Hi,

I'm considering building a timber bike box at the front of my house,
constructed as a kind of small lean-to slightly taller than handlebar
height. I would build a frame out of tanalised CLS and clad it with
either sheets of OSB or, if I can find a suitable source, the kind of
overlapped boards used on cheap sheds. The whole thing then liberally
coated with something water-repellent and nicely toxic. Roof could be
felt over OSB, or alternatively I remember seeing some sheets of
corrugated tar-like material in B&Q which might last longer.

What I'm unsure of is how to seal the edge of the roof to the brick wall
of the house. I guess the pukka way is to rake out some of the mortar
and install lead flashing, but I don't want to do anything that
disruptive to the fabric of the main building. Another approach (at
least in the case of a felt roof) is just to fill the gap with some sort
of adhesive sealant, but I wouldn't be all that confident that it would
stay sealed to both sides. Any other ideas?

I suppose at the end of the day total water-tightness isn't that
important (I'm going to be storing bikes in it, not a collection of
priceless Van Goghs) but it would be nice to keep things dry-ish in there.

Pete

Pete Verdon wrote:
Hi,

I'm considering building a timber bike box at the front of my house,
constructed as a kind of small lean-to slightly taller than handlebar
height. I would build a frame out of tanalised CLS and clad it with
either sheets of OSB or, if I can find a suitable source, the kind of
overlapped boards used on cheap sheds. The whole thing then liberally
coated with something water-repellent and nicely toxic. Roof could be
felt over OSB, or alternatively I remember seeing some sheets of
corrugated tar-like material in B&Q which might last longer.

What I'm unsure of is how to seal the edge of the roof to the brick wall
of the house. I guess the pukka way is to rake out some of the mortar
and install lead flashing, but I don't want to do anything that
disruptive to the fabric of the main building. Another approach (at
least in the case of a felt roof) is just to fill the gap with some sort
of adhesive sealant, but I wouldn't be all that confident that it would
stay sealed to both sides. Any other ideas?

I suppose at the end of the day total water-tightness isn't that
important (I'm going to be storing bikes in it, not a collection of
priceless Van Goghs) but it would be nice to keep things dry-ish in there.

Pete
You have stated the proper way to do it and that the bodge method won't
work so what more do you want to know?

Bob

"Pete Verdon" d wrote in
message

I suppose at the end of the day total water-tightness isn't that
important (I'm going to be storing bikes in it, not a collection of
priceless Van Goghs) but it would be nice to keep things dry-ish in there.

Pete

A batten screwed to the wall is the only solid way.

On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 21:39:24 +0100, Pete Verdon wrote:

Hi,

I'm considering building a timber bike box at the front of my house,
constructed as a kind of small lean-to slightly taller than handlebar
height. I would build a frame out of tanalised CLS and clad it with
either sheets of OSB or, if I can find a suitable source, the kind of
overlapped boards used on cheap sheds. The whole thing then liberally
coated with something water-repellent and nicely toxic. Roof could be
felt over OSB, or alternatively I remember seeing some sheets of
corrugated tar-like material in B&Q which might last longer.

What I'm unsure of is how to seal the edge of the roof to the brick wall
of the house. I guess the pukka way is to rake out some of the mortar
and install lead flashing, but I don't want to do anything that
disruptive to the fabric of the main building. Another approach (at
least in the case of a felt roof) is just to fill the gap with some sort
of adhesive sealant, but I wouldn't be all that confident that it would
stay sealed to both sides. Any other ideas?

I suppose at the end of the day total water-tightness isn't that
important (I'm going to be storing bikes in it, not a collection of
priceless Van Goghs) but it would be nice to keep things dry-ish in there.

Pete

==================================
There's no real reason why it should be attached to the wall at all;in
fact you might find it more useful to be able to move it about for general
maintenance and cleaning. I have had such a shed concealed by a low hedge
for about 7 years to house my trike and periodically I move it to clear
any wind-blown leaves and rubbish.

Mine is about a metre tall at the front, made from standard shiplap with a
felt roof. Security is achieved by an angle-iron bar bolted to the base to
which the trike is attached by a long cable bike lock. You could also fit
an alarm but I've never needed one. I pay a small extra premium on my
household insurance for the trike, which is worth about £500-00.

Cic.
--
===================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
===================================

Pete Verdon wrote:
Hi,

I'm considering building a timber bike box at the front of my house,
constructed as a kind of small lean-to slightly taller than handlebar
height. I would build a frame out of tanalised CLS and clad it with
either sheets of OSB or, if I can find a suitable source, the kind of
overlapped boards used on cheap sheds. The whole thing then liberally
coated with something water-repellent and nicely toxic. Roof could be
felt over OSB, or alternatively I remember seeing some sheets of
corrugated tar-like material in B&Q which might last longer.

What I'm unsure of is how to seal the edge of the roof to the brick
wall of the house. I guess the pukka way is to rake out some of the
mortar and install lead flashing, but I don't want to do anything that
disruptive to the fabric of the main building. Another approach (at
least in the case of a felt roof) is just to fill the gap with some
sort of adhesive sealant, but I wouldn't be all that confident that
it would stay sealed to both sides. Any other ideas?

I suppose at the end of the day total water-tightness isn't that
important (I'm going to be storing bikes in it, not a collection of
priceless Van Goghs) but it would be nice to keep things dry-ish in
there.
Pete

Flashband!

Tanner-'op wrote:

Pete Verdon wrote:

Hi,

I'm considering building a timber bike box at the front of my house,
constructed as a kind of small lean-to slightly taller than handlebar
height. I would build a frame out of tanalised CLS and clad it with
either sheets of OSB or, if I can find a suitable source, the kind of
overlapped boards used on cheap sheds. The whole thing then liberally
coated with something water-repellent and nicely toxic. Roof could be
felt over OSB, or alternatively I remember seeing some sheets of
corrugated tar-like material in B&Q which might last longer.

What I'm unsure of is how to seal the edge of the roof to the brick
wall of the house. I guess the pukka way is to rake out some of the
mortar and install lead flashing, but I don't want to do anything that
disruptive to the fabric of the main building. Another approach (at
least in the case of a felt roof) is just to fill the gap with some
sort of adhesive sealant, but I wouldn't be all that confident that
it would stay sealed to both sides. Any other ideas?

I suppose at the end of the day total water-tightness isn't that
important (I'm going to be storing bikes in it, not a collection of
priceless Van Goghs) but it would be nice to keep things dry-ish in
there.
Pete


Flashband!


Seconded - excellent when fitted using the primer.

Malcolm

Bob Minchin wrote:

You have stated the proper way to do it and that the bodge method won't
work so what more do you want to know?

Something in between?

Pete

George wrote:

A batten screwed to the wall is the only solid way.

There will be a batten screwed to the wall as part of the structure, but
I wouldn't expect that to provide any waterproofing against rain running
down the wall.

Pete

Cicero wrote:

There's no real reason why it should be attached to the wall at all;in
fact you might find it more useful to be able to move it about for general
maintenance and cleaning.

Possibly. Thing is, I'm working in quite a tight space if I want to
still be able to park a car in front of the house once the thing's in.
To do that, I'll be making use of a dogleg that exists in the wall - the
box will be basically L-shaped with most of it narrower than a pair of
handlebars (or at least not wide enough to fit them in comfortably).
Where the wall goes backwards will provide enough extra depth for the
front end. It seems to me that the best way to build to this irregular
shape is to use the wall directly. This will also allow me to securely
bolt a strongpoint into the wall for a bike lock - no point screwing it
to timber or to the loose paviours of the drive. Finally, having a small
gap between box and wall just seems like a place to trap leaves and
litter, both of which there is no shortage of blowing up the street.

Pete

Malcolm wrote:
Tanner-'op wrote:

Flashband!

Seconded - excellent when fitted using the primer.

OK, sounds good. Is is likely to be obtainable in B&Q, do you think? I
may well get the timber for this job from my local merchant, but
probably won't bother to traipse around for the other bits when I have a
shed just up the road.

Also, if I do use the corrugated roofing rather than felt (haven't
decided as yet) the application would look rather like the one he
http://www.alumanation.com/Products/fbdiag1o.gif . The
manufacturer/distributor seems to be saying that Flashband is OK for
that, but it seems to me that it would inevitably end up wrinkled and
folded. What do you reckon?

Pete