Pls can the group advise; I want to create a new, lowered ceiling in a
bathroom. I'm capable of building a wooden "frame" (if that's the
right term) but I presume I "should" construct the ceiling (ie clad
the frame) with plasterboard - I've never used this material and have
no idea where to start to figure it out.

I hoping people can tell me "it's really easy, just follow the
instructions at [XXX helpful reference source XXX]" ... if it is in
fact difficult for a beginner, could I use wood instead (marine ply,
to be covered with lining paper)? The bathroom is about 10' x 12'.

A propos this, whether I use wood or plasterboard I'll also have some
repair work (small areas and seams where walls meet window frames etc)
to do on the walls of the bathroom. Again, I've never attempted
plastering - should I go to a shed and look for some filler-type
substance?

Very grateful for your thoughts.

John

John, if you feel you will be able to nail on the plasterboard so that
it is uniformly alligned (whether on walls or ceiling) then stop after
you've done that and pay a good professional plasterer to skim over. It
really is a very artistic skill that is acquired only with much
practice.

Regarding the cost of a plasterer you could cut it down a bit by having
the plasterer only apply a perfect skim to the ceiling and a rough skim
to the walls, provided you are up to paying for floor to ceiling tiling.
I'm able to suggest the above because I've been looking into redoing our
bathroom for the past four weeks now, getting quotes for this and that
aspect of it, etc.

Good luck,
Eddy.

wrote in message
...
Pls can the group advise; I want to create a new, lowered ceiling in a
bathroom. I'm capable of building a wooden "frame" (if that's the
right term) but I presume I "should" construct the ceiling (ie clad
the frame) with plasterboard - I've never used this material and have
no idea where to start to figure it out.

I hoping people can tell me "it's really easy, just follow the
instructions at [XXX helpful reference source XXX]" ... if it is in
fact difficult for a beginner, could I use wood instead (marine ply,
to be covered with lining paper)? The bathroom is about 10' x 12'.

A propos this, whether I use wood or plasterboard I'll also have some
repair work (small areas and seams where walls meet window frames etc)
to do on the walls of the bathroom. Again, I've never attempted
plastering - should I go to a shed and look for some filler-type
substance?

Very grateful for your thoughts.

John

The timber frame would need to be quite sturdy to resist bouncing when
knocking in the plasterboard nails. You could use screws but the plasterer
will push quite hard when he is trowelling up the plaster and it needs to be
rigid.

I would be inclined to use '4 by 2' timber with two rows of noggins. I agree
with Eddy, plastering a ceiling is not for a novice.

mark

The timber frame would need to be quite sturdy to resist bouncing when
knocking in the plasterboard nails. You could use screws but the plasterer
will push quite hard when he is trowelling up the plaster and it needs to be
rigid.

I would be inclined to use '4 by 2' timber with two rows of noggins. I agree
with Eddy, plastering a ceiling is not for a novice.

I know this is probably a really stupid question, but is the reason
that it seems to be mandatory to apply a (skim??) plaster coat to the
plaster board in order to cover/ conceal the seams? Otherwise,
couldn't I just cover the plaster board directly with lining paper and
then paint it?

John

wrote:
The timber frame would need to be quite sturdy to resist bouncing when
knocking in the plasterboard nails. You could use screws but the plasterer
will push quite hard when he is trowelling up the plaster and it needs to be
rigid.

I would be inclined to use '4 by 2' timber with two rows of noggins. I agree
with Eddy, plastering a ceiling is not for a novice.

I know this is probably a really stupid question, but is the reason
that it seems to be mandatory to apply a (skim??) plaster coat to the
plaster board in order to cover/ conceal the seams? Otherwise,
couldn't I just cover the plaster board directly with lining paper and
then paint it?

John

Yes, if you can get the edges of the boards level. With new joists that
shouldn't be too difficult.

wrote:

The timber frame would need to be quite sturdy to resist bouncing when
knocking in the plasterboard nails. You could use screws but the plasterer
will push quite hard when he is trowelling up the plaster and it needs to be
rigid.

I would be inclined to use '4 by 2' timber with two rows of noggins. I agree
with Eddy, plastering a ceiling is not for a novice.

I know this is probably a really stupid question, but is the reason
that it seems to be mandatory to apply a (skim??) plaster coat to the
plaster board in order to cover/ conceal the seams? Otherwise,
couldn't I just cover the plaster board directly with lining paper and
then paint it?

John

The basic idea of boarding is just to cover the area with pieces of
board, leaving as little gap as poss. Or you can leave 1/4" gap so the
filler squishes thru to make it stronger.

The simplest way to finish is to fill the joints and paint it all.
That makes it good, but only skimming will get it truly perfect. Since
its paper surfaced in a bathroom, I'd put a layer of matt oil based
stuff on first to keep the transient damp off the paper. That way if
mouldering occurs it wont rot the PB surface.

You could use ply, but why pay more for a worse result? Also PB is
easy to cut with knife or saw. If youre not skimming, do use a knife,
it ends up far neater.

Never use PB nails, theyre really crp. Always use PB screws. NOT wood
screws.

http://www.wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index....esistant_Paint


NT

wrote:
I know this is probably a really stupid question, but is the reason
that it seems to be mandatory to apply a (skim??) plaster coat to the
plaster board in order to cover/ conceal the seams? Otherwise,
couldn't I just cover the plaster board directly with lining paper and
then paint it?

John, don't entertain the idea. It will always look second-rate. This
is the shoddiness I am having to deal with here in more rooms than in
our bathroom: plasterboards (not always perfectly alligned either!) with
tape along or up and down the crevices between them. Three lines
result: the crevice the tape is trying to hide is generally still
visible, and the two edges of the tape itself! Even matt vinyl
emulsion, stippled on, won't hide all this bloody tape all over the
shop. Don't go there! When/If you come to sell your house people will
take one look and think "Amateur! And what else has he been up to on
the cheap?" I'm going to spend quite a bit having the bathroom
"panels" seen to. They are not even flush, and the previous owner
thought woodchip wallpaper over the lot would hide the taped seams but
you can still see the different panels easily.

Eddy.

Eddy wrote:
wrote:
I know this is probably a really stupid question, but is the reason
that it seems to be mandatory to apply a (skim??) plaster coat to the
plaster board in order to cover/ conceal the seams? Otherwise,
couldn't I just cover the plaster board directly with lining paper and
then paint it?

John, don't entertain the idea. It will always look second-rate. This
is the shoddiness I am having to deal with here in more rooms than in
our bathroom: plasterboards (not always perfectly alligned either!) with
tape along or up and down the crevices between them. Three lines
result: the crevice the tape is trying to hide is generally still
visible, and the two edges of the tape itself! Even matt vinyl
emulsion, stippled on, won't hide all this bloody tape all over the
shop. Don't go there! When/If you come to sell your house people will
take one look and think "Amateur! And what else has he been up to on
the cheap?" I'm going to spend quite a bit having the bathroom
"panels" seen to. They are not even flush, and the previous owner
thought woodchip wallpaper over the lot would hide the taped seams but
you can still see the different panels easily.

Eddy.


But the OP is putting up new joists so there's no reason for the boards
not to be level. Gaps are easy to fill but different levels can only be
overcome with skimmimng

On 5 Feb, 21:59, Eddy wrote:
wrote:
I know this is probably a really stupid question, but is the reason
that it seems to be mandatory to apply a (skim??) plaster coat to the
plaster board in order to cover/ conceal the seams? *Otherwise,
couldn't I just cover the plaster board directly with lining paper and
then paint it?

John, don't entertain the idea. *It will always look second-rate. *This
is the shoddiness I am having to deal with here in more rooms than in
our bathroom: plasterboards (not always perfectly alligned either!) with
tape along or up and down the crevices between them. *Three lines
result: the crevice the tape is trying to hide is generally still
visible, and the two edges of the tape itself! *Even matt vinyl
emulsion, stippled on, won't hide all this bloody tape all over the
shop. *Don't go there! *When/If you come to sell your house people will
take one look and think "Amateur! *And what else has he been up to on
the cheap?" * I'm going to spend quite a bit having the bathroom
"panels" seen to. *They are not even flush, and the previous owner
thought woodchip wallpaper over the lot would hide the taped seams but
you can still see the different panels easily. *

Eddy.

This method is supposed to be used with taped (or 'feather') edge
boards, where a slight thinning of the board edge allows the joint &
tape to be 'lost' in a thin skim of filler. It does work if done
properly.

On Wed, 6 Feb 2008 06:13:47 -0800 (PST), Phil
wrote:

On 5 Feb, 21:59, Eddy wrote:
wrote:
I know this is probably a really stupid question, but is the reason
that it seems to be mandatory to apply a (skim??) plaster coat to the
plaster board in order to cover/ conceal the seams? *Otherwise,
couldn't I just cover the plaster board directly with lining paper and
then paint it?

John, don't entertain the idea. *It will always look second-rate. *This
is the shoddiness I am having to deal with here in more rooms than in
our bathroom: plasterboards (not always perfectly alligned either!) with
tape along or up and down the crevices between them. *Three lines
result: the crevice the tape is trying to hide is generally still
visible, and the two edges of the tape itself! *Even matt vinyl
emulsion, stippled on, won't hide all this bloody tape all over the
shop. *Don't go there! *When/If you come to sell your house people will
take one look and think "Amateur! *And what else has he been up to on
the cheap?" * I'm going to spend quite a bit having the bathroom
"panels" seen to. *They are not even flush, and the previous owner
thought woodchip wallpaper over the lot would hide the taped seams but
you can still see the different panels easily. *

Eddy.

This method is supposed to be used with taped (or 'feather') edge
boards, where a slight thinning of the board edge allows the joint &
tape to be 'lost' in a thin skim of filler. It does work if done
properly.

That's what I did with my bathroom walls and ceiling ( which I
lowered) .tapered edge boards.Joined with fibre glass tape and
jointing filler then painted ... a bit of sanding the joints was
required but it looks good .