Anyone got an opinion of one of these ?

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/40530?...Trade-_-Image#

Got loads of thick tumbled limestone to slap on the wall.

Mike P

Mike P

On 19 Jan, 13:23, Mike P mike@askme wrote:
Anyone got an opinion of one of these ?

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/40530?...-E07W50B-_-Lig...

Got loads of thick tumbled limestone to slap on the wall.

Mike P

Mike P

Yes I have one very similar to that, it will do the job but you have
to use it backwards to stop being sprayed with water (it will spray
away from you then) also will drip water on floor unless you work over
a bath sink etc. Use wax pencils or similar for marking out, also they
are pretty heavy to lug around.

Housemartin wrote:
On 19 Jan, 13:23, Mike P mike@askme wrote:
Anyone got an opinion of one of these ?

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/40530?...-E07W50B-_-Lig...

Got loads of thick tumbled limestone to slap on the wall.

Mike P

Mike P

Yes I have one very similar to that, it will do the job but you have
to use it backwards to stop being sprayed with water (it will spray
away from you then) also will drip water on floor unless you work over
a bath sink etc. Use wax pencils or similar for marking out, also they
are pretty heavy to lug around.

Never thought of using it backwards. Mine is almost identical, and I
just accept its either water on me, or the whole room, I am easier to
clean, generally.

I've used mine on tumbled marble, No problems.

Housemartin wrote:
Use wax pencils or similar for marking out, also they
are pretty heavy to lug around.

You must have some very large wax pencils :-)

Chinagraph pencils are quite difficult to find IME. A 'Sharpie' brand fine
tip marker will do the job. Staples sell them.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

On 2008-01-19 17:52:06 +0000, "The Medway Handyman"
said:

Housemartin wrote:
Use wax pencils or similar for marking out, also they
are pretty heavy to lug around.

You must have some very large wax pencils :-)

Chinagraph pencils are quite difficult to find IME.

Specialist tile shops that also sell stone sell them.


A 'Sharpie' brand fine
tip marker will do the job. Staples sell them.

Danger Will Robinson.

Do that on any soft stone such as limestone or tumbled marble and you
will be very sorry indeed. It soaks in and spreads and will not come
out.

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2008-01-19 17:52:06 +0000, "The Medway Handyman"
said:

Housemartin wrote:
Use wax pencils or similar for marking out, also they
are pretty heavy to lug around.

You must have some very large wax pencils :-)

Chinagraph pencils are quite difficult to find IME.

Specialist tile shops that also sell stone sell them.


A 'Sharpie' brand fine
tip marker will do the job. Staples sell them.

Danger Will Robinson.

Do that on any soft stone such as limestone or tumbled marble and you
will be very sorry indeed. It soaks in and spreads and will not come out.



Indeed. Use a bit of masking tape and mark that, or use pencil.

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
.uk...
Housemartin wrote:
Use wax pencils or similar for marking out, also they
are pretty heavy to lug around.

You must have some very large wax pencils :-)

ROFLMAO


Chinagraph pencils are quite difficult to find IME.


I get mine from the local (proper) artists shop, I realise not everywhere
has one of these but this may help those that do.

Cheers
John

On Sat, 19 Jan 2008 13:23:41 +0000, Mike P mike@askme wrote:

Anyone got an opinion of one of these ?
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/40530?...Trade-_-Image#

Yes, they break. The Plasplugs ones seem to last longer.

I wear a vinyl kitchen apron when using mine, as they do spray rather.

Keep an old paintbush handy for brushing shards away. Especially with
glazed tiles, you'll shred your fingers otherwise.

Drain quickly after use and dry the blade. Otherwise they rust quickly
and are ruined.

Andy Dingley wrote:
On Sat, 19 Jan 2008 13:23:41 +0000, Mike P mike@askme wrote:

Anyone got an opinion of one of these ?
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/40530?...Trade-_-Image#

Yes, they break. The Plasplugs ones seem to last longer.


Mine didn't
I wear a vinyl kitchen apron when using mine, as they do spray rather.

Or just get used to getting wet.

Keep an old paintbush handy for brushing shards away. Especially with
glazed tiles, you'll shred your fingers otherwise.

Us ebits of tile to poke other tisels throiugh.

Drain quickly after use and dry the blade. Otherwise they rust quickly
and are ruined.

the blade is a matricx odf diamonds, and doesn't mind a little surface
rust. But drain and wash the tank, or you have a devils own job to clean
it next time you use it if the gunk sets hard.

On 23 Jan, 10:43, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

the blade is a matricx odf diamonds, and doesn't mind a little surface
rust.

The blade is a steel disk, covered with a thin layer of nickel plating
around the edge. The diamonds are deposited in, and secured by, the
nickel.

Nickel plating is somewhat porous. Water causes the underlying steel
to rust. This expands in size, blowing the nickel plating off in
spots. Rust is not as goood an abrasive for tile cutting as diamond
dust.

The same applies to diamond bench stones.

Andy Dingley wrote:
On 23 Jan, 10:43, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

the blade is a matricx odf diamonds, and doesn't mind a little surface
rust.

The blade is a steel disk, covered with a thin layer of nickel plating
around the edge. The diamonds are deposited in, and secured by, the
nickel.

Nickel plating is somewhat porous. Water causes the underlying steel
to rust. This expands in size, blowing the nickel plating off in
spots. Rust is not as goood an abrasive for tile cutting as diamond
dust.

The same applies to diamond bench stones.
Maybe. All I know is that my disk WORE OUT (after several bloody tons of
stone had been laid)..it didn't 'lose its diamonds' and I never took
especial care with it.

When I checked it against the replacment, it was 1/4" smaller all round.
It never stopped cutting, and diamonds were not pressed into the sides,
they appeared to be completely embedded in the whole last 1/4" of blade...