Apart from the price, does any know what the difference is
between these two items...

http://tinyurl.com/y999s8

http://tinyurl.com/y8o2ys

Many thanks,
Roy

RzB wrote:
Apart from the price, does any know what the difference is
between these two items...

http://tinyurl.com/y999s8

http://tinyurl.com/y8o2ys


I've used the first one, and can't recommend this type of fixing. In
about half the cases, they ended up damaging the pasterboard as I
tightened the screw.

I've found this type to be far better:

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...36103&id=58219


--
Grunff

Grunff wrote:
RzB wrote:
Apart from the price, does any know what the difference is
between these two items...

http://tinyurl.com/y999s8

http://tinyurl.com/y8o2ys


I've used the first one, and can't recommend this type of fixing. In
about half the cases, they ended up damaging the pasterboard as I
tightened the screw.

I've found this type to be far better:

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...36103&id=58219

[AOL] Absolutely - me too! [/AOL]

David

On 2006-10-15 19:17:08 +0100, Grunff said:

RzB wrote:
Apart from the price, does any know what the difference is
between these two items...

http://tinyurl.com/y999s8

http://tinyurl.com/y8o2ys


I've used the first one, and can't recommend this type of fixing. In
about half the cases, they ended up damaging the pasterboard as I
tightened the screw.

I've found this type to be far better:

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...36103&id=58219

The metal ones are even better still...

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...37765&id=18266

Andy Hall wrote:

The metal ones are even better still...

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...37765&id=18266


Yes, I have those too, and they're very good. I tend to use the plastic
ones for light stuff (e.g. hanging a picture) and the metal ones for
heavier things (e.g. curtain poles).


--
Grunff

On Sun, 15 Oct 2006 18:52:36 +0100, RzB wrote:

Apart from the price, does any know what the difference is
between these two items...

Look at the images and text. One has single point and parallel thread
tips, the other 3 points and conical thread tips. Different manufacturer
with different, presumably trade, marked names.

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

Gents,
Many thanks for the responses..

This type has been recommended to me by the guy doing
my plastering...

I have had a wall (brick, breeze block, plastered, but a mess)
dry lined with dabs of some "glue stuff" and plaster board.
I will be hanging kitchen units on this wall.. The plasterer
has made sure there are generous dabs where the wall
cupboard fixings are to go.

I guess I might get away with normal fixings but just longer?

Roy

RzB wrote:
Gents,
Many thanks for the responses..

This type has been recommended to me by the guy doing
my plastering...

I have had a wall (brick, breeze block, plastered, but a mess)
dry lined with dabs of some "glue stuff" and plaster board.
I will be hanging kitchen units on this wall.. The plasterer
has made sure there are generous dabs where the wall
cupboard fixings are to go.

I guess I might get away with normal fixings but just longer?


I would certainly not want to use them to hang kitchen cupboards from.
They pull out of the plaster too easily.

If the plasterer made sure there is plasterboard adhesive where the
fixings will go, then it's easy - just use 4" long screws and normal plugs.

If you find areas without adhesive, my choice would be to cut back the
plasterboard around the area, and fill it with one-coat. Once that's
gone off, drill and fix.


--
Grunff

"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message

Look at the images and text. One has single point and parallel thread
tips, the other 3 points and conical thread tips. Different manufacturer
with different, presumably trade, marked names.


Hmm - not sure the different text gives a lot away..
and two extra points for a 50% hike in price... :-)

Roy

"Grunff" wrote
I would certainly not want to use them to hang kitchen cupboards from.
They pull out of the plaster too easily.

If the plasterer made sure there is plasterboard adhesive where the
fixings will go, then it's easy - just use 4" long screws and normal
plugs.

If you find areas without adhesive, my choice would be to cut back the
plasterboard around the area, and fill it with one-coat. Once that's gone
off, drill and fix.
--
Grunff

Hmmm - so what sort of plugs do I use with a 4" screw?

Many thanks for your help.

Roy

On 2006-10-15 20:35:38 +0100, "RzB" said:

"Grunff" wrote
I would certainly not want to use them to hang kitchen cupboards from.
They pull out of the plaster too easily.

If the plasterer made sure there is plasterboard adhesive where the
fixings will go, then it's easy - just use 4" long screws and normal
plugs.

If you find areas without adhesive, my choice would be to cut back the
plasterboard around the area, and fill it with one-coat. Once that's
gone off, drill and fix.
--
Grunff

Hmmm - so what sort of plugs do I use with a 4" screw?

Big ones :-)

Another solution is to use injection fixings.

You drill holes 2mm larger than the threaded stud, clean them and
inject the special resin. The studs are screwed in and the resin left
to cure for a few hours. For an item like a cupboard with fixed
centres a template should be made.

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...

Hmmm - so what sort of plugs do I use with a 4" screw?

Big ones :-)

Another solution is to use injection fixings.

You drill holes 2mm larger than the threaded stud, clean them and inject
the special resin. The studs are screwed in and the resin left to cure
for a few hours. For an item like a cupboard with fixed centres a
template should be made.


Hmm - yes I'm familair with that mechanism but it seems a bit overkill
for kitchen cabinets!!!

These are the brackets that fit to the wall...

www.gillandroy.com/diy/brkt

Perhaps I could get away with 3" screws and use these...

http://tinyurl.com/y37dau

Roy

RzB wrote:

Hmmm - so what sort of plugs do I use with a 4" screw?

The type used with frame fixings, like

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...86960&ts=42324
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...56427&ts=42324
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...17286&ts=42324

(the Fischer ones are excellent quality)


Many thanks for your help.

You're most welcome.


--
Grunff

"Grunff" wrote in message

(the Fischer ones are excellent quality)

Grunff

D'oh... I must be loosing it - I have just purchased some of them
to fit a door lining into Thermalite blocks...

They are 8x120.... As you can see...

www.gillandroy.com/diy/kitchen/brkt

the holes in the brackets will need opening up a bit unless
I can get some slightly smaller diameter versions...

I'll look around for these tomorrow...

Many thanks for your help.
Roy

On Sun, 15 Oct 2006 20:30:15 +0100, RzB wrote:

Hmm - not sure the different text gives a lot away..

The trade names. B-)

and two extra points for a 50% hike in price... :-)

I didn't look that closely. Anyway they are not suitable to hang kitchen
cupboards on. Take the already offered suggestions of a normal screw into
the real wall behind the plasterboard.

--
Cheers
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

On 2006-10-15 21:02:28 +0100, "RzB" said:

"Andy Hall" wrote in message ...

Hmmm - so what sort of plugs do I use with a 4" screw?

Big ones :-)

Another solution is to use injection fixings.

You drill holes 2mm larger than the threaded stud, clean them and
inject the special resin. The studs are screwed in and the resin left
to cure for a few hours. For an item like a cupboard with fixed
centres a template should be made.


Hmm - yes I'm familair with that mechanism but it seems a bit overkill
for kitchen cabinets!!!

Depends. Are the walls brick or Thermalite blocks?

I tried using some frame fixings to make attachments into some for a
cupboard and was not comfortable with the strength of the result.

This was with fixings similar to one of the ones that Grunff listed

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...17286&ts=42324

These don't have a lot of expanding plastic at the tip.

The Fischer ones do and would be fine, I suspect

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...86960&ts=42324

Remember that frame fixings are normally for going sideways into
masonry and the item being fixed is normally fitted into an opening
and can't be pulled directly outwards. Really all that this type of
fixing has to do is to be able to stand some sideways force on
occasions.

Admitedly a fixing for a cupboard has to mainly stand sideways forces
also, but there is the possibility of pulling out and I feel more
comfortable with something more substantial.




These are the brackets that fit to the wall...

www.gillandroy.com/diy/brkt

Perhaps I could get away with 3" screws and use these...

http://tinyurl.com/y37dau

Roy

RzB wrote:
Gents,
Many thanks for the responses..

This type has been recommended to me by the guy doing
my plastering...

I have had a wall (brick, breeze block, plastered, but a mess)
dry lined with dabs of some "glue stuff" and plaster board.
I will be hanging kitchen units on this wall.. The plasterer
has made sure there are generous dabs where the wall
cupboard fixings are to go.

I guess I might get away with normal fixings but just longer?

Roy




Kitchen upper cupboards need to be attached to the breezeblock (assuming
that's the inside leaf of the cavity :-) through any plaster.

For my own design of kitchen cabinet I use a long cleat of 300x18 WBP
plywood ripped at 45 degrees with one half attached to the wall with
frame fixings, e.g.:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...05689&id=51989
and the other screwed and glued to the cabinet so that the 45 deg.
section acts a hook. The wall cleat is levelled round the room with a
laser-level. Then I put more frame fixings through the cabinet to the wall.

You can climb up my cabinets, or use them for calisthenics! Think about
how much a full earthenware dinner service weighs.

R.

Many thanks to all for the very good advice...

BTW - I emailed Screwfix to find out the differences... here is
the answer..

"Quote 11595 ( Metal Easi-Driver ) is supplied to us by a Swiss
company called 'MUNGO' and Quote 11923 ( Metal Redi-Driva )
is supplied by a French company called ITW Spit."

So there you have it - French 50% more expensive!

Roy

On 2006-10-16 22:04:12 +0100, "RzB" said:

Many thanks to all for the very good advice...

BTW - I emailed Screwfix to find out the differences... here is
the answer..

"Quote 11595 ( Metal Easi-Driver ) is supplied to us by a Swiss
company called 'MUNGO' and Quote 11923 ( Metal Redi-Driva )
is supplied by a French company called ITW Spit."

So there you have it - French 50% more expensive!

Roy

That's really surprising. Normally the boot is on the other foot.