Hi all

This Part P is going to be a pain in the proverbial. Without it, I could
have done the kitchen wiring in stages.
Yes it would have taken longer, but the disruption to SWMBO would be
controllable!

Anyway, onto the matter in hand.........
We have (almost) determined a layout for the kitchen and already the
questions are arising.
Along one wall, the unit layout is likely to be as shown here
http://www.thesculls.karoo.net/images/kitchen1.bmp
So, at the left hand end I chase a vertical drop down form loft (concrete
floors) to a double socket - then chase down to below worktop height to
continue the ring behind the base units.
If the first 600 wide base unit (left of the hob) houses a dishwasher, how
is that usually supplied:
1. with a switched fused spur above worktop height alongside first double
and drop down to socket (so accessible isolation is available at the spur)
2. with a single socket below worktop, within "ring" so no access until
dishwasher is removed.

So I run the ring continuation left to right behind the base units in
trunking (I believe that there is a service void behind most units to
accommodate this practice), chasing/looping up to double sockets along the
wall as necessary.

The key question now is: what do I do for the units to the right of the
worktop.
The thing is that the tall unit to the right of the oven is to be a
concealed fridge-freezer. So where is the socket for this located? For
info, the tall unit far right is to be for cleaning items, ironing board
etc.

For the oven/hob I intended to chase down to a common oven/hob isolation
switch, chase down below worktop level for the hob feed and chase right for
the oven feed. I have a new 6mm feed ungrouped and uninsulated which I hope
will not restrict our selection of oven/hob combination.

Any comments on this first step into the unknown greatly appreciated.

TIA

Phil

scullsterhome wrote:

So, at the left hand end I chase a vertical drop down form loft (concrete
floors) to a double socket - then chase down to below worktop height to
continue the ring behind the base units.

It would be easier to chase down to the first socket and then turn right
there.

If the first 600 wide base unit (left of the hob) houses a dishwasher, how
is that usually supplied:
1. with a switched fused spur above worktop height alongside first double
and drop down to socket (so accessible isolation is available at the spur)

Yup - so you wire in a horizontal line from the first socket, dropping
in sockets and double pole switches (with neons if you want - check out
TLCs ultimate range - very neat and nice to wire as well) as required.
You can then have a single cable drop to a single socket in each
appliance gap.

2. with a single socket below worktop, within "ring" so no access until
dishwasher is removed.

No, you want to be able to isolate without pulling the appliance out.

You can sometimes cheat by positioning sockets on the back wall in
adjacent cupboards, so you can get to the lead without moving the
appliance.

So I run the ring continuation left to right behind the base units in
trunking (I believe that there is a service void behind most units to
accommodate this practice), chasing/looping up to double sockets along the
wall as necessary.

I would do it above, only dropping switched spurs to sockets as required.

The key question now is: what do I do for the units to the right of the
worktop.
The thing is that the tall unit to the right of the oven is to be a
concealed fridge-freezer. So where is the socket for this located? For
info, the tall unit far right is to be for cleaning items, ironing board
etc.

To keep options open I would place a socket at above worktop height in
the tall cupboard to the right of the FF one, and have a plug sized
cutout against the wall at the back right hand side of the FF space.
That way you can just open the rightmost cupboard to isolate the FF.

(make it a double and you have a handy cupboard for recharging your big
torch or dustbuster).

For the oven/hob I intended to chase down to a common oven/hob isolation
switch, chase down below worktop level for the hob feed and chase right for
the oven feed. I have a new 6mm feed ungrouped and uninsulated which I hope
will not restrict our selection of oven/hob combination.

Eclectic oven and hob? Chase down to the side of the hob - say 300mm or
more to the left. Turn right at mid base unit height and fit a cable
outlet and single socket (the socket used if it is a single oven - for a
double it will probably need to share the cable outlet with the hob)
flush in the wall behind the oven. That will let you switch both together.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Thu, 6 Sep 2007 20:52:16 +0100, "scullsterhome"
wrote:

This Part P is going to be a pain in the proverbial. Without it, I could
have done the kitchen wiring in stages

Why on earth are you taking the slightest notice of the silly thing?

In message ,
scullsterhome writes
Hi all

This Part P is going to be a pain in the proverbial.

You started the project before Part P came in, didn't you ...

what's the problem ?

--
geoff

"raden" wrote

This Part P is going to be a pain in the proverbial.

You started the project before Part P came in, didn't you ...

what's the problem ?

Regret that this approach is not open in this case.
The kitchen re-work involved some structural bits - therefore building
regs - therefore Part P certification needed for completion certificate.
Did manage to get the bathroom done before the pantomime started though .

Phil

"John Rumm" wrote


So, at the left hand end I chase a vertical drop down form loft (concrete
floors) to a double socket - then chase down to below worktop height to
continue the ring behind the base units.

It would be easier to chase down to the first socket and then turn right
there.
snip........

John

Thanks for your time in creating such a useful reply.
Much appreciated.
By the way - just thought I'd give the Alno kitchen planner another plug
(the software used to create the image).
No commercial interest/ties just so impressed with this free download.

Phil

TheScullster wrote:

By the way - just thought I'd give the Alno kitchen planner another plug
(the software used to create the image).

got a URL for it?


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Sep 6, 11:17 pm, raden wrote:
In message ,
scullsterhome writes

Hi all

This Part P is going to be a pain in the proverbial.

You started the project before Part P came in, didn't you ...


Is that sufficient? I mean suppose i bought a hosue where the kitchn
wiring was half redone but not yet connected in to the ring. Am I
allowed to complete it without part p? Can I continue using the drums
of red/black cable that were originally bought for the purpose?

I mean, oviously I CAN do that but i thought it was not permitted.

Robert

"John Rumm" wrote

By the way - just thought I'd give the Alno kitchen planner another plug
(the software used to create the image).

got a URL for it?


Main site link

http://www.alno.de/191.0.html

Programme link

http://kitchenplanner.alno.de/

I've tried a few and this is excellent software
Define your room size then drag the units from the side libraries - plenty
of choice in size and fittings, but some items are not quite in the category
you would expect to find them.
When you have placed a few items, switch to 3D mode to see the result.

Phil

RobertL wrote:
On Sep 6, 11:17 pm, raden wrote:
In message ,
scullsterhome writes

Hi all
This Part P is going to be a pain in the proverbial.
You started the project before Part P came in, didn't you ...


Is that sufficient? I mean suppose i bought a hosue where the kitchn
wiring was half redone but not yet connected in to the ring. Am I
allowed to complete it without part p? Can I continue using the drums
of red/black cable that were originally bought for the purpose?

I mean, oviously I CAN do that but i thought it was not permitted.

Correct, if you're doing it by the book. Using the old cable doesn't
make it OK - just makes it harder or impossible for someone to prove the
work was done after Part P came in. Incidentally, the dates of
introduction of Part P and the new cable colours were actually some time
apart (can't remember which came first), so the colour of the cables is
not actually a definitive indicator as to whether Part P rules should
have been followed.

Also, IIRC there was only a grace period of about 3 months for ongoing
projects to be completed before Part P rules applied.

David

In message , Lobster
writes
RobertL wrote:
On Sep 6, 11:17 pm, raden wrote:
In message ,
scullsterhome writes

Hi all
This Part P is going to be a pain in the proverbial.
You started the project before Part P came in, didn't you ...
Is that sufficient? I mean suppose i bought a hosue where the
kitchn
wiring was half redone but not yet connected in to the ring. Am I
allowed to complete it without part p? Can I continue using the drums
of red/black cable that were originally bought for the purpose?
I mean, oviously I CAN do that but i thought it was not permitted.

Correct, if you're doing it by the book. Using the old cable doesn't
make it OK - just makes it harder or impossible for someone to prove
the work was done after Part P came in. Incidentally, the dates of
introduction of Part P and the new cable colours were actually some
time apart (can't remember which came first), so the colour of the
cables is not actually a definitive indicator as to whether Part P
rules should have been followed.

Also, IIRC there was only a grace period of about 3 months for ongoing
projects to be completed before Part P rules applied.

But then ...

who cares ?

--
geoff