I have had a drained system for about 8 months (Wickes 40)
have replaced all copper and radiators
Re-wired the room stat (hopefully the right way)
Switched on, called for heat and the boiler lit up, banged and clattered,
then returned to pilot light only.
The pump went very hot, but pipes either side were cold
so either this is going the wrong way due to the stat wired wrong, or its
seized? (it was new last year)
All rads filled with water no problem before I started with the boiler.
Is the boiler in need of some form of bleed also?
any help appreciated ta
--
Vass

Are all isolating valves at boiler open? Make sure at least one rad has
vales permantnly open to cycle water.

If still no good why not try unscrewing large headed screw on pump to see
pump rotates?

"Mitch" wrote in message
...
Are all isolating valves at boiler open? Make sure at least one rad has
vales permantnly open to cycle water.

If still no good why not try unscrewing large headed screw on pump to see
pump rotates?
yes all trv's open and master rad also open
will take a look at the pump, thanks for info
--
Vass

On Oct 12, 8:15 pm, "Vass" wrote:
I have had a drained system for about 8 months (Wickes 40)
have replaced all copper and radiators
Re-wired the room stat (hopefully the right way)
Switched on, called for heat and the boiler lit up, banged and clattered,
then returned to pilot light only.
The pump went very hot, but pipes either side were cold
so either this is going the wrong way due to the stat wired wrong, or its
seized? (it was new last year)
All rads filled with water no problem before I started with the boiler.
Is the boiler in need of some form of bleed also?
any help appreciated ta
--
Vass

It sounds like the pump is running dry (hence heating up from
friction).

Try removing the cap of the pump (usually a brass screw) to release
air - ideally it should start dribbling confirming there's water in
there (tighten it back up again afterwards).

If the boiler has an automatic air vent on the top also make sure the
dust cap on that is loose.

Mathew

On Fri, 12 Oct 2007 20:15:59 +0100, Vass wrote:

I have had a drained system for about 8 months (Wickes 40)
have replaced all copper and radiators
Re-wired the room stat (hopefully the right way)
Switched on, called for heat and the boiler lit up, banged and clattered,
then returned to pilot light only.
The pump went very hot, but pipes either side were cold
so either this is going the wrong way due to the stat wired wrong, or its
seized? (it was new last year)
All rads filled with water no problem before I started with the boiler.
Is the boiler in need of some form of bleed also?
any help appreciated ta

Sounds like you were a bit to keen to get the boiler fired up.
I often start the system with the gas off to give me a chance to know
whether all (enough of) the air is out of the critical places before
puting the gas on. With experience you can hear/feel the difference
between a pump mostly full of air and doing nowt and one that is noisily
pushing bubbles around.

For a brand new pump the rear bleed plug must be opened to wet the
bearings, but helps little is removing air from the circuit.

Auto air vents are helpful but you need to be careful that they are doing
their stuff. They often work nest just after the pump has stopped.

--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html

In message , Vass
writes
I have had a drained system for about 8 months (Wickes 40)
have replaced all copper and radiators
Re-wired the room stat (hopefully the right way)
Switched on, called for heat and the boiler lit up, banged and clattered,
then returned to pilot light only.
The pump went very hot, but pipes either side were cold
so either this is going the wrong way due to the stat wired wrong, or its
seized? (it was new last year)

You can't wire it so that it goes the wrong way round - it's AC

Do you have isolating valves on the pump, are they open ?

You might have an air lock,


It might be seized, or the impeller might have broken off the ceramic
shaft, or you might have displaced some crud which has got lodged and is
stopping the impeller turning. Undo the big chrome screw if you have
one, you should see a bit of water dripping out and you should be able
to see if the shaft is rotating


All rads filled with water no problem before I started with the boiler.
Is the boiler in need of some form of bleed also?
any help appreciated ta

--
geoff

Vass wrote:
"Mitch" wrote in message
...
Are all isolating valves at boiler open? Make sure at least one rad has
vales permantnly open to cycle water.

If still no good why not try unscrewing large headed screw on pump to see
pump rotates?
yes all trv's open and master rad also open
will take a look at the pump, thanks for info

Once the pump works, turn the gas off to the boiler for a bit, and let
it run the pump. That ought to shift any air out of the boiler and into
one of the rads.


--
Cheers,

John.

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"geoff" wrote in message
...
Do you have isolating valves on the pump, are they open ?

You might have an air lock,


It might be seized, or the impeller might have broken off the ceramic
shaft, or you might have displaced some crud which has got lodged and is
stopping the impeller turning. Undo the big chrome screw if you have one,
you should see a bit of water dripping out and you should be able to see
if the shaft is rotating

Thanks to all for your input
I have removed the chrome screw from the pump, water drips out (may be from
use last year?)
inside I can see a brass slotted head, which is not turning when heat is
called and the 3 way valve moves to position
should this brass bit rotate? can I give it some assistance with a large
screwdriver?
(isolating valves each side are open)
Ta
--
Vass

"Vass" wrote in message
...

all done!
the pump turned with a little turn from a screwdriver
felt a little gritty, then it sprang into life
Whole house heating up nicely, with the new master rad taking the longest to
heat up (farthest away from boiler)

thanks to all for your input, after a week off, fitting all the new rads and
pipes, it was disheartening to have a boiler prob right at the 11th hour
Beer now (err ok in a few hours)
Cheers again
--
Vass