The brickies start tomorrow on the extension of the latest project.
Previously the (overhead) electricity supply cable came straight through
the wall into the house.

I want the supply to come into the extension and have bought a flush fit
meter box to reduce the amount of stuff internally.

I am puzzling a little on how to get from the meter to the CU. Do I
just run some meter tails from the box up the cavity into the wall as it
is being built? Do they need to run in ducting or can they just sit in
the cavity?

I am sure the brickies will advise on this but I like to be prepared.

Cheers

Martin
--
Martin Carroll

The brickies start tomorrow on the extension of the latest project.
Previously the (overhead) electricity supply cable came straight through
the wall into the house.

Contact your supplier quickly (the process can take 6-8 weeks) - you
shouldn't be enclosing supply cables or moving them yourself.

If you carry on without getting them moved, and they find out (or
worse, someone is injured as a result) your supply can be disconnected
for safety, and it's a chargeable job to then get it reinstated.

It's a little worrying that your builder has not picked up on the fact
that this is not work they can legally carry out themselves, and is an
obvious safety risk.

Colin Wilson wrote:

Contact your supplier quickly (the process can take 6-8 weeks) - you
shouldn't be enclosing supply cables or moving them yourself.

True, but the OP was talking about meter tails (plus the main earthing
conductor, presumably) on the consumer's side of the meter, was he not?

No cables should be run in wall cavities - the tails should go directly
through the wall and can then run internally as for any other wiring.
The normal safe zones concept applies, allowing a horizontal or vertical
run to the CU. A maximum tail length of 2 or 3 metres will apply
(consult supplier for details).

Two points on the suppliers side, while getting the supply moved: (i) if
the present earthing is TT it may be possible to upgrade to PME, (ii)
get an isolator fitted if possible - they'll fit this on their meter
board on the output side of the meter and the supply terminals are then
at the isolator output. With an isolator fitted you can easily
disconnect the supply should you want to do any work on your consumer unit.

--
Andy

Martin Carroll wrote:

I am sure the brickies will advise on this but I like to be prepared.

I'm sure they will, but are you really going to follow the advice of a
brickie on how to route your electrics?

David

In article , Andy Wade spambucket@m
axwell.myzen.co.uk writes
Colin Wilson wrote:

Contact your supplier quickly (the process can take 6-8 weeks) - you
shouldn't be enclosing supply cables or moving them yourself.

True, but the OP was talking about meter tails (plus the main earthing
conductor, presumably) on the consumer's side of the meter, was he not?

No cables should be run in wall cavities - the tails should go directly
through the wall and can then run internally as for any other wiring.
The normal safe zones concept applies, allowing a horizontal or vertical
run to the CU. A maximum tail length of 2 or 3 metres will apply
(consult supplier for details).

Two points on the suppliers side, while getting the supply moved: (i) if
the present earthing is TT it may be possible to upgrade to PME, (ii)
get an isolator fitted if possible - they'll fit this on their meter
board on the output side of the meter and the supply terminals are then
at the isolator output. With an isolator fitted you can easily
disconnect the supply should you want to do any work on your consumer unit.


Thanks for that.

I've already had the supply moved once as it was in the way of the
extension. Asked them about PME and they said supply wasn't suitable.
However they have recently replaced all the village supply so I will
broach the subject when they move it to it's permanent position.

Cheers

Martin
--
Martin Carroll

In article , Colin
Wilson o.uk writes
The brickies start tomorrow on the extension of the latest project.
Previously the (overhead) electricity supply cable came straight through
the wall into the house.

Contact your supplier quickly (the process can take 6-8 weeks) - you
shouldn't be enclosing supply cables or moving them yourself.

If you carry on without getting them moved, and they find out (or
worse, someone is injured as a result) your supply can be disconnected
for safety, and it's a chargeable job to then get it reinstated.

It's a little worrying that your builder has not picked up on the fact
that this is not work they can legally carry out themselves, and is an
obvious safety risk.

Hi Colin

I'm not talking about the supply side of the meter, just the tails from
the isolator to the consumer unit.

I'm the builder by the way!

Cheers

Martin

--
Martin Carroll

Martin Carroll presented the following explanation :
I am puzzling a little on how to get from the meter to the CU. Do I
just run some meter tails from the box up the cavity into the wall as it
is being built? Do they need to run in ducting or can they just sit in
the cavity?

You have provided no clues as to the distance between the two.

They are not permitted to run along the cavity, but they are permitted
to pass straight through it. Could you perhaps run some 2x2 plastic
trucking inside?

I am sure the brickies will advise on this but I like to be prepared.

I don't really see how they could possibly provide any useful advice.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

I'm not talking about the supply side of the meter, just the tails from
the isolator to the consumer unit.

Apologies then - I thought from your description you meant in the
incoming main, rather than the consumer side.

What length of run will the tails be ? - IIRC anything over ~6 foot
should be protected by a switched fused isolator, as it will be
classed as a submain (this is in addition to any isolator the electric
co. fit)