I have got a hob and intend to run it on LPG.

It has replacement jets and I have read up on replacing these and adjusting
as necessary.

I note the dangers of LPG being heavy and have pretty much decided on
getting someone in to fit it for me, how much should I expect to pay for
this, how long does it take?

Could I save much money by doing some of the work myself? If so what should
I attempt to do myself?
I imagine the best idea would be to do at least some of the pipework and
just get someone in to connect it up. I read that flexible piping cannot be
used so I guess I would need solid pipe to the outside, then some way of
onnecting solid pipe to the 'hose' which is connected to the bottle.

If somebody could describe to me the gear I will need to buy and which bits
of this job I can perform myself I would be grateful.

Cheers,

Rick

Hi Rick

There was a thread about this a couple of weeks ago.....

On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 00:22:09 +0100, "R D S" wrote:

I have got a hob and intend to run it on LPG.

It has replacement jets and I have read up on replacing these and adjusting
as necessary.

I note the dangers of LPG being heavy and have pretty much decided on
getting someone in to fit it for me, how much should I expect to pay for
this, how long does it take?

Could I save much money by doing some of the work myself? If so what should
I attempt to do myself?
I imagine the best idea would be to do at least some of the pipework and
just get someone in to connect it up. I read that flexible piping cannot be
used so I guess I would need solid pipe to the outside, then some way of
onnecting solid pipe to the 'hose' which is connected to the bottle.

If somebody could describe to me the gear I will need to buy and which bits
of this job I can perform myself I would be grateful.

There will probably be a chorus of 'If you need to ask then you're not
qualified or capable to do this youself'..... but.... in my
experience, fitting gas hobs is a fairly simple exercise.

The pipe is readily available, and is supplied 'soft' so it can be
easily bent to go round corners. I can't recall, but it's probaby
10mm, - and is generally available (by the metre) from good hardware
stores that sell the replacement gas cylinders.

The plastic sheath protects the pipe where it passes through walls
etc.

The pipe is soft when supplier, but quickly 'work-hardens' as you bend
it - so you want to think carefully about the desired run - and only
bend it once !

The cylinder end of the pipe will connect to a (say) 1 metre length of
orange flexible hose (slips over the copper pipe and secures with a
hose clip. Far end of the rubber hose connects to your regulator -
again a push-on fit with a hose clip for security.

Inside the house, you'll need appropriate fittings to go from the
copper pipe to the gas hob. You may be lucky, and find that it's all
included with the hob - or you may need to go up or down in size -
compression and solder fittings are readily available (try caravan
shops if you hav difficulty locating what you need). If compression,
use the correct 'gas-rated' ptfe tape - not the common-or-garden water
stuff...

Replace the gas jets (one per burner) with the LPG ones.

Once it's all connected - turn off the taps on the hob and turn on the
regulator. Check every joint with leak-detecting spray - or soapy
water. Remake joints if necessary.

When all is OK - try to ignite one of the hobs. It'll take a while for
the pipe to be purged of air - don't panic ! g

Once you have the burners lit, make the necessary flame adjustment as
described in the installation instructions - without this you'll have
little control over the flame...

As I say - not a big deal....

CAVEAT
If you're not confident - DON'T DO IT !
Provided it's a fairly straight run from the bottle to the hob then it
shouldn't take a qualified tradesperson very long at all - and you'll
have the peace of mind that having a pro in brings.....

Regards
Adrian

"R D S" wrote in message
...
I have got a hob and intend to run it on LPG.

It has replacement jets and I have read up on replacing these and
adjusting as necessary.

I note the dangers of LPG being heavy and have pretty much decided on
getting someone in to fit it for me, how much should I expect to pay for
this, how long does it take?

Could I save much money by doing some of the work myself? If so what
should I attempt to do myself?
I imagine the best idea would be to do at least some of the pipework and
just get someone in to connect it up. I read that flexible piping cannot
be used so I guess I would need solid pipe to the outside, then some way
of onnecting solid pipe to the 'hose' which is connected to the bottle.

If somebody could describe to me the gear I will need to buy and which
bits of this job I can perform myself I would be grateful.

Cheers,

Rick

Having an LPG cooker (oven and hob), what are the running savings over an
electric cooker?

"Adrian" wrote in message
...
Hi Rick

There was a thread about this a couple of weeks ago.....

On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 00:22:09 +0100, "R D S" wrote:

I have got a hob and intend to run it on LPG.

It has replacement jets and I have read up on replacing these and
adjusting
as necessary.

I note the dangers of LPG being heavy and have pretty much decided on
getting someone in to fit it for me, how much should I expect to pay for
this, how long does it take?

Could I save much money by doing some of the work myself? If so what
should
I attempt to do myself?
I imagine the best idea would be to do at least some of the pipework and
just get someone in to connect it up. I read that flexible piping cannot
be
used so I guess I would need solid pipe to the outside, then some way of
onnecting solid pipe to the 'hose' which is connected to the bottle.

If somebody could describe to me the gear I will need to buy and which
bits
of this job I can perform myself I would be grateful.

There will probably be a chorus of 'If you need to ask then you're not
qualified or capable to do this youself'..... but.... in my
experience, fitting gas hobs is a fairly simple exercise.

The pipe is readily available, and is supplied 'soft' so it can be
easily bent to go round corners. I can't recall, but it's probaby
10mm, - and is generally available (by the metre) from good hardware
stores that sell the replacement gas cylinders.

The plastic sheath protects the pipe where it passes through walls
etc.

The pipe is soft when supplier, but quickly 'work-hardens' as you bend
it - so you want to think carefully about the desired run - and only
bend it once !

The cylinder end of the pipe will connect to a (say) 1 metre length of
orange flexible hose (slips over the copper pipe and secures with a
hose clip. Far end of the rubber hose connects to your regulator -
again a push-on fit with a hose clip for security.

Inside the house, you'll need appropriate fittings to go from the
copper pipe to the gas hob. You may be lucky, and find that it's all
included with the hob - or you may need to go up or down in size -
compression and solder fittings are readily available (try caravan
shops if you hav difficulty locating what you need). If compression,
use the correct 'gas-rated' ptfe tape - not the common-or-garden water
stuff...

Replace the gas jets (one per burner) with the LPG ones.

Once it's all connected - turn off the taps on the hob and turn on the
regulator. Check every joint with leak-detecting spray - or soapy
water. Remake joints if necessary.

When all is OK - try to ignite one of the hobs. It'll take a while for
the pipe to be purged of air - don't panic ! g

Once you have the burners lit, make the necessary flame adjustment as
described in the installation instructions - without this you'll have
little control over the flame...

As I say - not a big deal....

CAVEAT
If you're not confident - DON'T DO IT !
Provided it's a fairly straight run from the bottle to the hob then it
shouldn't take a qualified tradesperson very long at all - and you'll
have the peace of mind that having a pro in brings.....


Hi, I am confident I can connect pipes without leaks, I did my own central
heating. I have a little more 'respect' for gas as it can do more than stain
the ceiling!

Are there any special considerations/fixings for where pipe gas
enters/leaves the wall?

Hi Rick

On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 17:54:01 +0100, "R D S" wrote:


"Adrian" wrote in message
.. .
Hi Rick

There was a thread about this a couple of weeks ago.....

On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 00:22:09 +0100, "R D S" wrote:

I have got a hob and intend to run it on LPG.

It has replacement jets and I have read up on replacing these and
adjusting
as necessary.

I note the dangers of LPG being heavy and have pretty much decided on
getting someone in to fit it for me, how much should I expect to pay for
this, how long does it take?

Could I save much money by doing some of the work myself? If so what
should
I attempt to do myself?
I imagine the best idea would be to do at least some of the pipework and
just get someone in to connect it up. I read that flexible piping cannot
be
used so I guess I would need solid pipe to the outside, then some way of
onnecting solid pipe to the 'hose' which is connected to the bottle.

If somebody could describe to me the gear I will need to buy and which
bits
of this job I can perform myself I would be grateful.

There will probably be a chorus of 'If you need to ask then you're not
qualified or capable to do this youself'..... but.... in my
experience, fitting gas hobs is a fairly simple exercise.

The pipe is readily available, and is supplied 'soft' so it can be
easily bent to go round corners. I can't recall, but it's probaby
10mm, - and is generally available (by the metre) from good hardware
stores that sell the replacement gas cylinders.

The plastic sheath protects the pipe where it passes through walls
etc.

The pipe is soft when supplier, but quickly 'work-hardens' as you bend
it - so you want to think carefully about the desired run - and only
bend it once !

The cylinder end of the pipe will connect to a (say) 1 metre length of
orange flexible hose (slips over the copper pipe and secures with a
hose clip. Far end of the rubber hose connects to your regulator -
again a push-on fit with a hose clip for security.

Inside the house, you'll need appropriate fittings to go from the
copper pipe to the gas hob. You may be lucky, and find that it's all
included with the hob - or you may need to go up or down in size -
compression and solder fittings are readily available (try caravan
shops if you hav difficulty locating what you need). If compression,
use the correct 'gas-rated' ptfe tape - not the common-or-garden water
stuff...

Replace the gas jets (one per burner) with the LPG ones.

Once it's all connected - turn off the taps on the hob and turn on the
regulator. Check every joint with leak-detecting spray - or soapy
water. Remake joints if necessary.

When all is OK - try to ignite one of the hobs. It'll take a while for
the pipe to be purged of air - don't panic ! g

Once you have the burners lit, make the necessary flame adjustment as
described in the installation instructions - without this you'll have
little control over the flame...

As I say - not a big deal....

CAVEAT
If you're not confident - DON'T DO IT !
Provided it's a fairly straight run from the bottle to the hob then it
shouldn't take a qualified tradesperson very long at all - and you'll
have the peace of mind that having a pro in brings.....


Hi, I am confident I can connect pipes without leaks, I did my own central
heating. I have a little more 'respect' for gas as it can do more than stain
the ceiling!

And it's more difficult to 'see' g

Sounds as if you should be OK....


Are there any special considerations/fixings for where pipe gas
enters/leaves the wall?


Not sure what the 'official' requirements are....

In the past I've fed the 'bare' copper pipe through a short piece of
plastic 'overflow' pipe - just to protect it from the rough edges of
the brick / concrete block.

However - I'm guessing that this new fangled plastic-coated stuff is
designed to eliminate that requirement....

The builders here simply poked the pipe through the hole. For tidyness
and to keep the insects out I later gave it a good application of
mastic...

You might also want to consider a twin-cylinder automatic changeover
valve system - but the gotcha here is that you may not realise that
you are running on the second cylinder, until that also expires
(usually on a Sunday - often a Bank Holiday weekend !)

FWIW - we found that our 47kg cylinders - running a hob and a gas
oven, tended to last about 18 months each...

Regards
Adrian

R D S explained :
Are there any special considerations/fixings for where pipe gas enters/leaves
the wall?

It would need to be sleeved where it passes through the walls.

--

Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk