I will be installing an electric heater in a bathroom (actually a
heating element that fits into a water-heated towel rail), and I'd like
recommendations on what I can use for the wall connector. The heater
will be in zone 3, so obviously it's not going to be a 13A socket!

I could use a blank-front wall connector plate, but I don't think even
these are within regs. for a bathroom as they're not splash-proof. I
haven't come across anything that looks suitable.

Any ideas welcome.

TIA
Rick Jones

I could use a blank-front wall connector plate, but I don't think even
these are within regs. for a bathroom as they're not splash-proof. I
haven't come across anything that looks suitable.

Any ideas welcome.


Non IP rated fittings are permitted in zone 3 so that connector plate
is permitted.

http://www.diydata.com/electrics/bat..._electrics.htm

dcbwhaley wrote:


Non IP rated fittings are permitted in zone 3 so that connector plate
is permitted.

http://www.diydata.com/electrics/bat..._electrics.htm

Thanks for clearing that up, makes life easier!

Strangely, I'd already read that page, and managed to get the idea that
non-IP wasn't allowed at all (AOT standard sockets that aren't
allowed). Don't know how, as on 2nd reading it's clear as daylight - my
brain can't be screwed on today :-/

Cheers

On 22 Oct 2006 05:18:40 -0700 someone who may be "Rick Jones"
wrote this:-

I could use a blank-front wall connector plate, but I don't think even
these are within regs.

To add to what has already been said, an outlet with a neon
indicator is useful, to see whether the element is on or not. MK
make these, they also have a fuse in but that is no matter.


--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

Belated reply - thanks for the neon suggestion, I was thinking of using
one of those.

Followup question: since the rad heater is only 250w, is it acceptable
to wire the feed into the lighting circuit? It's obviously not a
problem in terms of the actual load, but are there rules that say a
wall outlet of that type must be on a higher power circuit?

I can see the thinking could be that someone in future might replace
the rad warmer with a more powerful heater, and assume that an outlet
of that type could take up to 13A.

From a practical point of view though, it's just going to be waaaay
easier to connect this particular location to the lighting than to a
ring, even as a spur.

TIA
Rick

David Hansen wrote:
On 22 Oct 2006 05:18:40 -0700 someone who may be "Rick Jones"

To add to what has already been said, an outlet with a neon
indicator is useful, to see whether the element is on or not. MK
make these, they also have a fuse in but that is no matter.

On 2 Nov 2006 05:44:31 -0800 someone who may be "Rick Jones"
wrote this:-

Followup question: since the rad heater is only 250w, is it acceptable
to wire the feed into the lighting circuit? It's obviously not a
problem in terms of the actual load, but are there rules that say a
wall outlet of that type must be on a higher power circuit?

Assuming the lighting circuit will not be overloaded, the only thing
one could use to argue against it is probably something general like
it not being good practice. Provided that the design and workmanship
is appropriate, correct cable sizes, control gear and so on, it
simply becomes a matter of debate.




--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

Thanks for your thoughts, that gives me more confidence to hook into
the lighting. I'll count the number of fittings on that circuit first
though

Cheers
Rick