Hi all, after some recent posts here regarding mitre angles, I am
making slow progress.

I have calculated the hard way (as all the compound mitre calculations
on line are american, confusing and keep referring to a "Miter") using
measurements from a fixed point and my sons protractor that with a
piece of 4x2 I need to cut the 4 inch face at a mitre of 40 degrees to
the long side and then bevel this at 30 degrees on the 2 inch side.

I am blowed if my De Walt will let me do that.

I have 0 to 45 degrees bevel (thats 0 degrees from perpendicular) and
0 to 45 degrees mitre.

I need to bevel down to a setting of 60 degrees on the perpendicular
and to 50 degrees on the mitre and I just don't have those stops on my
saw.

Did I buy the wrong saw or do I need to apply some lateral thinking
that currently escapes me?

I did consider that I could put my 4x2 end on into the saw but that
looks dangerous to me.

help !!!!

:-)

cheers all,

jON

sadsjon wrote:
Hi all, after some recent posts here regarding mitre angles, I am
making slow progress.

I have calculated the hard way (as all the compound mitre calculations
on line are american, confusing and keep referring to a "Miter") using
measurements from a fixed point and my sons protractor that with a
piece of 4x2 I need to cut the 4 inch face at a mitre of 40 degrees to
the long side and then bevel this at 30 degrees on the 2 inch side.

I am blowed if my De Walt will let me do that.

I have 0 to 45 degrees bevel (thats 0 degrees from perpendicular) and
0 to 45 degrees mitre.

I need to bevel down to a setting of 60 degrees on the perpendicular
and to 50 degrees on the mitre and I just don't have those stops on my
saw.

Can't visualise what you're doing, but often subtracting your angles
from 90 helps. 30 and 40 degs are the same as 60 and 50 depending on
whether you're looking at the workpiece or the offcut.



Did I buy the wrong saw or do I need to apply some lateral thinking
that currently escapes me?

I did consider that I could put my 4x2 end on into the saw but that
looks dangerous to me.

help !!!!

:-)

cheers all,

jON

sadsjon wrote:
Hi all, after some recent posts here regarding mitre angles, I am
making slow progress.

I have calculated the hard way (as all the compound mitre calculations
on line are american, confusing and keep referring to a "Miter") using
measurements from a fixed point and my sons protractor that with a
piece of 4x2 I need to cut the 4 inch face at a mitre of 40 degrees to
the long side and then bevel this at 30 degrees on the 2 inch side.

I am blowed if my De Walt will let me do that.

I have 0 to 45 degrees bevel (thats 0 degrees from perpendicular) and
0 to 45 degrees mitre.

I need to bevel down to a setting of 60 degrees on the perpendicular
and to 50 degrees on the mitre and I just don't have those stops on my
saw.

Take as big a piece of wood as you can cut in one go (both deep and
wide), and cut a 45 degree mitre AND a 45 degree bevel in it.

Now you can stick your 4x2 on that, and cut a 5 degree mitre and a 15
degree bevel.

Then let me know it it worked alright!

Ben

Hi All, I am attaching a couple of links to pictures that I took
showing the piece of timber face on and edge on.

http://www.rowlan.co.uk/image_00008.jpg
http://www.rowlan.co.uk/image_00009.jpg

I am trying to work out the angles needed to cu and fit battons and
block insulation to the void as well as shoring up some of the
timbers.

I want my cuts to be as accurate as possible.

This piece I cut with an old fashion push pull thing ... a handsaw I
heard someone call it once ... its close enough for my liking but hard
work ! (I think the saw is blunt :-)
(ignore the circular saw marks on the face - I was tidying the face up
with the mitre saw)

The problem is that I can only mitre at up to 45 degrees, regardless
of whether I use the offcut side of the other side. My stop is at 45
degrees both bevel and mitre.

I can only bevel at anything up 45 to 90 degrees but I need to bevel
at 30 degrees.

If it can't be done then I reckon I would be better off using a
handsaw, I can see your idea Ben but I think a handsaw will probably
give me more accuracy. I am not sure how I can get the timber fixed to
a mitre and a bevel at the same time in any case ???

jON

sadsjon wrote:
Hi All, I am attaching a couple of links to pictures that I took
showing the piece of timber face on and edge on.

http://www.rowlan.co.uk/image_00008.jpg
http://www.rowlan.co.uk/image_00009.jpg

I am trying to work out the angles needed to cu and fit battons and
block insulation to the void as well as shoring up some of the
timbers.

I want my cuts to be as accurate as possible.

This piece I cut with an old fashion push pull thing ... a handsaw I
heard someone call it once ... its close enough for my liking but hard
work ! (I think the saw is blunt :-)
(ignore the circular saw marks on the face - I was tidying the face up
with the mitre saw)

The problem is that I can only mitre at up to 45 degrees, regardless
of whether I use the offcut side of the other side. My stop is at 45
degrees both bevel and mitre.

I can only bevel at anything up 45 to 90 degrees but I need to bevel
at 30 degrees.

If it can't be done then I reckon I would be better off using a
handsaw, I can see your idea Ben but I think a handsaw will probably
give me more accuracy. I am not sure how I can get the timber fixed to
a mitre and a bevel at the same time in any case ???

jON


Offer the sample piece up to the saw and it should become obvious
whether you can do it in one cut or not. Has to be possible in 2 cuts
which would still be a big improvement over a handsaw

sadsjon wrote:
Hi All, I am attaching a couple of links to pictures that I took
showing the piece of timber face on and edge on.

http://www.rowlan.co.uk/image_00008.jpg
http://www.rowlan.co.uk/image_00009.jpg

I am trying to work out the angles needed to cu and fit battons and
block insulation to the void as well as shoring up some of the
timbers.

I want my cuts to be as accurate as possible.

This piece I cut with an old fashion push pull thing ... a handsaw I
heard someone call it once ... its close enough for my liking but hard
work ! (I think the saw is blunt :-)
(ignore the circular saw marks on the face - I was tidying the face up
with the mitre saw)

The problem is that I can only mitre at up to 45 degrees, regardless
of whether I use the offcut side of the other side. My stop is at 45
degrees both bevel and mitre.

I can only bevel at anything up 45 to 90 degrees but I need to bevel
at 30 degrees.

If it can't be done then I reckon I would be better off using a
handsaw, I can see your idea Ben but I think a handsaw will probably
give me more accuracy. I am not sure how I can get the timber fixed to
a mitre and a bevel at the same time in any case ???

jON

Ben Blaukopf wrote:
If it can't be done then I reckon I would be better off using a
handsaw, I can see your idea Ben but I think a handsaw will probably
give me more accuracy. I am not sure how I can get the timber fixed to
a mitre and a bevel at the same time in any case ???

What I meant to say was...

What about doing the main cut on the mitre saw (or hand saw if you feel
the urge), and then tidying it up with a plane on a shooting block?

OR:

I agree, clamping for a compound mitre will be difficult. So you may
need to do it in two stages. Prepare two separate shims, one for the
mitre, one for the bevel, and do the cut in two steps. You'll need to
place the workpiece next to the mitre shim, but on top of the bevel
shim. I'll try drawing a diagram if that doesn't make sense.

The trouble is you've now got to position the wood precisely for the
second cut, but at least if you start a little long it's easy to shave
off half a mil.

Ben

sadsjon wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi All, I am attaching a couple of links to pictures that I took
showing the piece of timber face on and edge on.

http://www.rowlan.co.uk/image_00008.jpg


If it can't be done then I reckon I would be better off using a
handsaw, I can see your idea Ben but I think a handsaw will probably
give me more accuracy. I am not sure how I can get the timber fixed to
a mitre and a bevel at the same time in any case ???



Get yourself a nice new hardpoint handsaw, if you cut the wood in the
picture by hand you have the necessary skill.
I still find it quicker to cut angles like that by hand rather then farting
about setting up a compound mitre saw.




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