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AJ AJ is offline
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Default Attaching Plaster Board to err Plaster Board

Hi All

I need to cover a small bathroom wall with some plaster or aqua board.
I'm not 100% sure what the existing wall is made of though, some of it
looks like plaster board and other areas have what looks like exposed
straw!

The tiler that put the tiles up that I have just removed covered the
original wall with some PB. When I removed the tiles it knackered the
PB uunderneath hence the need to redo what was done before. The
original wall is in a bad state as I mentioned above and it has what
looks like straw exposed, it's therefore not a good sound surface for
tiles at all.

I was thinking of securing the new board to the wall using the Dot and
Dab method with some dry lining adhesive. is this a good way to go?
also should I PVA the wall before fixing the new boards. Do I have to
worry about the board joins considering its going to be tiled over?

Alternatively should I just use PB screws and be done with that? lot
quicker and cleaner.

Thoughts, advice?

Cheers
AJ
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Default Attaching Plaster Board to err Plaster Board

"AJ" wrote in message
...
Hi All

I need to cover a small bathroom wall with some plaster or aqua board.
I'm not 100% sure what the existing wall is made of though, some of it
looks like plaster board and other areas have what looks like exposed
straw!

The tiler that put the tiles up that I have just removed covered the
original wall with some PB. When I removed the tiles it knackered the
PB uunderneath hence the need to redo what was done before. The
original wall is in a bad state as I mentioned above and it has what
looks like straw exposed, it's therefore not a good sound surface for
tiles at all.

I was thinking of securing the new board to the wall using the Dot and
Dab method with some dry lining adhesive. is this a good way to go?
also should I PVA the wall before fixing the new boards. Do I have to
worry about the board joins considering its going to be tiled over?

Alternatively should I just use PB screws and be done with that? lot
quicker and cleaner.


If the wall is as you say, PB screws won't work either. Personally (but not
having seen the wall in question) I would prefer to skim the wall with
plaster. You don't need a mirror surface to tile onto, and it would fill the
irregularities. I am just finishing my bathroom and have floor to ceiling
tiles that replace old tiles that took the wall with them in chunks and this
is what I did (reasonably successfully). Alternatively use a lot of dot and
dab so it's as solid as possible. Don't grout where this wall meets another
(if it does) grout the flat bits and mastic the join between walls or you
will get cracks in the join.


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)


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AJ AJ is offline
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Posts: 19
Default Attaching Plaster Board to err Plaster Board

On 27 May, 08:07, "Bob Mannix" wrote:
"AJ" wrote in message

...





Hi All


I need to cover a small bathroom wall with some plaster or aqua board.
I'm not 100% sure what the existing wall is made of though, some of it
looks like plaster board and other areas have what looks like exposed
straw!


The tiler that put the tiles up that I have just removed covered the
original wall with some PB. When I removed the tiles it knackered the
PB uunderneath hence the need to redo what was done before. The
original wall is in a bad state as I mentioned above and it has what
looks like straw exposed, it's therefore not a good sound surface for
tiles at all.


I was thinking of securing the new board to the wall using the Dot and
Dab method with some dry lining adhesive. is this a good way to go?
also should I PVA the wall before fixing the new boards. Do I have to
worry about the board joins considering its going to be tiled over?


Alternatively should I just use PB screws and be done with that? lot
quicker and cleaner.


If the wall is as you say, PB screws won't work either. Personally (but not
having seen the wall in question) I would prefer to skim the wall with
plaster. You don't need a mirror surface to tile onto, and it would fill the
irregularities. I am just finishing my bathroom and have floor to ceiling
tiles that replace old tiles that took the wall with them in chunks and this
is what I did (reasonably successfully). Alternatively use a lot of dot and
dab so it's as solid as possible. Don't grout where this wall meets another
(if it does) grout the flat bits and mastic the join between walls or you
will get cracks in the join.

--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Hi Bob

Regarding the PB screws I was thinking of just using large screws that
would screw through the new and old PB and into the Studs that would
be ok would it not?

So if I do dot and dab you're saying to fill the joints between the
plaster board with tiling grout?

Cheers

AJ
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Default Attaching Plaster Board to err Plaster Board

"AJ" wrote in message
...
On 27 May, 08:07, "Bob Mannix" wrote:
"AJ" wrote in message

...





Hi All


I need to cover a small bathroom wall with some plaster or aqua board.
I'm not 100% sure what the existing wall is made of though, some of it
looks like plaster board and other areas have what looks like exposed
straw!


The tiler that put the tiles up that I have just removed covered the
original wall with some PB. When I removed the tiles it knackered the
PB uunderneath hence the need to redo what was done before. The
original wall is in a bad state as I mentioned above and it has what
looks like straw exposed, it's therefore not a good sound surface for
tiles at all.


I was thinking of securing the new board to the wall using the Dot and
Dab method with some dry lining adhesive. is this a good way to go?
also should I PVA the wall before fixing the new boards. Do I have to
worry about the board joins considering its going to be tiled over?


Alternatively should I just use PB screws and be done with that? lot
quicker and cleaner.


If the wall is as you say, PB screws won't work either. Personally (but
not
having seen the wall in question) I would prefer to skim the wall with
plaster. You don't need a mirror surface to tile onto, and it would fill
the
irregularities. I am just finishing my bathroom and have floor to ceiling
tiles that replace old tiles that took the wall with them in chunks and
this
is what I did (reasonably successfully). Alternatively use a lot of dot
and
dab so it's as solid as possible. Don't grout where this wall meets
another
(if it does) grout the flat bits and mastic the join between walls or you
will get cracks in the join.

--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Hi Bob

Regarding the PB screws I was thinking of just using large screws that
would screw through the new and old PB and into the Studs that would
be ok would it not?

So if I do dot and dab you're saying to fill the joints between the
plaster board with tiling grout?

Cheers


Well you didn't really say whether the studs were regular and available or
findable. Has the "straw" wall even got studs? I would say you need dot and
dab splodges bridging the joins so one board doesn't move against another.
Difficult to say without seeing the wall!


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)


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Rod Rod is offline
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Default Attaching Plaster Board to err Plaster Board

AJ wrote:
snip
Regarding the PB screws I was thinking of just using large screws that
would screw through the new and old PB and into the Studs that would
be ok would it not?

Remember that proper PB screws are phosphate treated so as not to
corrode. They are also designed to run through the PB with minimal
damage. Random "large screws" might not be suitable. Proper ones are
available in several different sizes:

http://www.screwfix.com/cats/A331389/Screws/Masonry-Drywall-Screws/Drywall-Screws
--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org


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Default Attaching Plaster Board to err Plaster Board

On May 27, 2:13 pm, AJ wrote:
On 27 May, 08:07, "Bob Mannix" wrote:



"AJ" wrote in message


...


Hi All


I need to cover a small bathroom wall with some plaster or aqua board.
I'm not 100% sure what the existing wall is made of though, some of it
looks like plaster board and other areas have what looks like exposed
straw!


The tiler that put the tiles up that I have just removed covered the
original wall with some PB. When I removed the tiles it knackered the
PB uunderneath hence the need to redo what was done before. The
original wall is in a bad state as I mentioned above and it has what
looks like straw exposed, it's therefore not a good sound surface for
tiles at all.


I was thinking of securing the new board to the wall using the Dot and
Dab method with some dry lining adhesive. is this a good way to go?
also should I PVA the wall before fixing the new boards. Do I have to
worry about the board joins considering its going to be tiled over?


Alternatively should I just use PB screws and be done with that? lot
quicker and cleaner.


If the wall is as you say, PB screws won't work either. Personally (but not
having seen the wall in question) I would prefer to skim the wall with
plaster. You don't need a mirror surface to tile onto, and it would fill the
irregularities. I am just finishing my bathroom and have floor to ceiling
tiles that replace old tiles that took the wall with them in chunks and this
is what I did (reasonably successfully). Alternatively use a lot of dot and
dab so it's as solid as possible. Don't grout where this wall meets another
(if it does) grout the flat bits and mastic the join between walls or you
will get cracks in the join.


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Hi Bob

Regarding the PB screws I was thinking of just using large screws that
would screw through the new and old PB and into the Studs that would
be ok would it not?

So if I do dot and dab you're saying to fill the joints between the
plaster board with tiling grout?



I would worry that the studs behind the "straw" wall would be whatever
tree branch the builder could find in the local woods. In other
words, they may well not be straight or evenly spaced.
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