OK, big universal beam, whack blocks into the web, clad with Fireline,
then clad that with timber. Has anyone managed to do this with a
result that looks like a timber beam, rather than a 1970s pub fitting,
and if so, how did you go about it? I'm not interested in paying 25
quid a foot for a hollowed-out beam.


Regards
Richard

geraldthehamster wrote:
OK, big universal beam, whack blocks into the web, clad with Fireline,
then clad that with timber. Has anyone managed to do this with a
result that looks like a timber beam, rather than a 1970s pub fitting,
and if so, how did you go about it? I'm not interested in paying 25
quid a foot for a hollowed-out beam.

I've got one I did at home which looks not bad - a short concrete beam
though. I can't remember the exact details of how I clad it - probably
used No More Nails? Looks like 6"x1" pine down the sides, then 4"x1"
along the bottom, all stained dark. IIRC I put panel pins horizontally
through into the 4x1 to prevent any gaps opening up. You can just see
the joint between the timbers, but only barely, and because it's a very
low ceiling.

Don't know what the Fireline's all about - is that a building regs thing
to protect the beam? Is that why the job's so extraordinarily expensive?

David

On Feb 20, 12:35*pm, Lobster wrote:

Don't know what the Fireline's all about - is that a building regs thing
to protect the beam? *Is that why the job's so extraordinarily expensive?

Yes.

Regards
Richard

In message
,
geraldthehamster writes
On Feb 20, 12:35*pm, Lobster wrote:

Don't know what the Fireline's all about - is that a building regs thing
to protect the beam? *Is that why the job's so extraordinarily expensive?

Yes.

I stand to be corrected but, I thought timber cladding of a suitable
thickness was acceptable as providing fire resistance.

regards

--
Tim Lamb

On Feb 20, 8:52*pm, Tim Lamb wrote:

I stand to be corrected but, I thought timbercladdingof a suitable
thickness was acceptable as providing fire resistance.

You're probably right, but I expect it'd need to be quite thick. I'd
guess at least an inch - on the basis that a friend wanted exposed
ceiling rafters in the sitting room of his build, and had to over-
specify by an inch, to allow for charring.

Using Fireline would allow you to use a thinner wooden cladding, which
might be easier to source, and less expensive.

Regards
Richard

In message
,
geraldthehamster writes
On Feb 20, 8:52*pm, Tim Lamb wrote:

I stand to be corrected but, I thought timbercladdingof a suitable
thickness was acceptable as providing fire resistance.

You're probably right, but I expect it'd need to be quite thick. I'd
guess at least an inch - on the basis that a friend wanted exposed
ceiling rafters in the sitting room of his build, and had to over-
specify by an inch, to allow for charring.

Using Fireline would allow you to use a thinner wooden cladding, which
might be easier to source, and less expensive.

OK but thinner cladding may be more prone to warping as it gets used to
your central heating.

We went down this route in disguising an RSJ holding up some exposed
beams in our re-build.

The builder used a HILTI gun to secure the cladding to the lower flange.
I suppose if visible joins were a concern, it might be necessary to
*acclimatise* the cladding before finishing off.

regards
--
Tim Lamb

On Feb 20, 12:35*pm, Lobster wrote:

Don't know what the Fireline's all about - is that a building regs thing
to protect the beam? *Is that why the job's so extraordinarily expensive?

Sorry, I meant to add - this is a steel beam, not a concrete one. The
Fireline board is a requirement to protect the steel from fire, to
prevent it buckling and bringing the house down on the firemen.

Thanks for your comments.

Regards
Richard

geraldthehamster wrote:
On Feb 20, 12:35 pm, Lobster wrote:

Don't know what the Fireline's all about - is that a building regs thing
to protect the beam? Is that why the job's so extraordinarily expensive?

Sorry, I meant to add - this is a steel beam, not a concrete one. The
Fireline board is a requirement to protect the steel from fire, to
prevent it buckling and bringing the house down on the firemen.

Thanks for your comments.

Regards
Richard

What are the dimensions? Once you get over 150mm width, the choices are
limited. If you don't want vertical joins, it might pay to look at long,
wide timber like Quebec Yellow or Obeche. Both are soft, and a bit bland
looking, but remarkably stable. Also depends what colour you're aiming
for, and how much trouble you're prepared to go to tracking down the
timber.

On Feb 20, 3:12*pm, Stuart Noble
wrote:

What are the dimensions? Once you get over 150mm width, the choices are
limited. If you don't want vertical joins, it might pay to look at long,
wide timber like Quebec Yellow or Obeche. Both are soft, and a bit bland
looking, but remarkably stable. Also depends what colour you're aiming
for, and how much trouble you're prepared to go to tracking down the
timber.

External dimensions will end up being about 3800 x 250 x 150. Colour
probably wants to be on the lighter side (pine or white oak). I have
two issues really - three if you count cost ;-) The others are the
availability of suytably-sized timber, and the method of joining it
togther at the corners, so that it doesn't look like it's joined
together at the corners.

Maybe I should buy one reclaimed beam, and an adze ...

Regards
Richard

On Wed, 20 Feb 2008 07:25:47 -0800, geraldthehamster wrote:

On Feb 20, 3:12*pm, Stuart Noble wrote:

What are the dimensions? Once you get over 150mm width, the choices are
limited. If you don't want vertical joins, it might pay to look at long,
wide timber like Quebec Yellow or Obeche. Both are soft, and a bit bland
looking, but remarkably stable. Also depends what colour you're aiming
for, and how much trouble you're prepared to go to tracking down the
timber.

External dimensions will end up being about 3800 x 250 x 150. Colour
probably wants to be on the lighter side (pine or white oak). I have two
issues really - three if you count cost ;-) The others are the
availability of suytably-sized timber, and the method of joining it
togther at the corners, so that it doesn't look like it's joined together
at the corners.

Maybe I should buy one reclaimed beam, and an adze ...

Regards
Richard

===================================
You could avoid a *corner* joint by using a piece of 2" x 2" (with
rebate to suit beam) for the actual corner and then biscuit-joint boards
to this for the sides and base.

Cic.
--
===================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
===================================

geraldthehamster wrote:
On Feb 20, 3:12 pm, Stuart Noble
wrote:

What are the dimensions? Once you get over 150mm width, the choices are
limited. If you don't want vertical joins, it might pay to look at long,
wide timber like Quebec Yellow or Obeche. Both are soft, and a bit bland
looking, but remarkably stable. Also depends what colour you're aiming
for, and how much trouble you're prepared to go to tracking down the
timber.

External dimensions will end up being about 3800 x 250 x 150. Colour
probably wants to be on the lighter side (pine or white oak). I have
two issues really - three if you count cost ;-) The others are the
availability of suytably-sized timber, and the method of joining it
togther at the corners, so that it doesn't look like it's joined
together at the corners.

Maybe I should buy one reclaimed beam, and an adze ...

Regards
Richard


Or get a reclaimed beam run through a saw?
250 x 25 rules out ordinary pine. Parana is probably available but would
be expensive (and look wrong IMO).
I'd go for a sheet material with mitred edges. Sycamore's nice. One
vertical join but....