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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Surestop
Anyone fitted one of these? I assume its straightforward?
Do they work OK? -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
#2
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Surestop
In message , The Medway
Handyman wrote Anyone fitted one of these? I assume its straightforward? Do they work OK? I've fitted a Surestop remote - easy installation as the unit comes with push fittings. As the unit is plastic ensure that you are not isolating the any earthing/bonding from the ongoing pipes. I just bonded the input and output copper pipe with standard earth bonding pipe clamps and wire. I've one small criticism of the design. These units appear to need a pressure difference between input and output to switch the value. A small leak in the output side doesn't necessarily create enough pressure difference. If you are trying to shut off a plumbing fault , such as a small leak, just hitting the switch on the unit isn't enough and the unit will still allow water through. If you then turn on a tap the flow is enough to close the valve and you will hear a satisfying 'thunk' sound from the unit as it fully shuts off. -- Alan news2006 {at} amac {dot} f2s {dot} com |
#3
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Surestop
Alan wrote:
In message , The Medway Handyman wrote Anyone fitted one of these? I assume its straightforward? Do they work OK? I've fitted a Surestop remote - easy installation as the unit comes with push fittings. Yeah, me too - much better than using the semi-seized brass stopcock hidden under a radiator. |
#4
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Surestop
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Anyone fitted one of these? I assume its straightforward? Do they work OK? You don't know? Take the free installer course Dave and that should tell you whether it's straighforward or not - I would have thought that the logical step for you to take to gain more experience? http://www.surestop.co.uk/trade-approved-installer.asp And you might even make a profit out of it for the handyman's business! Tanner-'op |
#5
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Surestop
Tanner-'op wrote: The Medway Handyman wrote: Anyone fitted one of these? I assume its straightforward? Do they work OK? You don't know? Take the free installer course Dave and that should tell you whether it's straighforward or not - I would have thought that the logical step for you to take to gain more experience? http://www.surestop.co.uk/trade-approved-installer.asp And you might even make a profit out of it for the handyman's business! Oh do f*ck off you stupid troll. -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
#6
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Surestop
The Medway Handyman coughed up some electrons that declared:
Anyone fitted one of these? I assume its straightforward? Do they work OK? Hi Dave, Looks easy enough: http://www.surestop.co.uk/trade-installation-video.asp |
#7
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Surestop
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Anyone fitted one of these? I assume its straightforward? Do they work OK? Yes. If I'm doing a new kitchen (Ok, I've only done one in the last year!), then I'll fit one. **** easy to fit. A property developer recommended them to me, he fits them on all of his houses, and hasnt had a problem with them, though there is always that doubt - 'will it start leaking etc'. I dont think the risk is any greater than with a new stop cock, so have no hesitation in fitting them. Screwfix did have a few discounted - I think it is end of line for them, as I couldnt see them in the new catalogue: http://www.screwfix.com/cats/101651/Plumbing/Sure-Stop-Water-Switch Alan. -- To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'. |
#8
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Surestop
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Anyone fitted one of these? I assume its straightforward? Do they work OK? Yes on copper pipe. Yes. Yes. But remember they need a certain pressure to function properly. I originally wanted it as a remote switch to turn off an outside supply fed from a tank. The pressure wasn't sufficient (about 4ft head). It's now in use on a mains supply to a dishwasher and works perfectly. I'd fit one on the main incoming but it's all iron pipe stuff and difficult of access. Edgar |
#9
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Surestop
Alan wrote:
In message , The Medway Handyman wrote Anyone fitted one of these? I assume its straightforward? Do they work OK? I've fitted a Surestop remote - easy installation as the unit comes with push fittings. As the unit is plastic ensure that you are not isolating the any earthing/bonding from the ongoing pipes. I just bonded the input and output copper pipe with standard earth bonding pipe clamps and wire. I've one small criticism of the design. These units appear to need a pressure difference between input and output to switch the value. A small leak in the output side doesn't necessarily create enough pressure difference. If you are trying to shut off a plumbing fault , such as a small leak, just hitting the switch on the unit isn't enough and the unit will still allow water through. If you then turn on a tap the flow is enough to close the valve and you will hear a satisfying 'thunk' sound from the unit as it fully shuts off. It does need some upstream pressure to make it close firmly, but that's the price you have to pay for the remote one-finger actuation. "It isn't a bug, it's a feature." It also means you can't test the shutoff by barely cracking open the main stopcock - it will very probably leak. Open the stopcock more, and the leak stops. -- Ian White |
#10
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Surestop
On May 29, 10:47*pm, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote: Anyone fitted one of these? *I assume its straightforward? Do they work OK? -- Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk I'd fit a gate valve (£2) before it as well, space permitting. cheers, Pete. |
#11
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Surestop
On Fri, 30 May 2008 02:01:45 -0700 (PDT), Pete C wrote:
I'd fit a gate valve (£2) before it as well, space permitting. Hum, gate valves are notorious for not shutting off properly if they haven't been "exercised" regularly, like fully opened, fully closed, fully opened then closed a little. Regularly meaning at least every 12 months. If you want reliable isolation a full bore ball valve would be better bet. |
#12
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Surestop
In article
, Pete C wrote: I'd fit a gate valve (£2) before it as well, space permitting. I hate gate valves in this hard water area. By the time you need them to work they no longer do. I've replaced all of mine with full bore valves. Hope they work when needed. ;-) -- *42.7% of statistics are made up. Sorry, that should read 47.2% * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#13
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Surestop
"Tim S" wrote in message ... The Medway Handyman coughed up some electrons that declared: Anyone fitted one of these? I assume its straightforward? Do they work OK? Hi Dave, Looks easy enough: http://www.surestop.co.uk/trade-installation-video.asp Its easy if you have enough play and a *working* stop cock. Remember it will leak until you connect the small pipes to the switch. |
#14
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Surestop
"Pete C" wrote in message ... On May 29, 10:47 pm, "The Medway Handyman" wrote: Anyone fitted one of these? I assume its straightforward? Do they work OK? -- Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk I'd fit a gate valve (£2) before it as well, space permitting. I would fit it just after the stop cock like it says myself. Then if it fails there is also the stop cock. They are intended for convenience really. If you are worried about leaks an automatic stop is what is required. cheers, Pete. |
#15
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Surestop
On May 30, 12:26*pm, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote: On Fri, 30 May 2008 02:01:45 -0700 (PDT), Pete C wrote: I'd fit a gate valve (£2) before it as well, space permitting. Hum, gate valves are notorious for not shutting off properly if they haven't been "exercised" regularly, like fully opened, fully closed, fully opened then closed a little. Regularly meaning at least every 12 months. I don't exercise mine ;-) I do open it until it *just* starts to bind, and close it while there's some flow through it. If you want reliable isolation a full bore ball valve would be better bet. True. cheers, Pete. |
#16
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Surestop
Dave Liquorice wrote in message ll.net... On Fri, 30 May 2008 02:01:45 -0700 (PDT), Pete C wrote: I'd fit a gate valve (£2) before it as well, space permitting. Hum, gate valves are notorious for not shutting off properly if they haven't been "exercised" regularly, like fully opened, fully closed, fully opened then closed a little. Regularly meaning at least every 12 months. If you want reliable isolation a full bore ball valve would be better bet. But make sure it's a good quality one and its fully open when in normal use, ive had to replace three of these were the ball has corroded and seized then spindle has snapped when tried to turn off. - |
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