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Default Wiring of Kitchen extractor

Just wondered if you need to put a plug on there, I mean is it
essential or can you go into a fused outlet.

It only has flex wire from it and not sure if you can use the in
switched outlets can you?
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Default Wiring of Kitchen extractor

Gogs wrote:

Just wondered if you need to put a plug on there, I mean is it
essential or can you go into a fused outlet.

It only has flex wire from it and not sure if you can use the in
switched outlets can you?


either is fine. Plug & socket is more flexible, so generally
preferred, though doubtless some will prefer the fcu.


NT
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In article
,
Gogs wrote:
Just wondered if you need to put a plug on there, I mean is it
essential or can you go into a fused outlet.


Given the position of these things it's often easier to use a lighting
circuit. But if feeding from a ring an FCU or plug is ok.

It only has flex wire from it and not sure if you can use the in
switched outlets can you?


Not sure what you mean? FCUs with flex outlet are available.

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Default Wiring of Kitchen extractor

In article et,
Dave Liquorice wrote:
IIRC an ordinary DP switched FCU doesn't comply with regs for a fan. The
earth has to switched as well, hence the special "fan isolator" switches
that you fit next to an FCU.


Be interesting to hear an explanation of the theory behind this. And do
many extractor fans have earths anyway these days?

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Dave Liquorice wrote:

IIRC an ordinary DP switched FCU doesn't comply with regs for a fan. The
earth has to switched as well,


What on earth is the reason behind that?

Pete
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Default Wiring of Kitchen extractor

On 11 May, 12:51, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:
The earth has to switched as well, hence the special "fan isolator"
switches that you fit next to an FCU. A plug and socket would of
course isolate the earth when unplugged...


Not quite, there are typically 3 types of fan.

1 - Runback timer fans with external trigger - L1 L2 + N + E, requires
3P "fan-isolator" which switches L1 L2 N (not Earth).

2 - Runback timer fans with integral switch - L + N + E, requires 2P
isolator which switches L+N.

3 - Plain fans internally switched - L + N + E, requires 2P isolator
which switches L+N.

The no. 2 is quite rare, an example is Xpelair GXC6T which is a cord
switched, thermal shuttered, with internal runback timer.
I recall a frustrated spark demanding to fit a 3P isolator, then
switch the earth, then remove the fan because it was "incorrect".

A switched socket does not require plug removal, which tends to be
frowned upon (use unswitched to force plug removal).

If you stick a cooker hood, fan or such on a lighting circuit some
notes.
1 - Similarly the socket should be unswitched so isolation requires
plug removal.
2 - Check if the device requires 3A fusing so precludes the use of 5A
lighting plug/socket & relying on the lighting circuit 6A CPD.
3 - If using 5A lighting plug/socket, the plug may not have shielded
pins (tends to upset some).
4 - Use of a T-bar earth 13A plug provides 3A fuse capability if
required & prevents other BS1363 plugged appliances using the lighting
circuit.
5 - Alternative DP SFCU where no timed trigger feed (L2) is preferred
but can be impossible to wire due to reach over cupboards.

The 3P "fan-isolators" are actually labelled L1 L2 N.

If the isolator is remote, a lock-off capability is required (padlock
thro fuseholder or switchlockout).
Watch location of extractor to hob etc, it must not be immediately
above. Cooker hoods have min height requirements.
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Default Wiring of Kitchen extractor

I have the extractor ready to be mounted at 750mm above the gas hob as
that is the size of splash back I bought due to something I read.

I have a Volex 13A Sw FCU in the vicinity and was hoping to connect
the extractor directly into that but not being an expert and with the
recent batch of tradesmen (or so called) to cross the front door I
would really like to check with some more knowlegeable people.

The FCU features Double Pole Switch for Total Isolation if that
changes anything....I also seem to recall someone saying it was on 'my
ring main' or something along that lines. It can be isolated in the
consumer unit by flicking the 32a breaker which does all the
downstairs sockets.

The hood I am using can be seen here - http://www.luxairhoods.com/pages/technical.htm

It is the Chimney LA-OC model.

What I meant when I spoke about flex, I was meaning the cable from the
hood, its not just solid copper wire like I see in my sockets and
switches for example it seems to be (strands) geared towards fitting
a plug to it, which I am guessing you can, however I was not sure if
this was a requirement to fit a plug or if it would be possible to go
straight into the FCU.

If I get someone out I dont want them making an arse of it basically
or doing a cowboy job.

I asked a family friend who lives quite a bit away so he couldnt look
at it for me and he said it should be ok but make sure the 13a fuse is
removed and replaced with a 5a one.

Again I wouldnt say he is a pro so based on what I have said what
option would be best suited?




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In article
,
Gogs wrote:
What I meant when I spoke about flex, I was meaning the cable from the
hood, its not just solid copper wire like I see in my sockets and
switches for example it seems to be (strands) geared towards fitting
a plug to it, which I am guessing you can, however I was not sure if
this was a requirement to fit a plug or if it would be possible to go
straight into the FCU.


FCUs with a cord outlet are designed to make a connection to flex.
But there's no magical difference between the type of connection used for
solid core or flex.

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Default Wiring of Kitchen extractor

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article
,
Gogs wrote:
Just wondered if you need to put a plug on there, I mean is it
essential or can you go into a fused outlet.


Given the position of these things it's often easier to use a lighting
circuit. But if feeding from a ring an FCU or plug is ok.


Note that some fans instructions may stipulate protection at 3A or
below, so additional fusing may still be required on lighting circuits.


--
Cheers,

John.

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