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TheScullster May 16th 07 04:17 PM
securing to plasterboard wall
 

wrote

Hello,

I wanted to put a small towel radiator (40cm by 70cm) on the wall but
it's a plasterboard wall.

Would it be able to support the weight of the radiator plus water? If
so, what fixing do you recommend?

Or will I have to open up the wall and add noggins etc? I was hoping
not to.

I have both landing and bathroom rads on the crappest plasterboard walls
imaginable (known as Paramount walls).
They are little more than partitions with 1-1/2" timber supports at WIDE
spacings.
Even so, with the right fixings, radiators sit there quite happily fastened
to the board not the timber.
I would recommend the all metal plasterboard fixers.
These need a 10mm hole drilling in the board and include a threaded nut at
the "bottom".
The fixing is inserted into the hole and the screw is tightened to lock the
fixing in place.
The screw can then be removed and the fixing stays put.
Wouldn't attempt hanging a rad on these plastic type butterfly thingies
mind.

May not be capable of withstanding strong person pulling hard on a towel
that is reef knotted to the top of a towel rad!!!

HTH

Phil



The Natural Philosopher May 16th 07 07:30 PM
securing to plasterboard wall
 
wrote:
On Wed, 16 May 2007 16:17:34 +0100, "TheScullster"
wrote:

I have both landing and bathroom rads on the crappest plasterboard walls
imaginable (known as Paramount walls).
They are little more than partitions with 1-1/2" timber supports at WIDE
spacings.
Even so, with the right fixings, radiators sit there quite happily fastened
to the board not the timber.


Hello,

It's only a small towel rad I want to fix, so it should be much
lighter than a "real" radiator.

I was thinking of using something like a metal hollow wall anchor, the
screwfix code is 11143; I'm not saying I will use that particular
size, but is this the kind of thing you were recommending?

Thanks.
those are not bad..however I generally find there is quite a lot of
making good anyway, so I am of the 'cut out the board and put in a
noggin' brigade myself..

Mike Clarke May 16th 07 11:23 PM
securing to plasterboard wall
 
wrote:

It's only a small towel rad I want to fix, so it should be much
lighter than a "real" radiator.

I was thinking of using something like a metal hollow wall anchor, the
screwfix code is 11143; I'm not saying I will use that particular
size, but is this the kind of thing you were recommending?

They should do the job fine, I've had much heavier loads on these things
with no problems.

For most plasterboard you'll probably need code 18266 which should grip
boards between 6 and 13mm thick or 12229 for 8 to 16mm.

If you think you're likely to use many of these the setting tool (12429) is
well worthwhile, If you use a screwdriver to set them they sometimes twist
round making a mess of the plaster as you turn the screw to compress them
but the setting tool gives a clean straight pull.

--
Mike Clarke

Lobster May 17th 07 09:48 AM
securing to plasterboard wall
 
TheScullster wrote:
wrote
I wanted to put a small towel radiator (40cm by 70cm) on the wall but
it's a plasterboard wall.

Would it be able to support the weight of the radiator plus water? If
so, what fixing do you recommend?

Or will I have to open up the wall and add noggins etc? I was hoping
not to.

I have both landing and bathroom rads on the crappest plasterboard walls
imaginable (known as Paramount walls).
They are little more than partitions with 1-1/2" timber supports at WIDE
spacings.
Even so, with the right fixings, radiators sit there quite happily fastened
to the board not the timber.

There's a man with no kids in the house...

David

Lobster May 19th 07 05:15 PM
securing to plasterboard wall
 
wrote:
On Wed, 16 May 2007 23:23:50 +0100, Mike Clarke
wrote:

For most plasterboard you'll probably need code 18266 which should grip
boards between 6 and 13mm thick or 12229 for 8 to 16mm.

Hi, I've got these ready but I've already tiles the wall I want to use
them on. They've got spikes in their back to pierce the plaster. In an
ideal world, should they go under the tile, or should can I put them
through the tile and just cut the spikey bits off so they don't damage
the tile?

Well, in an ideal world you need something more substantial beneath the
plasterboard, like a batten, for the screws to bite into. But if you're
intent on using these, then they would certainly be better being under
the tile; if you want to put them on top then for sure cut the spike
off. I don't know which depth of fitting you have but make sure that
they are deep enough so that the expanding part doesn't open up within
the actual plasterboard (instead of behind it), or even worse, within
the tile.

Hopefully you have no air gaps in the adhesive between the tile and
plasterboard, or you'll be highly likely to crack the tiles when you
tighten up the screws.

David

Mike Clarke May 19th 07 05:44 PM
securing to plasterboard wall
 
wrote:

Hi, I've got these ready but I've already tiles the wall I want to use
them on. They've got spikes in their back to pierce the plaster. In an
ideal world, should they go under the tile, or should can I put them
through the tile and just cut the spikey bits off so they don't damage
the tile?

I'd just bend the spikes back flat before using them, the metal is quite
soft.

You'd have needed to allow for the thickness of the tile as well as the
plasterboard when choosing what length fixing to use.

I wonder if there's any danger you might crack the tile as you compress the
fitting. I imagine it's unlikely but if there is then I expect there would
be less risk with the setting tool than by screwing it up to compress it.

--
Mike Clarke

[email protected] May 20th 07 10:27 AM
securing to plasterboard wall
 
On 16 May, 23:23, Mike Clarke wrote:
If you think you're likely to use many of these the setting tool (12429) is
well worthwhile, If you use a screwdriver to set them they sometimes twist
round making a mess of the plaster as you turn the screw to compress them
but the setting tool gives a clean straight pull.

Seconded - the other aspect is that the screw heads often seem
to be made of cheese, so if you tighten by turning, you've got
good odds of wrecking the head

John


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