OK, this is a dumb question i'm sure, but i'm looking for tips and/or
inspiration please :-}

I have a leaky rad - it appears to be the "stub" that goes into the
rad itself, rather than the rest of the valve (which looks like this
one :

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=11074&ts=60837

I haven't played much with plumbing, and although I can see how the
valve part seems to seal against the "stub" by virtue of the nuts,
which will have olives behind them (I think!), I can't see a way to
tighten the "stub" end into the rad - there are no flats I can get a
spanner on as far as I can tell to tighten it.

There's a little PTFE around the thread as it goes into the rad, but I
suspect when it was fitted, it was the plumbers' vaguely indifferent
apprentice who tightened it (or otherwise...)

I suppose i'm just a little worried that if I grab it with a pair of
pipe grips i'll just crush it (although there isn't an awful lot of
room to get a bite on it to begin with) :-}

I could even be completely wrong, and find out that the nut is
captive, and it's only the general application of PTFE to the valve
itself stops the damn thing from leaking, but I suspect not :-}

TIA :-}

On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 20:32:59 +0100, Colin Wilson
o.uk mused:

OK, this is a dumb question i'm sure, but i'm looking for tips and/or
inspiration please :-}

I have a leaky rad - it appears to be the "stub" that goes into the
rad itself, rather than the rest of the valve (which looks like this
one :

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=11074&ts=60837

I haven't played much with plumbing, and although I can see how the
valve part seems to seal against the "stub" by virtue of the nuts,
which will have olives behind them (I think!), I can't see a way to
tighten the "stub" end into the rad - there are no flats I can get a
spanner on as far as I can tell to tighten it.

There's a little PTFE around the thread as it goes into the rad, but I
suspect when it was fitted, it was the plumbers' vaguely indifferent
apprentice who tightened it (or otherwise...)

I suppose i'm just a little worried that if I grab it with a pair of
pipe grips i'll just crush it (although there isn't an awful lot of
room to get a bite on it to begin with) :-}

I could even be completely wrong, and find out that the nut is
captive, and it's only the general application of PTFE to the valve
itself stops the damn thing from leaking, but I suspect not :-}

Allen key up the middle of the tail for tightening and removing. Some
do have flats on them for fitting and removing without the allen key.
--
Regards,
Stuart.

Allen key up the middle of the tail for tightening and removing. Some
do have flats on them for fitting and removing without the allen key.

Ahh - thanks, i'm *sure* the aforementioned apprentice didn't use one
on any of the rads - just used the valve body itself to add leverage !

On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 21:52:43 +0100, Colin Wilson wrote:

Allen key up the middle of the tail for tightening and removing. Some
do have flats on them for fitting and removing without the allen key.

Ahh - thanks, i'm *sure* the aforementioned apprentice didn't use one
on any of the rads - just used the valve body itself to add leverage !

Which works fine except:
1) The valve might not go all the way around (especial it might foul the
supply pipe).
2) The valve even when done up really tight can still slip on the tail.
In this case you simply have to cut off the coupling nut and use stilsons
to get the grip needed.
3) The new tail is easier to fit using a radiator key not the new valve
(which may well be a thermostatic and have no suitable gripping areas).



--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html
Gas Fitting Standards Docs he http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFittingStandards

Allen key up the middle of the tail for tightening and removing. Some
do have flats on them for fitting and removing without the allen key.
Ahh - thanks, i'm *sure* the aforementioned apprentice didn't use one
on any of the rads - just used the valve body itself to add leverage !
Which works fine except:

I wasn't arguing - just making the point that it seems to have been
done a little lax the first time :-)