I know other people must have solved this problem.

How can I bend the T&E supplying my hob and oven into the cooker switch
box?!

Bearing in mind that it would be nice for it to be electrically connected
at the same time, i.e. long enough wires that I can connect, then bend into
recess behind switch housing.

I've just about given up and taped the damn shut!

--
Fishter
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In article , Fishter
writes
I know other people must have solved this problem.

How can I bend the T&E supplying my hob and oven into the cooker switch
box?!

Bearing in mind that it would be nice for it to be electrically connected
at the same time, i.e. long enough wires that I can connect, then bend into
recess behind switch housing.

I've just about given up and taped the damn shut!


I think that getting the wires the right length is the key. Trying to
fold up any extra wire is a no-no. Hold up the switch plate and work out
exactly where all the wires are going, then cut them so there is just
enough for you to get in and tighten the screws. You should only need
the switch plate 20mm (or less) away from the wall to put the wires in
and tighten the screws.

Also having the right depth of backbox helps, you get extra deep
backboxes for cooker switches.

(eventually managed mine at the 3rd attempt)

--
Tim Mitchell

I've just about given up and taped the damn shut!

I think that getting the wires the right length is the key. Trying to
fold up any extra wire is a no-no. Hold up the switch plate and work out
exactly where all the wires are going, then cut them so there is just
enough for you to get in and tighten the screws. You should only need
the switch plate 20mm (or less) away from the wall to put the wires in
and tighten the screws.

Also having the right depth of backbox helps, you get extra deep
backboxes for cooker switches.

(eventually managed mine at the 3rd attempt)

In the case of something like a cooker switch with thick cables...

o Use a deep box so there is plenty of spare space to fold
a little excess cable in, without the cable being trapped
tightly anywhere (except in the terminal!).

o Thread the cable down the channel so the live and neutral
conductors are the right way round to more easily be located
in their terminals, rather than all having to crossover in
the box.

--
Andrew Gabriel

"Fishter" wrote in message
...
I know other people must have solved this problem.

How can I bend the T&E supplying my hob and oven into the cooker switch
box?!

Bearing in mind that it would be nice for it to be electrically connected
at the same time, i.e. long enough wires that I can connect, then bend
into
recess behind switch housing.

I've just about given up and taped the damn shut!

Fishter


It might be because you've got to much inside the box and it;s not allowing
the plate to go far enough back. No matter which direction the cables enter
the box, it is best to trim the tails to just to the longest length of the
box. So, for example, the box is meant to take a two gang socket and the
tails enter from one of the short side, entry points. The tails would be
trimmed just passed the opposite short side. You shouldn't need any more
than that in the box, as it doesn't need to exit the box again.

Also, try to take as much of the outer insulation off and allow yourself to
work on just the inner conducting cores (the red and black) easier than
having them all stuck together inside the box. Once the front plate is
screwed into place, then the whole thing shouldn't need touched again for
years, so who sees it.

Remember to use green/yellow over sleeve on all of the bare earth connecting
centres, leaving none of it exposed unless it is being connected in to a
insulated fixed terminal.


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Hi Tim Mitchell
In you wrote:
How can I bend the T&E supplying my hob and oven into the cooker switch
box?!

Bearing in mind that it would be nice for it to be electrically connected
at the same time, i.e. long enough wires that I can connect, then bend into
recess behind switch housing.

I've just about given up and taped the damn shut!

I think that getting the wires the right length is the key. Trying to
fold up any extra wire is a no-no. Hold up the switch plate and work out
exactly where all the wires are going, then cut them so there is just
enough for you to get in and tighten the screws. You should only need
the switch plate 20mm (or less) away from the wall to put the wires in
and tighten the screws.

That's a great idea. Unfortunately my unit is in the back of a cupboard.
Don't ask, I didn't put it there... (and I'll kill the 'leccy who did!)

--
Fishter
unhook to mail me | http://www.fishter.org.uk/
You make me realise that happiness is a belt-fed weapon

In article , Fishter
writes
Hi Tim Mitchell
In you wrote:
How can I bend the T&E supplying my hob and oven into the cooker switch
box?!

Bearing in mind that it would be nice for it to be electrically connected
at the same time, i.e. long enough wires that I can connect, then bend into
recess behind switch housing.

I've just about given up and taped the damn shut!

I think that getting the wires the right length is the key. Trying to
fold up any extra wire is a no-no. Hold up the switch plate and work out
exactly where all the wires are going, then cut them so there is just
enough for you to get in and tighten the screws. You should only need
the switch plate 20mm (or less) away from the wall to put the wires in
and tighten the screws.

That's a great idea. Unfortunately my unit is in the back of a cupboard.
Don't ask, I didn't put it there... (and I'll kill the 'leccy who did!)

In that case, contortionism is called for. Or maybe you could send a
small child into the cupboard to do the job. You could borrow mine but
she's only 2 and might get red & black the wrong way round.
--
Tim Mitchell

Hi Andrew Gabriel
In you wrote:
o Thread the cable down the channel so the live and neutral
conductors are the right way round to more easily be located
in their terminals, rather than all having to crossover in
the box.

These are simply broken through the plaster, so shoving them back down the
channel is a no-no :-(

--
Fishter
unhook to mail me | http://www.fishter.org.uk/
I don't w*rk here. I'm a consultant.

Hi BigWallop
In you wrote:
Also, try to take as much of the outer insulation off and allow yourself to
work on just the inner conducting cores (the red and black) easier than
having them all stuck together inside the box. Once the front plate is
screwed into place, then the whole thing shouldn't need touched again for
years, so who sees it.

I'll give that a go tomorrow. I've given up for the night. The 'project'
aim was to attach the box to the wall. At the moment it's just hanging on
the cables. I had to undo the connections, then try and remake them with
the box screwed to the wall. When it wouldn't go back together and SWMBO
wanted to make dinner, I hurriedly removed from wall, and managed to squash
all back into box, although I have a suspicion that some of the cable
popped out the back as I was doing this.

Remember to use green/yellow over sleeve on all of the bare earth connecting
centres, leaving none of it exposed unless it is being connected in to a
insulated fixed terminal.

It would have been nice if the orignal fitter had used that!


--
Fishter
unhook to mail me | http://www.fishter.org.uk/
I can see your point, but I still think you're full of shìt.

What depth of socket box are you useing?

I used 47mm depth socket box no problems fitting cable into box/screw holes.
Also removing outer cable insulation to just level with rubber grommet
entering socket box should make cables easier to fit.

And use 35mm depth ones for all electrical sockets instead of the 25mm which
seem to be fitted as standard 35mm gives easier cable fitting/wiring.

Hi Tinklemagoo
In you wrote:
What depth of socket box are you useing?

I used 47mm depth socket box no problems fitting cable into box/screw holes.
Also removing outer cable insulation to just level with rubber grommet
entering socket box should make cables easier to fit.

And use 35mm depth ones for all electrical sockets instead of the 25mm which
seem to be fitted as standard 35mm gives easier cable fitting/wiring.

It looks like 47mm. I'll need to try removing all the outer insulation and
giving it another go. Added to my problems is the fact that I have to get
two conductors into one connector, one for the hob, one for the oven. Is
it possible to get switches with two terminals?

--
Fishter
unhook to mail me | http://www.fishter.org.uk/
I thought I wanted a career, turns out I just wanted paychecks

On Wed, 1 Oct 2003 17:02:37 +0100, Fishter wrote:

That's a great idea. Unfortunately my unit is in the back of a cupboard.

If it's a 'fitted kitchen' cupboard, as opposed to a built-in, it should be
possible to remove the cupboard to gain access.

--
Phil Addison
The uk.d-i-y FAQ is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/
Remove NOSPAM from address to reply

Fishter wrote:
Added to my problems is the fact that I have to get two conductors
into one connector, one for the hob, one for the oven.
Is it possible to get switches with two terminals?

And there lies the rub.
Check the ratings for your oven, you may well find it can be safely fed from
an FCU. Many ovens come fitted with a 13A plug.

--
Toby.

'One day son, all this will be finished'

Fishter wrote:
Added to my problems is the fact that I have to get two conductors
into one connector, one for the hob, one for the oven.
Is it possible to get switches with two terminals?

And there lies the rub.
Check the ratings for your oven, you may well find it can be safely fed from
an FCU. Many ovens come fitted with a 13A plug.

--
Toby.

'One day son, all this will be finished'

Fishter wrote:
Added to my problems is the fact that I have to get two conductors
into one connector, one for the hob, one for the oven.
Is it possible to get switches with two terminals?

And there lies the rub.
Check the ratings for your oven, you may well find it can be safely fed from
an FCU. Many ovens come fitted with a 13A plug.

--
Toby.

'One day son, all this will be finished'

Hi Phil Addison
In you wrote:
That's a great idea. Unfortunately my unit is in the back of a cupboard.

If it's a 'fitted kitchen' cupboard, as opposed to a built-in, it should be
possible to remove the cupboard to gain access.

Probably impossible, without removing the worktop and hob (which I'm trying
to connect).

I'll let you know how I get on tomorrow.

--
Fishter
unhook to mail me | http://www.fishter.org.uk/
If I put this hanky over your head, will you fall asleep?