Since the subject has come up a few times recently, I though some
pictures would help.

If anyone fancies reviewing or proofreading, then that would be appreciated:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...erminating_SWA


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 2007-09-18 21:53:23 +0100, John Rumm said:

Since the subject has come up a few times recently, I though some
pictures would help.

If anyone fancies reviewing or proofreading, then that would be appreciated:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...erminating_SWA

Looks good, John.

A couple of things.

Generally I make the steel wires a bit shorter. This makes sure that
the top sealing nut and sleeve is really sealing on the outer of the
cable and not the wires.

The ring on some fittings is cylindrical. On others it's conical and
fits one way round

It can be useful to extend the inner insulation into the box for some
applications - e.g. conductors going to a double pole switch in another
part of the box.

The way I was taught, is to cut around the outside of the cable through the
PVC and halfway through the armour strands, with a junior hacksaw.
The outer PVC is then stripped off and the armour strands can be broken
off by bending them backwards ( assuming you have cut into them deep enough)
The outer PVC can then be stripped back the required distance (I go for
about
30mm on that size gland) with a knife.

This method produces strands which are an equal length, and are not bent
slightly at the ends, which is near impossible to do by clipping them.

I was also told to leave the inner insulation proud of the front gland, to
stop
the conductors from rubbing against the gland.





"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
Since the subject has come up a few times recently, I though some pictures
would help.

If anyone fancies reviewing or proofreading, then that would be
appreciated:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...erminating_SWA


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...erminating_SWA

I wish this had been available the one time I installed SWA.

One question please. You say "the quickest way to cut it to length is
using a large pair of bolt croppers". For those of us without bolt
croppers (and who don't like asking a passing hoodie who is 'going
equipped') is there a clear second-best?

--
Robin

On 18 Sep, 22:37, "John Woodison" wrote:
The way I was taught, is to cut around the outside of the cable through the
PVC and halfway through the armour strands, with a junior hacksaw.
The outer PVC is then stripped off and the armour strands can be broken
off by bending them backwards ( assuming you have cut into them deep enough)
The outer PVC can then be stripped back the required distance (I go for
about
30mm on that size gland) with a knife.

This method produces strands which are an equal length, and are not bent
slightly at the ends, which is near impossible to do by clipping them.

I was also told to leave the inner insulation proud of the front gland, to
stop
the conductors from rubbing against the gland.

"John Rumm" wrote in message

...



Since the subject has come up a few times recently, I though some pictures
would help.

If anyone fancies reviewing or proofreading, then that would be
appreciated:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...erminating_SWA

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I do it the same as J Woodison.Gives a nice tidy end to the
armouring.Nothing to stop you doing it the way it`s shown on Wikipedia
but it looks amateurish and slow.

The way I was taught, is to cut around the outside of the cable through the
PVC and halfway through the armour strands, with a junior hacksaw.
I was also told to leave the inner insulation proud of the front gland, to
stop the conductors from rubbing against the gland.

Ditto all the above (junior hacksaw on armour, inner insulation clear
of the gland) - served my time as an electrician with a local REC,
although I suspect most of the cables we were playing with were
substantially bigger than 4mm ! (240mm can be a b*tch to bend)

Robin wrote:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...erminating_SWA
I wish this had been available the one time I installed SWA.

One question please. You say "the quickest way to cut it to length is
using a large pair of bolt croppers". For those of us without bolt
croppers (and who don't like asking a passing hoodie who is 'going
equipped') is there a clear second-best?

With the thinner ones, you can nibble through with good side cutters...
work round snipping the armour on one side, and then bend it a bit to up
the cut.

Hacksaw will do it for the thicker cables.


--
Cheers,

John.

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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
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Colin Wilson wrote:

Ditto all the above (junior hacksaw on armour, inner insulation clear
of the gland) - served my time as an electrician with a local REC,
although I suspect most of the cables we were playing with were
substantially bigger than 4mm ! (240mm can be a b*tch to bend)

Yup, I use a hacksaw on the bigger stuff, but I never find it works that
well on the small stuff - the armour tends to jiggle about too much.
Having said that it may vary with brand of cable (I tend to get mine
from the same source each time)

I will add words on hacksaw use though.

--
Cheers,

John.

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Andy Hall wrote:

It can be useful to extend the inner insulation into the box for some
applications - e.g. conductors going to a double pole switch in another
part of the box.

Indeed, in fact there are times where you may want quite a long length
of it - say coming through a wall and off to a CU - you can dump the
armour and outer sheath and carry on with just the inner for a bit.

--
Cheers,

John.

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On Tue, 18 Sep 2007 23:17:40 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

Colin Wilson wrote:

Ditto all the above (junior hacksaw on armour, inner insulation clear
of the gland) - served my time as an electrician with a local REC,
although I suspect most of the cables we were playing with were
substantially bigger than 4mm ! (240mm can be a b*tch to bend)

Yup, I use a hacksaw on the bigger stuff, but I never find it works that
well on the small stuff - the armour tends to jiggle about too much.
Having said that it may vary with brand of cable (I tend to get mine
from the same source each time)

I will add words on hacksaw use though.

Perhaps Drivel may have some suggestions for hacksaw uses too.

--
Frank Erskine

On 2007-09-18 23:37:01 +0100, Frank Erskine
said:

On Tue, 18 Sep 2007 23:17:40 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

Colin Wilson wrote:

Ditto all the above (junior hacksaw on armour, inner insulation clear
of the gland) - served my time as an electrician with a local REC,
although I suspect most of the cables we were playing with were
substantially bigger than 4mm ! (240mm can be a b*tch to bend)

Yup, I use a hacksaw on the bigger stuff, but I never find it works that
well on the small stuff - the armour tends to jiggle about too much.
Having said that it may vary with brand of cable (I tend to get mine
from the same source each time)

I will add words on hacksaw use though.

Perhaps Drivel may have some suggestions for hacksaw uses too.

He'd be advocating a pipe slice.

Andy Hall wrote:

A couple of things.

Generally I make the steel wires a bit shorter. This makes sure that
the top sealing nut and sleeve is really sealing on the outer of the
cable and not the wires.

Yup, me too usually (when not grappling with a camera at the same
time....) I have tweaked some of the photos a bit to improve this -
remember to hit refresh in your browser or it may not notice.

The ring on some fittings is cylindrical. On others it's conical and
fits one way round

I will add a note to the effect....


--
Cheers,

John.

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Great stuff, John - much appreciated.

uk.d-i-y really is one of the best Usenet resources going ;-)

Many Thanks
Jon N

On Tue, 18 Sep 2007 21:53:23 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

Since the subject has come up a few times recently, I though some
pictures would help.

If anyone fancies reviewing or proofreading, then that would be appreciated:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...erminating_SWA

Thank you for a nice informative bit of work.

I might be facing this soon and I know know the process and it is not
too daunting. Just a bit more complex than a tv coax plug. )

Hacksaw will do it for the thicker cables.


Nice to know I did something right(ish).

I've also recalled that I was advised to warm the outer insulation to
make it easier to cut. This seemed to work (it was winter). Of course
I don't know if this is general good practice.
--
Robin

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2007-09-18 21:53:23 +0100, John Rumm
said:

Since the subject has come up a few times recently, I though some
pictures would help.

If anyone fancies reviewing or proofreading, then that would be
appreciated:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...erminating_SWA

Looks good, John.

A couple of things.

Generally I make the steel wires a bit shorter. This makes sure that
the top sealing nut and sleeve is really sealing on the outer of the cable
and not the wires.

The ring on some fittings is cylindrical. On others it's conical and
fits one way round


I have noticed on some SWA gland packs that there is no separte ring, and
that the only way to get this 'done up', ends up with armour wires showing
below the fitting. (i.e. TLC SWA gland packs ... simple 2 part cone & nut)
The plastic boot does cover them.
Don't really see it's a problem as not being used underground.

"Colin Wilson" o.uk wrote
in message t...
The way I was taught, is to cut around the outside of the cable through
the
PVC and halfway through the armour strands, with a junior hacksaw.
I was also told to leave the inner insulation proud of the front gland,
to
stop the conductors from rubbing against the gland.

Ditto all the above (junior hacksaw on armour, inner insulation clear
of the gland) - served my time as an electrician with a local REC,
although I suspect most of the cables we were playing with were
substantially bigger than 4mm ! (240mm can be a b*tch to bend)

Biggest I worked on was AWCO 300mm 4 core cable with wave formed SWA ..
does that count ?
Had real man sized bar benders to form cores into correct position for
connectors.
Having to do this on branch & service joints on live cables in a trench was
fun !

On 2007-09-19 12:06:40 +0100, "Rick Hughes" said:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message ...
On 2007-09-18 21:53:23 +0100, John Rumm said:

Since the subject has come up a few times recently, I though some
pictures would help.

If anyone fancies reviewing or proofreading, then that would be appreciated:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...erminating_SWA

Looks good, John.

A couple of things.

Generally I make the steel wires a bit shorter. This makes sure that
the top sealing nut and sleeve is really sealing on the outer of the
cable and not the wires.

The ring on some fittings is cylindrical. On others it's conical and
fits one way round


I have noticed on some SWA gland packs that there is no separte ring,
and that the only way to get this 'done up', ends up with armour wires
showing below the fitting. (i.e. TLC SWA gland packs ... simple 2 part
cone & nut)
The plastic boot does cover them.
Don't really see it's a problem as not being used underground.

There are some that are internal only and others that are internal/external

Rick Hughes wrote:

Biggest I worked on was AWCO 300mm 4 core cable with wave formed SWA ..
does that count ?

Probably, but I will leave the wiki demo with 4mm if you don't mind! ;-)

(can't see many people needing more than 16mm^2 at most in a domestic
environment anyway)

Had real man sized bar benders to form cores into correct position for
connectors.

I would have thought you would need some for of mechanical leverage for
bending it at well below that core size?

Having to do this on branch & service joints on live cables in a trench
was fun !

The things you do for fun! ;-)


--
Cheers,

John.

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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm explained on 18/09/2007 :
Since the subject has come up a few times recently, I though some pictures
would help.

If anyone fancies reviewing or proofreading, then that would be appreciated:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...erminating_SWA

An alternative (better?) way to cut the armouring wires is to nick them
with a saw as a first step - cutting through the outer PVC at the same
time. Then slit the outer PVC with a knife from the above saw nick,
which then permits you to break the armouring off cleanly where it has
been nicked. Once the armour is off, you ring it again, this time with
a knife, to enable you to remove the final bit of outer PVC.

It saves damaging cutters to cut the SWA and holds it all together
until the last moment.

--

Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

Harry Bloomfield wrote:

An alternative (better?) way to cut the armouring wires is to nick them
with a saw as a first step - cutting through the outer PVC at the same

Yup, ta for that - I think we added words describing that technique last
night... I may move it to a more prominent position.

(The only time I fond the saw technique does not always work so well is
on the dinky sizes as used for that example)

--
Cheers,

John.

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\================================================= ================/

John Rumm formulated the question :
Harry Bloomfield wrote:

An alternative (better?) way to cut the armouring wires is to nick them
with a saw as a first step - cutting through the outer PVC at the same

Yup, ta for that - I think we added words describing that technique last
night... I may move it to a more prominent position.

(The only time I fond the saw technique does not always work so well is on
the dinky sizes as used for that example)

You then swap from a normal hacksaw to a junior hacksaw.

--

Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

Robin used his keyboard to write :

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...erminating_SWA

I wish this had been available the one time I installed SWA.

One question please. You say "the quickest way to cut it to length is using
a large pair of bolt croppers". For those of us without bolt croppers (and
who don't like asking a passing hoodie who is 'going equipped') is there a
clear second-best?

Yes, a hacksaw - or if available an angle grinder works quite well.

--

Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

Robin formulated on Wednesday :

Hacksaw will do it for the thicker cables.


Nice to know I did something right(ish).

I've also recalled that I was advised to warm the outer insulation to make it
easier to cut. This seemed to work (it was winter). Of course I don't know
if this is general good practice.

In winter you can find it is too cold to actually use SWA. Some of the
plastics used as the outer can become very brittle when cold.

--

Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

John Woodison formulated the question :
This method produces strands which are an equal length, and are not bent
slightly at the ends, which is near impossible to do by clipping them.

That is correct!

The next stage after the nut has been put on, is to give the inner a
quick sweep around following the direction of the armour strands, which
helps to splay them out evenly an just enough to permit the cone to
slide under the armour.

--

Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

John Rumm wrote:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...erminating_SWA

A few more points:

1. It might be worth putting in some "don'ts" - i.e. saying that using a
proper gland is the *only* acceptable way of terminating SWA where
connection to the armouring is required, as it usually is. Specifically
say that using BS 951-type earthing clamps (as used for bonding to water
& gas pipes) to connect to the armour is a big no-no, ditto for taking
SWA into an enclosure without the use of any form of gland.

2. It's a bit bizarre to show an SWA gland fitted to a flush mounting
box. The latter will usually be embedded in masonry, but the gland
(which incorporates a mechanically clamped connection of the CPC/armour)
must be accessible for inspection and testing (and re-tightening if
necessary). If the cable is being directly connected to a wiring
accessory then a surface-mounted 'metalclad' type box would be more
appropriate. (As an aside I would always mount the type of box shown
the other way up, knockouts permitting. That way the earth terminal is
at the top and is less likely to fill up with plaster and other crud.)

3. The banjo tag is usually used flat, the normal method of use being to
drill a hole in the enclosure in line with the smaller banjo hole and
use a appropriately sized screw, nut & lockwasher to give a solid earth
connection. The screw can extend inside (or outside) the enclosure to
create a stud for connecting crimp ring terminals, where necessary.

4. It's quite valid (IMO) not to use the banjo where the gland is used
on a metal enclosure, but when doing this you must be sure that the
gland itself will make a good connection. Remove paint from the
enclosure where necessary and make sure the back nut is done up really
tight. Any connection to the earth terminal of a wiring accessory will
need a tail from the earth terminal of the box to comply with 543-02-07.
Caution is also needed with enclosures which have a separate
demountable gland plate. Don't rely on the plate's fixing screws to
provide earth continuity.

5. For the smaller sizes (up to 10 mm^2) I find that a handy way of
ringing the sheath and pre-nicking the armour wires is to use a
plumber's copper pipe cutter (the rotary disc type) - try it!

There's an interesting document written by a professional electrical
surveyor on the theory and practice of using SWA available on the MSN
group "Sparky Heaven" -
http://uk.msnusers.com/SparkyHeaven/...on%20Jul06.pdf
(registration and login required for access).

--
Andy

Andy Wade wrote:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...erminating_SWA

A few more points:

1. It might be worth putting in some "don'ts" - i.e. saying that using a
proper gland is the *only* acceptable way of terminating SWA where
connection to the armouring is required, as it usually is. Specifically
say that using BS 951-type earthing clamps (as used for bonding to water
& gas pipes) to connect to the armour is a big no-no, ditto for taking
SWA into an enclosure without the use of any form of gland.

Yup, good points. Will add that.

2. It's a bit bizarre to show an SWA gland fitted to a flush mounting
box. The latter will usually be embedded in masonry, but the gland

;-) indeed, I quite agree - but it was sat on the bench in front of me
when I was looking round for something with a 20mm hole in to
demonstrate what it looked like fitted! (and I had just used my last
surface mounting adaptable box).

3. The banjo tag is usually used flat, the normal method of use being to
drill a hole in the enclosure in line with the smaller banjo hole and
use a appropriately sized screw, nut & lockwasher to give a solid earth
connection. The screw can extend inside (or outside) the enclosure to
create a stud for connecting crimp ring terminals, where necessary.

OK will add that as well. Personally I like the big lock nuts that TLC
do that have tapped holes in the side of them. The make a really solid
fixing as they are easy to tighten, and provide an easy way to take a
ring terminal terminated wire fixing.

4. It's quite valid (IMO) not to use the banjo where the gland is used
on a metal enclosure, but when doing this you must be sure that the
gland itself will make a good connection. Remove paint from the
enclosure where necessary and make sure the back nut is done up really
tight. Any connection to the earth terminal of a wiring accessory will
need a tail from the earth terminal of the box to comply with 543-02-07.

I shall do some more photos to add next time I have a suitable box to
hand. That way I can show the CPC termination more fully.

Caution is also needed with enclosures which have a separate
demountable gland plate. Don't rely on the plate's fixing screws to
provide earth continuity.

5. For the smaller sizes (up to 10 mm^2) I find that a handy way of
ringing the sheath and pre-nicking the armour wires is to use a
plumber's copper pipe cutter (the rotary disc type) - try it!

Handy tip... yup I will.


--
Cheers,

John.

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| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Andy Wade wrote:

A few more points:

OK, have a look now, I have added words as appropriate (and pointed out
that photos of a better choice of box are really needed!)


There's an interesting document written by a professional electrical
surveyor on the theory and practice of using SWA available on the MSN
group "Sparky Heaven" -
http://uk.msnusers.com/SparkyHeaven/...on%20Jul06.pdf

(registration and login required for access).

Can't get that to download in firefox... (and IE keeps wanting to
register me for a MS passport!). Could you email me a copy?

Ta

--
Cheers,

John.

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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm wrote:

OK, have a look now, I have added words as appropriate (and pointed out
that photos of a better choice of box are really needed!)

Many improvements noted. I could probably provide a photo of a cable
terminated to a more suitable box, but it would have embarrassingly red
and black conductors...

I'd still be inclined to take out reference to soldering to the banjo
tag; I don't think anyone actually does that.

--
Andy

Andy Wade wrote:

OK, have a look now, I have added words as appropriate (and pointed
out that photos of a better choice of box are really needed!)

Many improvements noted. I could probably provide a photo of a cable
terminated to a more suitable box, but it would have embarrassingly red
and black conductors...

Lob it on an email, I may be able to "recalibrate" it in photoshop ;-)

(not that red and black would matter here given the purpose of the article)

I'd still be inclined to take out reference to soldering to the banjo
tag; I don't think anyone actually does that.

waves I have done it on the odd occasion where you have a plastic box
and not much space to play with for extra fixing hardware, like some of
those external waterproof socket jobbies... (mind you, those tags are a
PITA to solder to without a powerful iron to hand - so I usually use a
pencil flame mini blowtorch)

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
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\================================================= ================/

On 20 Sep, 17:57, Andy Wade wrote:
John Rumm wrote:
OK, have a look now, I have added words as appropriate (and pointed out
that photos of a better choice of box are really needed!)

Many improvements noted. I could probably provide a photo of a cable
terminated to a more suitable box, but it would have embarrassingly red
and black conductors...

I'd still be inclined to take out reference to soldering to the banjo
tag; I don't think anyone actually does that.

--
Andy

You don't mean that you... no... surely not.

Mind you TLC still has some of this contraband