Hi,

I recently had four doors chemically stripped. The results have not
been as pleasing as I had hoped!

The doors are the five panel design and around 100 years old. They were
covered in paint over the original shellac finish.

I am not sure what kind of wood they are but it might be cedarwood -
there are no knots and they are quite hard.

The problems I have now are that some of the panels have bowed.

Many of the panel mouldings are loose and nearly all have very
significant gaps.

I have refitted some of the mouldings but this is rather hazardous as
removing them can cause further damage.

Can anyone recommend suitable filler to use between the frame and
mouldings - one which will shrink when it dries out?

I am hoping to finish with danish oil and wax - the wood looks like it
needs a good feeding


thanks

Andy

On 26 Nov 2006 14:58:23 -0800, "andy" wrote:

Hi,

I recently had four doors chemically stripped. The results have not
been as pleasing as I had hoped!

The doors are the five panel design and around 100 years old. They were
covered in paint over the original shellac finish.

I am not sure what kind of wood they are but it might be cedarwood -
there are no knots and they are quite hard.

The problems I have now are that some of the panels have bowed.

Many of the panel mouldings are loose and nearly all have very
significant gaps.

I have refitted some of the mouldings but this is rather hazardous as
removing them can cause further damage.

Can anyone recommend suitable filler to use between the frame and
mouldings - one which will shrink when it dries out?

I am hoping to finish with danish oil and wax - the wood looks like it
needs a good feeding


thanks

Andy

If they are anything like my victorian doors you'll find that the panels are
made of cheaper and thinner wood which is the reason it has warped . At least
your doors still have the mouldings.many had them removed and flushed .

Don't know what you can fill the gaps with though considering you are not
repainting them .

Stuart wrote:
On 26 Nov 2006 14:58:23 -0800, "andy" wrote:

Hi,

I recently had four doors chemically stripped. The results have not
been as pleasing as I had hoped!

The doors are the five panel design and around 100 years old. They were
covered in paint over the original shellac finish.

I am not sure what kind of wood they are but it might be cedarwood -
there are no knots and they are quite hard.

The problems I have now are that some of the panels have bowed.

Many of the panel mouldings are loose and nearly all have very
significant gaps.

I have refitted some of the mouldings but this is rather hazardous as
removing them can cause further damage.

Can anyone recommend suitable filler to use between the frame and
mouldings - one which will shrink when it dries out?

I am hoping to finish with danish oil and wax - the wood looks like it
needs a good feeding


thanks

Andy

If they are anything like my victorian doors you'll find that the panels are
made of cheaper and thinner wood which is the reason it has warped . At least
your doors still have the mouldings.many had them removed and flushed .

Don't know what you can fill the gaps with though considering you are not
repainting them .

Thanks for the reply Stuart.
You are probably right about the panels. There are only 6mm thick but
they are the same type of wood. The mouldings do not sit proud of the
door structure but I guess I am lucky in that they have never had the
hardboard flushing treatment. I now have a phobia about dipping shops
and might have to scrape and nitromors the rest.

Andy

andy wrote:
Hi,

I recently had four doors chemically stripped. The results have not
been as pleasing as I had hoped!

The doors are the five panel design and around 100 years old. They were
covered in paint over the original shellac finish.

I am not sure what kind of wood they are but it might be cedarwood -
there are no knots and they are quite hard.

The problems I have now are that some of the panels have bowed.

Many of the panel mouldings are loose and nearly all have very
significant gaps.

I have refitted some of the mouldings but this is rather hazardous as
removing them can cause further damage.

Can anyone recommend suitable filler to use between the frame and
mouldings - one which will shrink when it dries out?

I am hoping to finish with danish oil and wax - the wood looks like it
needs a good feeding



I'm told that the chemicals aren't removed from the wood completely, so
it helps to thoroughly wipe over with vinegar to counteract them and
stop the wood continuing to dry out. Oiling needs to be done fairly
soon afterwards.

A

Stuart wrote:
On 26 Nov 2006 14:58:23 -0800, "andy" wrote:

Hi,

I recently had four doors chemically stripped. The results have not
been as pleasing as I had hoped!

The doors are the five panel design and around 100 years old. They were
covered in paint over the original shellac finish.

I am not sure what kind of wood they are but it might be cedarwood -
there are no knots and they are quite hard.

The problems I have now are that some of the panels have bowed.

Many of the panel mouldings are loose and nearly all have very
significant gaps.

I have refitted some of the mouldings but this is rather hazardous as
removing them can cause further damage.

Can anyone recommend suitable filler to use between the frame and
mouldings - one which will shrink when it dries out?

I am hoping to finish with danish oil and wax - the wood looks like it
needs a good feeding


thanks

Andy

If they are anything like my victorian doors you'll find that the panels are
made of cheaper and thinner wood which is the reason it has warped . At least
your doors still have the mouldings.many had them removed and flushed .

Don't know what you can fill the gaps with though considering you are not
repainting them .

Plastic wood of the appropriate color is as good as it gets for filling
stained wood.

However it beats me why anyone would want to strip a cheap victorian
door. They were made of **** that was designed to be painted, for good
reason.

Cue UK-DIY 2050

"How can I strip melamine off a 1960's chipboard table: I want to expose
the natural grain and stain it"

andy wrote:
Stuart wrote:
On 26 Nov 2006 14:58:23 -0800, "andy" wrote:

Hi,

I recently had four doors chemically stripped. The results have not
been as pleasing as I had hoped!

The doors are the five panel design and around 100 years old. They were
covered in paint over the original shellac finish.

I am not sure what kind of wood they are but it might be cedarwood -
there are no knots and they are quite hard.

The problems I have now are that some of the panels have bowed.

Many of the panel mouldings are loose and nearly all have very
significant gaps.

I have refitted some of the mouldings but this is rather hazardous as
removing them can cause further damage.

Can anyone recommend suitable filler to use between the frame and
mouldings - one which will shrink when it dries out?

I am hoping to finish with danish oil and wax - the wood looks like it
needs a good feeding


thanks

Andy
If they are anything like my victorian doors you'll find that the panels are
made of cheaper and thinner wood which is the reason it has warped . At least
your doors still have the mouldings.many had them removed and flushed .

Don't know what you can fill the gaps with though considering you are not
repainting them .

Thanks for the reply Stuart.
You are probably right about the panels. There are only 6mm thick but
they are the same type of wood. The mouldings do not sit proud of the
door structure but I guess I am lucky in that they have never had the
hardboard flushing treatment. I now have a phobia about dipping shops
and might have to scrape and nitromors the rest.

Andy


Sounds like by "chemically stripped" you mean caustic. Dip 'n Strip type
franchises use a non-caustic method which, to me, doesn't look as good,
but at least you shouldn't get warping of panels.
I always give stripped doors a coat of peroxide which cleans up the
surface and generally undoes any colour changes brought about by
chemical reaction with the wood.
Normally the moulding round the panels is part of the frame so maybe the
gaps you're referring to are between panel and moulding?

On Mon, 27 Nov 2006 13:10:56 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

andy wrote:
Stuart wrote:
On 26 Nov 2006 14:58:23 -0800, "andy" wrote:

Hi,

I recently had four doors chemically stripped. The results have not
been as pleasing as I had hoped!

The doors are the five panel design and around 100 years old. They were
covered in paint over the original shellac finish.

I am not sure what kind of wood they are but it might be cedarwood -
there are no knots and they are quite hard.

The problems I have now are that some of the panels have bowed.

Many of the panel mouldings are loose and nearly all have very
significant gaps.

I have refitted some of the mouldings but this is rather hazardous as
removing them can cause further damage.

Can anyone recommend suitable filler to use between the frame and
mouldings - one which will shrink when it dries out?

I am hoping to finish with danish oil and wax - the wood looks like it
needs a good feeding


thanks

Andy
If they are anything like my victorian doors you'll find that the panels are
made of cheaper and thinner wood which is the reason it has warped . At least
your doors still have the mouldings.many had them removed and flushed .

Don't know what you can fill the gaps with though considering you are not
repainting them .

Thanks for the reply Stuart.
You are probably right about the panels. There are only 6mm thick but
they are the same type of wood. The mouldings do not sit proud of the
door structure but I guess I am lucky in that they have never had the
hardboard flushing treatment. I now have a phobia about dipping shops
and might have to scrape and nitromors the rest.

Andy


Sounds like by "chemically stripped" you mean caustic. Dip 'n Strip type
franchises use a non-caustic method which, to me, doesn't look as good,
but at least you shouldn't get warping of panels.
I always give stripped doors a coat of peroxide which cleans up the
surface and generally undoes any colour changes brought about by
chemical reaction with the wood.
Normally the moulding round the panels is part of the frame so maybe the
gaps you're referring to are between panel and moulding?

Any doors I have seen have the mouldings pinned to the door . Don't see how they
could be part of the frame .!!! ( or was that not what you meant)

wrote:
andy wrote:
Hi,

I recently had four doors chemically stripped. The results have not
been as pleasing as I had hoped!

The doors are the five panel design and around 100 years old. They were
covered in paint over the original shellac finish.

I am not sure what kind of wood they are but it might be cedarwood -
there are no knots and they are quite hard.

The problems I have now are that some of the panels have bowed.

Many of the panel mouldings are loose and nearly all have very
significant gaps.

I have refitted some of the mouldings but this is rather hazardous as
removing them can cause further damage.

Can anyone recommend suitable filler to use between the frame and
mouldings - one which will shrink when it dries out?

I am hoping to finish with danish oil and wax - the wood looks like it
needs a good feeding



I'm told that the chemicals aren't removed from the wood completely, so
it helps to thoroughly wipe over with vinegar to counteract them and
stop the wood continuing to dry out. Oiling needs to be done fairly
soon afterwards.

A


Hi,

thanks for all the comments and tips.
I agree that I should have had a plan as regards the final finishing
and got them sorted soon after getting them back from dipping.
The mouldings are nailed to the door structure.
The doors were not originally painted white so to my mind the wood was
meant to be on display. Stripping a whole house is a major task so I
have now decided to only strip those areas that were originally
finished in shellac/wax. The house is 1906 so I guess that dates it as
Edwardian.

Andy

On Mon, 27 Nov 2006 15:06:32 +0000, Stuart
wrote:

On Mon, 27 Nov 2006 13:10:56 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

andy wrote:
Stuart wrote:
On 26 Nov 2006 14:58:23 -0800, "andy" wrote:

Hi,

I recently had four doors chemically stripped. The results have not
been as pleasing as I had hoped!

The doors are the five panel design and around 100 years old. They were
covered in paint over the original shellac finish.

I am not sure what kind of wood they are but it might be cedarwood -
there are no knots and they are quite hard.

The problems I have now are that some of the panels have bowed.

Many of the panel mouldings are loose and nearly all have very
significant gaps.

I have refitted some of the mouldings but this is rather hazardous as
removing them can cause further damage.

Can anyone recommend suitable filler to use between the frame and
mouldings - one which will shrink when it dries out?

I am hoping to finish with danish oil and wax - the wood looks like it
needs a good feeding


thanks

Andy
If they are anything like my victorian doors you'll find that the panels are
made of cheaper and thinner wood which is the reason it has warped . At least
your doors still have the mouldings.many had them removed and flushed .

Don't know what you can fill the gaps with though considering you are not
repainting them .

Thanks for the reply Stuart.
You are probably right about the panels. There are only 6mm thick but
they are the same type of wood. The mouldings do not sit proud of the
door structure but I guess I am lucky in that they have never had the
hardboard flushing treatment. I now have a phobia about dipping shops
and might have to scrape and nitromors the rest.

Andy


Sounds like by "chemically stripped" you mean caustic. Dip 'n Strip type
franchises use a non-caustic method which, to me, doesn't look as good,
but at least you shouldn't get warping of panels.
I always give stripped doors a coat of peroxide which cleans up the
surface and generally undoes any colour changes brought about by
chemical reaction with the wood.
Normally the moulding round the panels is part of the frame so maybe the
gaps you're referring to are between panel and moulding?

Any doors I have seen have the mouldings pinned to the door . Don't see how they
could be part of the frame .!!! ( or was that not what you meant)

nearly all doors have any mouldings as part of the frame.

On Mon, 27 Nov 2006 19:16:04 GMT, marvelus wrote:


Normally the moulding round the panels is part of the frame so maybe the
gaps you're referring to are between panel and moulding?

Any doors I have seen have the mouldings pinned to the door . Don't see how they
could be part of the frame .!!! ( or was that not what you meant)

nearly all doors have any mouldings as part of the frame.

Yes but what exactly do you mean by "part of the frame" . As I said before any
ones I have seen have the mouldings pinned to the door and that's what the OP
has ..as he said in a previous posting .

Stuart wrote:
On Mon, 27 Nov 2006 13:10:56 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

andy wrote:
Stuart wrote:
On 26 Nov 2006 14:58:23 -0800, "andy" wrote:

Hi,

I recently had four doors chemically stripped. The results have not
been as pleasing as I had hoped!

The doors are the five panel design and around 100 years old. They were
covered in paint over the original shellac finish.

I am not sure what kind of wood they are but it might be cedarwood -
there are no knots and they are quite hard.

The problems I have now are that some of the panels have bowed.

Many of the panel mouldings are loose and nearly all have very
significant gaps.

I have refitted some of the mouldings but this is rather hazardous as
removing them can cause further damage.

Can anyone recommend suitable filler to use between the frame and
mouldings - one which will shrink when it dries out?

I am hoping to finish with danish oil and wax - the wood looks like it
needs a good feeding


thanks

Andy
If they are anything like my victorian doors you'll find that the panels are
made of cheaper and thinner wood which is the reason it has warped . At least
your doors still have the mouldings.many had them removed and flushed .

Don't know what you can fill the gaps with though considering you are not
repainting them .
Thanks for the reply Stuart.
You are probably right about the panels. There are only 6mm thick but
they are the same type of wood. The mouldings do not sit proud of the
door structure but I guess I am lucky in that they have never had the
hardboard flushing treatment. I now have a phobia about dipping shops
and might have to scrape and nitromors the rest.

Andy

Sounds like by "chemically stripped" you mean caustic. Dip 'n Strip type
franchises use a non-caustic method which, to me, doesn't look as good,
but at least you shouldn't get warping of panels.
I always give stripped doors a coat of peroxide which cleans up the
surface and generally undoes any colour changes brought about by
chemical reaction with the wood.
Normally the moulding round the panels is part of the frame so maybe the
gaps you're referring to are between panel and moulding?

Any doors I have seen have the mouldings pinned to the door . Don't see how they
could be part of the frame .!!! ( or was that not what you meant)

Take a look at any mass produced door. Spindle moulder....mirror profiles

Stuart wrote:
On Mon, 27 Nov 2006 13:10:56 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:
andy wrote:
Stuart wrote:
On 26 Nov 2006 14:58:23 -0800, "andy" wrote:

Hi,

I recently had four doors chemically stripped. The results have not
been as pleasing as I had hoped!

The doors are the five panel design and around 100 years old. They were
covered in paint over the original shellac finish.

I am not sure what kind of wood they are but it might be cedarwood -
there are no knots and they are quite hard.

The problems I have now are that some of the panels have bowed.

Many of the panel mouldings are loose and nearly all have very
significant gaps.

all the result of the dipping i expect. There is a reason why its not
recommended. Also the dip attacks the glue in the joints, so your doors
start to part at the joins, gaps show up etc. It doesnt leave the wood
surface in good shape either.


Normally the moulding round the panels is part of the frame so maybe the
gaps you're referring to are between panel and moulding?

Any doors I have seen have the mouldings pinned to the door . Don't see how they
could be part of the frame .!!! ( or was that not what you meant)

Both types exist.


NT

Hi,

thanks for all the comments and tips.
I agree that I should have had a plan as regards the final finishing
and got them sorted soon after getting them back from dipping.
The mouldings are nailed to the door structure.
The doors were not originally painted white so to my mind the wood was
meant to be on display. Stripping a whole house is a major task so I
have now decided to only strip those areas that were originally
finished in shellac/wax. The house is 1906 so I guess that dates it as
Edwardian.

Andy

Stripping by dipping is virtually always a disaster and should be
avoided at all costs. If you must do it then I'd remove paint carefully
with a hot air gun which might just leave your original varnish intact
if you are lucky. If not then I'd repaint or re-varnish.
Bare wood was NEVER left as such "on display" except in cowsheds,
kitchens etc and the whole idea is fairly stupid, luckily now almost
out of fashion.

cheers
Jacob

On Tue, 28 Nov 2006 11:15:30 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

Stuart wrote:
On Mon, 27 Nov 2006 13:10:56 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

andy wrote:
Stuart wrote:
On 26 Nov 2006 14:58:23 -0800, "andy" wrote:

Hi,

I recently had four doors chemically stripped. The results have not
been as pleasing as I had hoped!

The doors are the five panel design and around 100 years old. They were
covered in paint over the original shellac finish.

I am not sure what kind of wood they are but it might be cedarwood -
there are no knots and they are quite hard.

The problems I have now are that some of the panels have bowed.

Many of the panel mouldings are loose and nearly all have very
significant gaps.

I have refitted some of the mouldings but this is rather hazardous as
removing them can cause further damage.

Can anyone recommend suitable filler to use between the frame and
mouldings - one which will shrink when it dries out?

I am hoping to finish with danish oil and wax - the wood looks like it
needs a good feeding


thanks

Andy
If they are anything like my victorian doors you'll find that the panels are
made of cheaper and thinner wood which is the reason it has warped . At least
your doors still have the mouldings.many had them removed and flushed .

Don't know what you can fill the gaps with though considering you are not
repainting them .
Thanks for the reply Stuart.
You are probably right about the panels. There are only 6mm thick but
they are the same type of wood. The mouldings do not sit proud of the
door structure but I guess I am lucky in that they have never had the
hardboard flushing treatment. I now have a phobia about dipping shops
and might have to scrape and nitromors the rest.

Andy

Sounds like by "chemically stripped" you mean caustic. Dip 'n Strip type
franchises use a non-caustic method which, to me, doesn't look as good,
but at least you shouldn't get warping of panels.
I always give stripped doors a coat of peroxide which cleans up the
surface and generally undoes any colour changes brought about by
chemical reaction with the wood.
Normally the moulding round the panels is part of the frame so maybe the
gaps you're referring to are between panel and moulding?

Any doors I have seen have the mouldings pinned to the door . Don't see how they
could be part of the frame .!!! ( or was that not what you meant)

Take a look at any mass produced door. Spindle moulder....mirror profiles

But the OP's ( an mine) doors are 100 years old .

normanwisdom wrote:
Hi,

thanks for all the comments and tips.
I agree that I should have had a plan as regards the final finishing
and got them sorted soon after getting them back from dipping.
The mouldings are nailed to the door structure.
The doors were not originally painted white so to my mind the wood was
meant to be on display. Stripping a whole house is a major task so I
have now decided to only strip those areas that were originally
finished in shellac/wax. The house is 1906 so I guess that dates it as
Edwardian.

Andy

Stripping by dipping is virtually always a disaster and should be
avoided at all costs.

Hardly ever a disaster if it's done properly, and it's the only method
that removes *all* the paint (from the mouldings as well).


If you must do it then I'd remove paint carefully
with a hot air gun which might just leave your original varnish intact
if you are lucky. If not then I'd repaint or re-varnish.
Bare wood was NEVER left as such "on display" except in cowsheds,
kitchens etc and the whole idea is fairly stupid, luckily now almost
out of fashion.

I take it you don't like the look of wood.

Stuart wrote:
On Tue, 28 Nov 2006 11:15:30 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

Stuart wrote:
On Mon, 27 Nov 2006 13:10:56 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

andy wrote:
Stuart wrote:
On 26 Nov 2006 14:58:23 -0800, "andy" wrote:

Hi,

I recently had four doors chemically stripped. The results have not
been as pleasing as I had hoped!

The doors are the five panel design and around 100 years old. They were
covered in paint over the original shellac finish.

I am not sure what kind of wood they are but it might be cedarwood -
there are no knots and they are quite hard.

The problems I have now are that some of the panels have bowed.

Many of the panel mouldings are loose and nearly all have very
significant gaps.

I have refitted some of the mouldings but this is rather hazardous as
removing them can cause further damage.

Can anyone recommend suitable filler to use between the frame and
mouldings - one which will shrink when it dries out?

I am hoping to finish with danish oil and wax - the wood looks like it
needs a good feeding


thanks

Andy
If they are anything like my victorian doors you'll find that the panels are
made of cheaper and thinner wood which is the reason it has warped . At least
your doors still have the mouldings.many had them removed and flushed .

Don't know what you can fill the gaps with though considering you are not
repainting them .
Thanks for the reply Stuart.
You are probably right about the panels. There are only 6mm thick but
they are the same type of wood. The mouldings do not sit proud of the
door structure but I guess I am lucky in that they have never had the
hardboard flushing treatment. I now have a phobia about dipping shops
and might have to scrape and nitromors the rest.

Andy

Sounds like by "chemically stripped" you mean caustic. Dip 'n Strip type
franchises use a non-caustic method which, to me, doesn't look as good,
but at least you shouldn't get warping of panels.
I always give stripped doors a coat of peroxide which cleans up the
surface and generally undoes any colour changes brought about by
chemical reaction with the wood.
Normally the moulding round the panels is part of the frame so maybe the
gaps you're referring to are between panel and moulding?
Any doors I have seen have the mouldings pinned to the door . Don't see how they
could be part of the frame .!!! ( or was that not what you meant)
Take a look at any mass produced door. Spindle moulder....mirror profiles

But the OP's ( an mine) doors are 100 years old .

And you don't think the Victorians mass produced joinery?

On Tue, 28 Nov 2006 13:23:23 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

Stuart wrote:
On Tue, 28 Nov 2006 11:15:30 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

Stuart wrote:
On Mon, 27 Nov 2006 13:10:56 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

andy wrote:
Stuart wrote:
On 26 Nov 2006 14:58:23 -0800, "andy" wrote:

Hi,

I recently had four doors chemically stripped. The results have not
been as pleasing as I had hoped!

The doors are the five panel design and around 100 years old. They were
covered in paint over the original shellac finish.

I am not sure what kind of wood they are but it might be cedarwood -
there are no knots and they are quite hard.

The problems I have now are that some of the panels have bowed.

Many of the panel mouldings are loose and nearly all have very
significant gaps.

I have refitted some of the mouldings but this is rather hazardous as
removing them can cause further damage.

Can anyone recommend suitable filler to use between the frame and
mouldings - one which will shrink when it dries out?

I am hoping to finish with danish oil and wax - the wood looks like it
needs a good feeding


thanks

Andy
If they are anything like my victorian doors you'll find that the panels are
made of cheaper and thinner wood which is the reason it has warped . At least
your doors still have the mouldings.many had them removed and flushed .

Don't know what you can fill the gaps with though considering you are not
repainting them .
Thanks for the reply Stuart.
You are probably right about the panels. There are only 6mm thick but
they are the same type of wood. The mouldings do not sit proud of the
door structure but I guess I am lucky in that they have never had the
hardboard flushing treatment. I now have a phobia about dipping shops
and might have to scrape and nitromors the rest.

Andy

Sounds like by "chemically stripped" you mean caustic. Dip 'n Strip type
franchises use a non-caustic method which, to me, doesn't look as good,
but at least you shouldn't get warping of panels.
I always give stripped doors a coat of peroxide which cleans up the
surface and generally undoes any colour changes brought about by
chemical reaction with the wood.
Normally the moulding round the panels is part of the frame so maybe the
gaps you're referring to are between panel and moulding?
Any doors I have seen have the mouldings pinned to the door . Don't see how they
could be part of the frame .!!! ( or was that not what you meant)
Take a look at any mass produced door. Spindle moulder....mirror profiles

But the OP's ( an mine) doors are 100 years old .

And you don't think the Victorians mass produced joinery?

I wasn't around at the time .:-)

All I was really saying was that any doors on tenements around here ( Glasgow)

have seperate mouldings pinned to the door around the panels .

Stripping by dipping is virtually always a disaster and should be
avoided at all costs.

Hardly ever a disaster if it's done properly, and it's the only method
that removes *all* the paint (from the mouldings as well).


If you must do it then I'd remove paint carefully
with a hot air gun which might just leave your original varnish intact
if you are lucky. If not then I'd repaint or re-varnish.
Bare wood was NEVER left as such "on display" except in cowsheds,
kitchens etc and the whole idea is fairly stupid, luckily now almost
out of fashion.

I take it you don't like the look of wood.

Don't like the look of stripped pine - tends to look like old
driftwood, stains, defects all visible, salt encrusted, often distorted
and split panels, joints coming apart, surface grain lifting, edges
fraying, and so on. Just needs barnacles and bird **** for the full
effect. And a few bits of tar.
Tons of otherwise excellent old joinery and furniture wrecked every
year by stripping/dipping.
Can sometimes be done wth care by hand for pieces which weren't
originally intended for painting/varnishing.

cheers
Jacob

All I was really saying was that any doors on tenements around here ( Glasgow)

have seperate mouldings pinned to the door around the panels .

Yes very common on nearly all internal doors. Called panel moulding.
Usually not done on external doors as doesn't weather well - either
machined on to panels, or sticking out "Bolection" profile used
instead.

cheers
Jacob

I take it you don't like the look of wood.

Don't like the look of stripped pine - tends to look like old
driftwood, stains, defects all visible, salt encrusted, often distorted
and split panels, joints coming apart, surface grain lifting, edges
fraying, and so on. Just needs barnacles and bird **** for the full
effect. And a few bits of tar.
Tons of otherwise excellent old joinery and furniture wrecked every
year by stripping/dipping.
Can sometimes be done wth care by hand for pieces which weren't
originally intended for painting/varnishing.

cheers
Jacob

it doesnt have to be done that badly

NT

NT & Jacob,

there is obviously strong views on both sides.

I did not set out to damage the doors. I used a company which have been
trading in this part of Scotland for some time. They are NOT pine and I
was not intending to leave them bare. The facings that I have stripped
by hand are lovely. There is nothing wrong with trying to restore the
original look of the woodwork which was not Dulux white.

Can anyone recommend a good stripping company in the NE of Scotland?

Andy

andy wrote:
NT & Jacob,

there is obviously strong views on both sides.

I did not set out to damage the doors. I used a company which have been
trading in this part of Scotland for some time. They are NOT pine and I
was not intending to leave them bare. The facings that I have stripped
by hand are lovely. There is nothing wrong with trying to restore the
original look of the woodwork which was not Dulux white.

Can anyone recommend a good stripping company in the NE of Scotland?

Andy

All I'm saying is that stripping by dipping is bad news, as you have
found out. It's too severe and cannot restore the original look. If
you've done bits by hand and that works then that is the way to go.
Or to put it another way; there's no such thing as a "good stripping
company".

best of luck with the rest of them

Jacob

The message . com
from "normanwisdom" contains these words:

Or to put it another way; there's no such thing as a "good stripping
company".

I remember the one at the top of Sevenoaks tipping caustic soda down the
gutter. Not popular, that wasn't.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

normanwisdom wrote:
andy wrote:
NT & Jacob,

there is obviously strong views on both sides.

I did not set out to damage the doors. I used a company which have been
trading in this part of Scotland for some time. They are NOT pine and I
was not intending to leave them bare. The facings that I have stripped
by hand are lovely. There is nothing wrong with trying to restore the
original look of the woodwork which was not Dulux white.

Can anyone recommend a good stripping company in the NE of Scotland?

Andy

All I'm saying is that stripping by dipping is bad news, as you have
found out. It's too severe and cannot restore the original look. If
you've done bits by hand and that works then that is the way to go.
Or to put it another way; there's no such thing as a "good stripping
company".

best of luck with the rest of them

Jacob


The severity is determined by the person doing the stripping. Some
finishes are best removed quickly at high temperature, others are left
soaking overnight in a tepid solution. Pitch pine and Douglas Fir
(common in Scotland) can present problems with grain raising but, for
the vast majority of woods, caustic dipping is perfectly reliable.
Hardwoods darken, but that is easily reversible. Any self respecting
stripper knows these things.

normanwisdom wrote:
Stripping by dipping is virtually always a disaster and should be
avoided at all costs.
Hardly ever a disaster if it's done properly, and it's the only method
that removes *all* the paint (from the mouldings as well).


If you must do it then I'd remove paint carefully
with a hot air gun which might just leave your original varnish intact
if you are lucky. If not then I'd repaint or re-varnish.
Bare wood was NEVER left as such "on display" except in cowsheds,
kitchens etc and the whole idea is fairly stupid, luckily now almost
out of fashion.
I take it you don't like the look of wood.

Don't like the look of stripped pine - tends to look like old
driftwood, stains, defects all visible, salt encrusted, often distorted
and split panels, joints coming apart, surface grain lifting, edges
fraying, and so on. Just needs barnacles and bird **** for the full
effect. And a few bits of tar.
Tons of otherwise excellent old joinery and furniture wrecked every
year by stripping/dipping.
Can sometimes be done wth care by hand for pieces which weren't
originally intended for painting/varnishing.

cheers
Jacob

Hear Hear!!!

Went to an auction last week. Ordinary "country" chairs in their
original condition varnished, or painted over, were fetching twice the
price of same thing stripped.
Stripping not only shortens life but also reduces value (not to mention
being really boring!).

cheers
Jacob