flat. The thinner the plank, the more chance of success. ===Stability=== Timber defects can often be worked around, but warped or twisted timber has bent since cutting, and is thus unstable. Changes in moisture content are prone to producing movement again. This further restricts the uses for such wood. ===Uses for junk wood=== [[Partition Wall|Timber framing]] is the main use. All sorts of defects can be hidden behind [[Sheet Materials|plasterboard]] once finished. * Wood with [[paint]], [[nails]] or damage will all be hidden * Bent wood can be fitted bending sideways * Even wood bent both ways will only cause gentle undulation on the plasterboard if not too bad, and this usually isn't noticeable. * Split wood can be used too, adding a few [[screws]] to fix it together. * Almost anything can be used as noggings: undersize, odd shaped, badly bent, even [[Adhesive|glued]] offcuts. Mildly bent wood can also be used in timber framed [[Sheds|shed construction]]. Its hidden by the cladding. ==Water Content== All timber contains some [[water]]. Where stabilty matters, which is most applications, timber should be either purchased with water content similar to final use, or else acclimatised before use. If ignored, warp and twist are more likely after fitting. Timber used in new build for structural elements is required to have a maximum of 18% water content. (Many houses have been built with green timber.) ===Green & Seasoned=== Most wood for [[Special:Allpages|DIY work]] is seasoned. Green wood (meaning unseasoned rather than green in colour) has high [[water]] content, and is liable to move during drying, making it of limited use for [[Special:Allpages|DIY]]. The main exception is green oak used for oak frame. Timber frame [[sheds]] can also be built with green, as some movement on drying is usually acceptable. ==Durability== Most DIY timber is not durable, meaning it soon [[Wood Rot|rots]] if used outdoors without protection from [[water]]. The options for outdoor timber a * durable timber * non-durable timber plus [[Wood Preservatives|wood preservative]] or [[paint]] Well known durable species include * oak (very durable) * red cedar Note that the sapwood of all species is non-durable, its heartwood that's durable. The majority of timber is heartwood, with only the outer layer of the tree (under the bark) being sapwood. ===Treatment=== Timber is available ready treated against rot. Vacuum treated timber is most effectively preserved, as the [[Wood Preservatives|chemical]] soaks further into the wood. Cutting it exposes unpreserved ends, which should be [[Wood Preservatives|treated]] for best life expectancy. When applying [[Wood Preservatives|preservative]], the cut ends need the most attention, as they soak up water like a sponge. Cut ends will usually sponge up several coats of preservative, which helps it last longer. ==Board== Timber also comes in board form. The most common types are hardboard, chipboard, MDF, plywood and timberboard. These are all described in [[Sheet Materials]]. [[Sheet Materials#Hardboard|Hardboard]]: thin non-rigid brown board, typically 3mm thick. Most used as low cost drawer bottoms. [[Sheet Materials#Chipboard|Chipboard]]: wood chippings glued together, and sometimes coated with white melamine, brown imitation wood veneer etc. Most common furniture board in Britain. Usually fairly weak and vulnerable to water. [[Sheet Materials#MDF|MDF]]: a uniform brown material, can be machined and worked without grain being an issue. Vulnerable to water and not very strong. [[Sheet Materials#Plywood|Plywood]]: Available in many grades for different purposes. Dimensionally stable, strong in both directions, and one of the stronger wooden board types. Lower cost plywoods are vulnerable to water and delaminate fairly easily. [[Sheet Materials#Timberboard|Timberboard]]: Strips of wood glued side by side to create flat board. Gives a real wood finish. Strong along the grain, less so across. Cups badly if exposed to water on one side for a day, but normal cup spills don't do this. ==Pine== Pine is a genus of conifers covering many different varieties of tree. Timber described as pine isn't necessarily a pine species at all, but it will have much the same appearance and properties, making the end result the same. Redwood has the highest odds of being real pine. ==Drilling holes== Most holes [[Drill Bits|drilled]] in wood are either pilot holes, clearance holes or countersink holes. '''Clearance holes''' allow the [[screws|screw]] to slide through freely. An ideal size for this is the full width of the screw shank plus half a millimetre. Hole size isn't critical, but if too large the head may sink into the hole when tightened, enlarging the hole in the process. '''Pilot holes''' are holes that enable [[screws|screws]] to be driven in without difficulty or risk of splitting the wood. A good size for pilot holes is half a milimetre slightly larger than the narrowest width seen on the screw spiral. '''Countersink holes''' are very shallow tapering holes for the [[screws|screw head]] to sit in. These allow a counterunk head to sit flush with the surface. They are generally [[Drill Bits|drilled]] using a [[Drill Bits|countersink]], but can also be made with a large drill bit. In most cases the size and shape of the countersinking hole need not match the screw head well, as the head will distort the wood under it to some extent. /| ____ /\/\/\/\/\/\/ | pilot hole ____ | \/\/\/\/\/\/\ | \| ____ /| /\/\/\/\/\/\/ | clearance hole | ____ \/\/\/\/\/\/\ | \| ____ /| /\/\/\/\/\/\/ | | countersink \/\/\/\/\/\/\ | \| ____ Guide to Approximate Hole Sizes ===Pilot Holes=== Experience will soon tell you when to use a pilot hole and when not. Generally speaking, small screws in medium timber or bigger don't need pilot holes, but with medium to big screws or small timber the chances are a pilot hole would be wise. Lack of pilot hole can cause splitting in small wood, or jamming with medium to large screws. ===Countersink holes=== Again sometimes they're needed, sometimes not. [[screws|Plasterboard screws]] have heads that penetrate less than traditional countersunk heads, and can usually be sunk fine without [[Drilling Techniques| drilling]] first. ===Knots=== Knots are made of much tougher material than the surrounding wood. Screwing into knots with standard size pilot holes causes the wood to split. Its generally best to avoid knots when fixing, but sometimes a [[screws|screw]] is needed there. A simple solution is to use a slightly larger pilot hole, then they behave fine, good grip and no splits. Never try to screw a knot with no pilot hole. [[Nails]] may be driven through knots if a pilot hole is [[Drill Bits| drilled]] first - though this is rarely necessary. Don't attempt to nail a knot without pre-drilling. ==Difficult screws== ===Going in=== Awkward [[screws]] that are proving difficult to get in mean you need a pilot hole, or a bigger pilot hole. If the right [[Drill Bits|drill bit]] isn't to hand, dipping the screw in oil makes a difference and is often enough. Dipping a screw in oil before driving reduces friction, requiring less energy to get the job done. Various substitutes can be used, such as margerine, chocolate, etc. Don't labour over a tough [[screw]], if it won't go in just take it out and fix the problem. If you keep at it you'll only end up with a well jammed screw that requires repeated curses to get out. ===Coming out=== There are numerous ways to get stuck screws out. See [[Screws#Removing a Damaged Screw|Removing a Damaged Screw]] ==Used wood== There is a gotcha with used wood: most power [[saws]] and embedded [[nails]] really don't mix well. If you regularly use old timber, nail- safe circular saw blades are available. For occasional work one can use a hand saw or jigsaw. Nails can damage the blades on these, but not the operator. Planes are also vulnerable, so used wood is generally better not planed. ==See Also== * [[Sheet Materials#Plywood|Plywood]] * [[:Category:Wood|All Wood category articles]] * [[http://216.239.59.104/search? q=cache:IfN6hPrQTfUJ ak.arch.utas.edu.au/glossary/glossary.pdf+timber+glossary&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=1&client=opera Timber Glossary]] * [http://books.google.com/books? id=mUGSaiTsBAIC&pg=PT145&lpg=PT145&dq=als+timber+O R +lumber&source=web&ots=yzFgcVS0MP&sig=neigDU6TFms5 xcylsvqp9XUuBa8&hl=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=3 &ct=result Timber abbreviations] * [[Special:Allpages|Wiki Contents]] * [[Special:Categories|Wiki Subject Categories]] [[Category:Wood]] |
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#20
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Timber basics article
Draft no 2 of the Timber Basics article... I've added more sections
too. Lets see what you think. ==Timber Sizes== The timber industry has long operated in imperial sizes, and imperial terms are still in widespread use today. However legislation has outlawed the sale of goods in inches and feet, so timber is marked as the nearest metric size to the standard imperial sizes. Most timber is bought in imperial sizes, with for example 2x4 meaning 2"x4", however sellers must describe it in metric and an increasing amount of timber is bought as metric sizes. For rough sawn wood the nominal size is usually very close to the real size supplied. However this isn't so in all cases, especially when dealing with used wood. Its not unusual to find historic 2x4s that are nearer 1.5" x 3.5" Planed wood is a little smaller than rough, usually by about ¼" or 5-7mm each way. 2x4 PSE is simply 2x4 rough sawn that has been planed to make it smooth. When timber is sold in metric, the stated size is the size you get. ===Length=== Timber is sold in various lengths that are multiples of 30cm (a foot). Most common are 6', 8' & 10'. Several longer sizes are also sold. Note however that the metric equivalent lengths are very slightly shorter than imperial, so if you need exactly 8', 2.4m is slightly short. ==Price== Most timber is sold by price per length, and some by price per cubic foot. Some example price lists: * http://www.woodyalan.co.uk/timberpriceseb.htm * http://www.fortimber.demon.co.uk/products.htm * http://www.adhectic.co.uk * http://www.wickes.co.uk/Shop/Timber/icat/timber * http://www.tottontimber.co.uk/ These are not company recommendations ==Terms== ;Rough sawn :Usually a splintery finish, but smoother sawn surfaces are seen on some goods. ;PAR :Planed All Round. There's no guarantee of accurate squareness with PAR, a lot of PAR is true, some not. PAR has mostly been supplanted by PSE today. Hand planing produces PAR. ;PSE :Planed Square Edge. This is planed all round with sides accurately at 90 degrees. ;PFS : ;CLS :Canadian Lumber Standard. CLS is planed smooth, has rounded corners, and is free of large knots at the edge of the wood. These features reduce the spread of fire in [[Partition Wall|timber frame wall]] cavities and make it safer to handle. ;ALS : American Lumber Standard, very similar to CLS ;Regularised : Similar to CLS but the planed surface is not consistently smooth, it may be rough sawn in areas. ;Kiln dried, KD : timber dried to a specified moisture content. However poor storage by the merchant (after drying) may result in higher moisture content. ==Qualities== ===Whitewood=== Whitewood is spruce timber intended for [[First fix & second fix|first fix]] use, ie domestic woodwork that will not be seen when the project is complete. It may have some splits & stains and some warp. [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] sheds sell a lot of whitewood. The quality of whitewood on sale has improved over the years, and a percentage is good enough for [[First fix & second fix|second fix]]. Spruce doesn't take dyes well, and preservatives have limited penetration. ===Redwood=== Redwood is a grade of wood intended for [[First fix & second fix| second fix]] use, ie domestic woodwork that will be seen when the project is complete. Its mostly free from splits & stains, and generally has much less warp than whitewood, though warp is still an issue. Redwood is generally spruce, fir or pine. ===Joinery=== Joinery timber is clear, with a knot-free surface. Its used for [[Furniture Links|furniture]]. ==Grading== Grading is an assessment of the structural strength of the timber. Key features assessed in grading are splits and knots, especially large knots at the edge of the wood. Small timber bought for [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] use is mostly ungraded. Graded wood is stamped with the grading details. For new floor joists and roofing one should use graded timber. C16 is the most common grade, but C24 and some less common timber grades are also available. The higher spec grades may be used where dimensions need to be minimised. ==Species== Most wood used for [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] is spruce, fir or a pine. Other species are also used, but command a higher price, limiting their use. ==Buying Wood== Ordering wood to be delivered means you don't pick the timber. This is ok for [[First fix & second fix|1st fix]], but with work where the wood needs to be straight it can be a problem, timber yards are known for sometimes using new customers to clear junk. ==Problem Wood== Bent stock is a regular problem. ===Warp=== Selective cutting or 'docking' deals with a lot of warp. Wood often warps at points (knots) rather than all along, so cutting it at those points gives shorter pieces of straight wood. In principle warp can also be straightened by [[Adhesive|gluing]] and [[screws|screwing]] 2 pieces of warped timber back to back. Its not normally worth doing, but if you're stuck for one piece it might be quicker than going out. Warped wood is good for [[Partition Wall|framing]], where considerable warping is tolerable. When the warp is too bad, the wood can be cut short and used for noggings. ===Twist=== Twisted wood can sometimes be made good enough by cutting to short lengths, as the amount of twist on each piece is then much smaller. This often works for [[First fix & second fix|first fix]], but there's always more junk wood than uses for it. Other ways to deal with twisted wood a * Using it fixed firmly to something much stronger, thus forcing it to untwist * Use it for [[Partition Wall|framing]], which is somewhat tolerant of twist * Plane it to give smaller straight timber. * Don't buy it in the first place! ===Cupping=== Planks are prone to cupping, whereby one side becomes convex and the other concave. If its desired to fix it, wetting the dished side will expand it a little, and it can then be dried while weighted flat. The thinner the plank, the more chance of success. ===Stability=== Timber defects can often be worked around, but warped or twisted timber has bent since cutting, and is thus unstable. Changes in moisture content are prone to producing movement again. This further restricts the uses for such wood. ===Uses for junk wood=== [[Partition Wall|Timber framing]] is the main use. All sorts of defects can be hidden behind [[Sheet Materials|plasterboard]] once finished. * Wood with [[paint]], [[nails]] or damage will all be hidden * Bent wood can be fitted bending sideways * Even wood bent both ways will only cause gentle undulation on the plasterboard if not too bad, and this usually isn't noticeable. * Split wood can be used too, adding a few [[screws]] to fix it together. * Almost anything can be used as noggings: undersize, odd shaped, badly bent, even [[Adhesive|glued]] offcuts. Mildly bent wood can also be used in timber framed [[Sheds|shed construction]]. Its hidden by the cladding. ==Water Content== All timber contains some [[water]]. Where stabilty matters, which is most applications, timber should be either purchased with water content similar to final use, or else acclimatised before use. If ignored, warp and twist are more likely after fitting. Timber used in new build for structural elements is required to have a maximum of 18% water content. (Many houses have been built with green timber.) ===Green & Seasoned=== Most wood for [[Special:Allpages|DIY work]] is seasoned. Green wood (meaning unseasoned rather than green in colour) has high [[water]] content, and is liable to move during drying, making it of limited use for [[Special:Allpages|DIY]]. The main exception is green oak used for oak frame. Timber frame [[sheds]] can also be built with green, as some movement on drying is usually acceptable. ==Durability== Most DIY timber is not durable, meaning it soon [[Wood Rot|rots]] if used outdoors without protection from [[water]]. The options for outdoor timber a * durable timber * non-durable timber plus [[Wood Preservatives|wood preservative]] or [[paint]] Well known durable species include * oak (very durable) * red cedar Note that the sapwood of all species is non-durable, its heartwood that's durable. The majority of timber is heartwood, with only the outer layer of the tree (under the bark) being sapwood. ===Treatment=== Timber is available ready treated against rot. Vacuum treated timber is most effectively preserved, as the [[Wood Preservatives|chemical]] soaks further into the wood. Cutting it exposes unpreserved ends, which should be [[Wood Preservatives|treated]] for best life expectancy. When applying [[Wood Preservatives|preservative]], the cut ends need the most attention, as they soak up water like a sponge. Cut ends will usually sponge up several coats of preservative, which helps it last longer. ==Board== Timber also comes in board form. The most common types are hardboard, chipboard, MDF, plywood and timberboard. These are all described in [[Sheet Materials]]. [[Sheet Materials#Hardboard|Hardboard]]: thin non-rigid brown board, typically 3mm thick. Most used as low cost drawer bottoms. [[Sheet Materials#Chipboard|Chipboard]]: wood chippings glued together, and sometimes coated with white melamine, brown imitation wood veneer etc. Most common furniture board in Britain. Usually fairly weak and vulnerable to water. [[Sheet Materials#MDF|MDF]]: a uniform brown material, can be machined and worked without grain being an issue. Vulnerable to water and not very strong. [[Sheet Materials#Plywood|Plywood]]: Available in many grades for different purposes. Dimensionally stable, strong in both directions, and one of the stronger wooden board types. Lower cost plywoods are vulnerable to water and delaminate fairly easily. [[Sheet Materials#Timberboard|Timberboard]]: Strips of wood glued side by side to create flat board. Gives a real wood finish. Strong along the grain, less so across. Cups badly if exposed to water on one side for a day, but normal cup spills don't do this. ==Pine== Pine is a genus of conifers covering many different varieties of tree. Timber described as pine isn't necessarily a pine species at all, but it will have much the same appearance and properties, making the end result the same. Redwood has the highest odds of being real pine. ==Drilling holes== Most holes [[Drill Bits|drilled]] in wood are either pilot holes, clearance holes or countersink holes. '''Clearance holes''' allow the [[screws|screw]] to slide through freely. An ideal size for this is the full width of the screw shank plus half a millimetre. Hole size isn't critical, but if too large the head may sink into the hole when tightened, enlarging the hole in the process. '''Pilot holes''' are holes that enable [[screws|screws]] to be driven in without difficulty or risk of splitting the wood. A good size for pilot holes is half a milimetre slightly larger than the narrowest width seen on the screw spiral. '''Countersink holes''' are very shallow tapering holes for the [[screws|screw head]] to sit in. These allow a counterunk head to sit flush with the surface. They are generally [[Drill Bits|drilled]] using a [[Drill Bits|countersink]], but can also be made with a large drill bit. In most cases the size and shape of the countersinking hole need not match the screw head well, as the head will distort the wood under it to some extent. /| ____ /\/\/\/\/\/\/ | pilot hole ____ | \/\/\/\/\/\/\ | \| ____ /| /\/\/\/\/\/\/ | clearance hole | ____ \/\/\/\/\/\/\ | \| ____ /| /\/\/\/\/\/\/ | | countersink \/\/\/\/\/\/\ | \| ____ Guide to Approximate Hole Sizes ===Pilot Holes=== Experience will soon tell you when to use a pilot hole and when not. Generally speaking, small screws in medium timber or bigger don't need pilot holes, but with medium to big screws or small timber the chances are a pilot hole would be wise. Lack of pilot hole can cause splitting in small wood, or jamming with medium to large screws. ===Countersink holes=== Again sometimes they're needed, sometimes not. [[screws|Plasterboard screws]] have heads that penetrate less than traditional countersunk heads, and can usually be sunk fine without [[Drilling Techniques| drilling]] first. ===Knots=== Knots are made of much tougher material than the surrounding wood. Screwing into knots with standard size pilot holes causes the wood to split. Its generally best to avoid knots when fixing, but sometimes a [[screws|screw]] is needed there. A simple solution is to use a slightly larger pilot hole, then they behave fine, good grip and no splits. Never try to screw a knot with no pilot hole. [[Nails]] may be driven through knots if a pilot hole is [[Drill Bits| drilled]] first - though this is rarely necessary. Don't attempt to nail a knot without pre-drilling. ==Difficult screws== ===Going in=== Awkward [[screws]] that are proving difficult to get in mean you need a pilot hole, or a bigger pilot hole. If the right [[Drill Bits|drill bit]] isn't to hand, dipping the screw in oil makes a difference and is often enough. Dipping a screw in oil before driving reduces friction, requiring less energy to get the job done. Various substitutes can be used, such as margerine, chocolate, etc. Don't labour over a tough [[screw]], if it won't go in just take it out and fix the problem. If you keep at it you'll only end up with a well jammed screw that requires repeated curses to get out. ===Coming out=== There are numerous ways to get stuck screws out. See [[Screws#Removing a Damaged Screw|Removing a Damaged Screw]] ==Used wood== There is a gotcha with used wood: most power [[saws]] and embedded [[nails]] really don't mix well. If you regularly use old timber, nail- safe circular saw blades are available. For occasional work one can use a hand saw or jigsaw. Nails can damage the blades on these, but not the operator. Planes are also vulnerable, so used wood is generally better not planed. ==See Also== * [[Sheet Materials#Plywood|Plywood]] * [[:Category:Wood|All Wood category articles]] * [[http://216.239.59.104/search? q=cache:IfN6hPrQTfUJ ak.arch.utas.edu.au/glossary/glossary.pdf+timber+glossary&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=1&client=opera Timber Glossary]] * [http://books.google.com/books? id=mUGSaiTsBAIC&pg=PT145&lpg=PT145&dq=als+timber+O R +lumber&source=web&ots=yzFgcVS0MP&sig=neigDU6TFms5 xcylsvqp9XUuBa8&hl=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=3 &ct=result Timber abbreviations] * [[Special:Allpages|Wiki Contents]] * [[Special:Categories|Wiki Subject Categories]] [[Category:Wood]] |
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#21
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Timber basics article
Just a couple of points. Since these 2 species are what most people end
up with, I thought a little more detail might be appropriate. Use anything you like and dump the rest :-) ==Qualities== ===Whitewood=== Whitewood is spruce timber intended for [[First fix & second fix|first fix]] use, ie domestic woodwork that will not be seen when the project is complete. It may have some splits & stains and some warp. [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] sheds sell a lot of whitewood. The quality of whitewood on sale has improved over the years, and a percentage is good enough for [[First fix & second fix|second fix]]. Spruce doesn't take dyes well, and preservatives have limited penetration. Basically the Christmas tree, Picea abies. Mainly used for 150mm x 25mm flooring because it is reputed to be more stable than redwood, and is a good deal cheaper. Its use in other fields is restricted commercially because a) it has a woolly structure and is difficult to machine to a fine finish, b) it dulls cutters, and c) the knots are unstable. However, the better grades are uniform, virtually knot-free, and useful where a pale colour is required without the obtrusive orange look of redwood. An underrated timber for interior work IMO. ===Redwood=== Redwood is a grade of wood intended for [[First fix & second fix| second fix]] use, ie domestic woodwork that will be seen when the project is complete. Its mostly free from splits & stains, and generally has much less warp than whitewood, though warp is still an issue. Redwood is generally spruce, fir or pine. Redwood (European redwood, Scots Pine) *should* always be pinus sylvestris. It forms 90% of the stock of most timber merchants, including the vast majority of mouldings, architrave, skirting etc. Quality (and price) depends on how far north it's grown and, since the average customer has no way of assessing this, using a reputable merchant is the only guide. All redwood is "kiln dried", that is to say it's dried at source to an *average* moisture content of 17% ("shipping dry") to prevent blue stain and other fungal infections. Technically this makes it unsuitable for interior work in a modern, centrally heated house where a content of 10% or less would be more appropriate. Leaving it in the building to acclimatise is obviously recommended but the drying out doesn't happen quickly. Depending on the amount of material, it can take several weeks for, say, floorboards to reduce across the width. Buying either of these species from the sheds isn't recommended. In the case of whitewood I'm not even sure they haven't discovered some new, truly appalling species that they're allowed to call "whitewood". I'm a real cheapskate but shed timber represents poor value compared to a pukka merchant IME. Also, the likes of B&Q simply don't have the facilities to store timber, which should be kept under cover but in outdoor conditions. The shrink wrap compromise doesn't seem to work very well. |
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#22
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Timber basics article
On Jun 20, 4:10*pm, Tony Bryer wrote:
On Fri, 20 Jun 2008 02:52:16 -0700 (PDT) *wrote : The timber industry has long operated in imperial sizes, and imperial terms are still in widespread use today. However legislation has outlawed the sale of goods in inches and feet, so timber is marked as the nearest metric size to the standard imperial sizes. Nothing to do with law: having to label stuff in metric units is relatively recent (? last 10 years) whilst I am fairly certain that plasterboard and chipboard went to 2400mm from 8' around the time I started doing serious building projects 30 years ago, likewise the metric dimensioning of timber. Also note that a 2.4m length of timber is 2.4m, not an 8' (2438mm) with a metric label. I think what was written has been misunderstood, I'll try to clarify it. Thanks NT |
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#23
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Timber basics article
On Fri, 20 Jun 2008 02:52:16 -0700 (PDT) wrote :
The timber industry has long operated in imperial sizes, and imperial terms are still in widespread use today. However legislation has outlawed the sale of goods in inches and feet, so timber is marked as the nearest metric size to the standard imperial sizes. Nothing to do with law: having to label stuff in metric units is relatively recent (? last 10 years) whilst I am fairly certain that plasterboard and chipboard went to 2400mm from 8' around the time I started doing serious building projects 30 years ago, likewise the metric dimensioning of timber. Also note that a 2.4m length of timber is 2.4m, not an 8' (2438mm) with a metric label. -- Tony Bryer SDA UK 'Software to build on' http://www.sda.co.uk |
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#24
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Timber basics article
wrote:
Most timber is bought in imperial sizes, with for example 2x4 meaning 2"x4", however sellers must describe it in metric and an increasing amount of timber is bought as metric sizes. Still wants to be 4x2 to follow UK convention. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
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#25
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Timber basics article
As a scholarly epistle this fall far short: you make many
generalisations that are not always the case. e.g knotty timber is sometimes preferred in joinery for aesthetic reasons, to name but one. However as a rough guide to someone who knows nowt about timber, its better than nothing by a fairly large amount. Rather than go into horrendous detail I would say simply prefix the section with a warning that it IS 'generalised' and further information etc etc.. is available in more detail from specialised sites. In particular issues to do with warping and wood movement ignore the fact that *all* wood moves under humidity changes, and its the actual structure of it and the way its cut that determines how it moves - warps, bows cups and so on. And unless you use something like structural steel to constrain it its likeley to be stronger than anything you can throw at it when it wants to move. i.e when using wood in a structure it WILL move. Forever. Unless you are not using it as the primary structure when it gets bolted or glued to something more massive. e.g veneering onto stable substrate. The only way to get wood to adopt new shape permanentely is via steaming and/or ammonia treatment. Beyind noraml D--Y usage. Ergo I would not tell people how to TRY and strighten wood. If it aint straight cut it into bits that are, or throw it away, or use it where it really doesn't matter. |
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#26
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Timber basics article
On Jun 20, 10:39*pm, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
As a scholarly epistle this fall far short: you make many generalisations that are not always the case. e.g knotty timber is sometimes preferred in joinery for aesthetic reasons, to name but one. However as a rough guide to someone who knows nowt about timber, its better than nothing by a fairly large *amount. Rather than go into horrendous detail I would say simply prefix the section with a warning that it IS 'generalised' and further information etc etc.. is available in more detail from specialised sites. In particular issues to do with warping and wood movement ignore the fact that *all* wood moves under humidity changes, and its the actual structure of it and the way its cut that determines how it moves - warps, bows cups and so on. And unless you use something like structural steel to constrain it its likeley to be stronger than anything you can throw at it when it wants to move. i.e when using wood in a structure it WILL move. Forever. Unless you are not using it as the primary structure when it gets bolted or glued to something more massive. e.g veneering onto *stable substrate. The only way to get wood to adopt *new shape permanentely is via steaming and/or ammonia treatment. Beyind noraml D--Y usage. Ergo I would not tell people how to TRY and strighten wood. If it aint straight cut it into bits that are, or throw it away, or use it where it really doesn't matter. OK. I was thinking more about problem movement than all movement. I think that level of detail would be good for a timber article rather than timber basics. Maybe that'll come next. NT |
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#27
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Timber basics article
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#28
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Timber basics article
On Jun 20, 10:52*am, wrote:
Good article but: When timber is sold in metric, the stated size is the size you get. I would say: When timber is sold as 'finished size' the stated size is what you get' 'Some large timber yards have a thicknesser for planing timber to a required size' 'With small mouldings and 'stripwood' the stated size is usually what you get.' cheers, Pete. |
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#29
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Timber basics article
On Jun 20, 10:52*am, wrote:
==Buying Wood== Ordering wood to be delivered means you don't pick the timber. This is ok for [[First fix & second fix|1st fix]], but with work where the wood needs to be straight it can be a problem, timber yards are known for sometimes using new customers to clear junk. I would just say: 'Where all timber needs to be absolutely straight, most reputable timber yards will allow you to hand pick wood for later delivery' and follow with: ==Problem Wood== Bent stock is a regular problem. 'Bent stock is rarely found at reputable timber yards, but can be more common at discount DIY retailers.' BTW where do you buy your wood meow?  cheers, Pete. |
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#30
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Timber basics article
On Jun 20, 10:52*am, wrote:
Couple more points: ===Whitewood=== Whitewood is spruce timber intended for [[First fix & second fix|first fix]] use, ie domestic woodwork that will not be seen when the project is complete. It may have some splits & stains and some warp. [[Special:Allpages|DIY]] sheds sell a lot of whitewood. The quality of whitewood on sale has improved over the years, and a percentage is good enough for [[First fix & second fix|second fix]]. Spruce doesn't take dyes well, and preservatives have limited penetration. Whitewood is usually spruce. Whitewood is generally characterised by having a larger number of larger knots, and the end grain shows growth rings that are wider (Wider growth rings indicate a faster growing timber). ===Redwood=== Redwood is a grade of wood intended for [[First fix & second fix| second fix]] use, ie domestic woodwork that will be seen when the project is complete. Its mostly free from splits & stains, and generally has much less warp than whitewood, though warp is still an issue. Redwood is generally spruce, fir or pine. Redwood is usually pine. Redwood is characterised by a smaller number of smaller knots, and the end grain shows growth rings that are narrower. (Narrower growth rings indicating a slow growing timber). BTW some pictures in the DIY wiki may help illustrate different types of timber. cheers, Pete. |
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#31
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Timber basics article
Redwood is usually pine. There are over 100 species of pine, most of them commercially available as timber. |
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#32
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Timber basics article
In message , The Natural
Philosopher writes wrote: On Jun 20, 10:39 pm, The Natural Philosopher wrote: As a scholarly epistle this fall far short: you make many generalisations that are not always the case. e.g knotty timber is sometimes preferred in joinery for aesthetic reasons, to name but one. However as a rough guide to someone who knows nowt about timber, its better than nothing by a fairly large amount. Rather than go into horrendous detail I would say simply prefix the section with a warning that it IS 'generalised' and further information etc etc.. is available in more detail from specialised sites. In particular issues to do with warping and wood movement ignore the fact that *all* wood moves under humidity changes, and its the actual structure of it and the way its cut that determines how it moves - warps, bows cups and so on. And unless you use something like structural steel to constrain it its likeley to be stronger than anything you can throw at it when it wants to move. i.e when using wood in a structure it WILL move. Forever. Unless you are not using it as the primary structure when it gets bolted or glued to something more massive. e.g veneering onto stable substrate. The only way to get wood to adopt new shape permanentely is via steaming and/or ammonia treatment. Beyind noraml D--Y usage. Ergo I would not tell people how to TRY and strighten wood. If it aint straight cut it into bits that are, or throw it away, or use it where it really doesn't matter. OK. I was thinking more about problem movement than all movement. I think that level of detail would be good for a timber article rather than timber basics. Maybe that'll come next. Yep. I thnik that as a basic D-I-Y intro to lumber the article was pretty good, its the danger of stating as facts things which are more complicated than they appear and not in every instance true, that is the constant bugbear of anyone trying to distil a complex subject into a simple guide for the fairly ignorant. Its a bit like "I before E, except after C" .. which has so maney execptions, but is still useful, so you add "as long as the word, sounds like the sea.." Which is better, because rein, deity. reification and the like are now correctly identified... But then you get 'ceiling' and 'seize' The NP going on about spelling rules ? Now I've seen everything ... -- geoff |
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#33
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Timber basics article
geoff wrote:
In message , The Natural Philosopher writes wrote: On Jun 20, 10:39 pm, The Natural Philosopher wrote: As a scholarly epistle this fall far short: you make many generalisations that are not always the case. e.g knotty timber is sometimes preferred in joinery for aesthetic reasons, to name but one. However as a rough guide to someone who knows nowt about timber, its better than nothing by a fairly large amount. Rather than go into horrendous detail I would say simply prefix the section with a warning that it IS 'generalised' and further information etc etc.. is available in more detail from specialised sites. In particular issues to do with warping and wood movement ignore the fact that *all* wood moves under humidity changes, and its the actual structure of it and the way its cut that determines how it moves - warps, bows cups and so on. And unless you use something like structural steel to constrain it its likeley to be stronger than anything you can throw at it when it wants to move. i.e when using wood in a structure it WILL move. Forever. Unless you are not using it as the primary structure when it gets bolted or glued to something more massive. e.g veneering onto stable substrate. The only way to get wood to adopt new shape permanentely is via steaming and/or ammonia treatment. Beyind noraml D--Y usage. Ergo I would not tell people how to TRY and strighten wood. If it aint straight cut it into bits that are, or throw it away, or use it where it really doesn't matter. OK. I was thinking more about problem movement than all movement. I think that level of detail would be good for a timber article rather than timber basics. Maybe that'll come next. Yep. I thnik that as a basic D-I-Y intro to lumber the article was pretty good, its the danger of stating as facts things which are more complicated than they appear and not in every instance true, that is the constant bugbear of anyone trying to distil a complex subject into a simple guide for the fairly ignorant. Its a bit like "I before E, except after C" .. which has so maney execptions, but is still useful, so you add "as long as the word, sounds like the sea.." Which is better, because rein, deity. reification and the like are now correctly identified... But then you get 'ceiling' and 'seize' The NP going on about spelling rules ? Now I've seen everything ... I thnik (stet) he knows how to spell - but not how to get his fingers to type what they should. Just like me - except I do try to go back over and correct what I notice. -- Rod Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious onset. Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed. www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org |
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#34
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Timber basics article
Rod wrote:
geoff wrote: In message , The Natural Philosopher writes wrote: On Jun 20, 10:39 pm, The Natural Philosopher wrote: As a scholarly epistle this fall far short: you make many generalisations that are not always the case. e.g knotty timber is sometimes preferred in joinery for aesthetic reasons, to name but one. However as a rough guide to someone who knows nowt about timber, its better than nothing by a fairly large amount. Rather than go into horrendous detail I would say simply prefix the section with a warning that it IS 'generalised' and further information etc etc.. is available in more detail from specialised sites. In particular issues to do with warping and wood movement ignore the fact that *all* wood moves under humidity changes, and its the actual structure of it and the way its cut that determines how it moves - warps, bows cups and so on. And unless you use something like structural steel to constrain it its likeley to be stronger than anything you can throw at it when it wants to move. i.e when using wood in a structure it WILL move. Forever. Unless you are not using it as the primary structure when it gets bolted or glued to something more massive. e.g veneering onto stable substrate. The only way to get wood to adopt new shape permanentely is via steaming and/or ammonia treatment. Beyind noraml D--Y usage. Ergo I would not tell people how to TRY and strighten wood. If it aint straight cut it into bits that are, or throw it away, or use it where it really doesn't matter. OK. I was thinking more about problem movement than all movement. I think that level of detail would be good for a timber article rather than timber basics. Maybe that'll come next. Yep. I thnik that as a basic D-I-Y intro to lumber the article was pretty good, its the danger of stating as facts things which are more complicated than they appear and not in every instance true, that is the constant bugbear of anyone trying to distil a complex subject into a simple guide for the fairly ignorant. Its a bit like "I before E, except after C" .. which has so maney execptions, but is still useful, so you add "as long as the word, sounds like the sea.." Which is better, because rein, deity. reification and the like are now correctly identified... But then you get 'ceiling' and 'seize' The NP going on about spelling rules ? Now I've seen everything ... I thnik (stet) he knows how to spell - but not how to get his fingers to type what they should. Just like me - except I do try to go back over and correct what I notice. I believe there's a new fangled invention called a spell checker |
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#35
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Timber basics article
On Mon, 23 Jun 2008 08:03:18 +0100, stuart noble wrote:
I believe there's a new fangled invention called a spell checker Eye halve a spelling chequer It came with my pea sea It plainly marques four my revue Miss steaks eye kin knot sea Eye strike a key and type a word And weight four it two say Weather eye am wrong oar write It shows me strait a weigh As soon as a mist ache is maid It nose bee four two long And eye can put the error rite Its rare lea ever wrong Eye have run this poem threw it am shore your pleased two no Its letter perfect awl the weigh My chequer tolled me sew. -- Cheers Dave. |
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#36
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Timber basics article
Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jun 2008 08:03:18 +0100, stuart noble wrote: I believe there's a new fangled invention called a spell checker Eye halve a spelling chequer It came with my pea sea It plainly marques four my revue Miss steaks eye kin knot sea Eye strike a key and type a word And weight four it two say Weather eye am wrong oar write It shows me strait a weigh As soon as a mist ache is maid It nose bee four two long And eye can put the error rite Its rare lea ever wrong Eye have run this poem threw it am shore your pleased two no Its letter perfect awl the weigh My chequer tolled me sew. Best post of the day. FWIW my spelling is around 99.8% good. My typing is around one missed key in six. Not helped byfag ash in the keyboards. Sometimes I can't be bothered to correct it. |
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#37
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Timber basics article
On Jun 15, 9:12*pm, wrote:
Hi Bit of feedback would be good before this timber basics wiki article goes live, since it covers patches I dont know a lot about.... here Thanks to everyone for pitching in. Here it is http://www.wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index....sics&rcid=9340 The points made that weren't included I hope to include at some poin in a more in depth article. cheers, NT |
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