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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Tongue-and-Groove shed door: glue?
I am making an external door for an outhouse, from T+G with a Z-brace.
My instinct was to glue the planks to each other and to the brace with PVA (and to screw from the brace into the planks). But I spotted a warning on a pack of (slightly thinner) T&G (from Wickes) to nail rather than glue T&G planks. I presume that this is an issue about expansion/contraction as humidity changes - but wonder whether that was specifically relating to use of T&G for wall panneling. Am I safe to use glue for my door? John Geddes Derbyshire |
#2
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Tongue-and-Groove shed door: glue?
"John Geddes" wrote in message ups.com... I am making an external door for an outhouse, from T+G with a Z-brace. My instinct was to glue the planks to each other and to the brace with PVA (and to screw from the brace into the planks). But I spotted a warning on a pack of (slightly thinner) T&G (from Wickes) to nail rather than glue T&G planks. I presume that this is an issue about expansion/contraction as humidity changes - but wonder whether that was specifically relating to use of T&G for wall panneling. Am I safe to use glue for my door? John Geddes Derbyshire This T&G cladding? if so forget it as the wood will warp something cronic through each phase of summer,winter period |
#3
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Tongue-and-Groove shed door: glue?
On 27 Sep, 14:29, John Geddes wrote:
I am making an external door for an outhouse, from T+G with a Z-brace. My instinct was to glue the planks to each other and to the brace with PVA (and to screw from the brace into the planks). But I spotted a warning on a pack of (slightly thinner) T&G (from Wickes) to nail rather than glue T&G planks. I presume that this is an issue about expansion/contraction as humidity changes - but wonder whether that was specifically relating to use of T&G for wall panneling. Am I safe to use glue for my door? John Geddes Derbyshire Don't skimp and be a silly cheapskate - build a frame from 30 x 65 timber from B & Q - couple of quid a length. Just use overlap joints, glue with polyurethane glue plus screws and dont' forget the X braces as well. Then the weatherboarding can be pinned on to that without any worries about it's shrinkage and warping. It's not that much extra work and will produce a good reliable door that is easy to hang, easy to fit a proper lock to and is stiff and strong enough to do the job properly. I've done three doors this way recently and they have all been easy to make and are in my mind excellent. Rob |
#4
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Tongue-and-Groove shed door: glue?
John Geddes wrote:
I am making an external door for an outhouse, from T+G with a Z-brace. My instinct was to glue the planks to each other and to the brace with PVA (and to screw from the brace into the planks). But I spotted a warning on a pack of (slightly thinner) T&G (from Wickes) to nail rather than glue T&G planks. I presume that this is an issue about expansion/contraction as humidity changes - but wonder whether that was specifically relating to use of T&G for wall panneling. Am I safe to use glue for my door? John Geddes Derbyshire I have made several doors for myself and clients using 90 x 18 (finished size) tongue & groove V jointed timber in a ledged and braced design. The ledging etc timber is either 25 x 100 or 25 x 75 PAR. The covering is screwed to the ledging and bracing. I have one which I installed as a gate on the side path to my house 10 years ago - it was treated with Cuprinol clear preservative an apart from a little algal growth it is as good as new. It may be a little over engineered but it will last. Timber cost for an average door I would guess at about £35 if you use a timber merchant. Malcolm |
#5
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Tongue-and-Groove shed door: glue?
John Geddes wrote:
I am making an external door for an outhouse, from T+G with a Z-brace. My instinct was to glue the planks to each other and to the brace with PVA (and to screw from the brace into the planks). But I spotted a warning on a pack of (slightly thinner) T&G (from Wickes) to nail rather than glue T&G planks. I presume that this is an issue about expansion/contraction as humidity changes - but wonder whether that was specifically relating to use of T&G for wall panneling. Am I safe to use glue for my door? John Geddes Derbyshire No it'll break. Just screw them to the braces leaving expansion gaps -- zaax |
#6
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Tongue-and-Groove shed door: glue?
On Thu, 27 Sep 2007 06:29:13 -0700, John Geddes wrote:
I am making an external door for an outhouse, from T+G with a Z-brace. My instinct was to glue the planks to each other and to the brace with PVA (and to screw from the brace into the planks). But I spotted a warning on a pack of (slightly thinner) T&G (from Wickes) to nail rather than glue T&G planks. I presume that this is an issue about expansion/contraction as humidity changes - but wonder whether that was specifically relating to use of T&G for wall panneling. Am I safe to use glue for my door? John Geddes Derbyshire ================================== It will be quite solid without glue but prime the tongues and grooves and any other concealed areas before assembly with a good oil based primer paint. Cic. -- =================================== Using Ubuntu Linux Windows shown the door =================================== |
#7
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Tongue-and-Groove shed door: glue?
On Sep 27, 7:10 pm, Cicero wrote:
It will be quite solid without glue but prime the tongues and grooves and any other concealed areas before assembly with a good oil based primer paint. Wood stain should do too. cheers, Pete. |
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