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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
Hi,
I'm hoping to redo my old CH/DHW system. I like the idea of a heat bank; the best place for me would be under a worktop near the wall-mounted boiler in the kitchen. I've only found one suitable heat bank for this locationhttp://www.heatweb.com/products/cyli.../worktop.html). As far as I know, this will be rather expensive (around £1k? - more than a modern, complex, quality boiler, which seems a bit daft!). Does anyone know of any other under-the-worktop models it would be worth looking at? Cheers, Steve |
#2
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
"Steve" wrote in message ... Hi, I'm hoping to redo my old CH/DHW system. I like the idea of a heat bank; the best place for me would be under a worktop near the wall-mounted boiler in the kitchen. I've only found one suitable heat bank for this locationhttp://www.heatweb.com/products/cyli.../worktop.html). As far as I know, this will be rather expensive (around £1k? - more than a modern, complex, quality boiler, which seems a bit daft!). Does anyone know of any other under-the-worktop models it would be worth looking at? Cheers, Steve Mmmm, around £1000 eh! I feel sure that a certain person will pop up with instructions on how to build your own heat bank with an empty oil drum and the guts from an old boiler for about 25 quid. |
#3
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
On Sun, 17 Jun 2007 19:39:17 +0100, Steve wrote:
Does anyone know of any other under-the-worktop models it would be worth looking at? http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=DIY_Heat_Bank (This is a DIY group :-)) -- John Stumbles |
#4
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
On 2007-06-17 19:39:17 +0100, "Steve" said:
Hi, I'm hoping to redo my old CH/DHW system. I like the idea of a heat bank; the best place for me would be under a worktop near the wall-mounted boiler in the kitchen. I've only found one suitable heat bank for this locationhttp://www.heatweb.com/products/cyli.../worktop.html). As far as I know, this will be rather expensive (around £1k? - more than a modern, complex, quality boiler, which seems a bit daft!). Does anyone know of any other under-the-worktop models it would be worth looking at? Cheers, Steve One important thing to look at here is that by virtue of the size of an undersink unit, the storage capacity will be quite small. Normally, a heat bank stores water at 80 degrees as opposed to a conventional DHW tank storing it at 60 degrees. The impact of that is that 1.3x the volume of hot water will be produced before the stored energy runs out. So one comparison to make is whether the proposed store is less than 3/4 the capacity of your current cylinder. If it is much less, then tread carefully. The boiler will begin to reheat the store as you use water. The effect of that will depend on the boiler output. However, once the store is emptied, the rate at which it will be possible to use HW at a given temperature will reduce. You can look up the specs. of equivalent output combi boilers to get an idea of what the final output will be. |
#5
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
Thanks for the suggestions chaps. In response to a couple of your comments:
- I am intending to DIY everything myself except the (gas) boiler. However I'd not considered a DIY heat bank, but it sounds like a possibility if I can get a suitable size and shape of tank that I can properly insulate; I'll definitely consider this. - The unit would fit under a worktop where there would normally be a cupboard (rather than under the sink) and could easily be a very large tank. Steve "Steve" wrote in message ... Hi, I'm hoping to redo my old CH/DHW system. I like the idea of a heat bank; the best place for me would be under a worktop near the wall-mounted boiler .. .. |
#6
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
"Steve" wrote in message ... Hi, I'm hoping to redo my old CH/DHW system. I like the idea of a heat bank; the best place for me would be under a worktop near the wall-mounted boiler in the kitchen. I've only found one suitable heat bank for this locationhttp://www.heatweb.com/products/cyli.../worktop.html). As far as I know, this will be rather expensive (around £1k? - more than a modern, complex, quality boiler, which seems a bit daft!). Does anyone know of any other under-the-worktop models it would be worth looking at? Cheers, Steve Consider two combi boilers. Highly cost effective. They can be split to do separate taps and showers, so does not interfere with the others. Also one doing upstairs heating and one downstairs. The can be combined to fill baths quickly. |
#7
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2007-06-17 19:39:17 +0100, "Steve" said: Hi, I'm hoping to redo my old CH/DHW system. I like the idea of a heat bank; the best place for me would be under a worktop near the wall-mounted boiler in the kitchen. I've only found one suitable heat bank for this locationhttp://www.heatweb.com/products/cyli.../worktop.html). As far as I know, this will be rather expensive (around £1k? - more than a modern, complex, quality boiler, which seems a bit daft!). Does anyone know of any other under-the-worktop models it would be worth looking at? Cheers, Steve One important thing to look at here is that by virtue of the size of an undersink unit, the storage capacity will be quite small. Normally, a heat bank stores water at 80 degrees as opposed to a conventional DHW tank storing it at 60 degrees. The impact of that is that 1.3x the volume of hot water will be produced before the stored energy runs out. So one comparison to make is whether the proposed store is less than 3/4 the capacity of your current cylinder. If it is much less, then tread carefully. You don't know what you are on about. The unit the OP was looking at "combines the output" of the boiler "and" the heat bank. |
#8
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
"Steve" wrote in message ... Thanks for the suggestions chaps. In response to a couple of your comments: - I am intending to DIY everything myself except the (gas) boiler. However I'd not considered a DIY heat bank, but it sounds like a possibility if I can get a suitable size and shape of tank that I can properly insulate; I'll definitely consider this. - The unit would fit under a worktop where there would normally be a cupboard (rather than under the sink) and could easily be a very large tank. Steve How many baths, showers etc? |
#9
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
On 2007-06-17 22:14:59 +0100, "Doctor Drivel" said:
"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2007-06-17 19:39:17 +0100, "Steve" said: Hi, I'm hoping to redo my old CH/DHW system. I like the idea of a heat bank; the best place for me would be under a worktop near the wall-mounted boiler in the kitchen. I've only found one suitable heat bank for this locationhttp://www.heatweb.com/products/cyli.../worktop.html). As far as I know, this will be rather expensive (around £1k? - more than a modern, complex, quality boiler, which seems a bit daft!). Does anyone know of any other under-the-worktop models it would be worth looking at? Cheers, Steve One important thing to look at here is that by virtue of the size of an undersink unit, the storage capacity will be quite small. Normally, a heat bank stores water at 80 degrees as opposed to a conventional DHW tank storing it at 60 degrees. The impact of that is that 1.3x the volume of hot water will be produced before the stored energy runs out. So one comparison to make is whether the proposed store is less than 3/4 the capacity of your current cylinder. If it is much less, then tread carefully. You don't know what you are on about. On the contrary. You have been reading and swallowing datasheets on web sites again. The unit the OP was looking at "combines the output" of the boiler "and" the heat bank. That's marketing nonsense. The system will still be limited. With the store fully charged the boiler begins to add heat back once it fires. However, the store will still be losing heat energy at the rate of that required to heat the water minus the rate produced by the boiler. So for example, if 100kW of heat is required to be transfered to heat the water and then 30kW is supplied from the boiler, the net loss is 70kW. These are typical figures for a practical system. The 30kW will lengthen the time before the store empties, but won't prevent it happening. Once it does, the flow rate for the same water temperature will be only 30% of the original when the store was full. |
#10
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
On 2007-06-17 22:12:01 +0100, "Steve" said:
Thanks for the suggestions chaps. In response to a couple of your comments: - I am intending to DIY everything myself except the (gas) boiler. However I'd not considered a DIY heat bank, but it sounds like a possibility if I can get a suitable size and shape of tank that I can properly insulate; I'll definitely consider this. - The unit would fit under a worktop where there would normally be a cupboard (rather than under the sink) and could easily be a very large tank. Steve True, but do compare the volume of the store with that of your existing cylinder before committing yourself. |
#11
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2007-06-17 22:14:59 +0100, "Doctor Drivel" said: "Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2007-06-17 19:39:17 +0100, "Steve" said: Hi, I'm hoping to redo my old CH/DHW system. I like the idea of a heat bank; the best place for me would be under a worktop near the wall-mounted boiler in the kitchen. I've only found one suitable heat bank for this locationhttp://www.heatweb.com/products/cyli.../worktop.html). As far as I know, this will be rather expensive (around £1k? - more than a modern, complex, quality boiler, which seems a bit daft!). Does anyone know of any other under-the-worktop models it would be worth looking at? Cheers, Steve One important thing to look at here is that by virtue of the size of an undersink unit, the storage capacity will be quite small. Normally, a heat bank stores water at 80 degrees as opposed to a conventional DHW tank storing it at 60 degrees. The impact of that is that 1.3x the volume of hot water will be produced before the stored energy runs out. So one comparison to make is whether the proposed store is less than 3/4 the capacity of your current cylinder. If it is much less, then tread carefully. You don't know what you are on about. On the contrary. You have been reading and swallowing datasheets on web sites again. You are thick. The unit the OP was looking at "combines the output" of the boiler "and" the heat bank. That's marketing nonsense. You are getting thicker. The system will still be limited. With the store fully charged the boiler begins to add heat back once it fires. er...yep. So if it takes 100kW to fill bath and the boiler can add 30kW of this then only 70kW of heat need be stored making the storage vessel smaller, and small enough top fit under a worktop. This is easy to understand. |
#12
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2007-06-17 22:12:01 +0100, "Steve" said: Thanks for the suggestions chaps. In response to a couple of your comments: - I am intending to DIY everything myself except the (gas) boiler. However I'd not considered a DIY heat bank, but it sounds like a possibility if I can get a suitable size and shape of tank that I can properly insulate; I'll definitely consider this. - The unit would fit under a worktop where there would normally be a cupboard (rather than under the sink) and could easily be a very large tank. Steve True, but do compare the volume of the store with that of your existing cylinder before committing yourself. He can have a square heat bank. |
#13
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
On 2007-06-17 23:38:02 +0100, "Doctor Drivel" said:
So if it takes 100kW to fill bath and the boiler can add 30kW of this then only 70kW of heat need be stored making the storage vessel smaller, and small enough top fit under a worktop. This is easy to understand. Not by you. The power output solely determines the rate at which energy can be transfered to the water, and hence the temperature rise for a given flow rate. The issue is for how long will the store be able to supply this rate. You can't store 70kW of heat. The kW is a measure of power, not of energy. The contributing effect of the boiler also applies to a conventional cylinder. That may be a little more for a direct heatbank than for an indirect coil cylinder, but it is not correct to suggest that the phenomenon is exclusive to the heatbank. That would be misleading. It is true, as I said in the first place, that a heat bank can store 30% more energy than a conventional cylinder of equivalent size. Therefore, obviously one can have a store only 3/4 of the size for an equivalent output. My point was that even a full appliance space under a worktop will only accomodate a limited size of store. One should take the capacity of the proposed store, multiply by 4/3 to be able to determine the equivalent size of conventional cylinder that it can replace. Whether that is adequate will depend on the pattern of use. It's important to point out that while heatbank technology is useful, it is not magic, can't get a two litres from a one litre pot and certainly can't defy physics. Despite what it says in glossy brochures and on web sites. |
#14
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2007-06-17 23:38:02 +0100, "Doctor Drivel" said: So if it takes 100kW to fill bath and the boiler can add 30kW of this then only 70kW of heat need be stored making the storage vessel smaller, and small enough top fit under a worktop. This is easy to understand. Not by you. Matt, I just explained it to you. Your thickness got in the way. You can't store 70kW of heat. The kW is a measure of power, not of energy. The contributing effect of the boiler also applies to a conventional cylinder. Nope. The heat from the boiler goes directly into the DHW plate heat exchanger in this heat bank. With cylinder the heat build up is slow as it is indirect and heated not at the very top of the cylinder. That may be a little more for a direct heatbank than for an indirect coil cylinder, but it is not correct to suggest that the phenomenon is exclusive to the heatbank. That would be misleading. Unless a cylinder is heated directly then it will be the same It is true, as I said in the first place, that a heat bank can store 30% more energy than a conventional cylinder of equivalent size. About right. Therefore, obviously one can have a store only 3/4 of the size for an equivalent output. Nope. The cylinder stores 30% more energy supplemented by the boiler, say 30kW. My point was that even a full appliance space under a worktop will only accomodate a limited size of store. A square vessel even more. It's important to point out that while heatbank technology is useful, it is not magic, can't get a two litres from a one litre pot and certainly can't defy physics. Matt, you need to learn some sums. |
#15
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote: only 70kW of heat need be stored Isn't it about time you went to night school and learnt some basics? Far better than wasting your time down the pub. -- *Any connection between your reality and mine is purely coincidental Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#16
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... In article ews.net, Doctor Drivel wrote: only 70kW of heat need be stored Isn't Please eff off you are a total idiot. |
#17
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote: "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... In article ews.net, Doctor Drivel wrote: only 70kW of heat need be stored Isn't it about time you went to night school and learnt some basics? Far better than wasting your time down the pub. Please eff off you are a total idiot. Well this 'idiot' understands the difference between energy and power so I wonder what that makes you? Apart from a pratt, obviously. BTW, still waiting for that visit from your policemen friends. Or have you conveniently forgotten that episode from your life of fantasy? -- *Generally speaking, you aren't learning much if your lips are moving.* Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#18
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
On 2007-06-18 01:45:29 +0100, "Doctor Drivel" said:
Nope. The heat from the boiler goes directly into the DHW plate heat exchanger in this heat bank. With cylinder the heat build up is slow as it is indirect and heated not at the very top of the cylinder. Irrelevant. The issue is how long will thre be a supply of energy from the heat bank as a result of what has been stored. Therefore, obviously one can have a store only 3/4 of the size for an equivalent output. Nope. The cylinder stores 30% more energy supplemented by the boiler, say 30kW. The kW is not a measurement of energy. The cylinder stores 30% more energy. It's irrelevant for comparison purposes to include boiler contribution because that happens with a conventional cylinder as well. My point was that even a full appliance space under a worktop will only accomodate a limited size of store. A square vessel even more. The additional pump, heat exchanger and controls all have to be accomodated. It's important to point out that while heatbank technology is useful, it is not magic, can't get a two litres from a one litre pot and certainly can't defy physics. Matt, you need to learn some sums. You mean the kind where kW are a measure of energy? |
#19
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
Doctor Drivel wrote:
He can have a square heat bank. That would be kind of pointless. Something more approximating a cube would be more useful - it would at least be able to store some water then. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#20
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2007-06-18 01:45:29 +0100, "Doctor Drivel" said: The cylinder stores 30% more energy. It's irrelevant for comparison purposes to include boiler contribution because that happens with a conventional cylinder as well. With heat bank the useful hot water from the boiler goes pretty immediately to the taps. Does not happen with a normal cylinder and coil as most heat rises up by convection. My point was that even a full appliance space under a worktop will only accomodate a limited size of store. A square vessel even more. The additional pump, heat exchanger and controls all have to be accomodated. Gosh. He is getting it. Nah he isn't. It's important to point out that while heatbank technology is useful, it is not magic, can't get a two litres from a one litre pot and certainly can't defy physics. Matt, you need to learn some sums. You mean the kind where kW are a measure of energy? kW/hr. Gosh |
#21
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... In article ews.net, Doctor Drivel wrote: "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... In article ews.net, Doctor Drivel wrote: only 70kW of heat need be stored Isn't it about time you went to night school and learnt some basics? Far better than wasting your time down the pub. Please eff off you are a total idiot. Well this 'idiot' Correct an idiot, so please eff off as you are a total idiot. |
#22
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
"John Rumm" wrote in message ... Doctor Drivel wrote: He can have a square heat bank. That would be kind of pointless. You really don't know do you? |
#23
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
On 2007-06-18 08:51:20 +0100, "Doctor Drivel" said:
"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2007-06-18 01:45:29 +0100, "Doctor Drivel" said: The cylinder stores 30% more energy. It's irrelevant for comparison purposes to include boiler contribution because that happens with a conventional cylinder as well. With heat bank the useful hot water from the boiler goes pretty immediately to the taps. Does not happen with a normal cylinder and coil as most heat rises up by convection. This is confused nonsense. The heat exchanger does not care about the source of its heat. You mean the kind where kW are a measure of energy? kW/hr. Gosh ROTFL. |
#24
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
"Doctor Drivel" wrote in message reenews.net... "Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2007-06-18 01:45:29 +0100, "Doctor Drivel" said: The cylinder stores 30% more energy. It's irrelevant for comparison purposes to include boiler contribution because that happens with a conventional cylinder as well. With heat bank the useful hot water from the boiler goes pretty immediately to the taps. Does not happen with a normal cylinder and coil as most heat rises up by convection. My point was that even a full appliance space under a worktop will only accomodate a limited size of store. A square vessel even more. The additional pump, heat exchanger and controls all have to be accomodated. Gosh. He is getting it. Nah he isn't. It's important to point out that while heatbank technology is useful, it is not magic, can't get a two litres from a one litre pot and certainly can't defy physics. I hestitae to intervene in such a 'big-end' ~ little-end' dispute between two obvious Laputan experts ... however let me interject some observations based on direct experience of a heat bank;- The heat bank has several loops which all interact within the tank itself; one 'loop' is the 'heating loop where the working fluid is sent off to the boiler to garner heat. This loop has a pipe at the base of the tank (input to the boiler) and a pipe discharging the top of the tank. After a while the tank will be filled with water ,essentially, all at the desired teemperature for the tank. The DHW is obtained by taking the working fluid and passing it throygh a heat-exchanger wherein it surrenders heat to the mains water and produces DHW. The 'cooled' working fluid re-enters the tank at the bottom. Thus if one considers the working fluid to be a column of laminae, each layer / lamina to be a body of fliuid each of a discrete temperature they will self-organise with the hottest at the top and the coldest at the bottom (stratification].. As working fluid ciirculates through the 'boiler -loop' it re-enter the tank at the boiler-demand temperature and, thanks to stratification', floats at the top of the cylinder. It is this hottest layer that goes into the heat-echanger to surrender it's heat into the DHW. In pratical _experience_ once the boiler 'fires' it's heat is availlable to provide DHW _almost_ instantly! [for variable valeus of _almost_ and _instantly_] A heat bank is not magic; there's owt for nowt; _but_ the 'useful hot water from the boiler goes pretty immediately to the taps' _via_ the plate heat-exchanger and for an almost imperceptable value of immediate. And; whilst; "can't get a two litres from a one litre pot and certainly can't defy physics."; one can _exploit_ the physics of stratification and hot 'stuff' rises while cold 'stuff' falls to ensure that the energy flow is maximised from boller-tank-heat-echanger-DHW-taps! It's not 'physics'; it's clever engineering / plumbing. -- Brian |
#25
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2007-06-18 08:51:20 +0100, "Doctor Drivel" said: "Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2007-06-18 01:45:29 +0100, "Doctor Drivel" said: The cylinder stores 30% more energy. It's irrelevant for comparison purposes to include boiler contribution because that happens with a conventional cylinder as well. With heat bank the useful hot water from the boiler goes pretty immediately to the taps. Does not happen with a normal cylinder and coil as most heat rises up by convection. This is confused nonsense. The heat exchanger does not care about the source of its heat. You need to understand how they work. |
#26
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
"Brian Sharrock" wrote in message news "Doctor Drivel" wrote in message reenews.net... "Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2007-06-18 01:45:29 +0100, "Doctor Drivel" said: The cylinder stores 30% more energy. It's irrelevant for comparison purposes to include boiler contribution because that happens with a conventional cylinder as well. With heat bank the useful hot water from the boiler goes pretty immediately to the taps. Does not happen with a normal cylinder and coil as most heat rises up by convection. My point was that even a full appliance space under a worktop will only accomodate a limited size of store. A square vessel even more. The additional pump, heat exchanger and controls all have to be accomodated. Gosh. He is getting it. Nah he isn't. It's important to point out that while heatbank technology is useful, it is not magic, can't get a two litres from a one litre pot and certainly can't defy physics. I hestitae to intervene in such a 'big-end' ~ little-end' dispute between two obvious Laputan experts ... however let me interject some observations based on direct experience of a heat bank;- The heat bank has several loops which all interact within the tank itself; one 'loop' is the 'heating loop where the working fluid is sent off to the boiler to garner heat. This loop has a pipe at the base of the tank (input to the boiler) and a pipe discharging the top of the tank. After a while the tank will be filled with water ,essentially, all at the desired teemperature for the tank. The DHW is obtained by taking the working fluid and passing it throygh a heat-exchanger wherein it surrenders heat to the mains water and produces DHW. The 'cooled' working fluid re-enters the tank at the bottom. Thus if one considers the working fluid to be a column of laminae, each layer / lamina to be a body of fliuid each of a discrete temperature they will self-organise with the hottest at the top and the coldest at the bottom (stratification].. As working fluid ciirculates through the 'boiler -loop' it re-enter the tank at the boiler-demand temperature and, thanks to stratification', floats at the top of the cylinder. It is this hottest layer that goes into the heat-echanger to surrender it's heat into the DHW. In pratical _experience_ once the boiler 'fires' it's heat is availlable to provide DHW _almost_ instantly! [for variable valeus of _almost_ and _instantly_] Yep, that is what I said. After designing implementing countless stores and heat banks I would know this sort of thing. Even Stumbles noted this in his DIYed heat bank on 22.3.2007..... With my own setup on the few occasions that we've run the bank cold (which is inevitably when you've got into a half-full bath and the hot's run cold) it takes just a few minutes to get a reasonable stream of hot water out again. With the non-rapid-recovery conventional cylinder we had before you could, if you were patient, get a trickle of hot water out after a quarter of an hour or so. Apart from the equivalence of a directly-coupled arrangement to an infinitely rapid-recovery coil I think there's also the factor that even the fastest coil is heating the top half or so of the cylinder by convection whereas in the direct heat bank the hot flow from the boiler is probably getting sucked directly out of the top of the cylinder by the DHW pump. A heat bank is not magic; there's owt for nowt; _but_ the 'useful hot water from the boiler goes pretty immediately to the taps' _via_ the plate heat-exchanger and for an almost imperceptable value of immediate. And; whilst; "can't get a two litres from a one litre pot and certainly can't defy physics."; one can _exploit_ the physics of stratification and hot 'stuff' rises while cold 'stuff' falls to ensure that the energy flow is maximised from boller-tank-heat-echanger-DHW-taps! It's not 'physics'; it's clever engineering / plumbing. Yep. Combining the output of the boiler and energy in the cylinder a smaller cylinder may be used. It also acts as a wonderful buffer for CH too. The Germans are way into thermal storage and leave us standing on some designs. |
#27
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
On 2007-06-18 09:38:44 +0100, "Brian Sharrock" said:
The heat bank has several loops which all interact within the tank itself; one 'loop' is the 'heating loop where the working fluid is sent off to the boiler to garner heat. This loop has a pipe at the base of the tank (input to the boiler) and a pipe discharging the top of the tank. After a while the tank will be filled with water ,essentially, all at the desired teemperature for the tank. The DHW is obtained by taking the working fluid and passing it throygh a heat-exchanger wherein it surrenders heat to the mains water and produces DHW. The 'cooled' working fluid re-enters the tank at the bottom. Thus if one considers the working fluid to be a column of laminae, each layer / lamina to be a body of fliuid each of a discrete temperature they will self-organise with the hottest at the top and the coldest at the bottom (stratification].. As working fluid ciirculates through the 'boiler -loop' it re-enter the tank at the boiler-demand temperature and, thanks to stratification', floats at the top of the cylinder. It is this hottest layer that goes into the heat-echanger to surrender it's heat into the DHW. In pratical _experience_ once the boiler 'fires' it's heat is availlable to provide DHW _almost_ instantly! [for variable valeus of _almost_ and _instantly_] A heat bank is not magic; there's owt for nowt; _but_ the 'useful hot water from the boiler goes pretty immediately to the taps' _via_ the plate heat-exchanger and for an almost imperceptable value of immediate. And; whilst; "can't get a two litres from a one litre pot and certainly can't defy physics."; one can _exploit_ the physics of stratification and hot 'stuff' rises while cold 'stuff' falls to ensure that the energy flow is maximised from boller-tank-heat-echanger-DHW-taps! It's not 'physics'; it's clever engineering / plumbing. A good explanation, Brian. My original point was not about how quickly the heatbank can produce hot water starting from all cold condition, but rather what happens in terms of capacity to continue to produce the initially high flow rate of hot water at the taps. It is obvious enough, as you say, that if the cylinder is cold and the DHW is turned on that heat from the boiler will be transfered fairly effectively to the heat exchanger and will produce some hot water. Assuming that little or none goes to heating the store at this time, the rate of production at the taps will depend totally on the boiler and will be similar to the behaviour of a combi of equivalent heat output. However, there are only cases, AFAICS, where you would have this situation: - Coming back from holiday or something, turning on the boiler and wanting DHW quickly. This is comparatively rare. - Heatbank has run out of stored heat and DHW Iis running in "instant " mode. I suppose that one could operate the store by letting it cool overnight and coming on in the morning (e.g. like an immersion heater) - it would seem to be an odd thing to do. The case that I was refering to was what happens when the store is hot and one begins to draw DHW. In that scenario, the issue of whether the heat contributed by the boiler is delivered to the heat exchanger plus a smaller amount from the store or whether it's all from the store and being replenished by the boiler is somewhat irrelevant. It will still be the same time and the same amount of energy before the store runs out. My point was about how long is that going to be. Clearly a heatbank is useful technology, that was not in dispute, but people who have been used to stored hot water expect constant flow and temperature and are frequently disappointed if they swap for an inadequate combi. Therefore issue 1 is how long at the intended rate of use will it be before the hot water production rate drops, and issue 2 is when it has, will the user be happy with the result. Issue 1 can be dealt with by having an adequately sized store and adequately sized boiler Issue 2 can be dealt with by having an adequately sized boiler. Obviously one can choose appropriately. The danger area is replacing a typically sized conventional HW cylinder where the user has been used to a plentiful supply of HW at constant flow and temperature with volume that always exceeds his requirements with a small store and retaining a possibly inadequate boiler. |
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
On 2007-06-18 09:45:06 +0100, "Doctor Drivel" said:
"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2007-06-18 08:51:20 +0100, "Doctor Drivel" said: "Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2007-06-18 01:45:29 +0100, "Doctor Drivel" said: The cylinder stores 30% more energy. It's irrelevant for comparison purposes to include boiler contribution because that happens with a conventional cylinder as well. With heat bank the useful hot water from the boiler goes pretty immediately to the taps. Does not happen with a normal cylinder and coil as most heat rises up by convection. This is confused nonsense. The heat exchanger does not care about the source of its heat. You need to understand how they work. The principle of stratification is not in dispute; nor is what happens when the cylinder is cold or runs cold. When it is hot, and energy is being witdrawn at a higher rate than the boiler is producing it, it's completely irrelevant as to whether the heat from the boiler is going into the store or to the heat exchanger; the net effect is the same. Have you looked up what the unit of energy is yet? |
#29
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
On Sun, 17 Jun 2007 22:12:01 +0100, Steve wrote:
- I am intending to DIY everything myself except the (gas) boiler. However I'd not considered a DIY heat bank, but it sounds like a possibility if I can get a suitable size and shape of tank that I can properly insulate; I'll definitely consider this. - The unit would fit under a worktop where there would normally be a cupboard (rather than under the sink) and could easily be a very large tank. I think McDonald engineering to a smallish squattish cylinder with a rapid recovery coil which might do the trick if the boiler has a sealed primary. The ideal of course would be a rectangular[1] tank which would fit under the w/t with a bit of space in front for the PHE, pump etc. [1] what's the name for 3-dimensional rectangle? i.e. square corners, unequal sides? -- John Stumbles Procrastinate now! |
#30
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
On Sun, 17 Jun 2007 22:12:21 +0100, Doctor Drivel wrote:
Consider two combi boilers. Highly cost effective. They can be split to do separate taps and showers, so does not interfere with the others. Also one doing upstairs heating and one downstairs. The can be combined to fill baths quickly. [Fx: CHEERING from amassed regulars of uk.d-i-y] But you forgot to say the combis' gas feeds should be run separately back to the meter (or better still separately all the way back to the North Sea or Russia) -- John Stumbles Things don't like being anthropomorphised. |
#31
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
Andy Hall wrote:
You mean the kind where kW are a measure of energy? kW/hr. Gosh That would be kJ/h^2 dribble, try again. ROTFL. Interesting concept though.... perhaps he has a combi that can out accelerate his prius. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#32
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
"John Stumbles" wrote in message ... snip [1] what's the name for 3-dimensional rectangle? i.e. square corners, unequal sides? You choose;- Cuboid ... or ... Right Prism. .... or ... rectangular parallelepiped ..... or rectangular prism -- John Stumbles -- Brian |
#33
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
John Stumbles wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jun 2007 22:12:21 +0100, Doctor Drivel wrote: Consider two combi boilers. Highly cost effective. They can be split to do separate taps and showers, so does not interfere with the others. Also one doing upstairs heating and one downstairs. The can be combined to fill baths quickly. [Fx: CHEERING from amassed regulars of uk.d-i-y] Its just not the same without Humph and the lovely Samantha though.... -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#34
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
In article ,
John Stumbles wrote: [1] what's the name for 3-dimensional rectangle? i.e. square corners, unequal sides? Box? -- *The sooner you fall behind, the more time you'll have to catch up * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#35
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
In article ,
John Stumbles wrote: Consider two combi boilers. Highly cost effective. They can be split to do separate taps and showers, so does not interfere with the others. Also one doing upstairs heating and one downstairs. The can be combined to fill baths quickly. [Fx: CHEERING from amassed regulars of uk.d-i-y] But you forgot to say the combis' gas feeds should be run separately back to the meter (or better still separately all the way back to the North Sea or Russia) And separate water supplies. Extra parking for the two vans at service time. Get different makes so they don't break down together. -- *How many roads must a man travel down before he admits he is lost? Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#36
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote: Yep, that is what I said. After designing implementing countless stores and heat banks I would know this sort of thing. The mind boggles. -- *Confession is good for the soul, but bad for your career. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#37
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
On Sun, 17 Jun 2007 19:39:17 +0100, Steve wrote:
I've only found one suitable heat bank for this locationhttp://www.heatweb.com/products/cyli.../worktop.html). Hmmm, not sure I'd have shown a Potterton Profile in the illustration if I were trying to impress the punters. -- John Stumbles I forgot to take my amnesia medecine again |
#38
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
"Brian Sharrock" wrote in message ... "John Stumbles" wrote in message ... snip [1] what's the name for 3-dimensional rectangle? i.e. square corners, unequal sides? You choose;- Cuboid ... or ... Right Prism. .... or ... rectangular parallelepiped .... or rectangular prism no, I choose "box" ) -- Bob Mannix (anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not) |
#39
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
"Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2007-06-18 09:45:06 +0100, "Doctor Drivel" said: "Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2007-06-18 08:51:20 +0100, "Doctor Drivel" said: "Andy Hall" wrote in message ... On 2007-06-18 01:45:29 +0100, "Doctor Drivel" said: The cylinder stores 30% more energy. It's irrelevant for comparison purposes to include boiler contribution because that happens with a conventional cylinder as well. With heat bank the useful hot water from the boiler goes pretty immediately to the taps. Does not happen with a normal cylinder and coil as most heat rises up by convection. This is confused nonsense. The heat exchanger does not care about the source of its heat. You need to understand how they work. The principle of stratification is not in dispute; nor is what happens when the cylinder is cold or runs cold. When it is hot, and energy is being witdrawn at a higher rate than the boiler is producing it, it's completely irrelevant as to whether the heat from the boiler is going into the store or to the heat exchanger; the net effect is the same. You ensure only hot water enters the top of the cylinder. |
#40
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Heat bank for under a kitchen worktop
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... In article ews.net, Doctor Drivel wrote: Yep, that is what I said. After designing implementing countless stores and heat banks I would know this sort of thing. The mind Please eff off. |
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