Worktop mason's mitre jigs
 

Why do these jigs specify a minimum worktop width?

I need to join a couple of bullnose bathroom worktops at right angles;
they're about 200mm deep which seems to be smaller than any of the jigs
can handle - any suggestions on how to do it?
I wondered about using the aluminium corner joint strips but can't find
anything for a 14mm bull nose.

Dave

Worktop mason's mitre jigs
 

NoSpam wrote:
Why do these jigs specify a minimum worktop width?

I need to join a couple of bullnose bathroom worktops at right angles;
they're about 200mm deep which seems to be smaller than any of the jigs
can handle - any suggestions on how to do it?
I wondered about using the aluminium corner joint strips but can't find
anything for a 14mm bull nose.

Dave

Poor form to answer myself, but having just found a manual on the Trend
site the answer is blindingly obvious - it's just down to where the
guide holes are drilled. I presume all I need to do is ignore the
pre-drilled guide bush locations and align the jig to suit the depth of
the worktop.

Dave

Worktop mason's mitre jigs
 

NoSpam wrote:

Why do these jigs specify a minimum worktop width?

I need to join a couple of bullnose bathroom worktops at right angles;
they're about 200mm deep which seems to be smaller than any of the jigs
can handle - any suggestions on how to do it?
I wondered about using the aluminium corner joint strips but can't find
anything for a 14mm bull nose.

They usually have predrilled holes that you stick locating pegs through
to help hold the jig in place. The holes are located for "standard"
worktop depths[1]. You can probably still use one to do what you want,
but will need to resort to careful clamping of the jig instead.


[1] Recalls time when helping a mate finish off his kitchen, I made the
mistake of asking him if the the worktops were standard 600mm ones
rather than measuring them. Yes says he. Only after a test fitting where
the front edge of the returning bit of worktop fell short of the mitre
cut in the other bit by a couple of inches, did he remember that he had
cut that bit down in depth a little bit!

(at this point we decided that perhaps continuing the oak edging we were
going to put round the butler sink cutout, right round all of the
worktop would be a good idea).

--
Cheers,

John.

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Worktop mason's mitre jigs
 

On Sun, 14 Jan 2007 14:10:12 +0000, NoSpam wrote:

Why do these jigs specify a minimum worktop width?

I need to join a couple of bullnose bathroom worktops at right angles;
they're about 200mm deep which seems to be smaller than any of the jigs
can handle - any suggestions on how to do it?
I wondered about using the aluminium corner joint strips but can't find
anything for a 14mm bull nose.

Given that the depth is only 200mm you won't waste a lot of worktop by
cutting a straight 45 degree line. You should be able to use the jig to
set that up by just using clamps.




--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html
Gas Fitting Standards Docs he http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFittingStandards

Worktop mason's mitre jigs
 

Ed Sirett wrote:
On Sun, 14 Jan 2007 14:10:12 +0000, NoSpam wrote:

Why do these jigs specify a minimum worktop width?

I need to join a couple of bullnose bathroom worktops at right angles;
they're about 200mm deep which seems to be smaller than any of the jigs
can handle - any suggestions on how to do it?
I wondered about using the aluminium corner joint strips but can't find
anything for a 14mm bull nose.

Given that the depth is only 200mm you won't waste a lot of worktop by
cutting a straight 45 degree line. You should be able to use the jig to
set that up by just using clamps.


Thanks Ed. I did wonder about doing that but I need to make one of the
lengths removable (cistern access), so the idea was to use some dowels
rather than glue and connectors - easier to do with a mason's mitre than
with a 45 degree joint (also, I've already cut them roughly to length :-) )

Dave

Worktop mason's mitre jigs
 

On Mon, 15 Jan 2007 22:14:12 +0000, NoSpam wrote:

Ed Sirett wrote:
On Sun, 14 Jan 2007 14:10:12 +0000, NoSpam wrote:

Why do these jigs specify a minimum worktop width?

I need to join a couple of bullnose bathroom worktops at right angles;
they're about 200mm deep which seems to be smaller than any of the jigs
can handle - any suggestions on how to do it?
I wondered about using the aluminium corner joint strips but can't find
anything for a 14mm bull nose.

Given that the depth is only 200mm you won't waste a lot of worktop by
cutting a straight 45 degree line. You should be able to use the jig to
set that up by just using clamps.


Thanks Ed. I did wonder about doing that but I need to make one of the
lengths removable (cistern access), so the idea was to use some dowels
rather than glue and connectors - easier to do with a mason's mitre than
with a 45 degree joint (also, I've already cut them roughly to length :-) )

Dave

I would have though that the jig would get two pegs in contact but you'll
have to make your own assessment of the angle.


--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html
Gas Fitting Standards Docs he http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFittingStandards